[17CamaroZL1]

Originally Posted by wnta1ss

What about stability? What happens when you put bias-ply slicks on the back of a car that has radial tires on the front, and go 125mph?

My dad's 2011 Mustang got very squirrelly on the big end when he let off. He was doing mid 130s when he did it. He never tried it again after that. Maybe with a longer, heavier car, and slower speeds it doesn't affect them the same way. They don't recommend doing it, probably for that reason.

Originally Posted by 396ssrat

Here ya go. Not to jack this thread....Sorry

Very slick! Love it!!

[laynlo15]

I still think after 48 years of drag racing the higher hp stick car will break less parts since the sidewall wrinkles and doesn't shock the drive train as hard. My car reacts pretty well with the slick and my MPH have been higher then most on the fast list. I ran 11.76 at 121.32 and that was with the skinny/slick drag pack and CAI. All my 60' times were in the low 1.70's and best of 1.70. No additional weight taken out of the car as others had done. We will see how the slicks work with my Supercharger in March, I think my mph will be right up at the top of the list with the slicks since they do grow on the big end where a drag radial will not. I've run both slicks and drag radials, broke more parts with drag radial on the independent rears then with slicks. We will all have different opinions on this topic and this is mine. Slicks on the correct wheel and air pressures is very stable on the big end as it was with my 68 nova that ran 9.70's and 136 mph which is the fastest I've been in a drag car, but it went straight down the track everytime. I've not mixed radials with bias tires on the strip, so can't tell you if that is a good idea or not.

[DFW1LE]

Originally Posted by 396ssrat

Here ya go. Not to jack this thread....Sorry

Beautiful, thanks for sharing!

[cwebster]

Originally Posted by 17CamaroZL1

I talked to my dad a little during lunch and he has a 20" set of wheels that he's going to put Mickey Thompson ET Street SS tires on for the street. He's currently running MT ET Street Pros on a 15" wheel at the track. They are basically a slick with little lines here and there that go from tread depth to nothing. I guess the more they wear, the shorter the lines will get. The sidewalls wrinkle and they will dead hook with the right air pressure, launch, and track prep. He can get a 1.5 60' with his manual Mustang that pushes over 650 hp and 600 lb/ft to the tires. He said he will probably try the MT Pro Bracket which is a new radial slick they've come out with, but only comes in a 15".

So these are Drag Radial Slicks then? Is that a hybrid? Unless you're talking about a different tire, all I turned up for MT ET Street Pro was Mickey Thompson ET Street Radial Pro tires.

This begs the question: "What's the difference between "Drag Radials" or DRs and "Slicks" spoken of previously in this thread? Are traditional "Slicks" bias ply or radial in their construction? I did some Googling and reading...

I've read the article below and it sounds to me like slicks can be of either construction but the big difference is the height of the sidewall and its flexing or wrinkling.

DOT Drag Radials 101: What You Need to Know About Drag Radials - Feb 20, 2012 By Jefferson Bryant

Everywhere I look in the forum and on the Internet I'm hearing that DR's hook harder (more quickly?) but do not recover from wheel slip. Whereas slicks hook well and will occasionally slip but more easily recover.

Based on what the COPO Camaro development team has done using the 6th Gen ZL1 drive shaft and half-shafts, I feel that this drive train will handle the additional stress of launching with either DR's or Slicks. The COPO team is using racing slicks so I'm inclined to go that route. I don't intend to drive to/from the drag strip on them so they won't need to be street legal. If I decide to compete I may need a DOT tire for some clases but that's getting ahead of myself.

Chevrolet: Camaro Conquers the Quarter-Mile (2016-10-31)

As far as chassis setup, there's nothing on this ZL1 to change, so far as I know. Nor would I want to unless it could be easily reversed. I'll just go with what I have. With the eLSD and Stability Control mechanism, yaw should be kept to a minum, so long as I don't turn off all the nannies. I've tested it and confirmed that holding down the SC button for 5-secs removes no-lift shift and yaw controls in SC. The Magnetic Ride suspension will dampen out most vertical wheel movement.

Tire pressure I can log, monitor, and change as necessary. I've been running 24 PSI rear and 32 front with the stock tires. With reasonable atmospheric conditions (close to 60F, sunny, and dry), they maintain pretty good traction - lots better than street inflation pressures. I'll have to be a bit more meticulous with this using slicks or DRs.

After looking over all the recommendations in this thread, I've got 2 recommending DRs and 4 recommending slicks. Together with what I've read about the COPO Camaro, Mickey Thompson interviews, Hoosier related articles, and other racing forum articles; I'm inclined to go with a Hoosier or MT radial slick if I can get them to fit.

