[RUQWIKR]

Originally Posted by GunMetalGrey

Any reason to think they are not as good as the Racing Brake option which is definitely more expensive?

Also how does one check and determine when the right time to rebuild their caliper is other than when it’s already too late and It’s leaking fluid? In other words to be preventative instead of reactive?

The GM ones are about half the price. I know first hand they made a difference as my caliper sticker temps went down 70-90F. As far as a rebuild, if you have melted your dust boots, it's time to look at the pistons for any scouring. Calipers are easy to rebuild your self.

[GunMetalGrey]

Originally Posted by RUQWIKR

The GM ones are about half the price. I know first hand they made a difference as my caliper sticker temps went down 70-90F. As far as a rebuild, if you have melted your dust boots, it's time to look at the pistons for any scouring. Calipers are easy to rebuild your self.

Thanks, that’s valuable information regarding both the temperature decrease and what to check regarding a calliper rebuild!

[olblue75]

I’d say if your a hardcore track guy an you’re hard on pads an rotors a rebuild once a year would be in order, but you wouldn’t have to replace the pistons each time. Also might wanna look at caliper assembly lube it’s different than brake fluid and you lube the internal seals with them. I freeze my pistons before installs to help with installation.

[TrackClub]

Id agree: with high torque pads (given the heat) once a year. As far as symptoms, apart from melted seals, a brake sticking would be another. Meaning piston(s) are getting stuck and dont release properly. That's easy to spot on loud pads. You'll be driving along without applying brakes, yet you will hear them squeal.
Heat is number 1 cause of piston scoring (vs scouring?) and pitting. Also, any grime that gets forced there.
Note that pads that run hot will off gas more and hence contribute more.

As far as DIY being easy...well, it all depends and clearly is on another level from popping brake pads. While it may be easy for some, it wont be easy for all.
I would not recommend somebody does it, if one is not used to regularly wrenching, having the tools, etc.
While some folks are mechanically inclined, have a nice work bench in a garage, etc - some are all thumbs (like me!). So, for an average person, I'd recommend taking it to your trusted mechanic and watch the process first, to see if you are up to it.

Remember, this is brakes we are talking about. Screwing something up is NOT an option. Cheers!

[weemus]

Going back to the SS deflectors they do hang low but its a $15 dollar part and plastic, so as someone said in another thread it will self clearance. I have rubbed them on some track curbing when going over the curb (very limited areas such as Road Atlanta at the exit of the uphill esses). I use them daily and have only rubbed a couple of times on the road.

Here is the difference.Running with my friend at RA
Stock

SS Deflectors

[h018871]

Surprised I missed this post.

Great info here, thx to the knowledgeable participants!

[GunMetalGrey]

Originally Posted by olblue75

I’d say if your a hardcore track guy an you’re hard on pads an rotors a rebuild once a year would be in order, but you wouldn’t have to replace the pistons each time. Also might wanna look at caliper assembly lube it’s different than brake fluid and you lube the internal seals with them. I freeze my pistons before installs to help with installation.

Excellent, I was wondering how often, thanks

How long does it take you to rebuild the fronts?
I assume you don’t have to replace or rebuild the tears as often?

[GunMetalGrey]

Originally Posted by RUQWIKR

The J57 CCB vented pistons are cheap at about $115 per front caliper off Amazon if someone wants to stick them in ZL1 front calipers. Comes with the pressure seals, but, you can reuse the ones in your calipers if good. PN 23242510. Even cheaper if you have a Delco wholesale hookup like some do.

Ordered from Amazon!
Any idea if these are stainless steel like the ones that are twice the price from Racing Brake? Just curious

[RUQWIKR]

Originally Posted by GunMetalGrey

Ordered from Amazon!
Any idea if these are stainless steel like the ones that are twice the price from Racing Brake? Just curious

I think the PN is actually 19207043. Buddy (Geoff) pointed it out to me. The pic they have for the other PN is for the vented ones, too. I will try to go correct my post. Sorry about that. Should not be an issue with returns at least for Amazon.

Updated: dug through my stash: opened the box to confirm: pic is right side up on my phone, but you can see the vented pistons and pressure seals in the sealed container.

[GunMetalGrey]

Originally Posted by RUQWIKR

I think the PN is actually 19207043. Buddy (Geoff) pointed it out to me. The pic they have for the other PN is for the vented ones, too. I will try to go correct my post. Sorry about that. Should not be an issue with returns at least for Amazon.

Updated: dug through my stash: opened the box to confirm: pic is right side up on my phone, but you can see the vented pistons and pressure seals in the sealed container.

Haha ok thanks for letting me know so quickly, no worries

[RUQWIKR]

Originally Posted by GunMetalGrey

Haha ok thanks for letting me know so quickly, no worries

Silly me for trusting a Google search that sent me to an Amazon link with the correct pic but wrong info!

[weemus]

So #19207043 will work in the SS 1LE calipers?

[TrackClub]

Originally Posted by GunMetalGrey

Haha ok thanks for letting me know so quickly, no worries

GMG did ya see my post #102?

Rears only take 30% (approx) of the load, so should last much longer, but worth at least checking anyway as part of the annual maint given the pads.

[olblue75]

You should be able to break them down in about 15-20 minutes each, the way I do mine is remove the cross over tube let them drain over night and then stick a piece of wood between the pistons and use compressed air to blow the pistons outta each side an don’t put your fingers in there it hurts. An if the pistons don’t come completely out use a pair channel locks and just rotate them back an fourth till they come out. Remove inner seals, clean everything real good, freeze pistons overnight, lube and install new inner seals, put dust boots on pistons and slide them into the caliper, an then press dust boots into groove. If your calipers are looking pretty raggedy this is a time to have them either repainted or coated to either match/contrast the car (disassembled of course). When I’ve rebuilt mine I bought new bleeders and bleeder caps as well. When I redo them next time I think I’ll get the Wilwood bleeder kit https://www.wilwood.com/LineKits/Lin...temno=220-0627. Less stress on your calipers.