[Saberscar223]

I have a cammed A10 SS and whenever Im in stop and go traffic the car gets super hot. Floorboard and Kneepad areas get hot to the touch and the car severely loses performance and all the Temps read normal levels.

This ONLY happens in stop and go traffic where the pauses are just short enough so I have to stay in drive but I cant go over 5 mph at a time when its time to move. I live in CO so the DA is awful but was just wondering if there are any decent cooling mods anyone could recommend.

Car runs better after a long trip with multiple long pulls at full throttle and idling in park for 20+ min then it does in stop and go traffic for 10 minutes on a cool night. anyone know why? It runs fine after I let it cool for a bit but its crazy how hot it gets in traffic.

[GreyGhost702]

Unfortunately the tunnel in these cars is super tight. Between radiant engine heat and heat off the transmission mostly, it's hard to get away from when you aren't moving. You could do thermal matting in the tranny tunnel, but that's quite the undertaking. It's essentially dyno-mat. You could alternatively insulate it from the interior, but I think it's better done in the tunnel.

Beyond that, set the A/C on floor and let it blow. If you could bring all your mechanical temps down or evacuate that heat quickly while not moving, GM and other manufacturers would love to know how you do it.

[arpad_m]

My suggestion would also be to direct the A/C to the floor, not much more you can do without significant effort and expense. Interestingly, I never noticed anything like this on my non-stock SS...

[Joshinator99]

Originally Posted by Saberscar223

I have a cammed A10 SS and whenever Im in stop and go traffic the car gets super hot. Floorboard and Kneepad areas get hot to the touch and the car severely loses performance and all the Temps read normal levels.

This ONLY happens in stop and go traffic where the pauses are just short enough so I have to stay in drive but I cant go over 5 mph at a time when its time to move. I live in CO so the DA is awful but was just wondering if there are any decent cooling mods anyone could recommend.

Car runs better after a long trip with multiple long pulls at full throttle and idling in park for 20+ min then it does in stop and go traffic for 10 minutes on a cool night. anyone know why? It runs fine after I let it cool for a bit but its crazy how hot it gets in traffic.

What does your timing at idle look like…?

[s346k]

Originally Posted by arpad_m

My suggestion would also be to direct the A/C to the floor, not much more you can do without significant effort and expense. Interestingly, I never noticed anything like this on my non-stock SS...

all of this. also i never experienced anything hot or even warm in the cabin of my camaro. we sat in traffic on the power tour waiting to get in the venue for almost 2 hours. ambient temp was 100+. i had the ac on about 3/4 and it was cold enough my teenage daughter was under a blanket (not saying much i know). iats were 120+ but the coolant temp never got over 205. car was on ethanol at the time.

the console in my c4 got so hot you couldn't touch it. it was ridiculous. 100% stock at the time. i'm hoping ethanol and an aluminum engine mitigates some of that nonsense. if its still really hot i'll do lizard skin or some kind of heat barrier. not much room in the tunnel above that t56 magnum tho.

[SOCAL.M6.ZLE]

A few questions...


1. Do you have HP Tuners?

2. What coolant / oil temps are you seeing during cruising vs after a long stop?

3. What are your fan settings? I can share mine if you like... it is an easy change, and helps alot!

[Saberscar223]

Originally Posted by GreyGhost702

Unfortunately the tunnel in these cars is super tight. Between radiant engine heat and heat off the transmission mostly, it's hard to get away from when you aren't moving. You could do thermal matting in the tranny tunnel, but that's quite the undertaking. It's essentially dyno-mat. You could alternatively insulate it from the interior, but I think it's better done in the tunnel.

Beyond that, set the A/C on floor and let it blow. If you could bring all your mechanical temps down or evacuate that heat quickly while not moving, GM and other manufacturers would love to know how you do it.

