[Patriot Motorsports USA]

Originally Posted by radz28

The stuff looks good. Tyler has been great. I'm just bummed there's a newer change they just started to encounter, and my choices are to spend a lot more money to redo a lot of this, spend more money on tools so I can move my car and install this stuff when the updated parts arrive in several weeks, or whatever. I just hope whatever I do is worth it for these parts. THAT - would be disappointing...

I asked to Tyler to reach out to Nate to call me... as the differences are between the Pre-06/2020 ZLE, Post 2020 ZLE 10L90E version and then the ZL1 which uses the 10L90 and then the SS-1LE 10L80 transmissions which are shared with the trucks. All of these transmissions use a different valve body and have completely different TCM programming. I get what they are doing by removing the shift cushions and going old-school with mechanical mods to firm everything up versus programming the transmission to override physical limits which potentially causes long term damage.

My offer was for Nate to send me the plate, I will scan it on our table and send him the file of mine plus a laser cut copy of it so he can compare it to what he already has. We can then determine that mine is a 2nd generation ZLE A10, and I have a 1st generation ZLE A10 coming back to the shop in a month (Project Shocker) which will have a completely different plate than the ZL1s. I have the lift & tools to evacuate my transmission fluid to make dropping the pan easier than what you experienced.

Did you try removing the "Street-Rod" plug on the driver's side? Watch one of my original videos on how to change the fluid the easy way. The best tool you can have in the shop for this is the Mity Vac!!

How to drain and fill the ZLE A10 transmission

[Roddrz]

Hey Radz28!

Roddrz (Rod) is the fella that posted the complete removal, upgrade and install of the NGD VB into a 10L60 transmission.

Please refer to that post for pictures to the recommendations below....

I sincerely am disappointed to hear that NGD provided a kit incompatible with the 10L90 transmission. :(

I'm genuinely disappointed about this situation and the inconvenience it has caused you, especially given my previous endorsement of this company. However, I believe they will make good on this issue.

Keep Calm and Carry On.

For context, my experience was with the 10L60 transmission, where I encountered no compatibility issues.

I'm completely satisfied with my upgrade results with 6000 miles on VB.

Both automatic and manual modes perform excellently, with crisp, immediate shift engagement that should maintain performance for years without gradual degradation to the entire system.

I'm now enjoying my transmission with complete confidence.

When I want spirited driving, I disable both traction control modes (10-second button press), shift to manual mode, and use the paddle shifters for an engaging driving experience.

If my experience degrades, I will post an update.

Here are some technical tips/recommendations for your transmission work:

Solenoid Clips: Use hook and pick tools to remove the OEM compressible spring retainers, which are known to be problematic from the start.

During reinstallation, ensure the clip insert is properly oriented within the spring retainer.

Transmission Thermostat: Consider removing the transmission thermostat to enable complete fluid flushing with cool transmission fluid.

This eliminates the need to raise temperatures to open the thermostat for flushing. Note that adding cool fluid typically causes the thermostat to close, preventing thorough flushing.

I've been operating my transmission between 100°F and 125°F with excellent shifting performance.

Transmission Pump Inspection: Examine the transmission pump's helical gear for wear signs, as this represents the next common failure point in these transmissions.

Ford uses straight gears, which are noisier but don't experience the press-fitting issues associated with GM's helical gear design.

Check Ball Procedure: To prevent check balls from dropping during service, remove all valve body plate bolts first, then flip the valve body over before separating the halves.

Drain Plug: Use a drain plug from Superior Solutions with pipe thread sealant or tape on the brass threads for No Leaks.

Valve Body Upgrade Rationale (A10 Clutches Slipping): The valve body upgrade represents a cost-effective preventive measure against future transmission issues.

Similar to upgrading engine components like camshafts, crankshafts, oil pumps, or lifters, this modification addresses known weaknesses in the OEM design that can fail under stress, despite previous recalls.

