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Old 12-13-2016, 03:49 PM   #29
SquawkVFR
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Originally Posted by enzia35 View Post
If you don't haggle, you're leaving money on the table.
.

Bingo. If you don't want to negotiate, that's your money to throw away. Some people are just to timid to negotiate or don't want to take the time to do it. It's because of these people it makes it easier for those of us that want to negotiate and "play hard ball" to get a better deal because the salesman just sold a car yesterday to some sucker for sticker price.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ian @ Weseloh Chevrolet View Post
With all due respect this is the quickest way to piss your salesman off, especially if you straight up lie about a trade in.
.

I give a tiny rats ass if I piss off a car salesman. If he don't sell cars his family don't eat. If I don't buy a car my family still eats. So get pissed off all you want. There's another dealership right down the street pal.

I once left a dealership after the sales manager wouldn't make a counter offer on an offer we made on a Nissan Titan. So we left. On the way out the door the SM asked as us "where'd you get those numbers?" I just shrugged on the way out the door. The salesman caught us in the parking lot after we got in our truck and asked if we wanted to come back in and talk about it some more. I asked him if he had a counter offer, he said no, so we left.

The next day we went to another city and for about $100.00 less (taxes, it was a different state) bought a Nissan Titan, with the next best package upgrade...

***A few weeks later I stopped by that other dealership and showed that sales manager the sales paper work from my new truck. He said "I don't have time for this." and walked off.

Just this year a friend of mine went to Jacksonville Fl to buy a new C7 Corvette, he found the same identical Corvette in Ohio $4500 cheaper and told the guy if didn't match it he'd go to Ohio. Why not? Road trip? Hell yeah! The guy in Jacksonville matched it.

Car salespeople work on commission so why would they help you lower their income? That makes no sense at all. That would be like an airline pilot standing at the door handing out money out of his pocket to every passenger as they boarded the plane. They will take every advantage of you. You have to do your own research and negotiate the hell out of buying a car.

Whoever said you can't really negotiate on new cars is wrong. You can do better than manufactureres SUGGESTED retail price. Don't fall for that shit. No matter what KBB says or Google or what you think the market is or your friends or telling you can always negotiate.

If you do your research, shop around, be patient and use your head you can get a deal on a car. If they only make a few dollars on a car, that's more than zero dollars. They try and make you feel like they have you at a disadvantage, but you always have the advantage. It's your money, they want your money, it's up to you to make THEM earn it.

My 2 cents.
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Old 12-13-2016, 04:17 PM   #30
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I'm 33 years old. I've bought my fair share of cars. Mostly used, but a few new cars. I've haggled and bargained when buying used cars, but I don't understand how to haggle for a new car.

I custom ordered my 2010 Chevy camaro SS in 2008, and took delivery in 2009. It was right in the beginning of the 5th gen camaro craze, when dealers were charging $10,000 markups, and people were paying them. I paid MSRP for my camaro. That seemed fair, since it was a very, very high demand car in the fall of 2009.

I bought a new 2009 ford focus in 09 as well. When I started "negotiations" the salesman threw out a price $3,000 below invoice, and then added on some incentives. I drove out of the dealer with a brand new car that I paid $13,500 for, including tax/tag/title, and the MSRP was $16,800. I didn't haggle. I just said OK. Did I get swindled? IDK.

I'm looking at a new 2016 ford fiesta now as a daily commuter car. The MSRP is $17,700. Once again, the salesman's starting price is low at $14,200. Truecar, KBB, USAA, etc, all say that the "fair market price" for this car is $15,500 with the options it has equipped.

How do I haggle with this guy? He's already cutting me a deal, right?
The lower the price the less room for negotiation. Its a 2016, I'd offer him 13,5 and and stay firm. If he says no, go home. It'll be there tomorrow and he'll still sell it for 14,2, maybe even 14.
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Old 12-15-2016, 12:10 PM   #31
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Originally Posted by Malice View Post
I'm looking at a new 2016 ford fiesta now as a daily commuter car. The MSRP is $17,700. Once again, the salesman's starting price is low at $14,200. Truecar, KBB, USAA, etc, all say that the "fair market price" for this car is $15,500 with the options it has equipped.

How do I haggle with this guy? He's already cutting me a deal, right?
This post is over a month old and I don't see any follow-up responses but, in my experience the new Spark is a better car. I bought a new 2016 1LT with auto in July for $10995 with the 20% offer.

All power equipment and new tech. It also gets very positive reviews.
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Old 12-15-2016, 04:27 PM   #32
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This post is over a month old and I don't see any follow-up responses
There were 6 Posts since Monday before yours!
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Old 12-15-2016, 05:33 PM   #33
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There were 6 Posts since Monday before yours!
Alright, which one of you offended him...
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Old 12-15-2016, 05:43 PM   #34
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Originally Posted by Ian @ Weseloh Chevrolet View Post
With all due respect this is the quickest way to piss your salesman off, especially if you straight up lie about a trade in.
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Originally Posted by deddmoneydave View Post
This advice gets posted everywhere, but does nothing in terms of getting you a better deal. They own their car for a certain amount, and your car is worth a certain amount, splitting up the process doesn't change the bottom line of what the transaction will net the store. If you negotiate a phenomenal deal on their car before adding the trade, all that means is they will have to hold firm at what they truly appraise your car to be worth, without over allowing. So unless you're worried about getting confused during the negotiating process, save yourself the time and do it all at once.
Always negotiate the new purchase first. Because of 'one price' dealerships in many cases you have no choice since the trade is your only variable.

