Which set of headers (listing headers with know problems) - Page 4

bishopts · 07-03-2025, 02:19 PM

Just to add info here, i have speed engineering headers, since they don't have a flex coupler of any type , the xpipe cracked in the center of the x from normal engine flexing.

Evansa22 · 07-03-2025, 09:51 PM

My experience was not good with CSP headers, think it was one of their early batches made by stainless works back in 2020-2021. Both flanges at the heads were warped enough to leak even with thicker gaskets which caused tuning issues. Also had issues with the clamps on the bottom leaking even using very high temp rtv, which again caused tuning issues. Because of where im located, they wouldn't deal with me which is understandable, and don't blame them for that. Just wish they came to me right in the first place. Maybe this was because they were early batches, not sure.

Summit20171SS · 07-08-2025, 08:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Spaceme1117

I have had Kooks on my 2017 SS for almost 4 years now. Other than moving the passenger side wiring harness which you would need to do for all headers except for the factory manifold, I have not had any problems. I found that they fit pretty much perfect and had plenty of clearance of everything.

I wasn't aware of moving the wiring harness on these cars? When you say move the harness, do you mean completely relocate it to the other side?

Dynamical · 07-09-2025, 05:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Summit20171SS

I wasn't aware of moving the wiring harness on these cars? When you say move the harness, do you mean completely relocate it to the other side?

Moving it to the opposite side of the coolant tank seems to be what most do.

randeez · 07-09-2025, 08:31 AM

was disappointed with ARH 2"/xpipe
wait was 12+ weeks
both header flanges were warped, one was close and probably would have worked with the thick graphite gaskets they provide, the other was 1/4" out with a straight edge on it.
they are just tacked on the outside and then completely welded on the inside. being that they were so far warped it looked like they tried to sand the flanges flat - but they had to take so much material off that the tube to the flange was no longer welded. had them finish welded around the outside and then flattened the flanges back out
fit was all pretty good, only other gripe is a tube after the xpipe/midpipe. its not exactly symmetrical from the midpipe to the muffler, but they use the exact same pipe to kick to driverside and passenger side which has another bend in it. so one side tucks up into tunnel, but the other side (same pipe rolled over) hangs down out of the tunnel

DeuceCam · 07-09-2025, 03:09 PM

^Yikes! That's unacceptable for what they cost.

Summit20171SS · 07-09-2025, 09:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dynamical

Moving it to the opposite side of the coolant tank seems to be what most do.

Ok I see, is it pretty difficult to do?

Dynamical · 07-10-2025, 07:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Summit20171SS

Ok I see, is it pretty difficult to do?

I have not done this myself, but I can tell you if you search on here you will see. It’s very easy to.

Summit20171SS · 07-10-2025, 08:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dynamical

I have not done this myself, but I can tell you if you search on here you will see. It’s very easy to.

Ok thank you

GreyGhost702 · 07-15-2025, 08:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by randeez

was disappointed with ARH 2"/xpipe
wait was 12+ weeks
both header flanges were warped, one was close and probably would have worked with the thick graphite gaskets they provide, the other was 1/4" out with a straight edge on it.
they are just tacked on the outside and then completely welded on the inside. being that they were so far warped it looked like they tried to sand the flanges flat - but they had to take so much material off that the tube to the flange was no longer welded. had them finish welded around the outside and then flattened the flanges back out
fit was all pretty good, only other gripe is a tube after the xpipe/midpipe. its not exactly symmetrical from the midpipe to the muffler, but they use the exact same pipe to kick to driverside and passenger side which has another bend in it. so one side tucks up into tunnel, but the other side (same pipe rolled over) hangs down out of the tunnel

My "Extreme Online Store" headers were out about 1/8" at the max. That gap is at least that maybe a bit more tbh. That's extremely disappointing for ~$2,000 headers. I would have shit kittens all over ARH's front porch.

Did you ever call ARH about these? You'd think they'd be embarrassed to even let that leave the work station. Did you buy them from a legit vendor or ARH? Possible knock offs?

randeez · 07-15-2025, 01:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GreyGhost702

My "Extreme Online Store" headers were out about 1/8" at the max. That gap is at least that maybe a bit more tbh. That's extremely disappointing for ~$2,000 headers. I would have shit kittens all over ARH's front porch.