[ZL1_1LE]

Originally Posted by KingLT1

I thought the valve body issue was more with 10l80's and not 10l90's?

Then why did they put out a recall for our ZL1's then? Is there some instances where 10l90s went bad of is GM just trying to cover their own ass?

[ZL1_1LE]

Originally Posted by Patriot Motorsports USA

I asked to Tyler to reach out to Nate to call me... as the differences are between the Pre-06/2020 ZLE, Post 2020 ZLE 10L90E version and then the ZL1 which uses the 10L90 and then the SS-1LE 10L80 transmissions which are shared with the trucks. All of these transmissions use a different valve body and have completely different TCM programming. I get what they are doing by removing the shift cushions and going old-school with mechanical mods to firm everything up versus programming the transmission to override physical limits which potentially causes long term damage.

My offer was for Nate to send me the plate, I will scan it on our table and send him the file of mine plus a laser cut copy of it so he can compare it to what he already has. We can then determine that mine is a 2nd generation ZLE A10, and I have a 1st generation ZLE A10 coming back to the shop in a month (Project Shocker) which will have a completely different plate than the ZL1s. I have the lift & tools to evacuate my transmission fluid to make dropping the pan easier than what you experienced.

Did you try removing the "Street-Rod" plug on the driver's side? Watch one of my original videos on how to change the fluid the easy way. The best tool you can have in the shop for this is the Mity Vac!!

How to drain and fill the ZLE A10 transmission

Forgive my ignorance but hasn't it already been proven that the TCM programming in the 1LE as well as the standard ZL1 are the same?

Originally Posted by Roddrz

Hey Radz28!
Valve Body Upgrade Rationale (A10 Clutches Slipping): The valve body upgrade represents a cost-effective preventive measure against future transmission issues.

I just read through that whole thread and not once do they mention valve body issues. I believe that issue is still outstanding with that car.

[KingLT1]

Originally Posted by ZL1_1LE

Then why did they put out a recall for our ZL1's then? Is there some instances where 10l90s went bad of is GM just trying to cover their own ass?

I honestly didn't know there was a recall on the later 10l90's. I have yet to know of anyone that has had a failure other than maybe 1 guy on this forum. I have however known of quite a few that have had premature 10l80 failures.

Doing a little research, it looks like Sonnax has a solution and it's for all 10 speeds... so evidently it must be an issue on the 10l90's as well.

https://gearsmagazine.com/2025/06/ne...lockup-recall/

[Patriot Motorsports USA]

Originally Posted by ZL1_1LE

Forgive my ignorance but hasn't it already been proven that the TCM programming in the 1LE as well as the standard ZL1 are the same?

The TCM programming, VB plates and fluid pan are completely different with different part numbers.

How they behave is also completely different. At CMP a couple weeks ago, I ran several laps with a ZL1 with a host of ZLE upgrades, Hoosier tires, APR Wing & Splitter... I could clearly hear from his loud exhaust his shift points were completely different as were the downshifts. After the third lap his car went into derated power and he turned into the paddock while I stayed out. Later I inquired if he shifted his A10 or left it in Auto... and Auto it was.

It was with this understanding I reached out to NGD to see what information they could share about the differences. Tyler shared with me they were completely blindsided by the differences in the 1LE variant and were not aware of it when building the original truck versions which is the mainstay of their development for diesel drivers. He also shared their focus has only been for drag racers and did not have any experience with road course applications. I offered to test as I shared before, scan using our equipment to give him everything they would need to laser cut new plates coupled with their experience so everyone could have a positive outcome. My ZLE is a test car for my products and that of others as it has been since purchased. The AWE switchpath exhaust is amazing and a great collaboration... hopefully soon we can see the same for NGD with the ZLE platform and I am willing to assume the costs with the right testing so others can reap the benefits.

I am a Yacht Captain and understand a rising tide raises all ships!

