[w123luke]

So, with the recall and GM recommending 0w-40 for all the 6.2 trucks and SUVs now, Mobil1 super car 0w-40 is out of stock or price hiked in a lot of places. I'm not quite there yet but my oil change is coming up and I am looking at alternative oils for my car. Anyone got any recommendations? One that has caught my eye is Pennzoil's SRT 0w-40, in theory its designed for a similar engine as the LT1 and its also way cheaper at about $7 a quart. One other is Amsoil 0w-40. This stuff looks way nicer than the Mobil 1 stuff but with a price tag to match.

[Rich292]

Short answer to your question would be to look for an oil with the appropriate weight and that has both an API SP or SQ rating and an ACEA A3/B4 or C3 rating. Appropriate weight would be generally anything from 0W to 15W on the cold side, and anything from 30 to 50 on the hot side, but you probably want to stick with 0W40, 5W40, or 5W50 in most cases. As always, consider your warranty when choosing an oil. Without dexos ratings, you always run the risk of a warranty rejection. Also, if you do choose a different oil, you would probably want to do an oil analysis to see if the oil life monitor still applies to the non-dexos oil of your choosing. It should, but it’s good to double check.

Either the Pennzoil Ultra Platinum or Amsoil options are probably good. However, they are far from your only options, and there are some caveats. For the Pennzoil, you would want an oil with a high temp high shear (HTHS) over 3.5. Most 40 weight oils have that, but not all of them do. I can’t find anything on the Pennzoil that gives me that spec. Just because it’s good for a Hemi doesn’t make it good for an LT, especially since the LT is DI. As far as Amsoil, they make a good product, but I have never found them to be worth the price and hassle of ordering oil.

If you’re interested in more detail, I’ve outlined my reasoning below:

These cars have had several different weights specced in different model years. Originally it was 5W30 dexos1 for street and 15W50 for track, then 0W40 or 5W40 dexos2 for street or track, and now 0W40 dexosR for street or track. Something to keep in mind is that the Mobil 1 Supercar 0W40 is only barely thicker than a 30 weight oil at high temperatures. However, it does have a HTHS that’s over 3.5. The reason they went to a 40 weight in the first place is to get that higher HTHS. The original 5W30 dexos1 oils have HTHS around 3.1, which is a little low on track. Most 40 weights meet the standard, but there are some 30 weight oils that do, too. For example, there is a Pennzoil 5W30 Euro oil that has a HTHS of 3.5. That oil is probably fine on track for a Camaro, but you do need to be careful which 30 weight you are choosing. Unfortunately, not all oil manufacturers publish the HTHS, so you need to find it in other ways with the oil specs as explained below.

On the cold side, I would be comfortable with a 0W or 5W in any temperature. I would also be fine with a 10W or 15W for a car that doesn’t see temps below 0*F, which is most of these cars. If you do see severe winter, stick with 0W or 5W. If not, the 10W or 15W will work fine. The oils with the higher winter weight (10W or 15W) do have some advantage in that they require less viscosity index improver additives, so they will usually shear less and maintain their hot viscosity better over time. That is just a generalization, though, and isn’t always true.

Getting an oil with an API SP or SQ spec is important on these cars. These two specs are oils designed for DI engines and have additive packs that help prevent low speed preignition and that reduce intake valve deposits. I would definitely want something with this spec if you aren’t using a dexos oil (the dexos oils all have similar requirements for LSPI and intake valve deposits). Don’t let the old timers fool you, either. Everything I’ve seen in testing shows that the new additive packs in the API SP oils are giving better protection than the older oils with higher levels of zinc.

If you want an oil that is also good on track, the ACEA specs should tell you that information. The first thing to know is that dexos2, which was the first oil that was specced for street and track use, basically mirrors the ACEA C3 specification. That spec requires HTHS of 3.5 or more. ACEA A3/B4 is a slightly older specification, but it has the same standards for wear, prevention of engine deposits, and HTHS. The newer C3 spec was designed to help keep gasoline exhaust particulate filters from getting clogged up, but since none of the Camaros ever had particulate filters, this isn’t an issue.

