[cdb95z28]

Originally Posted by S.Macias

Nope, probably could have saved myself a couple hundred dollars if I just modified the knuckle bolt beforehand, but I wanted to make sure I could get to -3 fronts without further issue. Figured it all ended up being hundreds of dollars cheaper than camber plates, so it’s a win in my book. But I believe just extending the bolt hole will let you hit -3 according to other forum post

https://www.camaro6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=526353

Yep, -3* is possible with just the strut mod. I can get -3.2* on one side and -3* on the other. Just needed to grind a tiny bit more on the latter to get match the other but I've been set on -3* anyway. I also have purchased the PP knuckles. If it helps with the wheel/tire assembly clearance then I won't have to run as thick of a spacer. I might bump up the camber too since it looks like I'm going to start running Pirelli DH slicks.

Great thread fellas! Thanks for the info

[bishopts]

Originally Posted by S.Macias

Nope, probably could have saved myself a couple hundred dollars if I just modified the knuckle bolt beforehand, but I wanted to make sure I could get to -3 fronts without further issue. Figured it all ended up being hundreds of dollars cheaper than camber plates, so it’s a win in my book. But I believe just extending the bolt hole will let you hit -3 according to other forum post

https://www.camaro6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=526353

Do you think it would be better to slot the strut and replace that bolt with a bolt with an adjustment cam in it?

[S.Macias]

Originally Posted by bishopts

Do you think it would be better to slot the strut and replace that bolt with a bolt with an adjustment cam in it?

No idea. I know the adjustment cam bolt makes it easier to adjust but seems to me like it would be beneficial to someone doing their own home alignment.

[S.Macias]

I don’t have the before printed, but the shop showed me where the fronts were on the tablet and driver was at -3.65 and passenger was at -3.9. I asked for -3 fronts which they did, but I have the capability for more if needed. The rear was set to -2. Going back to the shop tomorrow to try the front toe at zero instead of .1

[FollowMyLine]

Originally Posted by S.Macias

I don’t have the before printed, but the shop showed me where the fronts were on the tablet and driver was at -3.65 and passenger was at -3.9. I asked for -3 fronts which they did, but I have the capability for more if needed. The rear was set to -2. Going back to the shop tomorrow to try the front toe at zero instead of .1

One of the reasons I didn't want to elongate the bolt channel on the strut was due to the inconsistency you can get. Either way, -3.65 is absolutely wild. -3.9 is mind blowing haha. Nice job!

[cdb95z28]

Originally Posted by bishopts

Do you think it would be better to slot the strut and replace that bolt with a bolt with an adjustment cam in it?

Originally Posted by S.Macias

No idea. I know the adjustment cam bolt makes it easier to adjust but seems to me like it would be beneficial to someone doing their own home alignment.

Not a good idea to use those aftermarket camber bolts due to the high loading of these components. Stick with the OE splined bolt and tighten to spec. Slotting the strut has been done for many years, even with the Gen5.

Originally Posted by S.Macias

I don’t have the before printed, but the shop showed me where the fronts were on the tablet and driver was at -3.65 and passenger was at -3.9. I asked for -3 fronts which they did, but I have the capability for more if needed. The rear was set to -2. Going back to the shop tomorrow to try the front toe at zero instead of .1

This thread shows the proper bolt to fine tune the front camber. You can dial it in precisely.

https://www.camaro6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=609290