And who cares about pissing off sales people?

There are hundreds of ways to work a deal but my preference is the one where I spend the least amount possible.
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Old 12-15-2016, 06:30 PM   #35
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Originally Posted by 16Panther View Post
Always negotiate the new purchase first. Because of 'one price' dealerships in many cases you have no choice since the trade is your only variable.

And who cares about pissing off sales people?

There are hundreds of ways to work a deal but my preference is the one where I spend the least amount possible.
We're people too man, I don't go out of my way to piss people off at their jobs.

It's crazy how many people come in and grind over $100 but pay full price for furniture or buy a $7 beer at a bar LOL
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Old 12-15-2016, 07:25 PM   #36
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Originally Posted by Ian @ Weseloh Chevrolet View Post
We're people too man, I don't go out of my way to piss people off at their jobs.

It's crazy how many people come in and grind over $100 but pay full price for furniture or buy a $7 beer at a bar LOL
Salesmen are people, who knew?
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Old 12-15-2016, 07:58 PM   #37
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Originally Posted by Ian @ Weseloh Chevrolet View Post
We're people too man, I don't go out of my way to piss people off at their jobs.

It's crazy how many people come in and grind over $100 but pay full price for furniture or buy a $7 beer at a bar LOL
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Originally Posted by jrhagen View Post
Salesmen are people, who knew?
Just like everybody else...
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Old 12-15-2016, 09:49 PM   #38
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Originally Posted by Ian @ Weseloh Chevrolet View Post
We're people too man, I don't go out of my way to piss people off at their jobs.

It's crazy how many people come in and grind over $100 but pay full price for furniture or buy a $7 beer at a bar LOL
$100/$7=12 beers with tip.

You get in the way of that and don't see how people get pissed off?
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Old 12-16-2016, 07:05 AM   #39
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Originally Posted by 16Panther View Post
Always negotiate the new purchase first. Because of 'one price' dealerships in many cases you have no choice since the trade is your only variable.

And who cares about pissing off sales people?

There are hundreds of ways to work a deal but my preference is the one where I spend the least amount possible.
Once again, your preference of withholding the trade until the new car is negotiated doesnt help you spend the least amount possible. One at a time, both at the same time, it doesn't change what your vehicle is actually acvd for, or what they own theirs for. It just means they wont be able to show you a fake overallowance on your trade.
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Old 12-16-2016, 11:23 AM   #40
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Originally Posted by deddmoneydave View Post
Once again, your preference of withholding the trade until the new car is negotiated doesnt help you spend the least amount possible. One at a time, both at the same time, it doesn't change what your vehicle is actually acvd for, or what they own theirs for. It just means they wont be able to show you a fake overallowance on your trade.
There may be many voices in my head but I don't recognize your's. You don't know what you don't know and haven't lived my experiences.

You don't see eliminating the fake over allowance as valuable information? Your job ought to be to look out for your best interest. If you can work multivariable deals on the fly more power to you but you're better off if you can limit the moving parts to get down to the delta.

This notion that you have any idea what they own theirs for is also pretty silly. There are dealer, beginning and end of month incentives and so on that go on behind the scenes.

If you're looking to trade you need to do your homework on what your car is actually worth. A couple years ago I was looking to trade in a vehicle with a high resale value. The dealership went out over 500 miles to find the cheapest one they could find at an auction to compare value to as if Indiana (3 states away) is part of the Minneapolis market.

The dealership's job is to make money. They're going to come up with all kinds of BS about how your vehicle is worth less than you think. When that happens you back out of the new purchase unless they find more for your trade.

There always disclaimers. My cars are well kept, low miles and don't need any work. If you're trading in a turd its a bit more difficult to be taken seriously.

Lastly, trading in sucks. I lease whenever possible to avoid the hassle.

In my region new car dealerships are getting close to monopolies. One example is the Morrie's group. If you look at a car at Morrie's dealership A and someone does a 30 second walk around trade appraisal it gets entered into their common database. You may not even have paid attention because you weren't interested in anything they had to offer.

Then, when you go to Morrie's dealership B and find the car you are interested in they lookup your car in their database and try to tell you that it had just been appraised so they cannot appraise it again. Of course, that first appraisal is less than wholesale.

Pretty slimy.
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You're not your job. You're not how much money you have in the bank. You're not the car you drive. You're not the contents of your wallet. You're not your f@rking khakis. You're the all-singing, all-dancing crap of the world.

- Chuck Palahniuk
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Old 12-16-2016, 12:44 PM   #41
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Originally Posted by Ian @ Weseloh Chevrolet View Post
We're people too man, I don't go out of my way to piss people off at their jobs.

It's crazy how many people come in and grind over $100 but pay full price for furniture or buy a $7 beer at a bar LOL
Ian, I negotiate on almost everything - sometimes I have to drink cheap beer!
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Old 12-17-2016, 12:54 PM   #42
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There may be many voices in my head but I don't recognize your's. You don't know what you don't know and haven't lived my experiences.

Ive been inside your head all along panther, we are one you and I
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