[vince3]

Got the wheels and tires on, went with the continental extreme contact 2s for now. Since i will never take it to the track, i just didn't see the point and i simply only care for my 60-130 time. These are 62lbs lighter than stock. Today was in the mid 80s and high humidity, but tomorrow morning a front is coming through and it will dip to the 58-59 degrees. i wont get hero DA like before, but probably close to 0 DA and I will see what gains it has in the morning.

[vince3]

Today was around 0 DA.

Okay i think because of my previous experience with Nitto's i didnt want to go that route again. I should have got nitto's or dedicated setup to swap when i'm going to make my runs like ET Street Rs.

Found a spot to make 1/4 runs, not the greatest but still no traffic so i did 3 back to back hot runs. I spun a lot but still want to post to get an idea of what my car would run 1/4 wise.

Today I got my best verified 60-130 and one great run but too much slope.

[vince3]

New personal best. DA near zero and the E percentage is back up to 80 percent. Might be negative 1000 tomorrow.

[vince3]

Car had knock on most of my pulls. Timing is reduced down to 24 degrees and I’m still getting knock. You can see a big knock event at the end of the dragy screenshot where it pulled all the timing around 125mph.

[vince3]

adjusted the MAF for new colder weather and picked up 2 lbs/min. Cant run more than 23.5 degrees because of knock and i'm still working on that.

[vince3]

Changed multiple things to get a little more out of the car. I had to increase the SOI to bring the EOI up, added LT1King's suggestion for knock sensors and bumped timing back up to 27 degrees towards the higher rpms. Can't get much better weather and conditions than today and 7's is possible if multiple things line up or I add a lightweight battery and pull the passenger front seat.

[Blackmonba6Gen]

I wish I can see that kind of DA man but it does let me know ill be close to an whole second faster in your DA/Elev

[vince3]

Here is what I will say to anyone attempting the best possible times. Clean your MAF sensor, make sure that your clean your air filter more frequently than you might think. Even a couple hundred miles my Rotofab will fill more than expected and I notice my MAF hz's dropping. Also, I slight weather change will throw the MAF numbers off in your tune, so it needs to be adjusted in the upper range, and I've added MAF hz points past the 8550hz. IF you MAF is off, your PE won't match and your commanded lambda/afr will be off at WOT.

I've tried to mess with the timing on my tune, the lambda and my best pulls are inline with how my tune was setup with less timing at peak torque/cylinder airmass, adding more timing in as cylinder airmass drops. Same with the fueling side, sticking to what was in my tune, richer at peak torque/cylinder airmass and leaning it out as rpms rise.

If you are using AI, its good for calculations but ignore the .78 to .82 lambda it suggests (I couldn't even come close to this without my IPW going way to high, even adding to the SOI helped a not nearly enough) and it will tell you to run timing in the low 30s at WOT. The timing is lol and even when raised a little it had knock and then AI was convinced my timing needed to be 19-21 degrees at WOT. I think this below still applies.

Post by Tony Mamo @ AFR » Fri Jun 26, 2009 5:59 pm

I dont think the same ratio across the board is what you shoot for if your looking for optimal results at every RPM. I have dyno'ed a few Gen III combo's to death on the chassis dyno (a 346 with our 205 heads and a 383 with our 225 heads....literally hundreds of pulls on each combination over the course of all the R&D I conducted) and in both cases a straight fuel curve did not provide the best results. But to be honest, if the straight curve was really close to what both peak torque and peak HP seemed to like it wouldn't be very far off in any particular area.

I have found peak TQ wanted a little more fuel (richer A/F ratio) and peak HP a little leaner.....even leaner still past peak HP by a tenth or two of a ratio. Seeing as the engine is most efficient at processing air at peak torque, the fact it can tolerate the most fuel there makes alot of sense.

Both combos seemed to like the same thing.....mid/high 12's at peak TQ.....13.0 at peak HP.....13.1 to 13.2 at max RPM (shiftpoint).

This could be very combination dependent so I wouldnt rely on any of this without trying and experimenting on your own. Also, a carbed application may want something slightly richer....from what I have seen on the engine dyno they generally do.

Long story short, to better answer your question, IMO a straight line A/F ratio may not and probably isn't the best ration for the highest average torque and power figures. If I tried to set both of the combo's listed above straight across, I would have lost power....no question about it.

-Tony

I'm not 100 percent how dyno tunes work, but dialing in the MAF in the upper ranges would seem hard to replicate a car going 100mph+. If you are dyno tuned without street pulls of 100mph plus, I would log some pulls to make sure it matches in the 60-130 range because my guess is it would be off. Again its a domino effect, it MAF is off, then PE will be off and probably other things that a more experienced tuner would pick up on.

I'm currently thinking about how to gain a little more to break into the 7s and below is what I'm wondering.

