[cdb95z28]

Just as important as the oil is, high quality fuel should also be used. That means Top Tier high detergent fuel or reguar use of a high quality fuel system cleaner. Techron, Driven, or Redline. Our direct injection engines need it. If the injectors don't atomize properly, the oil gets abused.

[p47dman]

I know for someone that has never done it, it may seem daunting. But, basically it is just put a pan under car, pull the plug, drain oil and put plug back of course. Then take off filter and spin a new one on. Tools are just drain pan, 15mm box end wrench and a filter wrench.

[Patriot Motorsports USA]

Originally Posted by Reddy1LE

(FL)dealer put in AC Delco 5w-30. I swear this car was getting Mobil 1 for its entire life.. however I was proven wrong. They been putting AC Delco for the longest;

Overthinking.. but domino affect my laziness.

Just so you know, GM's ACDelco Oils come from two difference suppliers depending if its a synthetic or non-synthetic which these days is quite rare. Just a little background, way back to the 1990s I worked for Synerlec which most know as Royal Purple doing testing on their endurance additives out of the Houston Texas area. My Father, has the US Patents for Phenol, Methanol, and Acetone production processes being used Globally and I've enjoyed a lifetime education to learn about additives, modifiers and what keeps metals happy when special fuels add more pressure!

So Reddy1LE, don't worry... if you've been changing the oil regularly at this dealer, the base oil if a synthetic is the exact same whether or not they say its Mobil1, ACDelco or Walmart Supertech. In fact, those of you who love the "New-ish" DRIVEN brands, their oil stocks come from just 100 miles away out of Lake Charles, Louisiana at the refinery there before getting the special additive package.

If you do a search on this forum about the changes to the Mobil1 Supercar 0w/40 and the Euro 0w/40, the differences are simply the packaging and manufacturing point being Beaumont Texas or Lake Charles, Louisiana the marketing Mobil1 is selling these as a USA Dexos or the EuroFS additive package which has a lower SAPs rating.

• Sulfated Ash: This is not intentionally added to the oil but is a byproduct of certain additives in the oil when it burns during combustion. These additives contribute to properties like total base number (TBN), detergency, and anti-wear protection. High sulfated ash content can lead to deposits and blockages, particularly in diesel particulate filters (DPFs).
  
• Phosphorus: Primarily added for its anti-wear properties and oxidation resistance, phosphorus forms a protective layer on metal surfaces to reduce friction. However, it can also poison catalytic converters over time.
  
• Sulfur: Sulfur contributes to anti-wear properties, oxidation resistance, and engine cleanliness. It can also form sulfuric acid during combustion, potentially leading to wear and emissions

SO... if you are running cats with a stock exhaust and tend to do some serious blasts, you may decide to use the Euro Formula which will leave less deposits in the cats.

If you wish to truly protect the engine... Amsoil is a far superior oil and the formulation has been proven for decades to be a superior product with better cooling.

[ctrlz]

Originally Posted by p47dman

I know for someone that has never done it, it may seem daunting.

Ehh. I've done hundreds of these, as I'm sure many others here have done.
The first oil change you always end up needing a special wrench, as the factory or shop likely torqued the filter to 10,000 N-m.
Then you have hot or warm oil running down your arm. You also have 10 qts. of oil that gushes out pretty fast at first, and often splatters on the floor.
The only reason my oil changes are easy is because I know who did the last one (me!) and I'm prepared for all the nonsense.

[Gunkk]

Originally Posted by ctrlz

...Then you have hot or warm oil running down your arm. You also have 10 qts. of oil that gushes out pretty fast at first, and often splatters on the floor.

Stahlbus valves stop all that. They also give you 10 minutes of drain time to go make coffee, grab a beer, pick some daisies, take a sample for Blackstone and fill out the paperwork, whatever.

[p47dman]

Why try to scare someone for their first oil change. 15mm wrench is all you need. Then strap style filter wrench and a drain pan. Take a paper towel under car with you for clean up. When cool, pour oil in milk jugs to take to disposal site. O Rielley's does it near me.

[haggler]

FWIW, the car seems to maintain higher oil pressures with 0w40. I recently used 5w30 Mobil1 ESP and now use Mobil1 0w40 FS.

[bishopts]

I feel like no one ever talks about the importance of a hot drain vs cold drain for oil changes. You have to think about particle suspension in the fluid and effects of carbon deposits. If it burns then you know it's the right time.

[2SS Capt]

Originally Posted by bishopts

I feel like no one ever talks about the importance of a hot drain vs cold drain for oil changes. You have to think about particle suspension in the fluid and effects of carbon deposits. If it burns then you know it's the right time.

I pretty much always do hot drains... My skin will grow back, but that engine, that costs real money!

[Deacon Blues]

Originally Posted by haggler

FWIW, the car seems to maintain higher oil pressures with 0w40. I recently used 5w30 Mobil1 ESP and now use Mobil1 0w40 FS.

Glad I read this. Changed the oil last weekend and got the car out for the first real run since, it was 5w-30 before and now Mobile 1 SC 0w-40. Pressure depending on gear/throttle dips as low as 38 and as high as 50 with pulls. With the original oil it was pretty close to 40 the most part.