[MattDinOC]

I went with a sort of hybrid approach when I got my SS. I didn't like the vague instructions that Chevy includes in the owner's manual, but seeing as how I'm planning to keep this car for a very long time, I also am not going to go out and thrash it just because someone on the internet said that's the right way to do it. Someone here once posted an image of the break-in instructions that Chevy provides with its crate engines. So I went and found the instructions for our engine and followed those guidelines. Here's the PDF of the full instruction book.

The break-in instructions that are relevant to us as buyers of a new LT1-powered Camaro:

7. The engine should be driven at varying loads and conditions for the first 30 miles or one hour without wide open throttle (WOT) or sustained high RPM accelerations.
8. Run five or six medium throttle (50%) accelerations to about 4000 RPM and back to idle (0% throttle) in gear.
9. Run two or three hard throttle (WOT 100%) accelerations to about 4000 RPM and back to idle (0% throttle) in gear.
10. Change the oil and filter. Replace the oil per the specification in step 1, and replace the filter with a new PF64 AC Delco oil filter. Inspect the oil and the oil filter for any foreign particles to ensure that the engine is functioning properly.
11. Drive the next 500 miles (12 to 15 engine hours) under normal conditions. Do not run the engine at its maximum rated engine speed. Also, do not expose the engine to extended periods of high load.
12. Change the oil and filter. Again, inspect the oil and oil filter for any foreign particles to ensure that the engine is functioning properly.

I skipped the oil-and-filter change in step 10, but did the one in step 12. I was at 700 miles when I did that one. Next oil change will be a the normal interval.

To break in the rest of the drivetrain properly, I am avoiding redlining and smoky burnouts until after I hit 1500 miles. Running it hard from time to time, not babying it, but also not ignoring the instructions in the vehicle owners manual.

Matt

[PRAY]

The key to the above is leaving it in gear for deceleration. Many people skip this part and only look at the WOT accel part. I didn't read all the posts and someone may have mentioned it but the decel vacuum created by leaving it in gear pulls fresh oil into the groves and expels the metal and burnt oil that would be lift in them if you pushed in the clutch or knocked the shifter into N. That is what "glazes" cylinder walls. Same goes for sustained RPM. You will see a bunch of smoke and what not come out of the back when you do this. When the smoke is gone you are usually good. Motor is sealed up.

[MattDinOC]

Good stuff, thanks PRAY.

Living in suburbia, I had to think a bit to find a place where I could safely do these accel/decel runs. I used a long road in a commercial district that dead-ends and so has very little traffic toward the end of it. It was pretty deserted on the weekend. 4K RPM is only about 50 mph in second gear, 70 in 3rd gear. Just for reference for anyone who is planning to follow this procedure.

[Zxmustang]

Originally Posted by EXSSIVE

http://mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

Very similar to the procedure I use on all of my new vehicles and engines.

This is for race engines that get torn down and rebuilt after ever race. So good luck with that....lol People have been posting that link, since the beginning of the internet. They always fail to mention that last little fact about those engines being race engines.

Not needing to run for 100k miles...

[Mr. Grumpy]

Originally Posted by MattDinOC

I went with a sort of hybrid approach when I got my SS.

I guess that a break in on a crate engine is different from the break in on a new car since your other components (Trans, Clutch, Diff, etc...) are already broken in. With a new car you need to keep in consideration the break in of these components.

[AndyUK]

Originally Posted by Mr. Grumpy

I guess that a break in on a crate engine is different from the break in on a new car since your other components (Trans, Clutch, Diff, etc...) are already broken in. With a new car you need to keep in consideration the break in of these components.

Nope, those break in instructions are EXACTLY the same as the manual

it says not to go over 4000rpm, and it says no WOT from a stop, these say the same

[Spanky1]

On the spec page of the LT1 crate engine it states the oil capacity is 7 quarts. Anyone know why it takes 7 quarts while the stock engine takes 10 quarts?

[Glen e]

Originally Posted by Spanky1

On the spec page of the LT1 crate engine it states the oil capacity is 7 quarts. Anyone know why it takes 7 quarts while the stock engine takes 10 quarts?

The LT1 wet sump vette engine takes 7 qts
The z51 vette dry sump LT1 takes 10
The Camaro LT1 wet sump takes 10.

must Be the wet sump LT1

[Mr. Grumpy]

Originally Posted by AndyUK

Nope, those break in instructions are EXACTLY the same as the manual

The break in period in the manual is for 1,500 miles. The crate engine says 500 miles. That was the difference I was referring to. When I broke in my car, I babied the car for the first 250 miles. After that I performed my first oil change and started to do WOT accelerations to 4K RPMs in 3rd gear.

[MattDinOC]

Originally Posted by Glen e

The LT1 wet sump vette engine takes 7 qts
The z51 vette dry sump LT1 takes 10
The Camaro LT1 wet sump takes 10.

must Be the wet sump LT1

That was my guess too. JEGS lists the engine with both wet sump (19328728) and dry sump (19329997) for sale. But both of them link to the same spec sheet, which says 7 quarts. It's a mistake somewhere. The Camaro definitely takes 10 quarts, but regardless of the mistake, this is our engine.

[MattDinOC]

Originally Posted by Mr. Grumpy

The break in period in the manual is for 1,500 miles. The crate engine says 500 miles. That was the difference I was referring to.

Right. The key to me is that they don't contradict each other. One is pretty vague about how to treat the car in the first 1500 miles, and the other is pretty specific about how to treat the engine in the first ~500 miles. So by following the crate engine guide for the first ~500, then the owners manual guide after that, you're following all recommendations from GM and hopefully come out the other side with an engine that's in really good shape.

IMO the vehicle owner's manual doesn't give you the whole story, but that's probably because they don't want to overcomplicate things for the 90% of owners whose eyes would simply glaze over and would say "to hell with it" when presented with the detailed instructions that come with the crate engine...

[EXSSIVE]

Originally Posted by Zxmustang

This is for race engines that get torn down and rebuilt after ever race. So good luck with that....lol People have been posting that link, since the beginning of the internet. They always fail to mention that last little fact about those engines being race engines.

Not needing to run for 100k miles...

It doesn't just work for race engines. When I worked for a speed shop when I was younger, the owner preached a very similar method for every single engine we built. Whether it was going into a dump truck or a 2,000hp engine for a drag car or even a restoration build, they all got the same treatment.


I have owned a ton of vehicles and built quite a few engines, this method has never failed me and always leaves me with great compression and power results.