[Elite Engineering]

Originally Posted by JBones81

awesome info, Elite, link me to your site for purchase!

http://www.eliteengineeringusa.com/c...our-catch-can/

[seanblurr]

Originally Posted by Arsentic

I definitely want to get one of these but my car already has 5K miles. What about all the stuff I never caught? How can I flush that out? I wish I got one on day one. Should I use seafoam or another additive to flush the engine and then add one of these?

I'm sure your car is fine.

[Arsentic]

Originally Posted by seanblurr

I'm sure your car is fine.

I'm really OCD about this stuff, lol. I feel like I HAVE to flush it now. In that case, what should I do? Use Seafoam and change the oil?

[zryan]

Originally Posted by Elite Engineering

I'll start with the 1 vs. 2 Outlet (Exit) Ports. On all the Elite Engineering Catch Cans, the center, top port is always the INLET connection from the crankcase.

So, the only real option is the Single EXIT or the Dual EXIT Catch Can.

On a NA engine, during acceleration, the intake manifold vacuum is used as the suction source to evacuate the damaging compounds entering as blow-by from the crankcase before they can settle and mix with the oil.

But, when you accelerate, that vacuum drops to zero and no evacuation takes place. It is during these periods that the water, raw fuel, sulfuric acid, and abrasive soot, carbon, and ash particles settle and mix with the oil, and these cause the wear to the engine.

The Dual Catch Can (second Exit fitting) is used to tap into an alternate evacuation suction source. This source is typically at a location just in front, or upstream of the throttle body. Note: If you do choose to install the Dual Exit (second Exit Port), you will be required to drill into your existing intake tube and insert a hose barb fitting.

In addition, we use one-way inline checkvalves to open and close, to always default to the strongest suction source at the time. This provides full time crankcase evacuation instead of only when not accelerating or at wide open throttle (WOT) when no vacuum is present.

Additional comment:
Why does the vacuum drop to zero at WOT? The cam lobes all have overlap. That overlap is when the exhaust valve has not fully closed and the intake valve is starting to open (and vice versa). This allows reversion pulses to travel back up each intake runner and these cancel the vacuum present. This is also the period when pressure builds in the crankcase seeking the path of least resistance, which is backwards through the clean, or fresh side of the PCV system pushing oil and contaminate laden vapors into your main intake air tube assy.

Differences between the Catch Cans:

Our original "Standard" Elite Catch Can was the industry standard for a long time. It's a great affordable unit for most port injection engines. We have retained this version as it is low cost to produce and is still more effective than most other cans costing twice as much.

The newly designed E2 and the E2-X incorporate our latest designs and employ the most effective designs to address the issues all GDI engines experience. A great fit for the GDI owner or mild FI build. AN fittings and billet check valves are standard. The E2-X also includes a high quality ¼-turn ball valve for draining, whereas the E2 has a screw-off bottom. Both Catch Cans can be completely disassembled for cleaning if needed.

Our E2-X Ultra is just that. The Ultimate solution for road racing, drag racing, big power stroker's and forced induction where the added capacity is critical. If you run aggressively and want to have not only the best protection from oil mist and other contaminate ingestion, this is the system for you. For the road racer, the Ultra will pull suction at all times on the crankcase and is the most effective "catchcan" on the market currently that most closely emulates the functions of a belt driven vacuum pump system. Cleaner oil, more power, and less detonation/Knock Retard. The E2-X "Ultra" is a beast in performance and is substantially larger in size than the E2-X.

All Elite systems retain a closed emissions compliant system (not CARB cert for CA.) and adding the cleanside separator is highly recommended.

So, for the budget minded buyer with a port injection engine, our Standard Elite Catch Can is still one of the best solutions for the money as it always has been. But for GDI engines, the E2 and E2-X are the best in the industry.

No matter what your vehicle, no matter the power, the build, etc. we feel that no one has a more robust proven solution than Elite Engineering, and we continue to improve and add applications going forward.

Dude, that was awesome I will be purchasing the ultimate depending on price I may get the E2x. Thank you!

[JBones81]

Hey, Elite, I'm still on the fence about just which of your cans to order. My 1LE sees limited usage (maybe 3k miles/year). I don't drive it super aggresively, and I likely won't ever actually race it. (if this changes, then I would step up my engine protection).

****ON EDIT - Looks like I can't even order the basic one for a 2016 + SS Camaro with LT1...is that correct?****

However, I do want some peace of mind that I'm keeping bad stuff out of the engine. So, is the standard can enough for my application, or am I being cheap/lazy to not get the E2?

