[Annihilate]

Hello everybody,

Going to be doing a full fluid service and I just want to confirm a few things, primarily with the transmission.

Firstly, will a Slippery Pete be sufficient to fill both the diff and trans fluid?

Secondly, I have seen some people say that draining the trans fluid from the temperature sensor is the quicker/cleaner way to get the fluid out. Is there any downsides to this method, or anything I should keep an eye out for?

This will be my first time touching this car mechanically (4500 miles) and I want to make sure I am thorough about these fluid changes.

There are some threads claiming that the oil level should be 1/8" below fill plug hole.

I have seen a thread that states Tremec themselves (Post #14) say to fill until it drips out of the fill hole.

Also I purchased the High Performance stuff from Tremec, hopefully this is appropriate.


Looking for clarification on this from some that have done it both ways.

Nextly, does anyone have the torque ratings for the sensor to be removed? I found that the plugs appear to be at 20ft/lbs. I did purchase some thread sealant (hope this will suffice) as well.

Moving on to the diff, other than the standard drain and fill, anything I should look out for? I purchased 64oz of the Dexron LS 75W-90 Gear Oil for this job, if this is incorrect please let me know.

I read the plugs should be torqued to 24ft/lbs (post #8) but this was for a 2017, please let me know if this is different for a 2024.

Finally for the Oil I purchased this Mobil 1 Supercar 0w-40 with the PF64 filter. I purchased 2 cases as I believe it will take the better part of 10 quarts. I allowed the dealer to do my first oil change, and even though I specified to use this oil, I have no guarantee they did, and I also don't believe they added enough.

If there is any specific process other than the standard oil change procedure, let me know. (18ft/lbs for drain plug)

I will also note that I will be doing these fluid changes before starting the car for the first time of the season. Will that be a problem?


Hopefully I am not missing anything as I will likely tackle this on the next nice day, the weather in Michigan has been quite unruly and inconsistent.

Thank you for those who take the time to stop by!

[N Camarolina]

Firstly, will a Slippery Pete be sufficient to fill both the diff and trans fluid?

The current fluid is bottled in 38mm widemouth bottles, so you'll need a pump that fits those. Your proposed one doesn't. It's been a problem for me too, as I bought my pumps when the bottles had the narrower, "standard" openings and now my pumps don't fit the new bottles. I had to keep an empty old bottle and transfer the fluid to it with a funnel before attaching the pump. I'll need to buy new pumps for the widemouth fitting.

Secondly, I have seen some people say that draining the trans fluid from the temperature sensor is the quicker/cleaner way to get the fluid out. Is there any downsides to this method, or anything I should keep an eye out for?

That is what most of us are doing, so that you don't have to remove the trans brace to get reasonable access the drain port. Be advised though that you'll need to use a fix sized wrench or crescent wrench to remove the sensor port (you can't put a socket over the end of it). This also means if you want to torque it properly for the reinstall, you'll need a crow foot to place on your torque wrench - set at 90 degrees relative to handle so that torque is applied accurately. To remove the fill plug (do this first before removing the drain plug!!), you'll need a 1.5" wratchet extension because the trans cooler line is close proximity. It's a tight fit. 1" extension is too short (won't clear the trans cooler line) and 2" is too long (socket wrench assembly won't fit in the trans tunnel).

There are some threads claiming that the oil level should be 1/8" below fill plug hole.

I have seen a thread that states Tremec themselves (Post #14) say to fill until it drips out of the fill hole.

Also I purchased the High Performance stuff from Tremec, hopefully this is appropriate.


Looking for clarification on this from some that have done it both ways.

I'm trying to follow the 1/8" rule. The first time I did it I filled to point of running out of hole and then withdrew fluid until it was at 1/8" below. But it's a real PITA to measure the level. So instead, I measured the volume of fluid (= 8oz) it takes to raise/lower that last 1/8" and simply subtract that from the amount it took to get the fluid up to fill hole (3 Qts + 20 oz) to figured out how much fluid is required to get it to the desired level (3 QTs + 12 oz). If you are using a hand pump straight from the bottle, you can simply pump in 3 full QTs (get small remainder out of one bottle by draining into the next) and on the 4th bottle, pump in 12 oz (fluid remaining in bottle should be up to the 20 oz marking on the side of the bottle).

Nextly, does anyone have the torque ratings for the sensor to be removed? I found that the plugs appear to be at 20ft/lbs. I did purchase some thread sealant (hope this will suffice) as well.

Your thread sealant looks fine. Follow directions on the packing about how many threads, how far around each tread, and how far from start of thread to place the sealant.

Moving on to the diff, other than the standard drain and fill, anything I should look out for? I purchased 64oz of the Dexron LS 75W-90 Gear Oil for this job, if this is incorrect please let me know. I read the plugs should be torqued to 24ft/lbs (post #8) but this was for a 2017, please let me know if this is different for a 2024.

That's correct. Nothing has changed. Remove the fill plug first. Fluid will flow much more smoothly from drain plug hole if air can get from the fill hole.

Finally for the Oil I purchased this Mobil 1 Supercar 0w-40 with the PF64 filter. I purchased 2 cases as I believe it will take the better part of 10 quarts. I allowed the dealer to do my first oil change, and even though I specified to use this oil, I have no guarantee they did, and I also don't believe they added enough. If there is any specific process other than the standard oil change procedure, let me know. (18ft/lbs for drain plug)

Nothing special. You'll need 10 full QTs, maybe a bit more depending on where you want it on the oil stick hash marks (middle for regular road driving, top for track driving). Put oil on the new filter gasket before you install it and only hand tighten (1 turn from when it first makes contact) to ensure you can get it off next time. It won't come loose until you want it to, but you won't run the risk of tearing the old filter apart when you have to remove it.

I will also note that I will be doing these fluid changes before starting the car for the first time of the season. Will that be a problem?

No problem with this. I do my maintenance on "cold" fluid normally.

[Annihilate]

Originally Posted by N Camarolina

SNIP

Thanks for all the good information...

Just finished the oil and rear diff, about to tackle the trans fluid.

Only thing I am slightly worried about is under filling. Is there any way to tell if you don't have enough fluid when you're on the road? I would feel like a little more would be better than a little less as far as letting it pour out of the fill hole goes.

[wakespeak]

If using the Tremec fluid you don't need to worry about getting it under the fill by 1/8". The Tremec fluid doesn't expand when hot like ATF so you're fine just filling to the fill hole until it drips out. Have a beer and let it stop dripping, then put the fill plug in.

If using ATF this still works unless you get the fluid hot with track driving or similar. In that case it will burp it out of the vent hole and you'll have a teaspoon or so under it in the garage for a few weeks in diminishing amounts.

I drain every season out of the temp sensor. I put some high temp sealant on. Using the sealant just snug it up until it essentially stops, don't torque it.

In terms of the oil, you have the right stuff for street driving. It may or may not show low on the dip stick with 10qts. I find draining on an angle gets more out, but not completely sure. After driving, a burst to high revs to open up the high pressure in the variable pressure pump may also drop the level in my experience.