[ZL1_1LE]

Originally Posted by KingLT1

I honestly didn't know there was a recall on the later 10l90's. I have yet to know of anyone that has had a failure other than maybe 1 guy on this forum. I have however known of quite a few that have had premature 10l80 failures.

Doing a little research, it looks like Sonnax has a solution and it's for all 10 speeds... so evidently it must be an issue on the 10l90's as well.

https://gearsmagazine.com/2025/06/ne...lockup-recall/

Hmm interesting. Thank you for the link!

Originally Posted by Patriot Motorsports USA

How they behave is also completely different. At CMP a couple weeks ago, I ran several laps with a ZL1 with a host of ZLE upgrades, Hoosier tires, APR Wing & Splitter... I could clearly hear from his loud exhaust his shift points were completely different as were the downshifts.!

Hmm interesting, so the thought behind him going into derated power or limp mode is because of the differences in transmissions? They were both A10s i'm assuming?

[radz28]

Ugh... very disheartening...

Not only can I NOT get a replacement OEM separator plate (mine seems okay to reuse, but I'd prefer not to), because GM doesn't list it as serviceable (to which I think Tyler did tell me - I have confirmed with my GM parts guy though), I'd have to get a whole valve body... Seriously?... Definitely the last GM car I buy - at least one produced within the last 10-years. Unbelievable... maybe I'll reach out to some manufacturers I see out there, but while I know that some differences could have no effect on operation, I wouldn't know what those are. So - I'm left with two, certain options, now: put the car back together with all the valves and other two plates they provide (which will still work just fine in this tranny - I confirmed that with Tyler) and follow the instructions that came with my kit (the new instructions are actually different than the ones I got with my kit back in April) and either reuse my original plate (if it still seems good, and it seems like it' okay at this point) or try to find an aftermarket plate and hope it works with my application; or - wait, possibly a few months, for NGD to develop one for my application. Getting into the wet weather, I'm not going to drive it much anyways, and I'd rather not put it back together, only to take it apart later for this plate, and fix it until it's broke - which is my typical work method. So - I'm going to try to give it a couple months, as long as they continue to try to develop one. Tyler tells me they intend to, but this is a brand new project, and there are others in the works already, so he could not (reasonably) give me a good idea how long this process will yield a sellable product to me.

So - my current plan is to do a good inspection on my existing separator plate, just for peace of mind in case I feel the need to put it back together without NGD's yet-to-be-developed-separator-plate. I have all the valves, and confirmed my installation instructions, so I'm going to install all of those, and loosely put the valve body back together, only such that I can place it in the tranny pan, and loosely reinstall it under the car. I just bought a set of wheel dollies and intend on placing the car on them, and wheel him over to his side of the garage so my better half can park inside, as usual. I'll give that a couple months, and if progress continues at a reasonable pace (IMHO), I might extend it. I'm not going to drive it in weather anyways, and the less I mess with it, the better.

To reiterate, and in all fairness to NGD - Tyler, MANY times, reiterated this plate in not essential. It's just a bit thicker in an effort to help give some stiffness back to the valve body, and that the valves were the PRIMARY reason for doing this. Since the separator plate had to come out for the valves, they thought they'd make an improved one and just make a better package. He said that aside from VERY FEW instances of OEM separator plate failure, it was just the bonding seal that failed mostly, and that wasn't a common thing. They valves are the issue - not the plate, so I have that reassurance, and want to offer that. Of course - I'm not speaking for NGD, I just want to share and don't want people to be scared off of what seems like a great product. Tyler's support and transparency makes me VERY happy that I gave them my money, even in spite of these developments. I feel good about what he tells me, and just cross my fingers I can obtain a new, improved, separator plate sooner than later. It's not their fault though, and it isn't necessary. The OEM plate is plenty fine from what he has told me. Hopefully mine is in good condition for reuse, if that's the direction I end up going. OH - and they will refund me what I don't use in this situation, so they're not screwing me with parts that don't work or anything. I want to make that clear. SHIT - they upgraded my shift valves to the newest version, FOR FREE, so the customer service is outstanding. Please know that, unequivocally.

