[cwebster]

Originally Posted by Z06Joe

I didn't read each post so I'm not sure if anyone mentioned this, but did anyone mention the use of a weight distribution hitch? I use to have a 24 foot enclosed trailer and pulled it just fine with my 1500 Silverado. I found that distribution hitch to make a huge difference with not only balancing my load and taking some of the weight off of the hitch, but it also helped with stability when towing. If you haven't already looked into this, I suggest you get one.

I will look into this further. Thanks for the suggestion and links.

Originally Posted by Z06Joe

In addition I would use ratcheting tie downs with axle straps.

Here are the links to everything I mentioned:

Weight Distribution Hitch: https://www.etrailer.com/faq-weightdistribution.aspx

Tie Downs: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g7974/overview/

Axle Straps: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g7966/overview/

The tie-downs you linked above have integral axle straps. How are these typically used on a Camaro? Not having straight axles, the only suspension component I could think of to use them on would be a control arm. I'm not sure that's the best place, though. I'm thinking they could also be threaded through rims, as long as they were pulling directly forward or backward.

[MuhThugga]

Originally Posted by cwebster

You probably meant 3700 lbs on your Camaro unless you stripped everything out of it for racing. Still, 5000 lb pull is a lot lighter than what I'll be pulling - est. 8000 lbs. Did your Silverado labor? Was it unstable - swaying? Hard to stop? Exactly what did you hate about pulling your load? I'm leaning toward moving up to a 3/4 but I may have to use the 1/2 ton before I move up.

I've pulled a car on an open trailer with my '08 Silverado 1500 before, and it didn't have a problem so long as I kept the speeds at around 60 MPH. After that, she would start to sway. However, this is a regular cab, standard bed truck, so the wheelbase is working against me.

For you, I would move up to a 2500 series gasoline truck. You can go diesel, but they are more expensive to buy, maintain, and repair. The reason for stepping up to the 2500 series, even if you go with an early-2000s variant, is for the stronger transmission and suspension, and depending upon the year, that should be a 4L80E or a 6L90E. You should be able to find a truck with an integrated trailer brake controller. I would not attempt an enclosed trailer with my '08 1500. I sure as hell would not attempt it with a 1990 K1500.

[Z06Joe]

I used them when tying down my Z06. I went right around the control arms and had no issues what so ever.

[cwebster]

Originally Posted by MuhThugga

I've pulled a car on an open trailer with my '08 Silverado 1500 before, and it didn't have a problem so long as I kept the speeds at around 60 MPH. After that, she would start to sway. However, this is a regular cab, standard bed truck, so the wheelbase is working against me.

For you, I would move up to a 2500 series gasoline truck. You can go diesel, but they are more expensive to buy, maintain, and repair. The reason for stepping up to the 2500 series, even if you go with an early-2000s variant, is for the stronger transmission and suspension, and depending upon the year, that should be a 4L80E or a 6L90E. You should be able to find a truck with an integrated trailer brake controller. I would not attempt an enclosed trailer with my '08 1500. I sure as hell would not attempt it with a 1990 K1500.

I've been looking around online at 2500 (3/4 ton) pickups with crew cab. Nothing from 2006-2012 near me less than about $15K. I wasn't planning on spending that much. while I like having the crew cab and no-work 3/4 ton, I may just see about upgrading the drive train and brakes on my 1500, then adding the brake controller. Apparently, there are a lot of people doing this kind of swap. The extended cab/long bed has quite a long wheel base and has always been rock solid at high speeds.

Thanks for the info.

--Cal

[cwebster]

Originally Posted by Z06Joe

I used them when tying down my Z06. I went right around the control arms and had no issues what so ever.

I'll start with those when I get my 20 ft enclosed trailer. Thanks!

--Cal

[Z06Joe]

I had a 24 ft enclosed trailer. The extra room up front really helped with staging the car so the weight was balanced as best as possible.

Also when tying down the rear of the car, cross the straps. Meaning take the left strap and hook it to the right side d-ring in the floor and vice versa with the right side. Now some folks will say that's stupid, but from personal experience I find it to be very beneficial.

A buddy of mine just went straight back with his straps and unfortunately one trip one came off and hit the side of his car scratching it pretty good. Also crossing the straps, IMHO, helps stabilize the car that much more.