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#15 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2011 1LT Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Crestline, CA
Posts: 3,029
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I once bought a car, and had a trade- in to offer.
I made an offer on the car they were selling... the salesman "countered" with a price $500 lower than that. When discussing trade- in value for my old car, I gave him my selling price: He countered with an offer $500 ABOVE what I was asking. As my astonished self completed the paperwork, the salesman mentioned that this was his last day working at the lot. His brother- in- law was the owner of the lot, and was a real jerk, according the the salesman. This was his way of "stickin' it to him," and it worked out very nicely for me. If I ever get to "haggle" that way again, it'll be just fine with me. |
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#16 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2010 Camaro SGM 1LT M6 Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Rochester, NY
Posts: 1,630
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You can't really haggle new cars alot. They have a price on them and since they are new that price is the starting number. Like you said there are always incentives and discounts here and there, you just have to know to ask about them. The space to haggle on a new car is your trade in.
Always work out the deal on the new car before you even mention a trade in. They might ask you before the deal is done but just deflect the question. Your best bargaining tool is the ability to walk away. Most people shop for cars when they need a car. Wrong move. Always shop well before you actually need it and make sure they know you're not desperate. Then the pressure is on them to actually sell a car. For example, the GM dealer near me was running some great deals on their cars during October because of some Quota they were trying to meet. This is the same dealer I got my 2016 Cruze Limited at last year for my winter beater so they know me pretty well. I walked in and told them I wanted a 2017 Cruze in a different color and with more options. They found one on their lot, I test drove it, liked it, and made them an offer on it. They said no, so I walked out got back in my other cruze and started to drive away. Needless to say I didnt make it out of the parking lot before they were calling me lol. Walked away that day with an upgrade from what I had without putting a single penny down and maintaining the same payment per month in the term time. Didn't need the car and that was my biggest bargaining point.
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Arkentect's Build Thread!! - UPSTATE C5 MEMBER
2010 SGM M6 1LT - SOLD Current - 2009 C6 Corvette Z51 |
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#17 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2016 F150 Join Date: May 2014
Location: Iowa
Posts: 2,196
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My brother was offered 21k for his 4Runner and a new Sienna for 39k which has an MSRP of 41 I believe.. He ended up getting 25k for his Runner and got the Sienna for 37.5k.. That's 5.5k swing.. Good chunk of money. Depends on the dealer, but sometimes you really want to negotiate. There is enough information out there for you to see if you're getting a fair deal.
I didn't negotiate on my F150, but I did get 13k off and was satisfied with that. |
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#18 |
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2017 HyperBlue 2SS
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Didn't need to haggle on the price of my new Camaro. Dealer discount along with red tag special was in line with what I was expecting to pay (within fair market value). Did haggle a bit on my trade in. Back and forth a few times but finally got my asking price. They still turned around and sold my trade in for a fair profit after only about two weeks.
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http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=30755 2010 IBM 2LT RS......Traded for..... 2012 IBM 2SS RS......Traded for..... 2017 HBM 2SS |
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#19 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: '16 Garnet Red 1SS Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: College Station, TX
Posts: 3,449
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If you don't haggle, you're leaving money on the table.
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'16 Camaro 1SS
'18 Miata GT Gone: '01 Camaro, '14 Camaro, '90 Miata |
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#20 |
![]() ![]() Drives: 2016 1SS, 2017 JKU Wrangler Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: San Diego
Posts: 876
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With all due respect this is the quickest way to piss your salesman off, especially if you straight up lie about a trade in.
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SLO 1SS - sold
1SS MRC NPP 6MT 2018 Ram Rebel 4x4 5.7 |
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#21 |
![]() Drives: 5th gen Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: FL
Posts: 81
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This advice gets posted everywhere, but does nothing in terms of getting you a better deal. They own their car for a certain amount, and your car is worth a certain amount, splitting up the process doesn't change the bottom line of what the transaction will net the store. If you negotiate a phenomenal deal on their car before adding the trade, all that means is they will have to hold firm at what they truly appraise your car to be worth, without over allowing. So unless you're worried about getting confused during the negotiating process, save yourself the time and do it all at once.
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#22 |
![]() Drives: V8 permagrin Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: here
Posts: 618
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I've been lucky because I rarely purchase the "it" car. I often look for a car a dealer really wants gone then the best price is usually upfront. It also depends on the market. Small markets you might have to haggle, large markets like DC the competition is fierce so they usually offer you the best price up front.
In your case I think you're getting a very good deal. I often price out the car I want with 12k on KBB and see pricing. If I'm below that then I know you're saving some depreciation and the deal is good. (a 16 SE with auto and no other options 12k is worth 13k per KBB) I should also mention I never, ever trade. That is where you'd negotiate a bit. Pay cash and set an amount you'll pay & don't budge. Works every time. |
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#23 |
![]() Drives: 5th gen Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: FL
Posts: 81
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Paying cash is a at BEST neutral in terms of haggling power, it usually means less revenue generated for the store because F&I isn't making any money and they take that into consideration. Frankly I'm bewildered people still think that gives them negotiating leverage.
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#24 |
![]() Drives: 2015 Camaro 2SS/RS/1LE Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Las Vegas
Posts: 29
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Dont try to negotiate a '17 1LE. I was just told they had a few inquiries on it so the price is set with no discounts.
Ok, enjoy. Hope someone is actually going to buy it because I would have. |
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#25 |
![]() Drives: '82 Mustang GT Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 10
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The 2016 Mustang GT I purchased, brand new, was offered at $28,9xx. Great deal but since I'm a buyer/procurement specialist in my career, I will almost always take the opportunity to negotiate when it's a personal purchase. Was able to negotiate the price down to $27,400.
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#26 | |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: Race Car Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Seffner, FL
Posts: 6,226
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Quote:
If you do your research, you can find what a Dealer pays for a car. You can get it at that price if you work smart (Dealers will still make money) depending on the make of the car |
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#27 | |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: Race Car Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Seffner, FL
Posts: 6,226
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Quote:
Also, as someone else said, know when to get up & leave. Last time I did that, I had the Salesman, Manager & Owner of the Dealership calling me and offering me better & better deals! |
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#28 |
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Banned
Drives: Camaro Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: USA
Posts: 2,701
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Haggling and playing dealerships against each other boils down to what your time is worth. I have purchased many vehicles from the same salesman at the same dealership for the past 15 years or so. I tell him exactly what I want, he tells me exactly what the price is. If that sounds like a good deal I buy it. Done. Time is money.
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