Now I just have to find out the smallest rim diameter I can use. The rear rotors are 14.37" dia so it would seem that adding about 1.5" for the caliper would give me a ballpark figure of just under 16". That would allow me to use a 17" rim with plenty of clearance. However, I measured the existing clearance between the highest point on the caliper and the inside of the 20" rim to be only 1.25". To me that sounds like I _might_ be able to squeeze on a 19" rim but that's about it. That doesn't leave much sidewall room for a slick, if they even make a 19" slick that would fit in my wheel wells.

Thanks again for all the feedback.

--Cal

[17CamaroZL1]

Originally Posted by cwebster

So these are Drag Radial Slicks then? Is that a hybrid? Unless you're talking about a different tire, all I turned up for MT ET Street Pro was Mickey Thompson ET Street Radial Pro tires.

This begs the question: "What's the difference between "Drag Radials" or DRs and "Slicks" spoken of previously in this thread? Are traditional "Slicks" bias ply or radial in their construction? I did some Googling and reading...

I've read the article below and it sounds to me like slicks can be of either construction but the big difference is the height of the sidewall and its flexing or wrinkling.

DOT Drag Radials 101: What You Need to Know About Drag Radials - Feb 20, 2012 By Jefferson Bryant

Everywhere I look in the forum and on the Internet I'm hearing that DR's hook harder (more quickly?) but do not recover from wheel slip. Whereas slicks hook well and will occasionally slip but more easily recover.

Based on what the COPO Camaro development team has done using the 6th Gen ZL1 drive shaft and half-shafts, I feel that this drive train will handle the additional stress of launching with either DR's or Slicks. The COPO team is using racing slicks so I'm inclined to go that route. I don't intend to drive to/from the drag strip on them so they won't need to be street legal. If I decide to compete I may need a DOT tire for some clases but that's getting ahead of myself.

Chevrolet: Camaro Conquers the Quarter-Mile (2016-10-31)

As far as chassis setup, there's nothing on this ZL1 to change, so far as I know. Nor would I want to unless it could be easily reversed. I'll just go with what I have. With the eLSD and Stability Control mechanism, yaw should be kept to a minum, so long as I don't turn off all the nannies. I've tested it and confirmed that holding down the SC button for 5-secs removes no-lift shift and yaw controls in SC. The Magnetic Ride suspension will dampen out most vertical wheel movement.

Tire pressure I can log, monitor, and change as necessary. I've been running 24 PSI rear and 32 front with the stock tires. With reasonable atmospheric conditions (close to 60F, sunny, and dry), they maintain pretty good traction - lots better than street inflation pressures. I'll have to be a bit more meticulous with this using slicks or DRs.

After looking over all the recommendations in this thread, I've got 2 recommending DRs and 4 recommending slicks. Together with what I've read about the COPO Camaro, Mickey Thompson interviews, Hoosier related articles, and other racing forum articles; I'm inclined to go with a Hoosier or MT radial slick if I can get them to fit.

Now I just have to find out the smallest rim diameter I can use. The rear rotors are 14.37" dia so it would seem that adding about 1.5" for the caliper would give me a ballpark figure of just under 16". That would allow me to use a 17" rim with plenty of clearance. However, I measured the existing clearance between the highest point on the caliper and the inside of the 20" rim to be only 1.25". To me that sounds like I _might_ be able to squeeze on a 19" rim but that's about it. That doesn't leave much sidewall room for a slick, if they even make a 19" slick that would fit in my wheel wells.

Thanks again for all the feedback.

--Cal

What he is running right now, the ET Street Pro is a drag radial that is listed under MT's DOT tires, but I noticed it has a little note, saying race only, so that has me confused. I'm guessing they have the little "tread" that they do, so you can race in a drag radial class instead of slicks.

Typically slicks have always been bias ply tires, but they are making radial slicks now, which would for sure be the way to go if you run the stock front tires. Car will be more stable that way and have less rolling resistance. I'm not sure what the performance difference would be between a radial slick and a bias slick, but I would think they'd both give very similar grip.

Typically a drag radial had always been a street legal tire with much less tread than normal, to give the most straight line grip, and still meet the DOT tread requirements. One of the benefits of a drag radial or slick over stock tires, besides the extra grip the should have in a straight line, is you don't need to heat them up as much, unless you're making ungodly power. Just turn them over a little to dust them off. Tire will last longer.

I was going to mention about the wheel size, that wheels are usually concave toward the center and are smaller than the tire diameter they are made for, so you can't just go off of the rotor size and caliper that measures 15" or so and think a 16" would fit. Sounds like you've already found that out. If there is 1.25" clearance between the wheel and rotor, we could probably go with an 18". That should leave a .25" clearance over the rotor. Tight, but should work. Probably be best to test fit or measure for clearance before buying a set though.

As for the chassis, I'd try setting the MRC to the softest setting. That should give the most weight transfer for best grip on launch and shifts. You could test between the shock settings to verify if it helps or not, but I would think that would be our best drag setting. I know some out there will do more to there suspension to really make them plant the tires on the strip, but I won't do it. I'd rather keep the handling for the curves.