1. How much are high flow cats hurting me? is this 1-2hp/tq or 5+
2. Would a 103MM tb add more than 1-2 hp
3. Would a 5" intake tube increase MAF hz above my current best of 9090hz
4. Some stations near me are 77-78E and a few are 81-82E, does simply having higher E help, or does it need maybe .5 timing added to take advantage of it?
5. Tire pressure - to get my best launch, I'm in the high 20s, but AI is convinced that higher tire pressure near 38-39 will be better for lower rolling resistance since most of the run is at higher speeds.
6. ATI 10 percent I think would help, but it looks like a pain to install. $550 for the damper and 2 hours of labor for a shop to install. At best I would be looking at $700, but more likely $800-900. Probably not worth it, but since I'm mostly at higher RPM's it would have a benefit.
7. Velossa tech - doesn't exactly fit my LT1, but again trying to get more air in so might be worth $170 gamble.
8. Remove passenger seat - save 40-50lbs
9. LiFePo4 battery - $300 on amazon, saves 25lb-30lbs
10. Catch Can - ignoring the oil going into the intake valves and I'm simply focused on the vapors affecting the fuel and lower octane.
11. Thinking outside the box - what am i missing? what am i not seeing, what am i overlooking?
12. More weight reduction - lets talk about removing the front sway bar first, In my mind this might be a terrible move since i'm going 130MPH. Below is a video of Pray talking about weight reduction and he starts talking about it at 1:16.30

[6spdhyperblue]

Is cot turned on? And is it turning on during your run?

I would do the ati first then the 103 and big jlt intake. The ati is underrated especially on a manual. These mods will get you to your goal.

For battery I’d stick with AGM even if small…the charging logic is setup for those voltages. Result with lithium ion was annoying.

Front tire psi should be higher for pbs


Good call on the air filter. Mine is pretty old.

[vince3]

Originally Posted by 6spdhyperblue

Is cot turned on? And is it turning on during your run?

I would do the ati first then the 103 and big jlt intake. The ati is underrated especially on a manual. These mods will get you to your goal.

For battery I’d stick with AGM even if small…the charging logic is setup for those voltages. Result with lithium ion was annoying.

Front tire psi should be higher for pbs


Good call on the air filter. Mine is pretty old.

COT is off.

I’m leaning towards the ATI. Going to call around and see what a shop will charge to install.

Thinking about the others.

ARH gave me a great deal on the off-road elbows for my system so I ordered them.

[6spdhyperblue]

Originally Posted by vince3

COT is off.

I’m leaning towards the ATI. Going to call around and see what a shop will charge to install.

Thinking about the others.

ARH gave me a great deal on the off-road elbows for my system so I ordered them.

It’s not as bad as it seems u can get the puller and an impact on it without opening the coolant circuit or touching the fans.

Personally I would go ati 103 and jlt before touching the exhaust again. Those make the car better. No tradeoff. Going from high flow cat to OR makes the sound worse and smellier. I’ve had the setup on the 2016 where I could switch back and forth easily and that was my conclusion. JMO only time I’d take the cats off is for an event that would risk melting them or a $ race

[vince3]

Originally Posted by 6spdhyperblue

It’s not as bad as it seems u can get the puller and an impact on it without opening the coolant circuit or touching the fans.

Personally I would go ati 103 and jlt before touching the exhaust again. Those make the car better. No tradeoff. Going from high flow cat to OR makes the sound worse and smellier. I’ve had the setup on the 2016 where I could switch back and forth easily and that was my conclusion. JMO only time I’d take the cats off is for an event that would risk melting them or a $ race

The weather on Monday at 4 am will be negative 1950DA. 8.16 was my best at -1300, and now I've pulled the front seat, which saved 53lbs. I have 1 station in town that has 80+ E85% and I'm going to put a 1/2 half tank of that.

Colder air, plus extreme baro pressure of 30.42 = more cylinder airmass, which should mean that I should pull my timing back some, right?

[vince3]

If I didn't have the incline at the end of this run, i believe this would have been a 7.9x run.

Conditions won't get any better; I could have had more timing in the car, which was at 26 degrees because of cold weather, but it did not have any knock. I think this is all it's got, off-road x pipe gets here this week, but will not have this type of weather again for weeks.

I only got one safe spot for runs, so I can't get too many in without risking it.

[vince3]

New best today. The offroad cats gained over high flow 200 cell ARH cats and from 120-130 mph its worth .1 to .15. My ethanol percentage today was 74 percent. AI says the offroad setup is worth 12hp towards the peak or upper range.

For tuning, my wideband was post cat and i always wondered if this affected my lambda/afr readings, but i did not. So for those in the future who tune the wideband post cat, on 200cell high flow cats there is not difference. the 8.02 was at 26 degrees timing, I did 2 more runs, bumping it to 26.5 and 27 and it did not gain and logs showed a small amount of knock.

So todays runs were the 8.02 and 8.13 and I uploaded my previous best of 8.12 to compare. If i had the same traction as the 8.12 log, I would have hit 7.9s possibly 7.8s. I'm going to swap to NGK 6509's and add the LifePo4 lightweight battery and wait for similar weather again.

I uploaded a 1/4 mile MPH to 60-130 screenshot i saw on a mustang forum for comparisons. My car would not MPH that high because of traction issues but it can give an idea.

On the offroad setup, i have a strong sense of smell but I really do not notice ANY extra smell from the offroad setup. Since i bought my full ARH system used, maybe the cats are not in the greatest shape but they did not look melted. The sound is also much better and since the ARH mufflers are a little tame, the sound improved.