[cellsafemode]

Originally Posted by PolynesianPowerhouse

None. Might notice something on and dyno since it is a variance, but in real world, nothing really. However if it allows more air in the box, why close it?

It turns your cold air intake into a warm air intake.

How much that matters .... would require someone do the testing ...which nobody has.

I keep the plug in.


I've got just under 100 miles on the aFe intake. Compared to the drop-in K&N filter on the stock box, it definitely has an easier time breathing now. Not surprising since the filter is huge compared to the drop-in.

I haven't had a chance to pull a 0-60 yet but i am very optimistic that it'll beat my 5.4 time i last ran.

EDIT: Just to note, I'm using a Trifecta tune. It's not customized to the CAI but it seems to be quite happy with it.

[keysersoze]

Originally Posted by PolynesianPowerhouse

Two things I've seen in person and read on here.

There is the GMPP intake post and a few are saying that they had a cel within 5 miles of install and the tune.



Personal experience, no cel with the afe on my car at all, but an install on a local guys camaro and he got a cel...bank 2 running lean.

The common thing I've seen and read for the ones with afe having a cel go off... manual (m6) car.

Not sure if it's the same for the GM intake, but so far with the afe, it's all been manuals. I wouldn't be surprised if the same with gm.

AFe is aware of it and have some solutions GTIanZ28. The guy locally has been in talks with em.

My car is the 8spd auto though.

[Glen e]

The answer about the plug:

The plug is mainly to quiet down the intake. I recommend leaving it out as you get more airflow and power from leaving it out
Best Regards,

Tyler Carrington
aFe Power | Direct Sales

[cellsafemode]

noticed this morning that there is an noticeable increase in intake noise compared to my K&N drop-in on the stock setup. Definitely not a negative noise. I can't wait to 0-60 test this thing but i've not had the opportunity yet. I can tell absolutely that something has changed. Throttle sensitivity is different compared to my K&N drop-in. I can't tell how this evidence equates to any changes in performance yet but i feel pretty confident that it is beneficial over the drop-in.

This is of course with the trifecta tune (their basic tune).

No codes or anything.

I spent about twice as much time as needed to ensure everything was tight and secure (so 30 min instead of 15 or so). The only spot I can see as potentially being an issue in super cold climates is the clean-side pcv tube. That is noticeably less tight than the stock intake's connection at the hose. I dont think it's inadequate and the "tightness" issue could be different feeling due to the different materials used (metal vs oem plastic). Just potentially the weakest seal assuming the bottom sound conducting tube was installed correctly.

[mvpttk]

This is for 2016 or 2017 V6 Camaro!

What you all think?

aFe Momentum GT Pro 5R VS GEN 6 LGX 3.6L GMPP INTAKE With Tune.

Which one is better?
What is Tune?
Do i need Tune?
Which one should i go with?

i am asking this because i just aFe Momentum GT Pro 5R but did not install yet.
so which one should i go with AFE or GM Performance intake.

Thank You

[cellsafemode]

Originally Posted by mvpttk

This is for 2016 or 2017 V6 Camaro!

What you all think?

aFe Momentum GT Pro 5R VS GEN 6 LGX 3.6L GMPP INTAKE With Tune.

Which one is better?
What is Tune?
Do i need Tune?
Which one should i go with?

i am asking this because i just aFe Momentum GT Pro 5R but did not install yet.
so which one should i go with AFE or GM Performance intake.

Thank You

You dont seem to need a tune to avoid CES lights with the aFe unit.

Would it benefit to get one? Probably. But the gist is that it's not going to throw codes if you dont get one right away.

The GM Perf intake seems to cause codes to be thrown.


Why is this an issue? Who knows when the GM Perf intake is going to get it's CARB cert and until then your warranty saving GM tune is not available to anyone living in CARB states.

If that's not an issue for you cuz you can just get it tuned without a dealer doing it using some other tuning service, then there's no point in getting the GM Perf intake either. It looks like they did barely the minimal amount of modification to the stock V6 intake to shove a cone filter in the box area and then said we're done - lets charge like 400 for 80% of what already exists in the stock unit.

tl:dr: if warranty is an issue, get the GM Perf intake, if you're in a CARB state (one of 14) then you'll have to wait or risk the very real potential of throwing CES codes.

If warranty isn't an issue, get the aFe intake. The build quality is great, it looks good and it does what it's supposed to without throwing codes. Even without a tune.

[PolynesianPowerhouse]

Originally Posted by cellsafemode

It turns your cold air intake into a warm air intake.

How much that matters .... would require someone do the testing ...which nobody has.

I keep the plug in.


I've got just under 100 miles on the aFe intake. Compared to the drop-in K&N filter on the stock box, it definitely has an easier time breathing now. Not surprising since the filter is huge compared to the drop-in.

I haven't had a chance to pull a 0-60 yet but i am very optimistic that it'll beat my 5.4 time i last ran.

