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Old 04-21-2017, 11:18 AM   #1
parish8

 
Drives: 17 SS a8
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Bmr rear suspension parts report.

We are putting the cradle lock out kit and all the bars on a couple of cars and will have a report on how they work soon.

First thing they look very nice. They also weigh at least twice what the stock stuff does. We both went with the single adjustable stuff.

I think we wasted money on the top bar. The stock one is pretty robust and has a sphearical end on it.

More impressions to come.
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dropped a valve in the 6.2. now running a drop in rods and piston 5.3
best et 5.83@121 with the 5.3 http://www.camaro6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=465472
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Old 04-21-2017, 04:31 PM   #2
Perdieu
 
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Let me know how easy the lock out stuff goes in. I just received all the rest of my BMR stuff..

Suspension:
BMR SP041 Springs (rear)
BMR SP042A Spring (front)
BMR TCA059 Lower Trailing Arm
BMR UCTA058 Upper Trailing Arm
BMR TR007 Double Adjustable Toe Rod
BMR UTCA062 Single Adjustable Upper Control Arm
BMR BK062 Delrin Rear Cradle Bushings
BMR CB008 Front of Rear Cradle Brace
BMR DSL019 Driveshaft Safety Loop
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Old 04-21-2017, 05:23 PM   #3
parish8

 
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the lock out kit was a little more work. the front ones went in pretty easy but the back bolts wouldn't reach so I found a longer bolt to pull one side in so the other side would reach.

both sets of the toe rods are missing the square washers and bolts. bmr is sending them.

also we asked for all black and we got 1/2 black and 1/2 red. since my car is red I went with the red and bmr gave us a little discount for the mess up.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Perdieu View Post
Let me know how easy the lock out stuff goes in. I just received all the rest of my BMR stuff..

Suspension:
BMR SP041 Springs (rear)
BMR SP042A Spring (front)
BMR TCA059 Lower Trailing Arm
BMR UCTA058 Upper Trailing Arm
BMR TR007 Double Adjustable Toe Rod
BMR UTCA062 Single Adjustable Upper Control Arm
BMR BK062 Delrin Rear Cradle Bushings
BMR CB008 Front of Rear Cradle Brace
BMR DSL019 Driveshaft Safety Loop
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dropped a valve in the 6.2. now running a drop in rods and piston 5.3
best et 5.83@121 with the 5.3 http://www.camaro6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=465472
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Old 04-24-2017, 07:32 AM   #4
Paully104
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Quote:
Originally Posted by parish8 View Post
the lock out kit was a little more work. the front ones went in pretty easy but the back bolts wouldn't reach so I found a longer bolt to pull one side in so the other side would reach.

both sets of the toe rods are missing the square washers and bolts. bmr is sending them.

also we asked for all black and we got 1/2 black and 1/2 red. since my car is red I went with the red and bmr gave us a little discount for the mess up.
Interesting, when I got my toe rod they also were missing the square washers and bolts, that's unfortunate to hear that is still an issue.
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Old 04-24-2017, 10:19 PM   #5
Mr. Rager
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by parish8 View Post
We are putting the cradle lock out kit and all the bars on a couple of cars and will have a report on how they work soon.

First thing they look very nice. They also weigh at least twice what the stock stuff does. We both went with the single adjustable stuff.

I think we wasted money on the top bar. The stock one is pretty robust and has a sphearical end on it.

More impressions to come.
What exactly do you mean by top bar, upper trailing arm, upper control arm?
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Sold 8/31/2017 2017 - Silver Ice Metallic - 2SS
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1996 - Sebring Silver - Trans Am - WS6
383cid - Ported heads - Bullet Cam - 4l60e - Yank SS4000 - 3.90 gears - Kor3 Brakes
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Old 04-24-2017, 10:24 PM   #6
JeromeS13

 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Paully104 View Post
Interesting, when I got my toe rod they also were missing the square washers and bolts, that's unfortunate to hear that is still an issue.
The ones that I received last week were also missing the hardware...
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Old 04-24-2017, 10:32 PM   #7
parish8

 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. Rager View Post
What exactly do you mean by top bar, upper trailing arm, upper control arm?
The highest bar. In the center. Not sure what all the names are.
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dropped a valve in the 6.2. now running a drop in rods and piston 5.3
best et 5.83@121 with the 5.3 http://www.camaro6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=465472
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Old 04-24-2017, 11:23 PM   #8
Mr. Rager
 
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You mean the upper control arm then. Looking at some photos from earlier work i did on my car i can see what you're saying about the stocker being beefy.