So - that's where I'm at for now. I'll update with any progress updates as I get any in a month or two. I'm trying to recall if I had anything helpful to share otherwise, that Rod hadn't already, but he did an OUTSTANDING job already, so I wouldn't want anyone to think I'm suggesting otherwise.

Originally Posted by Patriot Motorsports USA

I asked to Tyler to reach out to Nate to call me... as the differences are between the Pre-06/2020 ZLE, Post 2020 ZLE 10L90E version and then the ZL1 which uses the 10L90 and then the SS-1LE 10L80 transmissions which are shared with the trucks. All of these transmissions use a different valve body and have completely different TCM programming. I get what they are doing by removing the shift cushions and going old-school with mechanical mods to firm everything up versus programming the transmission to override physical limits which potentially causes long term damage.

My offer was for Nate to send me the plate, I will scan it on our table and send him the file of mine plus a laser cut copy of it so he can compare it to what he already has. We can then determine that mine is a 2nd generation ZLE A10, and I have a 1st generation ZLE A10 coming back to the shop in a month (Project Shocker) which will have a completely different plate than the ZL1s. I have the lift & tools to evacuate my transmission fluid to make dropping the pan easier than what you experienced.

Did you try removing the "Street-Rod" plug on the driver's side? Watch one of my original videos on how to change the fluid the easy way. The best tool you can have in the shop for this is the Mity Vac!!

How to drain and fill the ZLE A10 transmission

Yeah - my car was produced on 07/29/19, so I'd have an early ZL1, not a ZLE. I didn't want to take much of my parts guys' time, so I didn't ask how many versions there are, but GM stated in the ZLE release the pan and programming differences. I couldn't confirm many other mechanical differences (so far as the A10 goes), but I know there are others in the powertrain and chassis. I noted many different shaped holes, missing holes, additional holes, and such. BUT - I wouldn't know if they affected actual operation. I offered to send my separator plate to Tyler for reference, too, but didn't get a response, which is fine. They have my pictures.

I have watched those videos several times to try to understand the flow path of the fluid, because I have both the electric pump Rod' used and a MOTIVE pressure pump I'm going to try, first, with the standpipe fill procedure. I did see the plug you referenced, though, so I might modify an allen wrech to fit and use that, but I like that I can pressurize the MOTIVE pump and add fluid while I attempt to drain from the oil cooler, as Rod' did. That's a bit a ways away, but your video DEFINITELY helped better understand what I might need to consider and do! I have to add that drain plug, too, before I forget, lol.

Originally Posted by Roddrz

Hey Radz28!

Roddrz (Rod) is the fella that posted the complete removal, upgrade and install of the NGD VB into a 10L60 transmission.

Please refer to that post for pictures to the recommendations below....

I sincerely am disappointed to hear that NGD provided a kit incompatible with the 10L90 transmission. :(

I'm genuinely disappointed about this situation and the inconvenience it has caused you, especially given my previous endorsement of this company. However, I believe they will make good on this issue.

Keep Calm and Carry On.

For context, my experience was with the 10L60 transmission, where I encountered no compatibility issues.

I'm completely satisfied with my upgrade results with 6000 miles on VB.

Both automatic and manual modes perform excellently, with crisp, immediate shift engagement that should maintain performance for years without gradual degradation to the entire system.

I'm now enjoying my transmission with complete confidence.

When I want spirited driving, I disable both traction control modes (10-second button press), shift to manual mode, and use the paddle shifters for an engaging driving experience.

If my experience degrades, I will post an update.

Here are some technical tips/recommendations for your transmission work:

Solenoid Clips: Use hook and pick tools to remove the OEM compressible spring retainers, which are known to be problematic from the start.

During reinstallation, ensure the clip insert is properly oriented within the spring retainer.

