[AndyZ87]

Is there a simpler way to do this without ripping everything apart? Thanks in advance.

[AndyZ87]

Anybody?

[Stephen12ZL1]

Originally Posted by AndyZ87

Anybody?

no there isn't but the job isn't that difficult either. Remove the 36mm nut, toe arm, 2 top suspension arms, and sway bar link. The bearing assembly with the studs is attached by three bolts. You can likely bang out the studs with a hammer at this point. Reinstall studs with a lisle stud install tool and an impact.

[RUQWIKR]

Originally Posted by Stephen12ZL1

no there isn't but the job isn't that difficult either. Remove the 36mm nut, toe arm, 2 top suspension arms, and sway bar link. The bearing assembly with the studs is attached by three bolts. You can likely bang out the studs with a hammer at this point. Reinstall studs with a lisle stud install tool and an impact.

You can get the wheel bearing out without removing the toe / link bolts. Not saying it's easier than undoing the arms and moving the knuckle down, it real tight getting to one of the three bearing hub bolts with the half-shaft in the way.

[Stephen12ZL1]

Originally Posted by RUQWIKR

You can get the wheel bearing out without removing the toe / link bolts. Not saying it's easier than undoing the arms and moving the knuckle down, it real tight getting to one of the three bearing hub bolts with the half-shaft in the way.

if you can do that then you are amazing...the bolts are almost completely shrouded by the axle shaft and the approach angle is not direct. It looks like a recipe for a rounded bolt if this isn't fully disassembled. I tried but it ends up being more efficient for direct access to fully disassemble.

[RUQWIKR]

Originally Posted by Stephen12ZL1

if you can do that then you are amazing...the bolts are almost completely shrouded by the axle shaft and the approach angle is not direct. It looks like a recipe for a rounded bolt if this isn't fully disassembled. I tried but it ends up being more efficient for direct access to fully disassemble.

Been there, done that. Next time on my car or friends cars I wrench on, I'll do it the other way.

[davidwarren]

Anyone know the torque specs for the hub bolts and the axle nut?

[h018871]

Hub bolts: 96 lb-ft w/ locktite
Axle nut: single use and the washer (11611965) should be replaced.
AllData says 185 lb-ft, folks on here say 199 lb-ft, w/ locktite

[davidwarren]

I replaced one side last weekend. I had broken a lug the weekend prior. It really was not too bad. I pulled the toe arm (I have an SPL), top two control arms, and used a three arm puller to push the axle back enough to get a wobble socket on my stubby mid torque milwaukee to remove the hub. replaced the studs with ARPs and reassembled. I did it over two days just because I was busy. Now I can likely do the other side on the rear in an easy two hours.

Waiting on new hardware was longest part of the endeavor.

[patricks63]

Where did you order the Axle nut and washer from?

[h018871]

Originally Posted by patricks63

Where did you order the Axle nut and washer from?

local dealership or you can get from a GM parts seller online
11612295 outer axle nut
11611965 washer

[Pcormier66]

Do you need a rear end alignment after replacing rear studs?

[Texan4iu]

Originally Posted by Pcormier66

Do you need a rear end alignment after replacing rear studs?

If you removed any of the suspension parts, I most certainly would get an alignment, especially if you are going to track it after.

I just replaced my rear studs this past weekend without removing any of the suspension bolts. If I can do it, anyone can (as I am not a master mechanic). Did it on jack stands in my garage. As mentioned previously on here, sliding the axel out just a bit gives you enough room to get a socket onto the hub bolts. I was afraid getting the bolts back in would be really challenging since it's difficult seeing the holes from under the car, but if you put the bolts in prior to reinstalling the hub, you can see the holes from the outside and get them lined up that way. Definitely not the most fun thing I've ever done, but doable. Just take your time.

Also, breaking the axel nut loose required some convincing. Lol. Ended up using some WD40 Penetrate and a cheater bar (jack bar over breaker bar) to finally get it to loosen up.