[cwebster]

Originally Posted by 17CamaroZL1

What he is running right now, the ET Street Pro is a drag radial that is listed under MT's DOT tires, but I noticed it has a little note, saying race only, so that has me confused. I'm guessing they have the little "tread" that they do, so you can race in a drag radial class instead of slicks.

Typically slicks have always been bias ply tires, but they are making radial slicks now, which would for sure be the way to go if you run the stock front tires. Car will be more stable that way and have less rolling resistance. I'm not sure what the performance difference would be between a radial slick and a bias slick, but I would think they'd both give very similar grip.

Typically a drag radial had always been a street legal tire with much less tread than normal, to give the most straight line grip, and still meet the DOT tread requirements. One of the benefits of a drag radial or slick over stock tires, besides the extra grip the should have in a straight line, is you don't need to heat them up as much, unless you're making ungodly power. Just turn them over a little to dust them off. Tire will last longer.

I was going to mention about the wheel size, that wheels are usually concave toward the center and are smaller than the tire diameter they are made for, so you can't just go off of the rotor size and caliper that measures 15" or so and think a 16" would fit. Sounds like you've already found that out. If there is 1.25" clearance between the wheel and rotor, we could probably go with an 18". That should leave a .25" clearance over the rotor. Tight, but should work. Probably be best to test fit or measure for clearance before buying a set though.

Okay, thanks for filling in some of the blanks. There's a speed shop in Jacksonville but I'm not sure if they carry rims in the store. If they do I can test-fit them. I'm going to have to learn the lingo for these rim parameters before I order any online. It would suck to have to return them and wait for replacements. Weld Tech. has a 3-4 week lead time. I'll just get the rest of the measurements I need after I put the car up on the lift tomorrow.

I've been reading "Pro Stock John's" sticky thread Race Wheel and Tires in the Camaro5 forums. It seems to have more ZL1 related info, even if it is for the 5th Gen. Not much on Camaro6 for ZL1 rims/tires.

Race Star Industries:
-Currently offers 18x10.5 for the rears. Direct fit.
Weld Racing:
-Makes 17, 18 and 20" wheels that directly fit our cars.
Reproduction Corvette wheels:
-18x10.5 +53mm offset wheels fit our cars, no spacers required. These wheels are hard to find.

Looked at Weld Tech, which I assume is same as Weld Racing. Their 18x10.5 rims are $700 ea. - price seems a little steep.

5 options to select, none are labelled

1st Option: 18/10.5 - obviously rim height and width
            - Lots of other options
2nd Option: Black - okay, color - no other options
3rd Option: 7.6 Back Space (47mm offset) - no other options
4th Option: 5x120 - Not sure what this is - no other options
5th Option: High - What is this? - no other options

Originally Posted by 17CamaroZL1

As for the chassis, I'd try setting the MRC to the softest setting. That should give the most weight transfer for best grip on launch and shifts. You could test between the shock settings to verify if it helps or not, but I would think that would be our best drag setting. I know some out there will do more to there suspension to really make them plant the tires on the strip, but I won't do it. I'd rather keep the handling for the curves.

I could be wrong but I don't believe I can set MRC separately. The PTM system sets the ride according to the drive mode Tour=softer, Sport=responsive, Track=stiff. Within Track drive mode are the surface settings (wet, dry, Sport 1, Sport 2 and Race). I believe that all drive modes and submodes change engine and eLSD settings too. I've learned in my asphalt testing that launching with any PTM mode without going to custom launch control, SC bogs the motor badly. I'm not sure what setting the MRC uses when PTM (both SC and TC) is turned off completely. I do know it's like trying to tame a wild stallion. Fun but less than productive until you get good at it.

I'm going to see about getting the car on a dyno. No mods or tune, just a pull. Someone told me that Majestic Motorsports in Jacksonville will do a simple dyno pull for free. Since the car is nearly finished breaking it, it should give me an idea of how much power I'm really putting out at the wheels.

--Cal

[17CamaroZL1]

Originally Posted by cwebster

Looked at Weld Tech, which I assume is same as Weld Racing. Their 18x10.5 rims are $700 ea. - price seems a little steep.

5 options to select, none are labelled

1st Option: 18/10.5 - obviously rim height and width
            - Lots of other options
2nd Option: Black - okay, color - no other options
3rd Option: 7.6 Back Space (47mm offset) - no other options
4th Option: 5x120 - Not sure what this is - no other options
5th Option: High - What is this? - no other options

I could be wrong but I don't believe I can set MRC separately. The PTM system sets the ride according to the drive mode Tour=softer, Sport=responsive, Track=stiff. Within Track drive mode are the surface settings (wet, dry, Sport 1, Sport 2 and Race). I believe that all drive modes and submodes change engine and eLSD settings too. I've learned in my asphalt testing that launching with any PTM mode without going to custom launch control, SC bogs the motor badly. I'm not sure what setting the MRC uses when PTM (both SC and TC) is turned off completely. I do know it's like trying to tame a wild stallion. Fun but less than productive until you get good at it.

