[Kamero6]

Originally Posted by arpad_m

Sorry, I'm not following this, we are talking about post-assembly fluid replacement and not design parameters or capacities.

Does the desired total amount of trans fluid vary depending on the use of the car? No way, because this is completely unpredictable; however, if it's the same quantity for every unit, the replacement procedure should also be the same.

I must be missing something obvious (or sinister, heh).

They have a range of min and max. When it is cold if underfilled it might suck air and shift hard, or slip.
If it is overfilled the fluid can get to the moving parts and ge aireated. In any case its bad.
Lately manufaturers don't give much wiggle room. Like they said 0.2 quarts can make a difference.

[Kamero6]

Originally Posted by CalgaryZL1

That could be the exact reason why GM didn’t want to put in the dipstick and a drain plug because the A10 is used for so many different uses that it becomes confusing to get the proper fill level when one person is driving a daily and the other person is track driver with over 100° temperature swings depending on your application. That’s the only thing I can think of.

Besides that they want you to pay for the service, new transmissions have much tighter fill tolerances and use specific oils.
Imagine grandpa checking the dipstick and dropping half a quarter of ATF he had in the garage since 1987. That can cause a lot of money lost in warranty work. GM can't prove what you did.

The bottom line is that nobody will service the transmission, it will take a poop and they get to sell another car. Win-Win

[CalgaryZL1]

Originally Posted by MT-SS1LE

That's pretty cool. Did you do it yourself or have a machine shop do it? I searched, but there doesn't appear to be an aftermarket pan for the Camaro with 10L80 tranny. Ridiculous that Chevy didn't put a drain plug on it considering many track the car and will be doing frequent fluid changes.

Yes, I welded it myself. I bought the bungs, magnetic drain plug and the no spill system for filling it off Amazon and the new pan from my Chevy dealership

[MT-SS1LE]

Originally Posted by CalgaryZL1

Yes, I welded it myself. I bought the bungs, magnetic drain plug and the no spill system for filling it off Amazon and the new pan from my Chevy dealership

Can you do one for me and I'll pay?

Seriously, that is a great idea. Wish I had welding skills (and the equipment).

[cdb95z28]

Originally Posted by Slurpee

What were the the odd trans events that you were having? I had my trans drained and filled at the dealer prior to my last event and I also had trans issues. It was short shifting, entering / exiting performance shifting mode. It was also a hot track day.
After the issues, I brought it into the dealer, which is where I found out about the new, lower drain and fill temp / fluid fill check. A TAC case was opened with GM engineers for the problem.

Yep. it was short shifting and hard. The session was longer than usual so I'm sure the temps were elevated.

I did a track day yesterday and while the sessions were the normal 20 minutes I didn't have any issues.

[Slurpee]

Originally Posted by cdb95z28

Yep. it was short shifting and hard. The session was longer than usual so I'm sure the temps were elevated.

I did a track day yesterday and while the sessions were the normal 20 minutes I didn't have any issues.

I'll relay this to the dealer.

[h018871]

cdb and slurpee are y'all using the ZLE pan with the shorter tube?

what are your max trans temps when you see the issues (from PDR or DIC)? I see max of 241F with 100F + ambient from the PDR.
I understand that the ZL1 uses a larger horizontal cooler that the SS 1LE

[cdb95z28]

IIRC my ATF temps were 215-220 at the end of that session. Ambients were mid 80s. I have the ZLE pan on the bench and it will be on before my next track day. I also have the larger ZL1 cooler on the way. I will have to modify the lower panel that daylights the cooler to maximize its additional area.

[MT-SS1LE]

How often would you guys recommend changing the fluid on a non-tracked car? I do high speed runs regularly, was thinking every 15K should be good?

[Slurpee]

Originally Posted by h018871

cdb and slurpee are y'all using the ZLE pan with the shorter tube?

what are your max trans temps when you see the issues (from PDR or DIC)? I see max of 241F with 100F + ambient from the PDR.
I understand that the ZL1 uses a larger horizontal cooler that the SS 1LE

I’m using the regular ZL1 pan. Check out my video on the short shifting. It happens irregardless of trans temps. Vid it was 228. Highest it saw on track was 235. Engine oil was 300

[Slurpee]

So I just did this procedure myself… twice… messed up the first time. First time was on quickjacks just idling and heat gunning the pan for 45 minutes. Got up to 150F. Did the level check at that temperature and decided I would do the final level check at the track. BUT I missed the key part that the car had to be running to do the level check, so had to re-do it. Pumped the fluid I drained back in to the pan, about 8 quarts total. I put in all 8 quarts I bought, but obviously had some spillage so it’s not exactly 8 quarts. I did this on dollies the second time. There was just enough room to get my arm to the fill bolt, so I was able to use the brake torque procedure. Took 30 minutes of brake torquing for 5 seconds, waiting 15-20 seconds and repeating to get the transmission to 175F on the DIC. I swapped to the ZL1 1LE pan which holds less fluid, so I didn’t use the higher 212F temp to do the level check. 1.75 quarts came out. Which puts me at 6.25 quarts. Unfortunately, I think I spilled too much fluid, so I don’t think I am as close to 8 quarts as I think. So I will need to re-do the procedure the next time I service the pan in and measure exactly how much comes out so I can just pump by volume next time instead of this ridiculous procedure.

[ShadowLT1]

Originally Posted by CalgaryZL1

I’m pretty sure the manual above is the one that the gentleman from Weber was reading from explaining the procedure in their video

I see what you mean about different, the check temp has changed with this manual 75-80 instead of 95-100

I think it's been "changed" because it's a different transmission per GM RPO code. The 10 speed when that video was made in 2017 was relating to the 10 speed for the ZL1 (10L90 MGL) variant. The new variant 10 speed in the newer ZL1s is transmission code (10L90 MI4)

Not sure if there is a major difference, but it could explain the difference in fluid temp change if there was a capacity or cooling change? Who knows.

[Patriot Motorsports USA]

I am going to post this as a response to the older and original thread on the proper way to change the fluid in the 10L90 transmissions.

Whether or not you have a 1LE or not is not going to matter as the Street Rod kit comes with the ZLE pan on the A10. If you go by the standpipe method and try to brake-torque the transmission to heat it up... you will end up fueling your cats and damaging them in the process.

Watch the video linked below... see the video description and buy the MityVac from Summit Racing. I took the thin plastic tubing and put an aluminum tig welding stick in it, made the bend and then heated the plastic tube to a nice L-shape... removing the aluminum before letting the tube cool down.

Watch the video. What I forgot to mention is letting the car idle while filling it to the side plug level. Doing this a dozen times over the past two years and 30K+ miles, has been perfect for my transmission's longevity.

LMK if you have any questions!