[RideWithDanger]

Hey guys, I have not yet taken delivery of my Camaro but I run a small car audio business on the side so its kind of my thing. And my current box will not fit in the trunk of the camaro so I am starting over. I just had a few questions.

I have been looking through several posts on here and am getting mixed up with different answers so I figured id make my own post and clarify some things. First of all, I will be designing and building my own box, most likely front firing. Probably a single 12, ported. Also I plan on just powering the sub and leaving the bose amp to continue powering all speakers, at least for now.

My question is, how are you guys powering your amps? I see some people that run Line out Converters and tap into (im not sure exactly which) speakers. And other people that say you can just use the sub-out on the existing amp thats in the trunk. I will have the BOSE system.

I saw some people saying to completely take the rear shelf speakers out, or replace them and wire them with the door speakers or something like that, so thats an option. Just wanted to get everything I need together before the car gets here, and wasnt sure which route to follow.

EDIT* long story short, what's a cheap and easy way to power an amplifier for a sub?

[weatherman71]

personally.... i would do a rear firing box..... Also why ported? Todays music sounds soooo much better with a sealed box. I listen to alot of 90's stuff and found that a sealed box works better. When i do mine i plan on running a LOC off the front speaker outs of the bose amp.

[RideWithDanger]

Originally Posted by weatherman71

personally.... i would do a rear firing box..... Also why ported? Todays music sounds soooo much better with a sealed box. I listen to alot of 90's stuff and found that a sealed box works better. When i do mine i plan on running a LOC off the front speaker outs of the bose amp.

Why rear firing? I'd probably keep the seats down for most of my driving and whenever it's not out in a parking lot.

And ported? Because have you ever actually had a custom ported box or just prefabs? I have a single 15 in my current car, custom ported and the sound quality is amazing while also blowing away anyone in my town that has a system.

[KirkH]

The cleanest way to install is to use the PACAudio Amppro AP4-GM61 for GM harness.

https://pac-audio.com/catalog/amppro...faces/ap4-gm61

Here's how to access the amplifier to install the harness.

https://www.camaro6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=547568

Then just mount your amp in the trunk and run RCA cables and the remote turn on wire (or use an Add-A-Circuit fuse tap and use F33 fuse for wireless charger in the rear fuse panel). Run power supply cables from the battery to the amp with a 60A fuse inline and that's it for the subwoofer.

To install additional amps for the BOSE speakers, use amplifier integration harness PAC APH-GM02.

[RideWithDanger]

Wait a second. That's$450 for what exactly? Why can't I just run a decent LoC and connect my amp to that? I don't think I understand how that is beneficial.

For that money I could take out all the speakers and run my own amps and speakers. My goal here is to find a cheap and "easy" way to just add an amp for a subwoofer.

[KirkH]

Originally Posted by RideWithDanger

Wait a second. That's$450 for what exactly? Why can't I just run a decent LoC and connect my amp to that? I don't think I understand how that is beneficial.

For that money I could take out all the speakers and run my own amps and speakers. My goal here is to find a cheap and "easy" way to just add an amp for a subwoofer.

Here's why:

https://aampglobal.zendesk.com/hc/en...d-Installation

It uses the MOST bus signal. Full frequency, full bandwidth, high voltage output.

[KirkH]

Originally Posted by RideWithDanger

My goal here is to find a cheap and "easy" way to just add an amp for a subwoofer.

You didn't say that in your original post. My bad.

[RideWithDanger]

Originally Posted by KirkH

You didn't say that in your original post. My bad.

Last part of second paragraph. It wasn't super clear. I apologize.

[KirkH]

In my 2016 RS I used a PAC LoC to connect my subwoofer. The difference between a LoC and an amplifier interface is stark. My wife describes the sound of the sub using the LoC as "harsh."

With the amp interface, it sounds much nicer to my ears. My wife will actually let me tunrn the sub on when she is riding with me now LOL! The amp interface also has a built in EQ or you can plug an EQ into it.

[RideWithDanger]

I've heard that from people who tapped into the wrong wires and if you tap into a full range wire it works better, and use the amp filters for the correct frequency. So that may be an issue.

I've seen people use a LoC in their camaros and be perfectly fine. And others who use some sub-out on the stock amp. Just trying to figure out what's best, what works and what doesn't.

[KirkH]

I plan to add a DSP to my system so the PAC amppro allows for plug and play.

Theres some good info in this thread:

https://www.camaro6.com/forums/showt...=535567&page=3

[RideWithDanger]

I do car audio a lot and design systems and that just doesn't seem worth it to me. I could take out everything and create my own system at that price. I'm just trying to add a single subwoofer amp to the stock system.

EDIT* Just found this: Bose Harness so would I be better off with this and getting an amp with high level inputs, or just get a LC2i ?

[tecboy]

If you are just adding a sub to the factory system...cheapest and easiest way is a LOC...tap in to the front door speakers. Those are the primary bass in the bose system and actually only see up to about 250hz...the rear deck speakers are the exact same 6x9 as the door...see similar frequencies but dont get as hot of a signal as the doors do. There is a vendor on here (S*bth*mp) that recently came out with a harness you can use at the bose amp to get feeds for a sub amp....


Rear vs front fire sub...i did some internet research on this....decided to go rear firing as it seemed the consensus thought that was a little better than front...


I actually did a full system and took all the speaker out of the bose amp and feed in to a Rockford Fosgate 3Sixty3 DSP to get a signal for my full and sub amps. I di this before the NAV and PAC units came out that allowed tapping the Most50 signal and bypassing the bose amp. The bose amp does too much signal manipulation that its hard to get a clean and complete signal out...Once weather breaks and i get car out of storage...i plan on getting the pac unit and do a fiber connection between that and my RF DSP...


https://www.camaro6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=497975



hope this helps..

[RideWithDanger]

Originally Posted by tecboy

If you are just adding a sub to the factory system...cheapest and easiest way is a LOC...tap in to the front door speakers. Those are the primary bass in the bose system and actually only see up to about 250hz...the rear deck speakers are the exact same 6x9 as the door...see similar frequencies but dont get as hot of a signal as the doors do. There is a vendor on here (S*bth*mp) that recently came out with a harness you can use at the bose amp to get feeds for a sub amp....


Rear vs front fire sub...i did some internet research on this....decided to go rear firing as it seemed the consensus thought that was a little better than front...


I actually did a full system and took all the speaker out of the bose amp and feed in to a Rockford Fosgate 3Sixty3 DSP to get a signal for my full and sub amps. I di this before the NAV and PAC units came out that allowed tapping the Most50 signal and bypassing the bose amp. The bose amp does too much signal manipulation that its hard to get a clean and complete signal out...Once weather breaks and i get car out of storage...i plan on getting the pac unit and do a fiber connection between that and my RF DSP...


https://www.camaro6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=497975



hope this helps..

Thank you! Actually that is what I linked in my last comment but I see that isnt allowed. So what is your opinion on which is better, get the LoC for like $75 and splice in myself to the front speakers and power the amp through that, OR get that harness for $90 and get an amp with high level inputs? Is any way cleaner or better than the other as far as sound quality goes?

Also I design car audio systems as a hobby, typically rear firing is the best way to go UNLESS you are sealing the box from the rest of the trunk which I plan to do. I may end up making a removable box that doesnt seal all the way in which case I will have rear firing.