Transmission Thermostat: Consider removing the transmission thermostat to enable complete fluid flushing with cool transmission fluid.

This eliminates the need to raise temperatures to open the thermostat for flushing. Note that adding cool fluid typically causes the thermostat to close, preventing thorough flushing.

I've been operating my transmission between 100°F and 125°F with excellent shifting performance.

Transmission Pump Inspection: Examine the transmission pump's helical gear for wear signs, as this represents the next common failure point in these transmissions.

Ford uses straight gears, which are noisier but don't experience the press-fitting issues associated with GM's helical gear design.

Check Ball Procedure: To prevent check balls from dropping during service, remove all valve body plate bolts first, then flip the valve body over before separating the halves.

Drain Plug: Use a drain plug from Superior Solutions with pipe thread sealant or tape on the brass threads for No Leaks.

Valve Body Upgrade Rationale (A10 Clutches Slipping): The valve body upgrade represents a cost-effective preventive measure against future transmission issues.

Similar to upgrading engine components like camshafts, crankshafts, oil pumps, or lifters, this modification addresses known weaknesses in the OEM design that can fail under stress, despite previous recalls.

THERE HE IS!!! I saw you hadn't been online for a while, so I didn't want to bug you. You spent a lot of time assisting in that recall thread, but I appreciate this additional input, too!!! I had to give you credit for that drain plug, because that's an EXCELLENT suggestion for future servicing. I plan on either 20K service, or maybe every couple years, regardless of mileage, since I've been lame about driving him much. BUT - I've got some Amsoil to go back in with a new gasket and filter, and with some flush, should get good until the next service. My action to perform this modification was inspired by you, and gave me enough courage to get into it, so THANK YOU! I just have to have some patience to cross the finish line in a while. If they can produce the plate, it will be worth the wait, IMO.

THANKS AGAIN FOR ADDING YOUR COMMENTS HERE!!! They're going to be helpful for me and anyone else. This is NOT that hard a job, honestly. It took longer to set the car up on jack stands than it did to drop the valve body.

Originally Posted by KingLT1

I honestly didn't know there was a recall on the later 10l90's. I have yet to know of anyone that has had a failure other than maybe 1 guy on this forum. I have however known of quite a few that have had premature 10l80 failures.

Doing a little research, it looks like Sonnax has a solution and it's for all 10 speeds... so evidently it must be an issue on the 10l90's as well.

https://gearsmagazine.com/2025/06/ne...lockup-recall/

That Sonnax kit is pretty much in part of the same kit as this one. This one just replaces a lot more valves is all. I intend on posting pics' of my stock valves to show of any wear or anything, but I'm still pretty low miles. I don't think I've, yet, crossed 4,600, so it probably won't be representative of most here. My fluid still looks pretty good, and smells just fine. There's a good amount of clutch material, but I'd expect that from a 10-speed I suppose, lol.

I'd be interested in if anyone's ever heard Jason Leiva (as Josh' posted) say much along these lines of this tranny, so please feel free to share if anyone's heard anything along these lines, or any other relevant ones. Watching all the YT videos about what NGD is talking about, as far as the valve body upgrades go, make sense to me. I like over-built most of the time, and if that's what this helps give me, I'm fine with that. It sounds like, for big power (not me, but +900?) there are other parts to be cognizant of, maybe about the same as these valves, but I wouldn't know. That's just from some videos I've watched. I have a lot more to learn.

Originally Posted by Patriot Motorsports USA

The TCM programming, VB plates and fluid pan are completely different with different part numbers.

How they behave is also completely different. At CMP a couple weeks ago, I ran several laps with a ZL1 with a host of ZLE upgrades, Hoosier tires, APR Wing & Splitter... I could clearly hear from his loud exhaust his shift points were completely different as were the downshifts. After the third lap his car went into derated power and he turned into the paddock while I stayed out. Later I inquired if he shifted his A10 or left it in Auto... and Auto it was.