So, working through the specs, dexos2 was good for track use and is basically ACEA C3. The original dexos2 oil was Mobil 1 ESP Formula, which then was rebranded without any formulation changes into Mobil 1 Supercar, which is now dexosR. So, a dexos2 oil met the dexosR spec, and the dexos2 spec is the ACEA C3 spec, so that should be good. ACEA A3/B4 spec is basically the same as ACEA C3, but without the particulate filter protection that these cars don’t need.

You can confirm this line of thinking with the GM Dexos website. They recently added Mobil 1 ESP X4 and Mobil 1 FS to the DexosR approvals to help with the truck recall. Those oils are both API SP rated, and the ESP X4 is ACEA C3 and the FS is ACEA A3/B4. Those overlapping approvals should be a good stand in for dexosR.

Oils that have both API SP/SQ and ACEA A3/Br or C3 include most of the major brand Euro oils in 0W40, 5W40, and 5W50. Mobil, Pennzoil, Valvoline, and Castrol all have a variety of options.

If you want something that is not a Euro oil, then try to find something API SP or SQ and that you know has the HTHS over 3.5. There is always the Mobil 1 15W50 (it’s now API SP on the shelves, even if their website hasn’t updated yet). Castrol Edge 5W50 is good, too. The Pennzoil Ultra Platinum probably falls into this category, but I can’t find anything online that lists a HTHS number.

You can also find a number of boutique oils from Amsoil, Redline, Motul, and others. Usually the amount of money and effort to get those oils isn’t worth it, though.

[PowerDemon]

Great writeup with some very good information. Thank you.

I have seen Pennzoil very highly rated in some online tests. It is a shame they do not provide the HTHS.

[Capricio]

Originally Posted by w123luke

So, with the recall and GM recommending 0w-40 for all the 6.2 trucks and SUVs now, .

Not all. Not the early ones, which, coincidently (conveniently?), are past their warranty period or coming close to it. https://gmauthority.com/blog/2025/04...2020-vehicles/

[SnakeEyeSS]

Jegs, Summit, Speedway, supercar for normal price, But back ordered a few weeks

[cdrptrks]

Mobil 1 0W-40 ESP X4 was recently DexosR approved (backwards compatible with Dexos2); it seems to be readily available at AutoZone and perpetually on sale through their website if you buy in quantities of 5 with a filter (return or trash the filters): https://www.camaro6.com/forums/showt...6#post11481396

Also Mobil 1 FS 0W-40 was recently DexosR approved and should be available at Walmart in 5 quart jugs for about $25 but others have reported that the jugs in stock don't yet have DexosR printed on them.

[HankVA]

Originally Posted by SnakeEyeSS

Jegs, Summit, Speedway, supercar for normal price, But back ordered a few weeks

Thank you, just ordered from Summit.

[GreenZLE]

I just cant resist saying this: The factory apparently DOES NOT know what oil is best for your engine!!!!

[Ventmaster]

Just my 2 cents- Motul full synthetic currently at Amazon.com. 5-40w and very good oil at a very good price right now in stock:
https://www.amazon.com/Motul-8100-5W...80154905&psc=1

I've been using it for the last few yrs. Just ordered more- $85 for 2- 5litre jugs!
They've got 12 more in stock I believe.

[beowulf556]

Anyone use this oil? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09474K3JY..._asin_title_14

[2SS Capt]

Originally Posted by beowulf556

Anyone use this oil? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09474K3JY..._asin_title_14

Why??? $73 for 5 quarts is way more expensive than Mobil 1 Supercar Oil...

[KingLT1]

Oil is oil...you have 3 blends. Regular dino, blended, and Synthetic. Well, I guess you could say 4 with break-in oil. Either way, if it's API cert it doesn't really matter the brand. Changing the oil more frequently than the OLM suggests makes a much bigger difference vs oil viscosity. Direct Injection dilutes oil faster than port. Going longer than 5k miles before changing oil is the biggest issue. Gm is just making excuses with the suggestion for 0-40. I am not saying it's bad, but it's not doing anything more over 5w30. For a road course car where the engine is going to get the oil much hotter than street use, I could see a case for using 0-40. But this is really just a band-aid when they should be recalibrating the OLM systems and suggesting shorter oil change intervals imo.

