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Old 11-25-2025, 12:51 PM   #1
cajunzl1
 
Drives: 2018 ZL1
Join Date: Jun 2020
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BMR Motor Mounts

Anyone had any issues installing these? thinking about a set while I'm installing headers.

Very few videos online showing the install!

Thanks
Cajun
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Old 11-25-2025, 01:07 PM   #2
2023_ZL1-AUTO

 
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Here's what they look like "installed"
Attached Images
  
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2023 ZL1 A10-Stainless Works 2" Long Tubes & Legend NPP Axle Back•GESI UHO 4.5" CATs•RF BigGulp•Kong 103mm & X-Ported Blower•Griptech 2.30" Upper•ATI Super Damper w/9.45" Lower•THPSI Port Injection w/875cc Injectors•FI Interchillers Stage 2•Brisk RR14S Plugs•Granatelli Malevolent Coils•Katech Low Profile Billet Valve Covers•Katech Duel Fuel Pump•MM Wild 1000HP•DSX Flex Fuel Kit•DSX Billet Lid•DMS 2gal Fender Tank•BMR Cradle Lockout•Weld Solana 18x8 Fronts/17x10 Beadlocks MT ET ST R's•Unlocked TCM•E85=785rwhp/691rwtq +21psi | 1/4=10.5005 @134.21 60ft=1.6182, 1/8=6.8373 @106.11
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Old 11-25-2025, 01:29 PM   #3
SOCAL.M6.ZLE
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cajunzl1 View Post
Anyone had any issues installing these? thinking about a set while I'm installing headers.

Very few videos online showing the install!

Thanks
Cajun
Hey buddy, these are awesome... most of our clients do these with headers like you mentioned, and so did I when I started modding my car.

They are a great addition with no negative effects that I have seen.
I think they could have some from the factory.

Installing with headers is the best time, as you have great access. The hardest part I remember was simply getting to all of the bolts... I recall the passenger side being a PITA.

But the time / cost is well worth it IMO.
Happy to answer any other question you may have...
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Old 11-25-2025, 02:48 PM   #4
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https://www.camaro6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=615916
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2017 Red Hot ZL1 A10 - Apex ARC-8's, 305/ 325 PS4's, DSX 9.06 12% lower, Griptec 2.5 upper, NGK HR7 Ruthenium plugs, Nostrum 22+ injectors, XDI Goliath HPFP, Katech dual in tank low side pump, Katech oil pump, LME tensioner, DOD delete, LT1 big fuel cam, Jokerz ported blower, MPI lid, GMS hood extractor bracket, Soler ported 87mm (91mm eff) TB, Granatelli SS plug wires, Cordes LTR reservoir, DMS T-stat housing, 186* LS3 T-stat, Black Widow Angry Housewife/ Corsa NPP mufflers, Borla X pipe, BMR engine mounts, Banks iDash, Lithium Battery, AEM X- Series, HP Tuners, E85, 16.5 psi
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Old 11-25-2025, 03:41 PM   #5
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So no major hurdles when the exhaust manifolds are removed? Hopefully they will make the header install much easier as well!

Thanks for all the responses!
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Old 11-25-2025, 04:02 PM   #6
SOCAL.M6.ZLE
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cajunzl1 View Post
So no major hurdles when the exhaust manifolds are removed? Hopefully they will make the header install much easier as well!

Thanks for all the responses!
Correct, they make the install much better, you save weight, and it makes removal + install easier down the road when you do more work to the car...

If you wouldn't mind, can you let us know the weight of the OEM Mounts? I looked but couldn't find it in my notes.
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Old 11-25-2025, 04:34 PM   #7
RobZL1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cajunzl1 View Post
Anyone had any issues installing these? thinking about a set while I'm installing headers.

Very few videos online showing the install!

