Oops; I put regular fuel into my SS - Page 2

MMC2100 · 10-25-2016, 11:25 AM

So, not to hijack the thread (my dealer put regular in my SS when I first picked it up) but what is the minimum you should put in? I've been doing 91 (as that is what is around most gas stations here) but I'm seeing a lot of folks saying 93.

gosutag · 10-25-2016, 11:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MMC2100

So, not to hijack the thread (my dealer put regular in my SS when I first picked it up) but what is the minimum you should put in? I've been doing 91 (as that is what is around most gas stations here) but I'm seeing a lot of folks saying 93.

I use 93 because if I remember correctly 91 is only "Super" gas and 93 is "Premium" the recommended fuel.

enzia35 · 10-25-2016, 11:55 AM

91 or 93 is okay.

oldman · 10-25-2016, 01:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Eric SS

Booster will only raise your octane by about .5 or so. I like someone else's suggestion of buying a couple of gallons of 101 or something if you are going to do anything.

probably a better idea, there are quality boosters though.. another thread for another day. Just saying the car will detonate heavily on light load highway driving at least my M6 did, dealer filled it with regular.

bybcous · 10-25-2016, 01:59 PM

I read of some guy on here who ran 87 and had problems, but it worked out after he refilled with 93.

Ecchi667 · 10-25-2016, 03:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MMC2100

So, not to hijack the thread (my dealer put regular in my SS when I first picked it up) but what is the minimum you should put in? I've been doing 91 (as that is what is around most gas stations here) but I'm seeing a lot of folks saying 93.

91 is fine. Some states just get 93 instead of 91. Here in SC we have 87, 89 and 93.

Donner · 10-28-2016, 07:39 PM

Hello,

A few thoughts on fueling the beast. One can read up on the Octane scale in the link below; there are vast differences in the quality of gasoline due to the number of chemicals that get put into the mix. Back Story. If one observes the writing on the gas pump, it explains the way that the octane scale is determined by the manufacturer; typically, it is the (R+M)/2 method (meaning the Research number plus the Measured number as an average).

The only thing your engine cares about is the "M" since car motors are not very bright and can't do the math nor would they benefit from it if they could. Chemists, engineers, and marketers, can make up any R (Research) number that they choose so long as they feel their lawyers can successfully defend it in a court case.

As an example: If the M (measured) octane rating is say, 90 and R (Research) is also 90, then 90 + 90 (180) divided by two and has an octane rating of 90 at the pump. But say, the M is still 90, and the R is scientifically calculated and determined to be 100, then (100 + 90)/2 = 95 so the fuel is then sold with a 95-octane rating.

Pop Quiz: what is the actual octane rating of the gas in the vehicle for either choice? In both cases, it’s 90 (the measured value).

What octane does is suppress the relative volatility of gasoline. When put under pressure, (meaning during the compression cycle prior to combustion) there is a point where the vapors want to explode just from being squeezed. Having higher measured octane values further suppresses the point at which the gasoline will detonate from compression. The higher the octane rating, the greater the suppressive value. Higher performing engines benefit from having just enough suppression in the explosiveness to keep the fuel from popping prematurely, but not so much that is degrades the velocity of flame expansion.

Normally, the gasoline explosion begins to occur just ahead of the piston's motion to the very top; sparing a discussion about flame propagation properties, suffice it to say that it takes a bit of time before the vapors to fully combust; if it occurs to early, it is not desirable. Premature detonation is what makes the knocks, pings, etc. and in general, it's not good for the motor because those noises are not just sound effects. They are the valves getting slapped around, the piston’s rings taking a beating from non-uniform wave propagation, and other truly ugly stuff that make reliability engineers depressed.

However, some amount of a head start between lighting the fuel mixture on fire and it making the best use of the explosion to push the piston down is necessary; this is usually measured in degrees of advance prior to the piston reaching top dead center (tdc) but this is very dependent on the number of things including the revolutions that the motor is turning, the compression ratio, air fuel mixture ratios, the velocity of the mixture, as well as its atomization, shapes of the surfaces, temperature, and several other important things, so what’s optimal can vary substantially...

Pop Quiz: Is there value in putting higher grade octane rated fuel into an engine than what is can effectively use? Answer: yes, no, and maybe. Yes, because higher grade fuels tend to have less crap in them. No because the engine will actually go faster when the most explosive amount of power is available (meaning the least suppressed beyond what is necessary to prevent premature detonation), and maybe because of reasons including the fact that modern cars have anti-knock sensors in them and they will adjust the air-fuel ratios, degrees of advance, and with some cars, even the valve overlap and lift, to prevent premature detonation and knocking as a result of running less good fuel.