[cdrptrks]

Originally Posted by KingLT1

Oil is oil...you have 3 blends. Regular dino, blended, and Synthetic. Well, I guess you could say 4 with break-in oil. Either way, if it's API cert it doesn't really matter the brand. Changing the oil more frequently than the OLM suggests makes a much bigger difference vs oil viscosity. Direct Injection dilutes oil faster than port. Going longer than 5k miles before changing oil is the biggest issue. Gm is just making excuses with the suggestion for 0-40. I am not saying it's bad, but it's not doing anything more over 5w30. For a road course car where the engine is going to get the oil much hotter than street use, I could see a case for using 0-40. But this is really just a band-aid when they should be recalibrating the OLM systems and suggesting shorter oil change intervals imo.

Do you have any evidence for these claims? Blackstone used oil analysis tests for my Camaro showed little difference in the physical properties (including TBN and fuel dilution %) between 5k mile and 7k mile oil change intervals and they actually recommended increasing my oil change interval to 9k miles!

I had Blackstone do a used oil analysis on a 7k mile oil change on my SS 1LE with unmodified engine (OLM showed 4% oil life remaining) with the original formula Mobil 1 ESP 0W-40 DexosR 2 oil including about 10 hours of track days. They said everything looked healthy and suggested trying a 9k mile oil change interval next time (but I didn't personally feel comfortable exceeding the OLM for warranty purposes). They found 0.5% fuel dilution vs. their maximum allowable recommendation of 1.9%.

I had them do another used oil analysis later with the newer formula Mobil 1 ESP X3 0W-40 at 5k miles including some track days and they suggested increasing the oil change interval to 7k miles with only a trace amount of fuel found and the viscosity, flashpoint, and TBN all being slightly higher than on the previous analysis.

[Rich292]

Originally Posted by KingLT1

Oil is oil...you have 3 blends. Regular dino, blended, and Synthetic. Well, I guess you could say 4 with break-in oil. Either way, if it's API cert it doesn't really matter the brand. Changing the oil more frequently than the OLM suggests makes a much bigger difference vs oil viscosity. Direct Injection dilutes oil faster than port. Going longer than 5k miles before changing oil is the biggest issue. Gm is just making excuses with the suggestion for 0-40. I am not saying it's bad, but it's not doing anything more over 5w30. For a road course car where the engine is going to get the oil much hotter than street use, I could see a case for using 0-40. But this is really just a band-aid when they should be recalibrating the OLM systems and suggesting shorter oil change intervals imo.

I am not so sure this is a safe assumption to make.

Even within the broad categories of oil, there is a lot of difference. That’s why we have all these different specifications, weights, and certifications. Those are not just marketing bunk. They exist for a reason and have real, substantive standards that an oil must meet to be included in that certification. I think the part that confuses people is that there is a lot of overlap between the standards. For example, ACEA A3/B4 aligns well with Porsche A40 and BMW LL01 oils, and those have a lot of the same durability requirements that GM wants in dexosR. ACEA C3 aligns more with Porsche C40 and BMW LL04, which have the same durability requirements but with an additive package that is more in line with new emissions equipment, so those specs align more fully with dexosR.

For Camaros that don’t have exhaust particulate filters, that portion of the spec doesn’t matter. I hunted around on the internet to find the dexosR specs and tests and compared them to the other specs and tests. Most of it lines right up, with some differences on emissions compatibility. But remember, dexosR isn’t just for Corvettes and Camaros. It has been up to this point, but dexos2 is being phased out this year and all gasoline engines that need more than dexos1 are getting moved to dexosR. Especially in overseas markets where exhaust particulate filters are more common. So dexosR covers the track ready oils for the Camaro, but also covers emissions controls for commuter SUVs. It’s not that these specs are meaningless marketing, it’s that the manufacturers want mostly the same things, so one oil meets multiple requirements.