It was with this understanding I reached out to NGD to see what information they could share about the differences. Tyler shared with me they were completely blindsided by the differences in the 1LE variant and were not aware of it when building the original truck versions which is the mainstay of their development for diesel drivers. He also shared their focus has only been for drag racers and did not have any experience with road course applications. I offered to test as I shared before, scan using our equipment to give him everything they would need to laser cut new plates coupled with their experience so everyone could have a positive outcome. My ZLE is a test car for my products and that of others as it has been since purchased. The AWE switchpath exhaust is amazing and a great collaboration... hopefully soon we can see the same for NGD with the ZLE platform and I am willing to assume the costs with the right testing so others can reap the benefits.

I am a Yacht Captain and understand a rising tide raises all ships!

An excellent way to view things, IMVHO!!!

Originally Posted by ZL1_1LE

Hmm interesting. Thank you for the link!

Hmm interesting, so the thought behind him going into derated power or limp mode is because of the differences in transmissions? They were both A10s i'm assuming?

If I recall, part of what GM advertised for the ZLE package (specifically for the A10 models in '19) was different programming and the ability for the TCM to hold upshifts out for longer. Not higher RPMs, but for a longer time period, before an upshift. E.G. if you were to lift off the throttle, coming into a corner, rather than the tranny upshifting to a lower gear because you came off the throttle, it would hold the same gear anticipating you getting back on the throttle after the corner. Maybe they used G-force logic for this, as the car would know the G's going into the corner, and see that you were in the corner, so it would hold that gear for longer, anticipating you getting right back on the throttle as soon as the G's started letting up. They probably used the steering wheel sensor, too, in these extrapolations

[ZL1_1LE]

Originally Posted by radz28

Ugh... very disheartening...

Not only can I NOT get a replacement OEM separator plate (mine seems okay to reuse, but I'd prefer not to

IMO I think you're overthinking it lol, if it takes longer to put it up on jackstands then it does to pull the valve body then reuse the OEM separator plate and drive the thing

[radz28]

Originally Posted by ZL1_1LE

IMO I think you're overthinking it lol, if it takes longer to put it up on jackstands then it does to pull the valve body then reuse the OEM separator plate and drive the thing

Yeah... Your point is valid.

I'm going to sit down with some good lighting and really scrutinize my separator plate. I took my time separating the halves, so there's a chance it's still okay. I just know I'm going to perseverate on (hopefully) a new one and then have to do it, lol. I just don't want to take an unnecessary risk pulling everything apart again, and break something, or whatever. That would really pizz me off.

The other bummer is I picked up a 3" Corsa mid-pipe (still going to the stock suitcase) for a really goo price, and have almost finished installing that. I won't hear that until I get the tranny put back together, so that's a bit of a bummer, lol...

[ZL1_1LE]

Originally Posted by radz28

Yeah... Your point is valid.

I'm going to sit down with some good lighting and really scrutinize my separator plate. I took my time separating the halves, so there's a chance it's still okay. I just know I'm going to perseverate on (hopefully) a new one and then have to do it, lol. I just don't want to take an unnecessary risk pulling everything apart again, and break something, or whatever. That would really pizz me off.

The other bummer is I picked up a 3" Corsa mid-pipe (still going to the stock suitcase) for a really goo price, and have almost finished installing that. I won't hear that until I get the tranny put back together, so that's a bit of a bummer, lol...

All the more reason to reuse the OEM .....and your rainy season consists of 4-5 days

You are still running stock headers?

[radz28]

Originally Posted by ZL1_1LE

All the more reason to reuse the OEM .....and your rainy season consists of 4-5 days

You are still running stock headers?

Shoot. This year, we've already had about 3 up here! Might find a couple more this weekend! Who knows?

