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#1 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 17 SS a8 Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: omaha
Posts: 1,678
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Bmr rear suspension parts report.
We are putting the cradle lock out kit and all the bars on a couple of cars and will have a report on how they work soon.
First thing they look very nice. They also weigh at least twice what the stock stuff does. We both went with the single adjustable stuff. I think we wasted money on the top bar. The stock one is pretty robust and has a sphearical end on it. More impressions to come.
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dropped a valve in the 6.2. now running a drop in rods and piston 5.3
best et 5.83@121 with the 5.3 http://www.camaro6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=465472 |
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#2 |
![]() Drives: 2017 Nightfall Grey Auto 2SS Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Blue Springs MO.
Posts: 525
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Let me know how easy the lock out stuff goes in. I just received all the rest of my BMR stuff..
Suspension: BMR SP041 Springs (rear) BMR SP042A Spring (front) BMR TCA059 Lower Trailing Arm BMR UCTA058 Upper Trailing Arm BMR TR007 Double Adjustable Toe Rod BMR UTCA062 Single Adjustable Upper Control Arm BMR BK062 Delrin Rear Cradle Bushings BMR CB008 Front of Rear Cradle Brace BMR DSL019 Driveshaft Safety Loop |
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#3 | |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 17 SS a8 Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: omaha
Posts: 1,678
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the lock out kit was a little more work. the front ones went in pretty easy but the back bolts wouldn't reach so I found a longer bolt to pull one side in so the other side would reach.
both sets of the toe rods are missing the square washers and bolts. bmr is sending them. also we asked for all black and we got 1/2 black and 1/2 red. since my car is red I went with the red and bmr gave us a little discount for the mess up. Quote:
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dropped a valve in the 6.2. now running a drop in rods and piston 5.3
best et 5.83@121 with the 5.3 http://www.camaro6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=465472 |
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#4 | |
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Novice Driver
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Quote:
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Modifications: BMR suspension & front brace, DSC v2 controller, ported throttle body, Rotofab intake, Rimblades rim protection (red)
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#5 | |
![]() Drives: 2017 2SS MRC NPP Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Illinois
Posts: 63
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Quote:
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2017 - Black - Silverado 1500 Crew Cab - LTZ
4x4 - 5.3 - 6spd - 3.42 - black leather Sold 8/31/2017 2017 - Silver Ice Metallic - 2SS A8 - MRC - NPP - black leather 1996 - Sebring Silver - Trans Am - WS6 383cid - Ported heads - Bullet Cam - 4l60e - Yank SS4000 - 3.90 gears - Kor3 Brakes Built and tuned by me 445rwhp @ 6400rpm - 11.4 @ 122mph Collecting parts for 408 LS3 and 500rwhp. |
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#6 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2017 1SS/1LE Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: FL Panhandle
Posts: 1,559
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#7 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 17 SS a8 Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: omaha
Posts: 1,678
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The highest bar. In the center. Not sure what all the names are.
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dropped a valve in the 6.2. now running a drop in rods and piston 5.3
best et 5.83@121 with the 5.3 http://www.camaro6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=465472 |
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#8 |
![]() Drives: 2017 2SS MRC NPP Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Illinois
Posts: 63
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You mean the upper control arm then. Looking at some photos from earlier work i did on my car i can see what you're saying about the stocker being beefy.
The two that run toward the front of the car and look like swiss cheese are the trailing arms. The one that is behind the axle is the toe rod. Any idea what thread size/length bolt you needed to pull the cradle up and get the rear bushing bolts in? Still trying to figure out what i am going to buy for mine. Your feedback is appreciated.
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2017 - Black - Silverado 1500 Crew Cab - LTZ
4x4 - 5.3 - 6spd - 3.42 - black leather Sold 8/31/2017 2017 - Silver Ice Metallic - 2SS A8 - MRC - NPP - black leather 1996 - Sebring Silver - Trans Am - WS6 383cid - Ported heads - Bullet Cam - 4l60e - Yank SS4000 - 3.90 gears - Kor3 Brakes Built and tuned by me 445rwhp @ 6400rpm - 11.4 @ 122mph Collecting parts for 408 LS3 and 500rwhp. |
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#9 |
![]() Drives: 2017 1SS 1LE (Krypton Green) Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: Fort Collins, Colorado
Posts: 143
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I currently torn between the non-adjustable and single adjustable. I'm not gonna see much track time with my work schedule but I will hit the mountain roads frequently. The single adjustable has better steel and the (obviously) adjustable component while being almost double the cost. The non-adjustable are tempting just for the more compliant (NVH wise) ride and cheaper cost since I'm only planning a set of BMR springs and won't need much adjustment.
Decisions decisions..... BMR, care to weigh in? |
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#10 | |
![]() Drives: 2023 LT2 Redline Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Mont Belvieu Tx
Posts: 714
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Quote:
my .02
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2015 1LE sold
2016 2SS sold 2023 LT2 Redline |
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#11 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2017 1SS/1LE Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: FL Panhandle
Posts: 1,559
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I went with the non-adjustable arms.
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#12 | |
![]() Drives: 2017 Nightfall Grey Auto 2SS Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Blue Springs MO.
Posts: 525
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Quote:
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#13 |
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Drives: 2016 Camaro 2SS Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Tampa, FL
Posts: 256
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The biggest question to address on the adjustable versus non adjustable is power level and how far you plan to push the car in competition versus street time. Also future plans will weight into this. If you plan to get more serious later on with power or performance, then get the adjustable from the beginning to give yourself room to grow. If you plan to leave the car at its current level and never go above it, then the non-adjustable will be plenty
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#14 |
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Drives: 2016 Camaro 2SS Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Tampa, FL
Posts: 256
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For those who have had the issue with the hardware that have not been addressed yet (I know 2 people have contacted me regarding this, including the OP) give me a call and I will get the components sent out to you. We have checked through the rest of our inventory and made sure all current inventory has all of the necessary pieces.
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