Thanks again - I hope this thread can help many other SS owners!

[seanblurr]

Originally Posted by Arsentic

I'm really OCD about this stuff, lol. I feel like I HAVE to flush it now. In that case, what should I do? Use Seafoam and change the oil?

No idea, I'm on my ~10th track day without a can.

[TrackClub]

9th day and 6k miles without a can here

[zryan]

Originally Posted by JBones81

Hey, Elite, I'm still on the fence about just which of your cans to order. My 1LE sees limited usage (maybe 3k miles/year). I don't drive it super aggresively, and I likely won't ever actually race it. (if this changes, then I would step up my engine protection).

****ON EDIT - Looks like I can't even order the basic one for a 2016 + SS Camaro with LT1...is that correct?****

However, I do want some peace of mind that I'm keeping bad stuff out of the engine. So, is the standard can enough for my application, or am I being cheap/lazy to not get the E2?

Thanks again - I hope this thread can help many other SS owners!

You're definitely fine with getting the standard but its up to you. Let that 1le eat every once in awhile.

[Ryephile]

Originally Posted by TrackClub

9th day and 6k miles without a can here

Yea adding a dirty side PCV catch can (like the one from Elite) is a good idea to keep the valves clean, not having one doesn't hurt anything but your long term power level and really long term valve seats condition.

A walnut shell service a few times in the engines lifetime would be the obvious alternative to installing a dirty side PCV catch can, and even with such a can installed, it'll just delay the walnut shell cleaning, not eliminate it.

[SS 1LE]

Originally Posted by Arsentic

I'm really OCD about this stuff, lol. I feel like I HAVE to flush it now. In that case, what should I do? Use Seafoam and change the oil?

Just add it, no reason to get all worried with only 5K miles on it...

[SS 1LE]

Originally Posted by Ryephile

Yea adding a dirty side PCV catch can (like the one from Elite) is a good idea to keep the valves clean, not having one doesn't hurt anything but your long term power level and really long term valve seats condition.

A walnut shell service a few times in the engines lifetime would be the obvious alternative to installing a dirty side PCV catch can, and even with such a can installed, it'll just delay the walnut shell cleaning, not eliminate it.

I wonder how many miles one of these Camaro spec LT1's can go (meaning before power or something would possibly be effected) until they need any sort of walnut blasting...like with and without a catch can?

Curious...

I would guesstimate with a catch can, maybe 75K, and without a catch can 50K?

My car only gets about 3000 miles a year put on it as I have multiple cars, so that would take me a long time (if ever lol) to get there with a catch can...

[Elite Engineering]

Originally Posted by JBones81

Hey, Elite, I'm still on the fence about just which of your cans to order. My 1LE sees limited usage (maybe 3k miles/year). I don't drive it super aggresively, and I likely won't ever actually race it. (if this changes, then I would step up my engine protection).

****ON EDIT - Looks like I can't even order the basic one for a 2016 + SS Camaro with LT1...is that correct?****

However, I do want some peace of mind that I'm keeping bad stuff out of the engine. So, is the standard can enough for my application, or am I being cheap/lazy to not get the E2?

Thanks again - I hope this thread can help many other SS owners!

Because of the improved internal design of the Catch Cans and your GDI engine, we would always recommend our E2 or E2-X Catch Can for this type of application.

[Elite Engineering]

Here is a before and after dyno at 19k miles on a new LT1. a restoration of 19 RWHP after manual valve cleaning. The problem with relying on the manual valve cleaning is the wear to the softer brass alloy valve guides from the abrasive coking deposits.


We do NOT suggest a solvent based engine running cleaning as scouring to the pistons and cylinder walls results from the loosened deposits being forced between them. These deposits are a hard abrasive make up vs the "soft" carbon of the past. Only a manual cleaning done properly is safe.

[EV2DEMON]

Since you posted it, I'm going to critique the graph.

My first question is what does a manual valve cleaning consist of? Does that mean the heads were removed from the car?

What other changes were made? Was the manual valve cleaning the only difference, and how far apart (time wise) were the pulls conducted?

Were SAE corrections applied to both pulls? The graph does not indicate that they were.

Lastly, can you explain what would have caused the torque loss to be consistent at all RPM? I'm having a hard time understanding how deposits accumulated at 19K miles could have resulted in a curve that mirrors the other aside from an oddly consistent 15 ft/lb loss.

Thanks.