[Evil-Bee-NH]

Originally Posted by cooper1965

^You would think that would be common sense.

Haha your funny.

[DatsunBob]

Do you know what triggers the stuck bypass cell? Like how does the sensor trigger? Is it flow, amperage, position, index? Does it leak by design to lessen the force required to close the bypass under boost?

[cooper1965]

Originally Posted by Evil-Bee-NH

Haha your funny.

That wasn't directed at you if that's what you were thinking. I don't want no trouble, hahah!!

Originally Posted by DatsunBob

Do you know what triggers the stuck bypass cell? Like how does the sensor trigger? Is it flow, amperage, position, index? Does it leak by design to lessen the force required to close the bypass under boost?

The DTC is triggered by the ECM after it detects a series of pulsations that exceed the pre calibrated threshold parameters.

I don't know all of the parameters, but things like altitude, boost pressure vs baro pressure, PWM valve command%, engine speed vs those% are among them.

[Jason@JacFab]

I don't necessarily think the P2261 means "STUCK", it could be anything "mechanical" that could go wrong with the sensor. Stuck for example, but also if the seal were to wear out and cause it to leak even more than usual, I'm pretty sure that would also through the same code. Anything that causes boost to be higher, or lower than expected would throw the mechanical code.

Aside from the P2261 turbo bypass mechanical code, there is also a set of electrical trouble codes related to the valve, Circuit high, Circuit low, and Circuit open. I am not getting any of those because there's no problem electrically. But at any point if the stock valve was to take a crap, you might get any combination of P2261, P0033, P0034, P0035.

Pin pointing exactly why the code comes on, is difficult, as there is no easy to read "maps" of what the stock tune should be doing at what exact point. The code never (or has yet, anyway) come on at a time of when the re-circulation valve would actually be opening or closing, ie: Letting off pedal quickly after a WOT run.

Really hoping to put the latest prototype revision on my car this weekend if we're lucky. I think we've got everything here to do it, I've just got to find a few fittings, etc.

[Jason@JacFab]

Got the latest prototype revision onto the car, and business as usual. Everything seems to be operating well, and so far, no check engine light with the new valve. I'll keep driving it for the next week and see if anything pops up. One of the big changes we made was that the piston can now open much farther to recirculate more air faster... Good possibility that this might have been the needed change to keep the check engine light off.

Actually did some logging today with both the JF unit, and the stock. I have a 30 minute drive into town from the house, so the car was hot for both test logs to hopefully ensure consistency. I drove the same road for both tests, the same way. I did a couple 0-60 runs, and one 0-100 run from a dead stop with no break boosting, just mash the gas from an idle, with both parts. Ambient temp with within 5-6 degrees of each test.

With the JF valve, cyl airmass is up, boost builds quicker, and seemingly holding longer in the higher gears. While the 0-60 times were kind of inconclusive due to inconsistent traction, the best 0-60 time compared between the JF valve, and the stock valve, the JF valve was .302 quicker, JF valve best being 5.101, and stock being 5.403. What theoretically could be considered conclusive is as the 0-100 runs were done from an idle, and mash the gas, no traction problems at all as I wasn't brake boosting, The JF valve 0-100 was .397 quicker than the stock valve, Jf being 14.576, stock being 14.973.

We are getting real close guys to buttoning this up. Just need to make a couple tweaks for better fitment, as when we were testing on the bench we didn't really have to be concerned with clearance. It's all on there, but its a little tight and awkward. The other big thing we need to do is source a connector to connect into the stock recirculation valve harness connector as we need to make a extension harness for an additional part. right now I have just wire tapped into the wires behind the plug to get power for the additional part, as it needs to activate at the same time the stock recirculation valve activates, but I don't really want to sell it expecting people to use wire taps. A nice plug and play extension harness would be nice.

[6th_gen_gino]

Originally Posted by Jason@JacFab

Got the latest prototype revision onto the car, and business as usual. Everything seems to be operating well, and so far, no check engine light with the new valve. I'll keep driving it for the next week and see if anything pops up. One of the big changes we made was that the piston can now open much farther to recirculate more air faster... Good possibility that this might have been the needed change to keep the check engine light off.

Actually did some logging today with both the JF unit, and the stock. I have a 30 minute drive into town from the house, so the car was hot for both test logs to hopefully ensure consistency. I drove the same road for both tests, the same way. I did a couple 0-60 runs, and one 0-100 run from a dead stop with no break boosting, just mash the gas from an idle, with both parts. Ambient temp with within 5-6 degrees of each test.

With the JF valve, cyl airmass is up, boost builds quicker, and seemingly holding longer in the higher gears. While the 0-60 times were kind of inconclusive due to inconsistent traction, the best 0-60 time compared between the JF valve, and the stock valve, the JF valve was .302 quicker, JF valve best being 5.101, and stock being 5.403. What theoretically could be considered conclusive is as the 0-100 runs were done from an idle, and mash the gas, no traction problems at all as I wasn't brake boosting, The JF valve 0-100 was .397 quicker than the stock valve, Jf being 14.576, stock being 14.973.

We are getting real close guys to buttoning this up. Just need to make a couple tweaks for better fitment, as when we were testing on the bench we didn't really have to be concerned with clearance. It's all on there, but its a little tight and awkward. The other big thing we need to do is source a connector to connect into the stock recirculation valve harness connector as we need to make a extension harness for an additional part. right now I have just wire tapped into the wires behind the plug to get power for the additional part, as it needs to activate at the same time the stock recirculation valve activates, but I don't really want to sell it expecting people to use wire taps. A nice plug and play extension harness would be nice.

