[cwebster]

Does anyone on the list trailer their cars to road tracks?
What type trailer do you use?
What type truck to you haul it with?

[The Trailer]

I'm looking at getting a white 2017 Diamond Cargo 8.5x24 TA 5200 from a nearby dealer. I told them what I'd be using it for and the owner said their 8.5x24 trailer could handle it. I did some web searching for specs but I'm not sure if this will safely haul my ZL1 to and from the track. To be honest, it's a little confusing how they rate the models. I'm sure they're rated based on the suspension / springs but I don't want to buy it and find out later it's unstable.

Specs

Photo of a silver one


From the spec charts it looks like the max gross weight (6800 lbs) is under the combined trailer+ZL1 weight.

trailer weight (3600 lbs) + ZL1 curb weight (3880 lbs) = 7400

[The Truck]

I have and old 1990 C1500 extended cab, long bed pickup with a towing package. Bought it new in 1990 but it's seen better days in its 500,000+ mile life so far. It originally came with a 4.3 L V6 but I'm having a 4.7 L (small block 350) V8 put in it. the heaviest thing I've hauled with the V6 was a full cord of firewood, half in the bed and half on a 8 ft utility trailer. It was very stable in this configuration. I didn't drive it very fast, though.

What about brakes? I'm pretty sure the trailer doesn't have its own brakes. The guy that's putting in the motor for me says that a brake pad upgrade and rotor shave should handle it.

Thanks for any insights you guys can offer.

--Cal

[KLR ZL1]

The trailer in the pic should work just fine as long as there are good tiedowns in the floor and remember you will have to climb out the window once the car is in the traler. The truck to pull that traler should be a 3/4 ton atleast. That's a lot of weight for a 1/2 ton.

[ericedelman]

I trailered my 2010 Camaro to the track for a few years on a Featherlite open trailer that I pulled with a 2004 3/4 ton Suburban. Probably 1000 pounds less than what you are planning to pull. Pulled great, I could set the cruise at 75 and it hardly ever downshifted. That truck had the 8.1L and the 4 speed auto.

Trailers have brakes, you'll need an electronic brake controller added to your truck. The trailer dealer should be able to help you with this.

Your closed trailer, car, and things that you take to the track is going to weigh 8000 pounds. You'll probably get tempted to add cabinets, extra tools, a tire rack for spare wheels and tires, etc..... Would I want to pull that with a 25 year old 1/2 ton pickup? Nope. And it's probably over the tow rating of that truck. Moving the load isn't the problem, stopping the truck and trailer is the problem.

I live in Syracuse, NY and went to Watkins Glenn, Pocono, NJMP, VIR, Summit Point, Lime Rock, etc.... Then I got sick of loading and unloading the trailer, so I went back to just driving the car to the track, driving at 8/10th's, and having a nice day. Only time it didn't work out was this summer when I blew a motor, but I got a ride home with my father who was at the track day with me, and had the car picked up by AAA.

Originally Posted by cwebster

Does anyone on the list trailer their cars to road tracks?
What type trailer do you use?
What type truck to you haul it with?


What about brakes? I'm pretty sure the trailer doesn't have its own brakes. The guy that's putting in the motor for me says that a brake pad upgrade and rotor shave should handle it.

Thanks for any insights you guys can offer.

--Cal

[Callaway Chris]

Originally Posted by cwebster

Does anyone on the list trailer their cars to road tracks?
What type trailer do you use?
What type truck to you haul it with?..but I'm having a 4.7 L (small block 350) V8 put in it. the heaviest thing I've hauled with the V6 was a full cord of firewood, half in the bed and half on a 8 ft utility trailer. It was very stable in this configuration. I didn't drive it very fast, though.

What about brakes? I'm pretty sure the trailer doesn't have its own brakes. The guy that's putting in the motor for me says that a brake pad upgrade and rotor shave should handle it.

Thanks for any insights you guys can offer.

--Cal

For the trailer, it looks like they have electric brakes on each axle, as with other trailers would/should. If not, be sure to up your life insurance, as you WILL need it.

Think you meant 5.7L for the new engine, which is fine, if there's enough gearing. Which may not be the case, given it was a 6 cyl, originally. And then there is cooling for engine and trans. I could go on and on. Been pulling a trailer for 15 years - open, enclosed, w/ trucks and SUVs. Best one by far was enclosed, pulled by the diesel Excursion

[cwebster]

Originally Posted by KLR ZL1

The trailer in the pic should work just fine as long as there are good tiedowns in the floor and remember you will have to climb out the window once the car is in the traler. The truck to pull that traler should be a 3/4 ton atleast. That's a lot of weight for a 1/2 ton.

