[Saberscar223]

Originally Posted by ctrlz

The converter will not present any kind of restriction at idle.

As jlaudio mentions, idle is going to be an open loop mode, and the car will use tables to match fuel and spark timing to density (from MAF data) and speed (engine rpm). Coolant temp is also a factor.
You need to know what your A/F is at idle. Sounds like it might be overly rich. This needs to be tuned to get it right, particularly with your mods.

aplogies i meant at parking lot/heavy traffic speeds

[ctrlz]

Originally Posted by Saberscar223

aplogies i meant at parking lot/heavy traffic speeds

You might want to try posting your problem in the tuning sub-forum.
I don't think your tuner finished the job. It does not sound like you installed "wild" parts that should not work with the car.

[jlaudio11]

Originally Posted by Saberscar223

Yeah its super jumpy at idle, mainly because I'm still running the stock converter wondering if upgrading that would fix the issue.

A looser converter would lessen you feeling that jumpiness but wouldn't really fix it. The higher your idle rpm is the closer you'll get to the converters stall speed and you may feel more it. I've tuned multiple cam'ed setups on stock converters and it can be smoothed out. Idle and off idle can be a pain on a cammed gen v's though. Getting the actual and virtual torque inline can take some time.

[FlukeSS]

I don't have the issue on my SS. Which is 3 years older than yours. I also don't have the DA you do most of the time.

But without reading the rest of the thread, my gut tells me thermostat or the opening of the cooling system at certain temps in the tune.