Sounds very promising, can't wait to see this out on the market already

[cooper1965]

Originally Posted by Jason@JacFab

Got the latest prototype revision onto the car, and business as usual. Everything seems to be operating well, and so far, no check engine light with the new valve. I'll keep driving it for the next week and see if anything pops up. One of the big changes we made was that the piston can now open much farther to recirculate more air faster... Good possibility that this might have been the needed change to keep the check engine light off.

Actually did some logging today with both the JF unit, and the stock. I have a 30 minute drive into town from the house, so the car was hot for both test logs to hopefully ensure consistency. I drove the same road for both tests, the same way. I did a couple 0-60 runs, and one 0-100 run from a dead stop with no break boosting, just mash the gas from an idle, with both parts. Ambient temp with within 5-6 degrees of each test.

With the JF valve, cyl airmass is up, boost builds quicker, and seemingly holding longer in the higher gears. While the 0-60 times were kind of inconclusive due to inconsistent traction, the best 0-60 time compared between the JF valve, and the stock valve, the JF valve was .302 quicker, JF valve best being 5.101, and stock being 5.403. What theoretically could be considered conclusive is as the 0-100 runs were done from an idle, and mash the gas, no traction problems at all as I wasn't brake boosting, The JF valve 0-100 was .397 quicker than the stock valve, Jf being 14.576, stock being 14.973.

We are getting real close guys to buttoning this up. Just need to make a couple tweaks for better fitment, as when we were testing on the bench we didn't really have to be concerned with clearance. It's all on there, but its a little tight and awkward. The other big thing we need to do is source a connector to connect into the stock recirculation valve harness connector as we need to make a extension harness for an additional part. right now I have just wire tapped into the wires behind the plug to get power for the additional part, as it needs to activate at the same time the stock recirculation valve activates, but I don't really want to sell it expecting people to use wire taps. A nice plug and play extension harness would be nice.

Dang, a half second is pretty HUGE!!

I haven't really looked at it, but what's involved for a guy to swap these out?

[Evil-Bee-NH]

Remove air intake tube unscrew and disconnect shitty plastic valve and screw and connect the new JF one put air intake tube back on. I think that'd be it in a nutshell.

[cooper1965]

Originally Posted by Evil-Bee-NH

Remove air intake tube unscrew and disconnect shitty plastic valve and screw and connect the new JF one put air intake tube back on. I think that'd be it in a nutshell.

Sweet! Should be simple enough for anyone to do then. If the light stays off, it would be super nice!!

[Jason@JacFab]

You actually need to reuse part of the stock recirculation valve, basic hand tools, shouldn’t take longer than 30 minutes to install.

As I already had one valve partially disassembled and installed on the JacFab lower portion, i could do the swap in about 10-15 minutes today.


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[Start The Machine]

Take my money already.

[Trice624]

Originally Posted by Start The Machine

Take my money already.

That's what I'm screaming.

[ryansalazan24]

Originally Posted by Jason@JacFab

Got the latest prototype revision onto the car, and business as usual. Everything seems to be operating well, and so far, no check engine light with the new valve. I'll keep driving it for the next week and see if anything pops up. One of the big changes we made was that the piston can now open much farther to recirculate more air faster... Good possibility that this might have been the needed change to keep the check engine light off.

Actually did some logging today with both the JF unit, and the stock. I have a 30 minute drive into town from the house, so the car was hot for both test logs to hopefully ensure consistency. I drove the same road for both tests, the same way. I did a couple 0-60 runs, and one 0-100 run from a dead stop with no break boosting, just mash the gas from an idle, with both parts. Ambient temp with within 5-6 degrees of each test.

With the JF valve, cyl airmass is up, boost builds quicker, and seemingly holding longer in the higher gears. While the 0-60 times were kind of inconclusive due to inconsistent traction, the best 0-60 time compared between the JF valve, and the stock valve, the JF valve was .302 quicker, JF valve best being 5.101, and stock being 5.403. What theoretically could be considered conclusive is as the 0-100 runs were done from an idle, and mash the gas, no traction problems at all as I wasn't brake boosting, The JF valve 0-100 was .397 quicker than the stock valve, Jf being 14.576, stock being 14.973.

We are getting real close guys to buttoning this up. Just need to make a couple tweaks for better fitment, as when we were testing on the bench we didn't really have to be concerned with clearance. It's all on there, but its a little tight and awkward. The other big thing we need to do is source a connector to connect into the stock recirculation valve harness connector as we need to make a extension harness for an additional part. right now I have just wire tapped into the wires behind the plug to get power for the additional part, as it needs to activate at the same time the stock recirculation valve activates, but I don't really want to sell it expecting people to use wire taps. A nice plug and play extension harness would be nice.

Agreed. 3/10ths of a second gain loss in acceleration from just a bypass valve is really good stuff! I cant wait to see the outcome. Please let us know as soon as its for sale as I will be picking one up as well! Hopefully right about when the turbo comes in.

[Jason@JacFab]

Just a quick update...

Day 5, almost 300 miles of driving, no check engine light yet.

I asked cooper1965 if he might be able to help out sourcing the connectors for the jumper harness as he works at a dealer and might be able to see stuff that I can't... We've gone back and forth with each other for about 4 days now, and what seemed like a mess due to some GM screw ups at first, after hours of searching, contacting, searching, etc. I'm pretty sure I have all the correct connectors to make a jumper harness on the way to me now. Thank you cooper1965 for all of your help, I couldn't have done it without you!

All in all, I've got about 4-6 orders of random connectors that should be showing up within the next few days, one of them is bound to work, and should hopefully assuming I get everything I ordered, and everything fits, should have a nice jump harness to add to the mix early-mid next week.