I'm going to see about getting the car on a dyno. No mods or tune, just a pull. Someone told me that Majestic Motorsports in Jacksonville will do a simple dyno pull for free. Since the car is nearly finished breaking it, it should give me an idea of how much power I'm really putting out at the wheels.

--Cal

I've not looked at any yet. Not much need yet with no car. LOL! So thanks for getting started.

Yeah...$700 a piece is more than I'd want to spend.
As for the 4th and 5th options, the 5 X 120 is the bolt pattern. 5 lugs spaced at 120mm. I'd have to do some research to know if that's what the Camaro uses, but it sounds about right. The High may be referring to a high offset wheel. If it is, that's kind of redundant, seeing as the 47 mm offset was listed in the 3rd option. Guess I should've went to their website before I replied.

You may be right about the shocks. From what I've read, the only way to use launch control and the PTM settings is in Track Mode like you said. Now if you wanted to go fully manual like you've tried a few times, you could put it in Tour mode for the softest shock setting, turn everything off if you wanted, or maybe try only turning off the traction control, and set the exhaust to the track setting. I remember reading and watching a few videos saying you can set the exhaust however you want for each mode, like if you always wanted it loud, you could set the exhaust to track for every mode. I guess I just assumed you could do the same thing with the shocks, but maybe not. That's another thing I'd like to see Chevy add, is a nice starting point for the shock settings in a Drag Mode, then give us full custom controls of the front and rear shocks separate from one another, to help us dial it in based on the conditions. They could even do that for road courses, where all 4 could be adjusted individually.

[17CamaroZL1]

OK. I went to Weld's site and the High is for the pad height, which means there should be more clearance for the brake caliper than if it was a low or medium. So the 18 x 10 or 18 x 10.5 should work for the rear.

I originally posted a possible 17 x 10 option, but I just don't think a 17 will work for us. I went and looked again and noticed they also have 15s listed for us and there is definitely no way those will work unless you change out the rear brakes.

[Blackberry]

This is all very good info and I thank you for posting your time slips. Just got mine last Friday so May won't get here soon enough. Can't wait to surprise my God dad with his 2010 Beast that he has. Keep it coming

[17ZL1]

Originally Posted by 93oh

Drag racing doesn't work that way my friend. If you run slow et in fast car the track gets "longer" et in crapper should be indicative of higher mph and you're not picking up 4 mph and knocking et down 4 tenths. Mph should be consistent he's either shifting wrong or has one missing about 50 hp.

First thing don't drive through the water go around it. Something is definitely wrong, my Cadillac Twin Turbo V6 ran 11.8 122 it was 538hp at RW. My want to get an A10.

[big dave]

There's one thing I'm absolutely sure of after reading this thread, the a10 will be a low 11 second car on street tires if it can get even remotely close to the 60' times my 5th gen ZL1 pulls. I'm sure the OP will get into the 11.5s or quicker with more seat time and better conditions...count on it.

[cwebster]

Originally Posted by Blackberry

This is all very good info and I thank you for posting your time slips. Just got mine last Friday so May won't get here soon enough. Can't wait to surprise my God dad with his 2010 Beast that he has. Keep it coming

You're welcome. I'm glad you're finding the information useful. Thank you for making your first post in my thread.

Your dad is a God? It's best not to anger the gods. Let him win the first round, at least.

Is that Warren MI, OH, or PA? At any rate, it's gonna be cold for a while yet. Congratulations on getting your new ZL1. I still can't stop staring at mine. I have to put the cover on it so I can get things done. Hope you can keep your mind occupied 'til May. Don't give into the temptation to mash that pedal. Those Eagle F1 G3 Supercar tires are rock hard when it gets below 40F, even on dry pavement. They're not much good at the track 'til it gets near 60F either.

Cheers! Welcome to the Camaro6 forum!

--Cal

[cwebster]

Originally Posted by 17ZL1

First thing don't drive through the water go around it. Something is definitely wrong, my Cadillac Twin Turbo V6 ran 11.8 122 it was 538hp at RW. My want to get an A10.

Thanks but it's been covered early in the thread. No way to get around the water box at this track.

[cwebster]

Originally Posted by big dave

There's one thing I'm absolutely sure of after reading this thread, the a10 will be a low 11 second car on street tires if it can get even remotely close to the 60' times my 5th gen ZL1 pulls. I'm sure the OP will get into the 11.5s or quicker with more seat time and better conditions...count on it.

Hear Hear!