Thanks. I didn't think about getting out... should probably have a narrow stool or something on the left side so I don't scratch my paint getting out.

I was hoping I could get it done with a few upgrades to my 1/2 ton but the more I'm reading, the more I hear that 3/4 ton is best. Is the biggest factor the load on the axle and drive shaft? Springs only come into play for loads in the bed and tongue weight. I may have to sell my 1990 C1500 and my 2005 Colorado to upgrade to a good, used 3/4 ton.

[stella16]

I was towing a big wake boat with a Dodge 1/2 ton hemi. I averaged 9 mpg. I then upgraded to a 2007 Ford F250 and averaged 15 while towing. It handled hills and mountains wonderfully.
If I buy again, I will look into a 1 ton. My buddy just bought a new 3500 non-dually chevy for cheaper than a similarly loaded new 2500. It's very nice :-)

but I now currently pull a boat with a 1959 Chevy Apache 4x4 with a modified 383 stroker and a 700r4..........it's more fun
just food for thought

[snackbar64]

Inside this 4600 lb trailer is a 5000 lb pick up truck. I have a GMC Sierra 1500 and it pulls it just fine with an 11,200 lb towing capacity and even switches to 4 cylinders when cruising on the highway. Absolutely unbelievable. It is an 8.5 X 20 anto hauler. Save yourself some money if possible by considering the shorter trailer.

I am pulling this from Texas to Cali in a few weeks. A Camaro will fit just fine, but I have no idea how you get out. Climbing out the window isn't an option for me.

[cwebster]

Originally Posted by ericedelman

I trailered my 2010 Camaro to the track for a few years on a Featherlite open trailer that I pulled with a 2004 3/4 ton Suburban. Probably 1000 pounds less than what you are planning to pull. Pulled great, I could set the cruise at 75 and it hardly ever downshifted. That truck had the 8.1L and the 4 speed auto.

Trailers have brakes, you'll need an electronic brake controller added to your truck. The trailer dealer should be able to help you with this.

Looking at some other trailer makers, like TrailerShowroom.com, they're listing them as having brakes on both axles. That makes me feel better. How does an electronic brake controller work? How does it know how much pressure to apply?

Originally Posted by ericedelman

Your closed trailer, car, and things that you take to the track is going to weigh 8000 pounds. You'll probably get tempted to add cabinets, extra tools, a tire rack for spare wheels and tires, etc..... Would I want to pull that with a 25 year old 1/2 ton pickup? Nope. And it's probably over the tow rating of that truck. Moving the load isn't the problem, stopping the truck and trailer is the problem.

Yeah, I see what you mean. I'm just trying to ease the budget burden. I may have to sell/trade up to go with a 3/4 ton truck.

What do you think in terms of trailer length. I was originally looking at a 8.5' x 24' but at 15.8 ft, the ZL1 would fit in a 20ft model too. Just worried about room for the extra stuff later, like tool box, compressor, generator, and tires.

As for weight, I should be okay with any tandem 5200 axle model. For tandem axle trailers, that's 5,200 lbs per axl or 10,400 lbs max gross vehicle weight. Looks like the 20-24 ft models weigh 6200-6600 lbs. So I guess I'll be okay with car, trailer, tools, compressor, generator, spare tires; as far as what the trailer can carry.

Originally Posted by ericedelman

I live in Syracuse, NY and went to Watkins Glenn, Pocono, NJMP, VIR, Summit Point, Lime Rock, etc.... Then I got sick of loading and unloading the trailer, so I went back to just driving the car to the track, driving at 8/10th's, and having a nice day. Only time it didn't work out was this summer when I blew a motor, but I got a ride home with my father who was at the track day with me, and had the car picked up by AAA.

That's a lot of miles to put on it, though. Nearest tracks to me are VIR (VA) and CMP (SC). If I can retire in a few years I may want to visit distant tracks too. I'd rather not wear it down with highway miles. Then again, I may just decide in a few years to sell everything and just go fishin'. Re-sale value would go down with a lot more miles.

Thanks for the feedback!

--Cal

[Captain Obvious]

Why not save a bunch of money and weight and go with an open trailer? Just food for thought.