Did you ever call ARH about these? You'd think they'd be embarrassed to even let that leave the work station. Did you buy them from a legit vendor or ARH? Possible knock offs?

They were purchased through Summit, I sent them all the pictures - they said ARH said send em back and wait XX weeks again- to get god knows what back. summit would accept the return/refund and discount any brand they carry.
part of the problem was car was at friends shop taking up a lift getting a handful of other things done, so telling him hey its gonna be another few weeks/months was going to be a dick move.
after talking with summit they offered to reimburse me for "fixing them" (welding tubes to flange and reflattening the flanges), so went that route. summit was good to deal with, no complaints with them - didnt cost me much to get them in usable shape. but yea just the hassle of buying and waiting for what was supposed to be the best quality

GreyGhost702 · 07-15-2025, 01:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by randeez

They were purchased through Summit, I sent them all the pictures - they said ARH said send em back and wait XX weeks again- to get god knows what back. summit would accept the return/refund and discount any brand they carry.
part of the problem was car was at friends shop taking up a lift getting a handful of other things done, so telling him hey its gonna be another few weeks/months was going to be a dick move.
after talking with summit they offered to reimburse me for "fixing them" (welding tubes to flange and reflattening the flanges), so went that route. summit was good to deal with, no complaints with them - didnt cost me much to get them in usable shape. but yea just the hassle of buying and waiting for what was supposed to be the best quality

Summit is good stuff, glad to hear their customer service didn't tank post-covid. Good resolution with the reimbursement. Glad you could get it corrected and move on with your build.

Boost Creep · 07-15-2025, 03:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GreyGhost702

Summit is good stuff, glad to hear their customer service didn't tank post-covid. Good resolution with the reimbursement. Glad you could get it corrected and move on with your build.

Like just about everything else.

blahson · 07-16-2025, 12:48 PM

ARH 2" no cats here
Jet Hot coating as well

Things I wish I knew prior to installing them:

Get the ceramic coating
Get better wires (MSD or Katech)
MOVE THAT HARNESS!
Get a SHORTER steering shaft bolt
Wrap the pass front brake line

The zip-ties that hold the main wiring harness will get soft from heat, the harness will kink, break free from the zip-ties and touch the header. Does not matter which header. It'll happen with stock headers too if you road race in FL summer or COTA during the summer like I do.
MOVE THE HARNESS

If you have OEM motor mounts, the engine will move around a bit and the headers will lightly tap things. Most guys on here will deny it, but have them turn everything off and close the exhaust valves, you'll hear it and might even feel it. BMR motor mounts seems to be the way to go.

My steering shaft has a plastic sleeve that is slowly melting away.
There is a bolt in the middle of the shaft that will bang against the header as well. Buy a shorter button-head bolt for clearance.

Get better ceramic wires. MSD or Katech. Do NOT get boots/sleeves. You don't need them. They actually trap heat on specific cylinders from the geometry.

I ceramic coated all the way back because the rear diff cooler lines run along the exhaust. Jet-hot on the longtubes, Polydyne the rest of the way.

Lastly, wrap the front brake lines, see if you can move the passenger front brake line.

My recommendations for ANY headers on our camaros

07-03-2025, 09:51 PM	#44
Evansa22 Drives: 2018 HBM ZLE Join Date: Aug 2017 Location: In the garage Posts: 877	My experience was not good with CSP headers, think it was one of their early batches made by stainless works back in 2020-2021. Both flanges at the heads were warped enough to leak even with thicker gaskets which caused tuning issues. Also had issues with the clamps on the bottom leaking even using very high temp rtv, which again caused tuning issues. Because of where im located, they wouldn't deal with me which is understandable, and don't blame them for that. Just wish they came to me right in the first place. Maybe this was because they were early batches, not sure. __________________ Check out my youtube channel https://www.youtube.com/@evans.educa...ocxUzC1ferqeg8 Full SPL suspension / Ported blower / NW 103mm / Rotofab BG / 2" Headers / Ported heads / Upgraded Valvetrain w/ DOD delete / Custom 38% Cam / C7.R Timing chain / Katech Oil pump / BMR motor mounts and chassis braces / Katech 174* Thermostat / Pierburg Supercharger coolant pump / PLM HX / JMS voltage booster / ATI Damper w/ 8.6 Lower / MM Mild catch can / ADM Resevoir / soon to come... Rebuilt Engine / XDI +30% injectors / PWR Oil cooler setup / GMS Hood bracket 760 Whp / 700 Wtq E50