Thanks
Cajun
I'm also a fan of my set. As noted, doing them along with headers at the same time is the way to go. No big issue with install, just take your time and get it all lined up. Likely will need to final-tighten everything after it's all installed and placed appropriately.
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Mods being installed-
oil pump, cam, ported heads, dual in-tank, Goliath and XDI, corn, etc., etc.
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Old 11-25-2025, 05:05 PM   #8
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I put them on mine while doing headers, not too bad to do, just a little time consuming. Made it real easy to slide the headers in.
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Old 11-25-2025, 08:34 PM   #9
GreenZLE
 
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I have a feeling either my block was mis machined or the car was built incorrectly. BMR mounts wouldnt bolt up correctly (holes were off about 1/2") so I purchased some stainless steel plate and fabricated my own plates that bolt to the cradle. LET ME BE CLEAR HERE: I do NOT believe this was something related to BMR.

When I bought the car brand new, ordered from a dealership owned by my family, it wouldnt align correctly and would pull hard to the left when I floored it. Only after buying BMR on car adjustable everything for the rear was the car able to be aligned correctly. The shop that did the alignment said there wasnt enough adjustment to bring it into spec with the stock parts.

At any rate, I absolutely LOVE these mounts! They shed a fair amount of weight and on a ZL1-1LE, you barely notice any additional harshness. The only caveat IMO, is if GM built you a Monday or Friday car, you might have issues. My car was built right after the 2019 strike ended BTW.
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Old 11-25-2025, 08:52 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GreenZLE View Post
I have a feeling either my block was mis machined or the car was built incorrectly. BMR mounts wouldnt bolt up correctly (holes were off about 1/2") so I purchased some stainless steel plate and fabricated my own plates that bolt to the cradle. LET ME BE CLEAR HERE: I do NOT believe this was something related to BMR.

When I bought the car brand new, ordered from a dealership owned by my family, it wouldnt align correctly and would pull hard to the left when I floored it. Only after buying BMR on car adjustable everything for the rear was the car able to be aligned correctly. The shop that did the alignment said there wasnt enough adjustment to bring it into spec with the stock parts.

At any rate, I absolutely LOVE these mounts! They shed a fair amount of weight and on a ZL1-1LE, you barely notice any additional harshness. The only caveat IMO, is if GM built you a Monday or Friday car, you might have issues. My car was built right after the 2019 strike ended BTW.
You know there may be a chance that the sub frame cradle assembly might have been installed shifted too much to one side. I remember that was sometimes a prominent thing on some of the 90's Hondas and so when it came time to do an alignment if things were too far off, sometimes the car would need to come off the alignment rack and the entire assembly needed to be unbolted then shifted one way with a prybar to allow things to get back into proper spec.

I don't know if our cars are like that, but it's an idea.
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2017 Red Hot ZL1 A10 - Apex ARC-8's, 305/ 325 PS4's, DSX 9.06 12% lower, Griptec 2.5 upper, NGK HR7 Ruthenium plugs, Nostrum 22+ injectors, XDI Goliath HPFP, Katech dual in tank low side pump, Katech oil pump, LME tensioner, DOD delete, LT1 big fuel cam, Jokerz ported blower, MPI lid, GMS hood extractor bracket, Soler ported 87mm (91mm eff) TB, Granatelli SS plug wires, Cordes LTR reservoir, DMS T-stat housing, 186* LS3 T-stat, Black Widow Angry Housewife/ Corsa NPP mufflers, Borla X pipe, BMR engine mounts, Banks iDash, Lithium Battery, AEM X- Series, HP Tuners, E85, 16.5 psi
834 HP/ 840 TQ

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Old 11-25-2025, 08:55 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZLRob View Post
You know there may be a chance that the sub frame cradle assembly might have been installed shifted too much to one side. I remember that was sometimes a prominent thing on some of the 90's Hondas and so when it came time to do an alignment if things were too far off, sometimes the car would need to come off the alignment rack and the entire assembly needed to be unbolted then shifted one way with a prybar to allow things to get back into proper spec.

I don't know if our cars are like that, but it's an idea.

You might be right! Maybe the lower cradle was made wrong? I could see that throwing the wheelbase off. Maybe I'll find that it was in a bind when I pull the engine next week!


Lots of mods planned over the winter!
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