[cwebster]

Originally Posted by Callaway Chris

For the trailer, it looks like they have electric brakes on each axle, as with other trailers would/should. If not, be sure to up your life insurance, as you WILL need it.

Think you meant 5.7L for the new engine, which is fine, if there's enough gearing. Which may not be the case, given it was a 6 cyl, originally. And then there is cooling for engine and trans. I could go on and on. Been pulling a trailer for 15 years - open, enclosed, w/ trucks and SUVs. Best one by far was enclosed, pulled by the diesel Excursion

Yeah, typo - should have been 5.7L. I ordered the C1500 with the "towing package" which included the bigger radiator with engine oil lines and transmission cooler. I thought it also included upgraded braking system and drive components (gearbox, drive shaft). I'd have to double-check on these, though.

Looks like I've got some more homework to do before deciding the upgrade the C1500 or sell/trade for a 3/4 ton.

I'm retired Marine so I can use the auto shop on the nearby base to do any big work. I just don't have a ton of time these days with my work keeping me busy. If it's a 1 or 2 day job I can handle it. Anything longer and I'd have to hire someone to do it.

--Cal

[cwebster]

Originally Posted by snackbar64

Inside this 4600 lb trailer is a 5000 lb pick up truck. I have a GMC Sierra 1500 and it pulls it just fine with an 11,200 lb towing capacity and even switches to 4 cylinders when cruising on the highway. Absolutely unbelievable. It is an 8.5 X 20 anto hauler. Save yourself some money if possible by considering the shorter trailer.

I am pulling this from Texas to Cali in a few weeks. A Camaro will fit just fine, but I have no idea how you get out. Climbing out the window isn't an option for me.

That's a nice rig! Mine's got a few more wrinkles... I like the idea of having a crew cab. I'm definitely considering the shorter trailers, so long as there's some extra room up front for essentials. It'll be easier to park in the driveway or beside the house too.

Since I'm locked into the engine upgrade on my C1500, I'll decide about the trailer first, get the wiring done with brake controller, then test it out locally; first empty, then with my Colorado inside. If it doesn't feel safe I'll breakdown and sell my two trucks and get a good used 3/4 ton. That's gonna be hard because I bought this C1500 new and only recently stopped using it when the nearby Chevy Dealership's service dept killed the motor.

--Cal

[cwebster]

Originally Posted by Captain Obvious

Why not save a bunch of money and weight and go with an open trailer? Just food for thought.

Mainly because the trailer will serve double-duty as a garage during Winter months. I never liked leaving my cherry 2014 SS 1LE outdoors. I aim to keep the ZL1 looking new as long as possible.

--Cal

[cwebster]

Originally Posted by stella16

I was towing a big wake boat with a Dodge 1/2 ton hemi. I averaged 9 mpg. I then upgraded to a 2007 Ford F250 and averaged 15 while towing. It handled hills and mountains wonderfully.
If I buy again, I will look into a 1 ton. My buddy just bought a new 3500 non-dually chevy for cheaper than a similarly loaded new 2500. It's very nice :-)

but I now currently pull a boat with a 1959 Chevy Apache 4x4 with a modified 383 stroker and a 700r4..........it's more fun
just food for thought

Oh yeah! The '59 with the stroker would definitely be more fun. I'll get my fun at the destination, though. For now I'll be happy just to be able to get it to VIR and/or CMP for track days.

The gas mileage and wear-n-tear on a smaller truck is definitely a consideration. Thanks.

--Cal

[snackbar64]

Originally Posted by cwebster

That's a nice rig! Mine's got a few more wrinkles... I like the idea of having a crew cab. I'm definitely considering the shorter trailers, so long as there's some extra room up front for essentials. It'll be easier to park in the driveway or beside the house too.

Since I'm locked into the engine upgrade on my C1500, I'll decide about the trailer first, get the wiring done with brake controller, then test it out locally; first empty, then with my Colorado inside. If it doesn't feel safe I'll breakdown and sell my two trucks and get a good used 3/4 ton. That's gonna be hard because I bought this C1500 new and only recently stopped using it when the nearby Chevy Dealership's service dept killed the motor.

--Cal

One must have for any auto hauler is a built-in winch to pull the car inside. Especially helpful if it's not operational for some reason. That is the best feature of my trailer. I have a 9000 lb rated winch that makes loading and unloading a cinch and eliminates the need to climb out the window of your Camaro.