[Eric SS]

Originally Posted by AZ_1LE

https://youtu.be/W-Ji10MU22o?t=9m13s


I was all about them until I saw Matt bouncing around in the car on a rough road. That looks annoying as hell.

I can't watch the video now at work but is it possible it's more because of the hard mounted rear cradle and less about the DSSV? I'll watch when I get home

[AZ_1LE]

Originally Posted by Eric SS

I can't watch the video now at work but is it possible it's more because of the hard mounted rear cradle and less about the DSSV? I'll watch when I get home

The suspension is extremely stiff. Disappointingly so. I understand it's track focused but I am surprised there is so little adjustment for dampening to make it more street driveable.

[Eric SS]

Originally Posted by AZ_1LE

The suspension is extremely stiff. Disappointingly so. I understand it's track focused but I am surprised there is so little adjustment for dampening to make it more street driveable.

Hmmm Interesting... I don't put a ton of miles on my Camaro so I'll likely still consider them but time will tell. If Chevy releases them and they are $5,500 I'll probably pass. If they are $3,500 I'll likely jump. You can get the entire kit including swaybars for the 5th gen for around $3k.

[glamcem]

Originally Posted by AZ_1LE

For those of you thinking about getting the DSSV's, I hope you don't daily drive your car. You're going to hate it.

I've sat in a previous gen with DSSVs and the ride was not bad at all. Of course, it will be a bit bumpy on the rough surfaces but it shouldn't be nearly as bad as my old STI (oem struts) it was horrible. Then again, it will be noticeably different than the MRCs with street/touring setting of course but shouldn't be intolerable.

One important common misconception is "stiffer the springs/ suspension, the poorer the ride quality" . It all comes down the quality of the dampers and there are many other factors that affect that . I've sat in track cars with 12k-14k springs and the ride was still very good. And the same can be said for the opposite, STI and Focus RS are notorious for that

Originally Posted by Eric SS

Toe out? I was getting toe in as I adjusted the camber at the plate.

EDIT: Nevermind, I think we're talking about the same thing and just using different terms.
The more negative camber you add, the more the toe will kick out on our plartform. I think that's what you are saying. When I hear the phrase "lower the camber" I think of taking away negative camber.

If you already measured it I think your logic should be correct, so adding more negative camber should increase the negative toe (toe out) Isn't that the same with the DSSVs (adding -1.7 camber adds about .05 toe out? I would be surprised if it was any different on this camber plate.

Btw, if my math is correct you have about .20 degree positive camber (toe in) on the street. It's not too bad but if there will be longer commutes it may shorten the lifespan of the tires for sure. I wonder if there's a way to find a common ground such as adding most of that camber on the knuckle vs adding most of them on the plate. I understand the logic behind adding more up top so that there is a more variety/selection of aftermarket wheels (18" or 19" apex affordable Apex wheels ..etc) without grinding the strut tabs or not to deal with spacers but those things never really bothered me at the track and I have yet to see any ill effects of them

[Moreno1]

Bumping this thread so it can serve as a discussion thread while we wait for the other one to be revived!

[Eric SS]

I did my first track day with the camber plates this weekend. It was actually a little .8 mile Go Kart track but it was pretty fun. When I got to the track I was able to adjust the plates to 1.5* in addition to what i had at the knuckle and it was pretty easy. Jack the car up, loosen the three nuts and away you go. However, It was pretty difficult for me to actually get them to move. I had to do a touch of prying with a socket extension between the top of the plate and the strut nut to get it to move. Not enough to worry me at all. Anyone know the easiest way to do this? I tried pulling up on the wheel and tire to remove some pressure but still was having trouble. No big deal, just curious.

The plates themselves held up just fine and when it was all done I was able to easily dial them back to zero before leaving for the day. All and all I would say it was a 100% success on track! I think I'm going to even go with more camber next time than the roughly -3* I had.

Thread to the time attack run: http://www.camaro6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=504959

[WhiteNight]

How do they ride on the road? Any noticeable harshness or noise?

[Eric SS]

Originally Posted by WhiteNight

How do they ride on the road? Any noticeable harshness or noise?

I haven't noticed anything different on the road. No additional noises. I assume it is probably slightly more jarring up front just because of the hard mounts to the body but I can't really tell anything. I would not be dissuaded if you are worried about noise or harshness.

[WhiteNight]

That s good to know especially since you have the BMR springs, which I will be installing as well.

[thescreensavers]

So stock alignment adjustments with OEM tires and MRC we can get to -2.2 deg static with these plates only benefit is to further Increase that angle?

[TrackClub]

Originally Posted by thescreensavers

So stock alignment adjustments with OEM tires and MARC we can get to -2.2 deg static with these plates only benefit is to further Increase that angle?

I got -2.6F on stock bolts on my 1LE at my GM dealership.
Yes these plates permit to go further. Note that some "grinding" will also get ya to -2.9 and some folks have done it. Also note a separate thread about one member experiencing a plate failure on both sides. So stay tuned...

[thescreensavers]

Originally Posted by TrackClub

I got -2.6F on stock bolts on my 1LE at my GM dealership.
Yes these plates permit to go further. Note that some "grinding" will also get ya to -2.9 and some folks have done it. Also note a separate thread about one member experiencing a plate failure on both sides. So stay tuned...

You were able to get toe in check with that much Negative camber?

So what's the point of these plates if "enough" camber is able to be obtained through existing adjustments?

Maybe we need more than stock but maybe we don't.

I killed my OEM supercars by tracking on street alignment, won't be doing that again but I fail to see what this product brings to the table.

[Eric SS]

Originally Posted by thescreensavers

You were able to get toe in check with that much Negative camber?

So what's the point of these plates if "enough" camber is able to be obtained through existing adjustments?

Maybe we need more than stock but maybe we don't.

I killed my OEM supercars by tracking on street alignment, won't be doing that again but I fail to see what this product brings to the table.

With MRC and 19” wheels you can’t get more than about -1.6* without clearance issues (spacers/studs can get you more). Plus, I like being able to set the camber when I get to the track and setvit back to street before I leave.

[TEX1LE]

If you leave the car stock or with minor mods -2.5 will be okay. Once you start running slicks and have a lot of suspension upgrades you'll

need more than -2.5. Just depends on what you want to do with your car.