Oil change intervals are also not too long. That’s not an issue except with respect to people not checking their oil levels during longer changes. The oil life monitor works. I’ve verified it with my own oil testing, and so have lots of people online. That system is remarkably accurate and has some safety factor built in. While it is true that DI engines have more fuel dilution, the oils that are made for DI engines (pay attention to those specs!) are designed to accommodate that. Also, I have noticed that my gen 6 Camaro runs hotter than my gen 5. That’s not by accident or because the gen 6 car was not designed well. It’s because that higher temperature burns off fuel that accumulates in the oil much faster and more reliably, so they don’t have as much fuel dilution.

I also don’t think the oil is a band-aid. In the case of the Camaros, there is a legitimate reason to move to a 0W40. That’s the high temp high shear viscosity (which is a big part of all those standards I just listed above). Regular 5W30 dexos1 oils are only about 3.0. Track work, especially on these cars with higher oil temps, needs at least 3.5 HTHS to be safe for the engine. Most 0W40 oils have it, the 5W30s generally don’t. By specifying the 0W40, GM takes out all the ambiguity in what oil will work for the car under all conditions. Lots of people don’t really read their owner’s manual, and lots of people take their cars to the track or drive them very hard on the road with an oil that was made with (legal) street driving in mind.

And I do believe that a lot of the failures we see on track are related to oil problems. Not that the oils GM specifies aren’t up to the task, but that lots of mistakes get made relating to oil changes on these cars. I’ve looked at a bunch of posts and I’ve seen some things that make me a little suspicious:

First, dealer oil changes are dangerous. I’ve never had a dealer do one, but I called around to a few asking about pricing. There seems to be two tiers of pricing at dealers. Some around $150, some closer to $250. That pricing is a little suspicious because you can’t even buy the Supercar oil at the dealer for $150, but they are going to use that oil, plus give me a filter, plus labor for that? What’s really going on is those dealers are putting 5W30 in the cars.

People at the dealer don’t keep up with the current specs or anything that changes, especially since most of the oil changes are done by porters and not mechanics that pay more attention. I’ve seen dealers only put 8 quarts in instead of 10. I even saw one dealer do 6. (I test drove a used gen 6, and while we were talking pricing, they gave me a sheet with all the things they did to service the car. One line item listed an oil change and 6 quarts. I went and checked the car, sure enough, the dipstick was dry.) Why? Because the older versions of the car always needed 8 quarts of 5W30, so they repeat the process. And you know they aren’t checking. If they pulled the dipstick they’d see it was dry. They just go through the motions and give you back your car. And no, the oil cap won’t save you. On my gen 5 Z/28 I had to argue with a service manager that it needed synthetic oil when I stupidly took it to the dealer. He insisted that the oil cap saying Mobil was just marketing because Mobil paid for the oil caps. The fact that the car has a dry sump LS7 was meaningless to him because he thought of the mid 1990s Z28 that he was familiar with from 25 years prior.

I’ve also seen a bunch of problems on oil filters with these cars. First there was the issues with putting the older style filter on (identical on the outside, but a different bypass valve pressure). That seems to have been resolved by clarifying that the PF64 is the right filter. But I can say I would not put that filter on my car in any circumstances.

There have been three variations on that filter over the years. There was the original that GM put on the C7 Corvettes that had some early engine failures. They said it was from flashing coming off the filter and going through the system. They changed the filters to a better design. Now they have changed the design again a few years ago (around 2021, which is when we started seeing more failures in the cars, interestingly enough). If you go look at a new PF64, the center hole has a flange around it. On every single one I’ve looked at, the flange is poorly made. There’s cracking around the flange opening, there’s metal shavings that are either sitting there or loose, or flashing that can come off. If that comes off, it’s on the clean side of the filter, and it can run through your engine and spin a bearing. And it will be totally random. Maybe the flashing doesn’t come off, maybe it gets pushed through the oiling to a benign part of the system and falls into the pan where the filter gets it, or maybe it goes to a bearing and spins it. I won’t use that style (a central spout style) on any of my cars.

I would not be surprised to find that lots of the engine failures are related to one or more of the things above. Either the wrong oil and an owner doesn’t know because they assumed the dealer used the right oil, that the oil level isn’t correct because the dealer workers didn’t know the car now takes 10 quarts (and by the way, I test drove the one with 6 quarts and nothing came up on the dash to tell me), or using a PF64 filter that lets metal run through the engine.