Yeah I just thought it was weird it doesn’t get that hot during Idle even for long periods of time but if I’m going under 10mph and have to stop every few seconds it gets super hot. The temperature itself doesn’t bother me or anything the main symptom that worries me is how sluggish and jerky it gets afterwards. If I drive it for a bit at cruising highway speeds or park it and turn it off for a bit it goes back to normal.

[ctrlz]

Originally Posted by Joshinator99

What does your timing at idle look like…?

Also, do you have headers?
This sounds to me like your timing is retarded and you are burning fuel (or dumping too much heat) in the exhaust.
Do you have one of those IR thermometers to get some temp readings? They are cheap on amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/Infrared-Ther...ca7fbcb4f299c0

[Saberscar223]

Originally Posted by ctrlz

Also, do you have headers?
This sounds to me like your timing is retarded and you are burning fuel (or dumping too much heat) in the exhaust.
Do you have one of those IR thermometers to get some temp readings? They are cheap on amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/Infrared-Ther...ca7fbcb4f299c0

Yeah I have kooks LTH. Also fuel may be a part of it because when it acts like this the car accelerates pretty slow even on WOT and it burbles and pops while accelerating which it NEVER does. It pops alot afterwards but not during high RPMS like it does when its hot.

[ctrlz]

Originally Posted by Saberscar223

the car accelerates pretty slow even on WOT and it burbles and pops while accelerating which it NEVER does.

Sounds like fuel burning in the exhaust.
Don't discount the possibility of a leak, like maybe an injector.

[Saberscar223]

Originally Posted by ctrlz

Sounds like fuel burning in the exhaust.
Don't discount the possibility of a leak, like maybe an injector.

Yeah I may have my tuner take a look. But like I said, all these symptoms ONLY happen after being in stop and go traffic in particular. Its fine after a day driven hard or idling in the sun but stop and go traffic really does a number on it.

[jlaudio11]

Couple things to consider and what I've done to help my personal turbo setup.

I have a 160 thermostat and fans turning on early, I'd have to look at tune for specifics but my engine coolant never gets over 185 really. My biggest heat issues are sitting idling for awhile and the whole thing heat soaks, pulls in hot air and takes a little bit of steady driving to cool the oil temp and intercooler down.

This could definitely be tune related. The ecm uses maf and speed density info at different times to appropriately fuel the car. There are also idle specific tables. If the torque model is off in the transition off idle and up into part throttle cruising, it could move timing around alot trying to hit it's target. If that timing is pretty low and you do it over and over again, like stop and go traffic it could naturally build up a lot of heat. This kind of seems likely to me because you say it's fine just idling. The separate idle tables are keeping idle timing up.

[Saberscar223]

Originally Posted by jlaudio11

Couple things to consider and what I've done to help my personal turbo setup.

I have a 160 thermostat and fans turning on early, I'd have to look at tune for specifics but my engine coolant never gets over 185 really. My biggest heat issues are sitting idling for awhile and the whole thing heat soaks, pulls in hot air and takes a little bit of steady driving to cool the oil temp and intercooler down.

This could definitely be tune related. The ecm uses maf and speed density info at different times to appropriately fuel the car. There are also idle specific tables. If the torque model is off in the transition off idle and up into part throttle cruising, it could move timing around alot trying to hit it's target. If that timing is pretty low and you do it over and over again, like stop and go traffic it could naturally build up a lot of heat. This kind of seems likely to me because you say it's fine just idling. The separate idle tables are keeping idle timing up.

Yeah its super jumpy at idle, mainly because I'm still running the stock converter wondering if upgrading that would fix the issue.

[ctrlz]

Originally Posted by Saberscar223

Yeah its super jumpy at idle, mainly because I'm still running the stock converter wondering if upgrading that would fix the issue.

The converter will not present any kind of restriction at idle.

As jlaudio mentions, idle is going to be an open loop mode, and the car will use tables to match fuel and spark timing to density (from MAF data) and speed (engine rpm). Coolant temp is also a factor.
You need to know what your A/F is at idle. Sounds like it might be overly rich. This needs to be tuned to get it right, particularly with your mods.