EDIT: Just to note, I'm using a Trifecta tune. It's not customized to the CAI but it seems to be quite happy with it.

small thing to touch on.

cold the opposite is hot.

cool the opposite is warm.

the term COLD AIR is a marketing gimmick. its been that way since the sport compact craze of the 90's, 2000's, and current. that's why companies SELL COLD air intakes, but never HOT AIR intakes. and just because one is called a COLD air, its doesn't mean the air will be actually COLD.

even if you go back to the first fast and furious film, Jesse told Dom, Brian had a "cool air intake"...

the real term for intakes are short ram, and long ram.... kinda like headers. there are short and long style ones. both offer power gains at different rpm ranges. long is usually low and mid, to where shorter ones are usually mid to high. manipulation of tube diameter can change velocity to have some gains down low, or up high.

the cool/cold air intake or long ram usually put the actual filter outside of the engine bay, usually in the bumper. theres a few systems like this, because people fear running into puddles, which has shown, unless you mindlessly submerge a filter at WOT, you shouldn't even near seeing hydrolock.

the warm/hot air intakes or short rams put the filter in the engine bay. most didn't have a heat sheild, some did... some may be in a box. even stock.

but as with marketing, COLD sounds better than WARM or HOT.... so now every intake is COLD AIR. even ones with crappy heat shields that don't fully shield heat. and some with no heat shields at all!!

however, in real world terms and testing, once a car starts moving, airflow comes in from various entries....the radiator, the cracks around the hood, headlights, any vents, etc... so temps under the hood, especially on mostly stock cars... is very close to the ambient temps outside the car. so truthfully, any heat...moreso when the car is stationary, that will enter is gonna be negligible. its along the terms of putting one drop of chocolate syrup in a full glass of milk. you can call it chocolate milk, but its not really gonna taste or appear like it.


if ya or anyone wanna do testing on this... theres a simple cheap process, one of the LX guys taught us...and it works.

https://www.lelandwest.com/auto-tech...take-test1.cfm

I;ve done it on my charger, and last Camaro, because everyone was claiming the rotofab was inferior to the CAI because the CAI had shiny heat reflective material and a lid. which at the end of testing on the LFX, there was only a 1-3 degrees difference in ambient temp outside vs under the hood. I used the DASH LOGIC to monitor the ambient temps vs the IAT. there was never really much variance unless the car was sitting in traffic. while moving, the temps were nearly identical.

so the plug isn't gonna magically turn it into a WARM air from a COOL air. do what ya comfy with by all means.

[cellsafemode]

simple check can be made to see how the plug effects IAT's. Just log some with an odb unit.

I dont have anything at the moment to do that. Gotta buy the pro version of Torque or some similar software that can work with bluetooth odb readers.

[Gen6Rs]

Originally Posted by thatguyfreddy

Well, that was fast. I will have to ask them once I decide on doing this. I assume the same applies to exhaust system upgrades?

Honestly, I just assumed anything I do will void EVERYTHING. We shall see.

Thanks!

As far exhaust goes, I had a little rattle on startup, turned out to be the exhahst hanger in front by the transmission crossmember. I changed the axle back, didnt tough it up there but they still still took care of it said they should charge me. I would have fought it because I didnt mess with anything up there.

[GTIanZ28]

Originally Posted by cellsafemode

So you have a hose / connection loose between the maf and the throttle body. possibly including the maf sensor connector itself.

You were absolutely correct!

I have resolved the Code for running lean. I took the intake out and checked every connection, tightened everything, and then re-installed.

Somewhere something wasn't installed properly and the fault lies entirely with me. The code is now gone and has not returned for about 2 weeks.

I think that I owe AFE an apology.

[PolynesianPowerhouse]

Originally Posted by cellsafemode

simple check can be made to see how the plug effects IAT's. Just log some with an odb unit.

I dont have anything at the moment to do that. Gotta buy the pro version of Torque or some similar software that can work with bluetooth odb readers.

I've gotten the same results on the last 3 cars, pretty sure it'll be the same on the 4th. Just the way cars are desinged.

Pleased with the results so far. Maybe dabble with some porting mods this winter soon along with finishing out my suspension.

[bdar66]

Originally Posted by thatguyfreddy

Well, that was fast. I will have to ask them once I decide on doing this. I assume the same applies to exhaust system upgrades?

Honestly, I just assumed anything I do will void EVERYTHING. We shall see.

Thanks!

the info i got from flowmaster directly said that modding parts of the car only void that specific part of the warranty unless actully proven to have cause the problem at hand. some dealers are finicky though and some really dont care and some times encourage it. had a friend that had his clutch replaced on his gli and they convinced him to put a stage 3 in his car.

[mvpttk]

This is for 2016 or 2017 V6 Camaro!

I am in Illinois

What you all think?

aFe Momentum GT Pro 5R VS GEN 6 LGX 3.6L GMPP INTAKE With Tune.

Which one is better?
What is Tune?
Do i need Tune?
Which one should i go with?

i am asking this because i just aFe Momentum GT Pro 5R but did not install yet.
so which one should i go with AFE or GM Performance intake.

Thank You

[cellsafemode]

Originally Posted by mvpttk

This is for 2016 or 2017 V6 Camaro!

I am in Illinois

What you all think?

aFe Momentum GT Pro 5R VS GEN 6 LGX 3.6L GMPP INTAKE With Tune.

Which one is better?
What is Tune?
Do i need Tune?
Which one should i go with?

i am asking this because i just aFe Momentum GT Pro 5R but did not install yet.
so which one should i go with AFE or GM Performance intake.

Thank You

there aren't any engine changes between 2016/2017 for the V6 so any intake stuff made for one will be fine for the other.

GM intake needs a tune. aFe's doesn't require one.
Would a tune work better than stock ? Sure. But no codes will be thrown on the aFe if you dont. Unlike the GM one it seems.