Note to Trolls: I am well aware that I am taking certain artistic liberties with respect to the principles of internal combustion engines, fuel use, and chemistry. If you disagree, in whole or in part, please write your own story and post it rather than critique my offerings (which I deliberately simplified and passed over certain elements.) For anyone actually curious, I’d be happy to respond to legitimate question. Trolls, don’t take that as an offering.

PS, if it was mine, I’d drive with less zeal and cut the fuel with better gas as soon as I was able; then I’d keep diluting the lesser grade by adding better fuel every quarter of a tank; that is, unless it was knocking; in that case, I’d get the booster as suggested. Better gas comes from service pumps with very high turnover. My carbureted high performance air-cooled motorbike is a connoisseur. She will ping mightily on anything not up to spec. Her preferences include Shell, Texaco, and 7-11’s high grades. I quit with zaxon after the Valdez but in full disclosure, she liked that too.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Heptane

Kindest,

Donner

craigss50 · 11-15-2016, 01:13 PM

From page 250 of the owners manual:

For the LTG 2.0L L4 turbo or the
LT1 6.2L V8 engines, premium
unleaded gasoline meeting ASTM
specification D4814 with a posted
octane rating of 93 is highly
recommended for best performance
and fuel economy. Unleaded
gasoline with an octane rated as low
as 87 can be used. Using unleaded
gasoline rated below 93 octane,
however, will lead to reduced
acceleration and fuel economy.
If knocking occurs, use a gasoline
rated at 93 octane as soon as
possible, otherwise, the engine
could be damaged. If heavy
knocking is heard when using
gasoline with a 93 octane rating, the

engine needs service.

Personally I would only use 93 Octane but unless you are knocking regular should be fine.

MuhThugga · 11-16-2016, 10:07 PM

The computer will adjust the fueling tables until 91+ is back in the tank. There is no need to worry, and definitely no need to pour octane booster in the tank. Octane boosters are a huge waste of money as most only raise octane by about 3 points, and it takes ten points to bump up to one more octane number. So, an Autozone booster would turn that tank of 87 octane to 87.3 octane. Whoopee.

10-25-2016, 11:55 AM	#17
enzia35 Drives: '16 Garnet Red 1SS Join Date: Mar 2014 Location: College Station, TX Posts: 3,449	91 or 93 is okay. __________________ '16 Camaro 1SS '18 Miata GT Gone: '01 Camaro, '14 Camaro, '90 Miata

10-25-2016, 01:59 PM	#19
bybcous Drives: 2016 Hyper Blue 1SS Join Date: Jul 2015 Location: hampton roads Posts: 2,763	I read of some guy on here who ran 87 and had problems, but it worked out after he refilled with 93. __________________ 1ss/Auto-Hyper Blue acs carbon flash spoiler, bmr springs, gm clear tails. Texas speed cam, 223/227 .635/.635 116 LSA, Kooks Long Tube Headers with green cats, MSD Atomic Air Force Intake, CAI Cold Air Intake, QTP cutouts. 503 hp Best so far 11.5 at 123 with a 1.83 60ft. BMR lower and upper trailing arms and upper control arms,E85 DELIVERED 12/29/15 http://youtube.com/bybcous " no talking only racing on my youtube"

10-25-2016, 11:25 AM	#15
MMC2100 Drives: 2016 SS Camaro Join Date: Sep 2016 Location: CO Posts: 28 View My Garage	So, not to hijack the thread (my dealer put regular in my SS when I first picked it up) but what is the minimum you should put in? I've been doing 91 (as that is what is around most gas stations here) but I'm seeing a lot of folks saying 93.

