[metwaru]

Hey guys, i am just above 41k miles and considering a CRC intake valve cleaner on my 2016 2.0. I watched some youtube videos but most are of v6 and v8 engines. For my car i understand the Air intake goes turbo and not the throttle valve and the throttle valve is on the passenger side of the engine bay closer to the coolant reservoir. Is that right? so i just open up that huge hose clamp and spray it in there?

Yes i know i need a catch can as well, will look into that next

Thank you for your help

[bishopts]

When you disconnect the tube from the throttle the engine can no longer use the mass airflow sensor as a reference. It will most likely die and set an engine light. If you can get it to restart it will struggle if it will even stay running.
Its doable but you might find it easier to feed it in through the purge solenoid vacuum line and then just clean the throttle body by taking it off and cleaning it.

[bishopts]

Here are some pictures to show you. The line is sourced from the manifold just after the throttle body. It will still be a vacuum leak but a much easier one to control.

[metwaru]

Originally Posted by bishopts

When you disconnect the tube from the throttle the engine can no longer use the mass airflow sensor as a reference. It will most likely die and set an engine light. If you can get it to restart it will struggle if it will even stay running.
Its doable but you might find it easier to feed it in through the purge solenoid vacuum line and then just clean the throttle body by taking it off and cleaning it.

I will try that thank you!! and thank you for the pics as well. I am not too good w/ engines but figured i'd give it a shot, need to learn sometime

[bishopts]

Originally Posted by metwaru

I will try that thank you!! and thank you for the pics as well. I am not too good w/ engines but figured i'd give it a shot, need to learn sometime

I learned how because i couldn't afford to pay for a mechanic. Then i said F it and just became a mechanic.
If you have the desire to try then you will have the ability to figure it out.

[metwaru]

Originally Posted by bishopts

I learned how because i couldn't afford to pay for a mechanic. Then i said F it and just became a mechanic.
If you have the desire to try then you will have the ability to figure it out.

I am trying to learn to be self sufficient, i know because of my age some things are tough like today i went to the dealer for a brake fluid flush they had a special service deal for 150, figured its worth it

So asked the service guy today how to get the CRC spray in there and he mentioned taking off the intake, i think you might be right it might not start or struggle to start. So going with your idea in the attached image, i think you mean this part right? is that the intake vacuum line? I guess pull off the clip and red part and spray crc in towards the back of the engine?

Thanks for much for your help, no one has a wirte up or video on this i could find

[bishopts]

Its kinda backwards from the one i showed you. You push that white tab down and slide the hose off the red thing (which is the purge solenoid) then you spray into the hose. The hose is going down to the intake manifold so yes you're looking into it correctly.

[bishopts]

Also look into my post about the vacuum pump delete. Even if you don't do it you can find some good info

[cdb95z28]

Originally Posted by metwaru

Hey guys, i am just above 41k miles and considering a CRC intake valve cleaner on my 2016 2.0. I watched some youtube videos but most are of v6 and v8 engines. For my car i understand the Air intake goes turbo and not the throttle valve and the throttle valve is on the passenger side of the engine bay closer to the coolant reservoir. Is that right? so i just open up that huge hose clamp and spray it in there?

Yes i know i need a catch can as well, will look into that next

Thank you for your help

Two other things can help in the long run that don't cost much money. Change your oil regularly, not relying on the oil life monitor. High quality Dexos rated. About a 4000 mile interval. YMMV on the interval based on driving habits and ambient temp/seasonal changes. And regular use of Top Tier fuel.

[metwaru]

Originally Posted by bishopts

Its kinda backwards from the one i showed you. You push that white tab down and slide the hose off the red thing (which is the purge solenoid) then you spray into the hose. The hose is going down to the intake manifold so yes you're looking into it correctly.

Thank you I was able to get this done yesterday. Found another entry point the MAP sensor which is right after the throttle body attached is a pic. Unplug, unscrew, pull out and spray in. I did about 75% of the can into the MAP sensor port and 1/4 into the vacuum line. I removed the throttle body plastic hose and wiped it down, it was not in terrible condition but there are two spots on it I couldn’t clean of. Forgot to take a pic of it.

You were right I tried starting the car with the throttle body plastic hose off, the engine died within a minute and threw off the check engine light. After I put it back on and had about 4 drive cycles the check engine light turned back off


These catch can kits are crazy in pricing, do we really need this or would an annual CRC cleaning suffice? I drive less than 5k a year on this car.

Thanks again for all your guidance. I’m super happy I was able to do this myself instead of paying the dealer which is unreliable to begin with

[bishopts]

Originally Posted by metwaru

Thank you I was able to get this done yesterday. Found another entry point the MAP sensor which is right after the throttle body attached is a pic. Unplug, unscrew, pull out and spray in. I did about 75% of the can into the MAP sensor port and 1/4 into the vacuum line. I removed the throttle body plastic hose and wiped it down, it was not in terrible condition but there are two spots on it I couldn’t clean of. Forgot to take a pic of it.

You were right I tried starting the car with the throttle body plastic hose off, the engine died within a minute and threw off the check engine light. After I put it back on and had about 4 drive cycles the check engine light turned back off


These catch can kits are crazy in pricing, do we really need this or would an annual CRC cleaning suffice? I drive less than 5k a year on this car.

Thanks again for all your guidance. I’m super happy I was able to do this myself instead of paying the dealer which is unreliable to begin with

Yea, map sensor detects manifold vacuum and pressure. So removing it and then introducing a vacuum leak would definitely mess with the pcm's ability to adjust for it.

The LTG engine probably needs a catch can more than all the other engines. The problem is the mishimoto one is the only one that actually addresses all of the pcv system. All the other ones route the CCV (crankcase vent) system, and ignore the pcv valve port that goes directly from the intake manifold into the valve cover.

[bishopts]

https://www.camaro6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=636003

Look into this one. I have a picture that shows the path of flow

[metwaru]

Originally Posted by bishopts

https://www.camaro6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=636003

Look into this one. I have a picture that shows the path of flow

Thanks, i did some more research on this and what i see Mishimoto has that no one else has is the PCV Y adapter. This adapter is feeding both to the CC and from the CC which is not in the OEM setup. I went through Mishimoto's docs and it seems to be the essential part of their system and what really makes them different. This is also the part they have the patent pending on.

Some caddy guys have gotten creative and used catch cans with stock connectors by splicing the tubes w/ ZZP silicone or generic silicone which sort of works but does not address mishimotos claims that this is where the real issue is on this engine. Check out this post:

https://www.mishimoto.com/engineerin...g-striking-oil

Being new to anything engine related, i cant really have an opinion, what are your thoughts on this?

[metwaru]

Originally Posted by metwaru

Thanks, i did some more research on this and what i see Mishimoto has that no one else has is the PCV Y adapter. This adapter is feeding both to the CC and from the CC which is not in the OEM setup. I went through Mishimoto's docs and it seems to be the essential part of their system and what really makes them different. This is also the part they have the patent pending on.

Some caddy guys have gotten creative and used catch cans with stock connectors by splicing the tubes w/ ZZP silicone or generic silicone which sort of works but does not address mishimotos claims that this is where the real issue is on this engine. Check out this post:

https://www.mishimoto.com/engineerin...g-striking-oil

Being new to anything engine related, i cant really have an opinion, what are your thoughts on this?

On second thought, check out the ZZP dual can setup. This may be superior than misshimoto they added a throttle body spacer with a valve and used an unopen valve as well which may adress the issue fully. I looked at your pics you have ZZP as well? even with catch cans i still intend to use the valve cleaner every 10k to clean out existing carbon build up for now. My hope is the new throttle body port can be used for this as well