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#15 |
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Lover of Speed
Drives: 2018 ZLE Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Phoenix
Posts: 274
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I've been running Motul 600 for over a decade and I do about 15+ track days a year with no issues. I usually flush at the start of the year and bleed midway and maybe at the end depending on the tracks.
Don't let them scare you off, Motul is just fine. Regardless of the fluid, if you have bad braking habits, then any fluid will boil. I see a lot of new track guys getting on the brakes way early and riding them thru the braking zone which starts to overheat things. Additionally, PTM will heat up the rears a lot if you are ham fisting it and it is constantly engaging.
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Killer Whale Racing
2021 One Lap of America Track Videos 2019 One Lap of America Track Videos 2017 One Lap of America Track Videos 2022 Ram TRX 2018 Camaro ZL1 1LE 2020 Range Rover Sport SVR (Sold) 2014 Grand Cherokee SRT (Sold) 2014 Camaro Z/28 (Sold) |
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#16 |
![]() Drives: 2016 2SS blue velvet w/blk stripes Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Tulsa, OK
Posts: 49
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Wow thats great ill check it out!
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Current mods. Rotofab CAI, Speed Engineering Long Tube Headers and plug wires w custom tune. Shock tower brace, ground effects, OEM brake air ducts and splash gaurd delete, 275/315 tires on 10 and 11 inch MRR wheels.
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#17 |
![]() Drives: 2019 ZL1 "1LE" | 16 SS | 2017 F30 Join Date: Dec 2021
Location: Europe
Posts: 109
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Motul RBF 600 is the best in terms of highest boiling point if fluid is free of water or fresh.
Castrol SRF is close, but both are high tier. I personally use a "mid" tier for a lot less money and fairly high boiling point of >500°F. Just fine as well on track, even with frequent high speed braking. 160+ mph -> 25. The stock pads overheat way before you are able to cook the brake fluid. Most importantly is to keep it fresh, so 1-2 changes each year. (depending on use and weather)
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Callaway SC750 ZL1, DIY 1LE with added OEM 1LE Wheels, DSSV Suspension and 1LE Aero, FEA front control arms, DIY oil cooler, CWA 150 pump, bigger intercooler, BMR lockout kit, CTSV Brake Air Deflectors, Smooth idle cam, LS7 lifters, CHE trunnion bushings. Tuned by JRE
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#18 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2023 Chevrolet Camaro 2SS 1LE Join Date: Jan 2020
Location: Pennsylvania
Posts: 1,599
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If you don’t want to bleed before every event or during the season I’d just switch to castrol. I had the same thing happen to me that poster number 5 had happen however I’ve learned not to do a cool down lap. It literally gets firm again by the next corner. Still, I don’t like that the pedal gets momentarily soft so I am switching to endless rbf650. I think that’s also a fluid that doesn’t require changing that often. Motul requires bleeding during the season.
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Current: 2023 2SS 1LE
Prior: 2016 Camaro 1SS 2007 Mustang GT 2008 Civic Si |
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#19 | |
![]() Drives: 2021 Camaro 1SS 1LE Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Virginia
Posts: 406
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Quote:
I have since progressed down the list to RACE
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#20 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2023 Chevrolet Camaro 2SS 1LE Join Date: Jan 2020
Location: Pennsylvania
Posts: 1,599
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I was in sport 1 as well but my calipers are still red. Looks like we had two different things happen then and you definitely needed to do the cool down. I think in my case the fluid was just getting more compressible as it was getting hotter which I was reading happens more with castrol versus endless. One of the posters in this thread had told me that about castrol as well.
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Current: 2023 2SS 1LE
Prior: 2016 Camaro 1SS 2007 Mustang GT 2008 Civic Si |
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| Tags |
| boiling point, brake fluid, track day |
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