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Old 05-18-2017, 03:46 PM   #29
mjk3888
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Quote:
Originally Posted by seanblurr View Post
I did. I use a vacuum bleeder to do the flush, and then "fine tune" bleed using the traditional two-person method.
Was 1L enough fluid?
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Old 05-18-2017, 08:49 PM   #30
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NCRC is the 9th. Speed SF is 8th. He's got it.
Got it thanks!

Registered for Thursday and Friday now. Weeee!!!

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Old 05-18-2017, 09:45 PM   #31
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Was 1L enough fluid?
Yes it was. I had an extra bottle so I re-bled after the cars first event just to make sure it was good to go.
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Old 05-19-2017, 08:24 AM   #32
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Yes it was. I had an extra bottle so I re-bled after the cars first event just to make sure it was good to go.
Sorry for Hijacking the thread, but how much fluid did you pull from each bleeder? Could you see a difference in color between the OEM and SRF? How can you tell you completely flushed the old fluid out?
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Old 05-19-2017, 10:12 AM   #33
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Yeah, there is a slight color change. OEM is a tad yellow, while SRF is clear.
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Old 05-19-2017, 10:52 AM   #34
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Yeah, there is a slight color change. OEM is a tad yellow, while SRF is clear.
awesome thanks!
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Old 05-19-2017, 11:22 PM   #35
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Even my RBF turns blood-in-pee orange. No problem seeing it run clean. My calipers went from silver to bronze in the last two events. Guess I'm using the brakes. Anybody else see the paint change color? Not a thread jack...just a very temporary deviation
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Old 05-23-2017, 09:59 AM   #36
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Sean. Those were phenomenal laps. Seriously fast. I was up at Sears last weekend with NASA. Best I could do was a mid 52. Just too conservative in my old/middle age to max out fast turns like 10. I ran on track/race mode as that is what I'm seeing on posted videos. No traction control, one step from everything off, right? I started out accelerating carefully out of the corners, being mindful of 650hp and really getting on it once the car was straight. As I became more comfortable in the car I began accelerating out of the corners earlier and earlier. Eventually I felt a restriction or slowing, preventing the car from getting too loose. I assumed that as the traction control was off, the eLSD was actively preventing throttle oversteer? Later in the day coming out of turn 7 in 2nd I tried flooring it early to get oversteer and the car really bogged down for a sec, preventing the rear from getting loose. It almost felt like you could go faster by accelerating earlier and rely on the diff to maximize exit speeds...
I noticed on your video you go to full throttle way earlier than I do. Do you notice the diff as well? Still amazed by your times - especially how calm the car appears on video. It would be interesting to see your hands on the wheel - pretty busy I would guess.




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Old 05-23-2017, 10:27 AM   #37
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Hey Pete,

I was hanging out there on Sunday with some friends and saw your car, I was going to swing by to say hello but never got a chance. The track was pretty slow last weekend, so don't think too much on your times. I'm fairly certain even in PTM:Race the car still utilizes a bit of stability control, which is what you are feeling. It may be faster with everything off, but I have nothing to prove and would rather have the added insurance of a nanny.
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Old 05-23-2017, 12:42 PM   #38
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Yeah I never thought the stability control was intrusive but was surprised that it worked as much as it did. The car is so stable and confidence inspiring - especially when getting on the throttle. Really just a blast to drive. I agree with not turning everything off. Gotta protect the daily driver. I'll have to try it at an autox sometime..
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Old 05-25-2017, 08:44 AM   #39
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TC is still alive and well in PTM Race. Albeit in its most aggressive setting. A good link from GM engineer as to how to get the most out of the car per their design (to do with steering angles and how to use them for most power with PTM and eLsD. Sorry don't have a link right here but look for my post on PTM in 1LE section. There is a chart there plus an above mentioned link. Might be of help to get the most out of the car. Cheers!
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Old 06-02-2017, 03:51 AM   #40
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srf

swapped motul 600 to srf as was recommended put powerstop z36 on and new postop slotted n drilled rotors, after 6 laps pedal went to floor and stopping was very poor. Temp was not out of the world so quit, brakes returned to normal by the time got home ... dealer bleed system 1L and no air in system, research said compressibility of the srf at high temp is way high trying rs683 next ...on order... swapped back to oem pads but really believe it was srf failing... with oem and stock pads/rotors no issues as far as brake pedal goes.
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Old 06-02-2017, 06:39 AM   #41
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Your problem was almost certainly the Z36 pads. They're intended for trucks and towing, not racing.


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Old 06-02-2017, 12:21 PM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dwill8335 View Post
swapped motul 600 to srf as was recommended put powerstop z36 on and new postop slotted n drilled rotors, after 6 laps pedal went to floor and stopping was very poor. Temp was not out of the world so quit, brakes returned to normal by the time got home ... dealer bleed system 1L and no air in system, research said compressibility of the srf at high temp is way high trying rs683 next ...on order... swapped back to oem pads but really believe it was srf failing... with oem and stock pads/rotors no issues as far as brake pedal goes.
SRF sure as hell isnt the problem.
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