The two that run toward the front of the car and look like swiss cheese are the trailing arms.

The one that is behind the axle is the toe rod.

Any idea what thread size/length bolt you needed to pull the cradle up and get the rear bushing bolts in?

Still trying to figure out what i am going to buy for mine. Your feedback is appreciated.
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2017 - Black - Silverado 1500 Crew Cab - LTZ
4x4 - 5.3 - 6spd - 3.42 - black leather

Sold 8/31/2017 2017 - Silver Ice Metallic - 2SS
A8 - MRC - NPP - black leather

1996 - Sebring Silver - Trans Am - WS6
383cid - Ported heads - Bullet Cam - 4l60e - Yank SS4000 - 3.90 gears - Kor3 Brakes
Built and tuned by me 445rwhp @ 6400rpm - 11.4 @ 122mph
Collecting parts for 408 LS3 and 500rwhp.
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Old 04-25-2017, 07:27 AM   #9
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I currently torn between the non-adjustable and single adjustable. I'm not gonna see much track time with my work schedule but I will hit the mountain roads frequently. The single adjustable has better steel and the (obviously) adjustable component while being almost double the cost. The non-adjustable are tempting just for the more compliant (NVH wise) ride and cheaper cost since I'm only planning a set of BMR springs and won't need much adjustment.

Decisions decisions..... BMR, care to weigh in?
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Old 04-25-2017, 09:08 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FoCoCamaro View Post
I currently torn between the non-adjustable and single adjustable. I'm not gonna see much track time with my work schedule but I will hit the mountain roads frequently. The single adjustable has better steel and the (obviously) adjustable component while being almost double the cost. The non-adjustable are tempting just for the more compliant (NVH wise) ride and cheaper cost since I'm only planning a set of BMR springs and won't need much adjustment.

Decisions decisions..... BMR, care to weigh in?
I have all of the above in non adjustable. I do use the car pretty heavily for autoX and the occasional track day. The non adjustable will give you a great deal of improvement in feel and response, and if you dont actually NEED the adjustment, I would say save the money from the difference and put it towards another mod, or some upgraded BMR bushings elsewhere in the suspension.

my .02
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Old 04-25-2017, 10:04 AM   #11
JeromeS13

 
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I went with the non-adjustable arms.
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Old 04-25-2017, 10:41 AM   #12
Perdieu
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by locktyght View Post
I have all of the above in non adjustable. I do use the car pretty heavily for autoX and the occasional track day. The non adjustable will give you a great deal of improvement in feel and response, and if you dont actually NEED the adjustment, I would say save the money from the difference and put it towards another mod, or some upgraded BMR bushings elsewhere in the suspension.

my .02
All Great advice.... its also the way mine is set up but I just do Street and Drag racing with mine
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Old 04-25-2017, 12:25 PM   #13
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The biggest question to address on the adjustable versus non adjustable is power level and how far you plan to push the car in competition versus street time. Also future plans will weight into this. If you plan to get more serious later on with power or performance, then get the adjustable from the beginning to give yourself room to grow. If you plan to leave the car at its current level and never go above it, then the non-adjustable will be plenty
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Old 04-25-2017, 12:32 PM   #14
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For those who have had the issue with the hardware that have not been addressed yet (I know 2 people have contacted me regarding this, including the OP) give me a call and I will get the components sent out to you. We have checked through the rest of our inventory and made sure all current inventory has all of the necessary pieces.
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