10-28-2016, 07:39 PM	#21
Donner Drives: 2017 50th SS convertible Join Date: Oct 2016 Location: Williamsburg VA Posts: 380	Hello, A few thoughts on fueling the beast. One can read up on the Octane scale in the link below; there are vast differences in the quality of gasoline due to the number of chemicals that get put into the mix. Back Story. If one observes the writing on the gas pump, it explains the way that the octane scale is determined by the manufacturer; typically, it is the (R+M)/2 method (meaning the Research number plus the Measured number as an average). The only thing your engine cares about is the "M" since car motors are not very bright and can't do the math nor would they benefit from it if they could. Chemists, engineers, and marketers, can make up any R (Research) number that they choose so long as they feel their lawyers can successfully defend it in a court case. As an example: If the M (measured) octane rating is say, 90 and R (Research) is also 90, then 90 + 90 (180) divided by two and has an octane rating of 90 at the pump. But say, the M is still 90, and the R is scientifically calculated and determined to be 100, then (100 + 90)/2 = 95 so the fuel is then sold with a 95-octane rating. Pop Quiz: what is the actual octane rating of the gas in the vehicle for either choice? In both cases, it’s 90 (the measured value). What octane does is suppress the relative volatility of gasoline. When put under pressure, (meaning during the compression cycle prior to combustion) there is a point where the vapors want to explode just from being squeezed. Having higher measured octane values further suppresses the point at which the gasoline will detonate from compression. The higher the octane rating, the greater the suppressive value. Higher performing engines benefit from having just enough suppression in the explosiveness to keep the fuel from popping prematurely, but not so much that is degrades the velocity of flame expansion. Normally, the gasoline explosion begins to occur just ahead of the piston's motion to the very top; sparing a discussion about flame propagation properties, suffice it to say that it takes a bit of time before the vapors to fully combust; if it occurs to early, it is not desirable. Premature detonation is what makes the knocks, pings, etc. and in general, it's not good for the motor because those noises are not just sound effects. They are the valves getting slapped around, the piston’s rings taking a beating from non-uniform wave propagation, and other truly ugly stuff that make reliability engineers depressed. However, some amount of a head start between lighting the fuel mixture on fire and it making the best use of the explosion to push the piston down is necessary; this is usually measured in degrees of advance prior to the piston reaching top dead center (tdc) but this is very dependent on the number of things including the revolutions that the motor is turning, the compression ratio, air fuel mixture ratios, the velocity of the mixture, as well as its atomization, shapes of the surfaces, temperature, and several other important things, so what’s optimal can vary substantially... Pop Quiz: Is there value in putting higher grade octane rated fuel into an engine than what is can effectively use? Answer: yes, no, and maybe. Yes, because higher grade fuels tend to have less crap in them. No because the engine will actually go faster when the most explosive amount of power is available (meaning the least suppressed beyond what is necessary to prevent premature detonation), and maybe because of reasons including the fact that modern cars have anti-knock sensors in them and they will adjust the air-fuel ratios, degrees of advance, and with some cars, even the valve overlap and lift, to prevent premature detonation and knocking as a result of running less good fuel. Note to Trolls: I am well aware that I am taking certain artistic liberties with respect to the principles of internal combustion engines, fuel use, and chemistry. If you disagree, in whole or in part, please write your own story and post it rather than critique my offerings (which I deliberately simplified and passed over certain elements.) For anyone actually curious, I’d be happy to respond to legitimate question. Trolls, don’t take that as an offering. PS, if it was mine, I’d drive with less zeal and cut the fuel with better gas as soon as I was able; then I’d keep diluting the lesser grade by adding better fuel every quarter of a tank; that is, unless it was knocking; in that case, I’d get the booster as suggested. Better gas comes from service pumps with very high turnover. My carbureted high performance air-cooled motorbike is a connoisseur. She will ping mightily on anything not up to spec. Her preferences include Shell, Texaco, and 7-11’s high grades. I quit with zaxon after the Valdez but in full disclosure, she liked that too. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Heptane Kindest, Donner

11-15-2016, 01:13 PM	#22
craigss50 Drives: 2017 Camaro SS Fifty Join Date: Oct 2016 Location: Port St Lucie, Florida Posts: 966	From page 250 of the owners manual: For the LTG 2.0L L4 turbo or the LT1 6.2L V8 engines, premium unleaded gasoline meeting ASTM specification D4814 with a posted octane rating of 93 is highly recommended for best performance and fuel economy. Unleaded gasoline with an octane rated as low as 87 can be used. Using unleaded gasoline rated below 93 octane, however, will lead to reduced acceleration and fuel economy. If knocking occurs, use a gasoline rated at 93 octane as soon as possible, otherwise, the engine could be damaged. If heavy knocking is heard when using gasoline with a 93 octane rating, the engine needs service. Personally I would only use 93 Octane but unless you are knocking regular should be fine.

11-16-2016, 10:07 PM	#23
MuhThugga Poppycock Drives: Pontiac GTO Join Date: Dec 2013 Location: Wilmington, De Posts: 116	The computer will adjust the fueling tables until 91+ is back in the tank. There is no need to worry, and definitely no need to pour octane booster in the tank. Octane boosters are a huge waste of money as most only raise octane by about 3 points, and it takes ten points to bump up to one more octane number. So, an Autozone booster would turn that tank of 87 octane to 87.3 octane. Whoopee.

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