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Old 11-16-2017, 11:58 AM   #15
aka Reckless
 
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Well I spoke with Kurt Urban (godfather of LS engines). We have worked together twice in the past. He said run a breather can. but keep some kind of PCV hooked up. So I added a PCV valve from the intake to the valley cover.
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Old 11-16-2017, 12:31 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aka Reckless View Post
Well I spoke with Kurt Urban (godfather of LS engines). We have worked together twice in the past. He said run a breather can. but keep some kind of PCV hooked up. So I added a PCV valve from the intake to the valley cover.
Some people have boost pressure at their intake and I have been told the pcv valve will fail at higher boost levels and then allow pressurized air from the intake into the valley.

You will also get a fair amount of oil into your intake from that hose. I don't want any oil getting into my charge air.
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dropped a valve in the 6.2. now running a drop in rods and piston 5.3
best et 5.83@121 with the 5.3 http://www.camaro6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=465472
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Old 11-17-2017, 09:56 AM   #17
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Originally Posted by parish8 View Post
Some people have boost pressure at their intake and I have been told the pcv valve will fail at higher boost levels and then allow pressurized air from the intake into the valley.

You will also get a fair amount of oil into your intake from that hose. I don't want any oil getting into my charge air.
Understandable. I have noticed a serious amount of fumes running the breather can. It is so bad I am going to vent the can outside the engine bay. These engine bays are sealed up fairly well and the fumes are coming in through the vents.
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Old 11-17-2017, 08:16 PM   #18
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I build a custom catch can/breather and water resivor/overflow tank. Won't work with procharger cars (if I can find a local with a procharger i can design and build one that will work with procharger)

for vents,

I pull the valve covers off and press out the pressed in fittings, i then drill out slightly and tap with 1/2" npt to use a nice an fitting on -10. Both valve covers vented and the pcv vented to the tank. The ugly plastic oil seperator behind the water pump I pull out and i take the drain tube out of the oil pan, I then cut it down and weld it and re install it just to keep the pan sealed off.

Heater lines can easily be ran back but I live in Houston Tx and don't need any of that stuff lmao. I will add them back in later it starts getting foggy windshields and get tired of wiping them down with a towel I'm sure.
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Old 03-26-2021, 09:49 PM   #19
s3rics213
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Only pulling suction on the crankcase at all times never allowing pressure ever build is proper crankcase evacuation. Defeating the cross flow flushing and actual evacuation of an engine results in leaving much of the damaging combustion by-products to settle and mix with the engine greatly increasing wear. NO Professional Motorsports "vents" with breathers as they know better than to sacrifice the engine. Also, venting results in ring flutter and compounds blow-by. Anyone venting could be sacrificing the durability of their engine.
On a boosted application (d1x,built motor) what would you Suggest for the valve covers, crank, oem weird thing and intake manifold spots. My crank is currently blocked off. (Caped) can pm also
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