07-09-2025, 08:31 AM	#47
randeez Drives: 2017 ctsv Join Date: Jan 2024 Location: south fl Posts: 9	was disappointed with ARH 2"/xpipe wait was 12+ weeks both header flanges were warped, one was close and probably would have worked with the thick graphite gaskets they provide, the other was 1/4" out with a straight edge on it. they are just tacked on the outside and then completely welded on the inside. being that they were so far warped it looked like they tried to sand the flanges flat - but they had to take so much material off that the tube to the flange was no longer welded. had them finish welded around the outside and then flattened the flanges back out fit was all pretty good, only other gripe is a tube after the xpipe/midpipe. its not exactly symmetrical from the midpipe to the muffler, but they use the exact same pipe to kick to driverside and passenger side which has another bend in it. so one side tucks up into tunnel, but the other side (same pipe rolled over) hangs down out of the tunnel __________________ 2017 CTS-V ARH 2"/Xpipe, Rotofab BigGulp, DSX ti295s/fpcm, DSX LT4 Lid, DSX PI plates/Atlas Controller, 2.30 Upper/ATI/9.06 Lower, CWA150 pump/12an hoses/InterChiller/LMP bumper tank, HPtuners/SBT 2012 Yukon Denali tms/fed 427, atfspeed 4l80/circle d, np149, gtx5533r/tial housing, aeromotive/fic, shearerfab hi ram intercooler, chiller/10gal res/cwa400, qa1, dub22/nitto, 2020 Silverado H/C 3.0L duramax/10sp/4x4, 43gal titan tank

07-16-2025, 12:48 PM	#56
blahson meep meep Drives: 2018 ZL1 1LE Join Date: Oct 2013 Location: MIA & HOU Posts: 65 View My Garage	ARH 2" no cats here Jet Hot coating as well Things I wish I knew prior to installing them: Get the ceramic coating Get better wires (MSD or Katech) MOVE THAT HARNESS! Get a SHORTER steering shaft bolt Wrap the pass front brake line The zip-ties that hold the main wiring harness will get soft from heat, the harness will kink, break free from the zip-ties and touch the header. Does not matter which header. It'll happen with stock headers too if you road race in FL summer or COTA during the summer like I do. MOVE THE HARNESS If you have OEM motor mounts, the engine will move around a bit and the headers will lightly tap things. Most guys on here will deny it, but have them turn everything off and close the exhaust valves, you'll hear it and might even feel it. BMR motor mounts seems to be the way to go. My steering shaft has a plastic sleeve that is slowly melting away. There is a bolt in the middle of the shaft that will bang against the header as well. Buy a shorter button-head bolt for clearance. Get better ceramic wires. MSD or Katech. Do NOT get boots/sleeves. You don't need them. They actually trap heat on specific cylinders from the geometry. I ceramic coated all the way back because the rear diff cooler lines run along the exhaust. Jet-hot on the longtubes, Polydyne the rest of the way. Lastly, wrap the front brake lines, see if you can move the passenger front brake line. My recommendations for ANY headers on our camaros __________________

07-03-2025, 02:19 PM	#43
bishopts Drives: 2017 2ss 6mt Join Date: Mar 2024 Location: dallas Posts: 944	Just to add info here, i have speed engineering headers, since they don't have a flex coupler of any type , the xpipe cracked in the center of the x from normal engine flexing.

07-09-2025, 03:09 PM	#48
DeuceCam Drives: LT1 Join Date: Apr 2024 Location: AZ Posts: 301	^Yikes! That's unacceptable for what they cost.

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