Yup. I don't know, if I could, if I would. I know their utility and have done them on other cars before, but I can't be bothered right now. Maybe after I leave this dumpster fire, but I have enough power, so aside from dropping a little boost, and maybe releasing a little more combustion chamber temperature (which I'm not sure is as big a thing, running E'), I'm not going to get much of what interests me. I'm old enough I don't want a loud car anymore, lol. Though - the OEM muffle does a great job a reducing the sound. I love the sound of our cars, I just don't want to put up with it on mine, lol. LAME...

[Roddrz]

Originally Posted by ZL1_1LE

IMO I think you're overthinking it lol, if it takes longer to put it up on jackstands then it does to pull the valve body then reuse the OEM separator plate and drive the thing

NGD provide three new separator plates for the VB. This description NGD publish is why replace the OEM plates.

Project Carbon® Laser Cut Steel Upper Valve Body Separator Plate:

Another well-documented problem in the General Motors valve body is the deeply untrustworthy separator plate. This plate features a host of design flaws that produce unpredictable failures in this transmission. The paper bonding material on the factory plate is known to tear/come off congesting the valvetrain inside the valve body and the screens inside the valve body are well known to "blow out" causing the solenoid regulator valves to get stuck, causing random meltdown of the transmission.

Our laser-cut valve body separator plate resolves all of these issues and more. It firstly features a 100% paperless design, computer cut by cold-rolled hardened steel that is multiple times thicker than the factory separator plate. This ensures that valve body flexion over time will not cause oil to travel between circuits in the valve body, accommodating for years and hundreds of thousands of miles of valve body flexion with no machining needed.

Furthermore, the Project Carbon® General Motors valve body separator plate set is 100% screenless, permanently ensuring that no valve body screens will ever blow out and cause valve seizure by the solenoids. This is a total solution to a common problem, and delivers peace of mind. All testing performed proved that this is a superior design in terms of both reliability and performance.

Best of all, we modified some of the oil circuitry in the plate to expedite oil flow to oncoming clutches as well as increase the flow of lubrication to the bearings, shafts and gears. This separator plate is an instantaneous improvement in all oil-flow throughout the transmission. This is the difference between the heart of a healthy young adult and a 70 year old, obese smoker with clogged arteries. Clean Arteries = Better Bloodflow.

[ZL1_1LE]

Originally Posted by Roddrz

NGD provide three new separator plates for the VB. This description NGD publish is why replace the OEM plates.

Project Carbon® Laser Cut Steel Upper Valve Body Separator Plate:

Another well-documented problem in the General Motors valve body is the deeply untrustworthy separator plate. This plate features a host of design flaws that produce unpredictable failures in this transmission. The paper bonding material on the factory plate is known to tear/come off congesting the valvetrain inside the valve body and the screens inside the valve body are well known to "blow out" causing the solenoid regulator valves to get stuck, causing random meltdown of the transmission.

Our laser-cut valve body separator plate resolves all of these issues and more. It firstly features a 100% paperless design, computer cut by cold-rolled hardened steel that is multiple times thicker than the factory separator plate. This ensures that valve body flexion over time will not cause oil to travel between circuits in the valve body, accommodating for years and hundreds of thousands of miles of valve body flexion with no machining needed.

Furthermore, the Project Carbon® General Motors valve body separator plate set is 100% screenless, permanently ensuring that no valve body screens will ever blow out and cause valve seizure by the solenoids. This is a total solution to a common problem, and delivers peace of mind. All testing performed proved that this is a superior design in terms of both reliability and performance.

Best of all, we modified some of the oil circuitry in the plate to expedite oil flow to oncoming clutches as well as increase the flow of lubrication to the bearings, shafts and gears. This separator plate is an instantaneous improvement in all oil-flow throughout the transmission. This is the difference between the heart of a healthy young adult and a 70 year old, obese smoker with clogged arteries. Clean Arteries = Better Bloodflow.

But I thought the issue was that his new valve body separator plate wasn't correct from the new one he purchased and now he has to wait months for a new one. Unless I'm completely wrong which is probably the case lol.