[TrackClub]

Originally Posted by Jamesg89

I would never give out any of my customer contracts or any customer information period to anyone outside of my company. I very highly doubt Elite would either, as that is just bad business. Just because you don't want a catch can, does not justify the need for them to send you anything from their customers.

I am not looking for contracts, or any private info.
Just a name I can call as a reference. That's normal biz practice unless your biz is espionage

[TrackClub]

Originally Posted by 1LEMATT

Jesus man, we are all well aware of the fact you don't want a catch can...and that is your choice, but you are becoming like a broken record in this thread. Just move on!

I never said I don't want a can. I just don't want my warranty voided. And I will stop just as soon as sucking and blowing at the same time stops. Lest I will continue to keep it real as our community deserves better. If you don't find my factual comments as value - feel free to stop reading my posts. Cheers!

[1LEMATT]

Originally Posted by TrackClub

I never said I don't want a can. I just don't want my warranty voided. And I will stop just as soon as sucking and blowing at the same time stops. Lest I will continue to keep it real as our community deserves better. If you don't find my factual comments as value - feel free to stop reading my posts. Cheers!

You keep talking in circles and don't even realize it.

[SS2017]

Originally Posted by 1LEMATT

...but you are becoming like a broken record in this thread. Just move on!

This x100000000000000!

[PinHead]

Originally Posted by Elite Engineering

Lots of great questions, and we'll do our best to answer them.


First, the car is a C7 Corvette. The dyno and valve cleaning was done on the same day with SAE correction (we did not do the dyno or the cleaning, the customer performed all). Dyno was a Dynocom AWD eddy current loaded unit and yes, dyno's are only a tool. I have yet to see any 2 dyno's give the same results. The car owner is a Aerospace Engineer and very knowledgeable. He accepted a open invitation to participate in the testing along with owners of several makes and models of new/newer GDI engines. These included a BMW Mini, and Ford Focus ST, and several others. All had to have as close to 20k miles as possible to establish baselines and then manual cleanings the same day and back on the same dyno. NOTHING else was done to the cars but a manual intake valve cleaning. Each owner participated in every step and only guidance and supplies for the cleaning were provided, so they personally participated in the cleaning. Immediately after the base runs were performed, the intake manifold was removed and the crushed walnut shell media blasting was performed. (for details, go to camaro5.com and search "V6 intake valve cleaning" and make sure the threads are the recent ones where each step is documented to see how anyone can do these)


Then, the intake manifolds were reinstalled and back on the dyno.


Before and after pictures were also taken as well as every step of the cleaning.


Why the dip in torque we have no idea. Most likely some KR pulled timing at that RPM range as that is where the engine is "loaded" and most susceptible to KR, put that is an assumption only.


Can a catchcan stop all coking? No. Ours will prevent up to 85% but all GDI engines no longer have the old EGR valve, so this function is emulated by variable valve timing events. The intake valve is opened momentarily to allow some exhaust gasses to back fill into the back side of the intake valves to be re-burnt in the next combustive event, and that will always result in some coking. Also, every engine will ingest a small amount of oil past valve seals as this is what lubricates the valve guides and stems and eventually a small amount of oil will enter via this path.


On oil filtration. All oil filters give rates of filtration, but the bottom line is up to 70% of all internal engine wear occurs from abrasive particulate matter in the 2-10 micron size and little of this is every trapped. An oil filter than would trap down to that size would be far too restrictive to allow proper flow rates, so no, there is no oil filter that can prevent this wear so preventing the accumulation of these particles is the best way to reduce wear. A premium filter such as Amsoil and other premium brands do a far better job than a low priced production filter. Want more proof? After just a 1000 miles, look at the dark color of the new oil, that is the result of the increased ash/soot/carbon particulate matter you will see with all GDI engines. Think about the DI engine. Fuel is no longer introduced at 45-55 PSI, it is 2,000-3,000 PSI and combine this with the 11.5:1 standard compression ratio of these engines and cylinder pressures are far greater than the port injection engines of the past. This results in far more raw fuel and other wear causing compounds entering the crankcase past the piston rings. This is one of the main reasons GM and others have dropped engine warranties nearly in 1/2. The trend in the past as port injection engines lasted longer and longer engine warranties increased to an industry standard of 100k miles, and now 60, and as low as 36k miles are being seen.


The effectiveness of our internal design can be easily tested by anyone as well. Simply install our can after ANY other cans outlet starting with both totally clean and oil free. Drive 1,000-2,000 plus miles and then drain each can (open them to make sure all contents are measured). Then document and clean both cans again, and reverse the order with our E2 or E2-X first, and the other can second. Drive the exact same miles as the first portion of the test, and duplicate the style of driving as well to be as fair as possible and drain and document. We will trap as much or more than any of these other can designs, no matter who's brand they are, and when done in reverse almost nothing gets past ours. And it does so by NOT restricting or reducing the flow rate so the factory CFM is retained.


I may have missed a question or point, and if so, just ask. This is a great thread going here and we have tons of data to share.

We have worked with some of the most respected labs and knowledgeable automotive engineering firms to be able to understand every aspect of today's GDI engines, and as anyone in business knows, it takes a huge investment in time and money to share this information with all. Our goal is education, and we provide help and assistance with all no matter if you buy our solutions or anyone else. That is a commitment we have not seen by anyone else.





Elite Engineering USA

Elite,

First off, thanks for posting.

Were there any used oil analysis done, (i.e. Blackstone Labs) before and after the installation of your Catch Can?

Carbon production/oil contamination percentages can vary and can be the result of hundreds of factors, (i.e. driving habits, fuel quality, poor oil quality, service intervals, faulty sensors or tune etc)

The used oil analysis data will be very OBJECTIVE and telling as to the efficacy and claims of your can's ability in removing oil contaminates, (and types and percentages of such contaminants).

Up until now I haven't seen excessive oil contamination in a properly performing LT1/LT4. But I'm not always right.

Please; Show me the data.

[Soleil]

I just installed my CC from Elite Engineering E2 a couple of days ago. It took a while until I understood everything but now I am happy

[MAGAUSA]

Originally Posted by Soleil

I just installed my CC from Elite Engineering E2 a couple of days ago. It took a while until I understood everything but now I am happy

You should put some heat protectant on that coolant line. The can will get very hot and it can compromise that hose. I wrapped some heat shield material around it and used 2 zip ties to keep it in place.

[Soleil]

Yes, I have seen yours and find it a very good idea and thank you for your advice.

[PinHead]

In pursuit of real DATA related to Catch Can performance I've found that debris oil is only collected by the C-Can under WOT engine conditions that only last short periods of time.

Here's a video of a 2009 CTS V LSA SC V8, although slightly different, the PVC system in a SC is the same or very similar.
https://youtu.be/_iqiJYxl1cg

You'll see that after approximate 6 HARD Runs, to Max shift points and WOT, only about 1 cc of debris oil is accumulated.

This is one of the many reasons GM specifies a viscosity change before and after track days. A well maintain engine with QUALITY OIL will not excessively accumulate debris oil to cause engine wear issues. Oil changes are cheap insurance with ANY engine. Excessive Carbon will not usually occur in a properly tuned and performing engine.

I'm not bashing the aftermarket parts guys or quality of their items, and am only posting OBJECTIVE findings. I welcome any/all objective rebuttals.

Flame protection initiated.

[devnull]

Originally Posted by PinHead

Flame protection initiated.

No flame at all. You make good, articulate points that are very likely true. That being said I still use a can because I like the smell of the oil that comes out (and I have pulled the intake on my C7 and didn't like the look of the intake valves).

[mtlforlife]

I picked up a Mishimoto catch can I'm planning to install when I perform my Maggie and other goodies install. Wondering if I should change to one of the Elite Engineering units?

[Elite Engineering]

That video demonstrates the huge disparity in how most cans work and are designed. Look close in that video and see it also has oil being pulled up and out the outlet.


Watch from the 20 minute mark on here to see just how ineffective most cans are in comparison to our internal design.


That is why we provide evacuation suction full time so evacuation is taking place at all times VS only a short period with most cans. It is common to confuse "catachcans" by lumping them into the same pile. Ours are true air/oil separating crankcase evacuation systems. Our dual valve systems provide just that, full time evacuation and the most effective separation on the market period.

[TrackClub]

It would be really nice if a vendor, or GM provided some comments relative to the separator in our cars to answer the OP and other folks that have asked the same question in this thead. After all, this is one of the differences between a Vette LT1 and a Camaro LT1 and I know for a fact the Camaro engineering team was quite proud of this solution.

PS NOT discounting any vendor's solutions here BTW so pls don't confuse the two subjects.

[17LGX]

^^^^^Agree!