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Old 01-29-2025, 06:29 AM   #57
Z OH 6


 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZLElvira View Post
Well I screwed up... I finally changed my Green Belt after having it sit on the hook in my trailer for six months, and to make it easier, I decided to upgrade my RotoFab to the Big Gulp, so back to the dyno I go on Saturday. Anyone in ATL area is welcome to join me, I will order Pizza and bring the beer. Send me a DM and let's have some fun with this!

THEN... I will Dragy this Bee'yotch!
Better yet, go dyno it on a proven accurate dyno. If you're in the Atlanta area, Vengeance Racing is in your area.
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Old 01-29-2025, 07:50 AM   #58
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Better yet, go dyno it on a proven accurate dyno. If you're in the Atlanta area, Vengeance Racing is in your area.
I know Ron... I have his cell. He stops in at Moonshiner's all the time for lunch where my GF is the Manager there. He also knows our Dyno and would tell you he doesn't need to waste my time to make you guys happy.

Maybe I will start a thread on who makes the best Spark Plug Wires...

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Old 01-29-2025, 08:43 AM   #59
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Originally Posted by ZLElvira View Post
I know Ron... I have his cell. He stops in at Moonshiner's all the time for lunch where my GF is the Manager there. He also knows our Dyno and would tell you he doesn't need to waste my time to make you guys happy.

Maybe I will start a thread on who makes the best Spark Plug Wires...

Well this thread got derailed, as do most of the threads that you post in...
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Old 01-29-2025, 09:52 AM   #60
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Originally Posted by ZLElvira View Post
I know Ron... I have his cell. He stops in at Moonshiner's all the time for lunch where my GF is the Manager there. He also knows our Dyno and would tell you he doesn't need to waste my time to make you guys happy.

Maybe I will start a thread on who makes the best Spark Plug Wires...

You're right, you don't have to do anything to prove anyone wrong. We all know the truth, having a third party test your car on a proven dyno would answer the mail but if you have no interest in that, that's cool too. Doesn't bother me at all, you're just not convincing anyone here that your car is making 790whp with the mods you've listed so far. As long as you're cool with that, then we are too. No one is trying to discredit your reliability mods but all we're saying is that your dyno numbers aren't accurate. Since dyno's are tuning tools, it really doesn't matter much if you're simply trying to track changes.

Last edited by Z OH 6; 01-29-2025 at 11:08 AM.
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Old 01-29-2025, 10:56 AM   #61
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I'll bet if you call up Ron and ask him how much rwhp he expects from an LT4 with an intake, exhaust, 9.17 pulley, and e40, he's not going to say anywhere close to 790.

Then you can tell him that you have figured out something with the tuning that Mike, Branden or Howard haven't been able to figure out after spending the last decade tuning a combined thousands of LT motors, with both GM ECM's and standalones.
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Old 01-29-2025, 01:49 PM   #62
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Going back to the original post, I would love to know what the difference between the standard port and the X port is, and see what the RPM difference is to get there, as Im one that doesn't want to spin my engine to 6500 plus and wants only 650 or so to the wheels.

I like the idea of keeping the torque greater than chasing max effort pulls.

I hope my build gets me there:

Standard Kong port
E40 ish
Ported TB maybe a 103
and possibly headers.

So hopefully someone out there can tell us what the difference is on a mild build as we all agree on max effort builds, the X port is the way to go.


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Old 01-29-2025, 01:55 PM   #63
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Originally Posted by cajunzl1 View Post
Going back to the original post, I would love to know what the difference between the standard port and the X port is, and see what the RPM difference is to get there, as Im one that doesn't want to spin my engine to 6500 plus and wants only 650 or so to the wheels.

I like the idea of keeping the torque greater than chasing max effort pulls.

I hope my build gets me there:

Standard Kong port
E40 ish
Ported TB maybe a 103
and possibly headers.

So hopefully someone out there can tell us what the difference is on a mild build as we all agree on max effort builds, the X port is the way to go.


Cajun
If 650whp is your goal, there's NO reason to use the X port. In fact, I'm not sure you're going to be able to get enough fuel with the standard port using E40. Most people that go E40-E50 on the stock fuel system leave the blower alone.
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Old 01-29-2025, 02:35 PM   #64
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Originally Posted by Z OH 6 View Post
If 650whp is your goal, there's NO reason to use the X port. In fact, I'm not sure you're going to be able to get enough fuel with the standard port using E40. Most people that go E40-E50 on the stock fuel system leave the blower alone.
Umm have you not heard if you use ZLEs dyno that will put him at least to 900 at the wheels
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Old 01-29-2025, 02:56 PM   #65
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my thinking was to get the most out of running 93 via the port job, Rotofab, 103mm or 95mm and maybe headers and tickle it corn if there was any supporting fuel left..
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Old 01-29-2025, 03:12 PM   #66
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Originally Posted by cajunzl1 View Post
my thinking was to get the most out of running 93 via the port job, Rotofab, 103mm or 95mm and maybe headers and tickle it corn if there was any supporting fuel left..

Stock blower, 2.3 upper(8% OD or equivalent lower) ported 87mm TB, Green drop in filter, Flex Fuel at E50, JMS low side booster, headers. This will make the car a torque monster and still deliver your HP goal up top.
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Old 01-29-2025, 03:21 PM   #67
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Thanks Mega.
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Old 01-29-2025, 11:07 PM   #68
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Originally Posted by RobZL1 View Post
I'll bet if you call up Ron and ask him how much rwhp he expects from an LT4 with an intake, exhaust, 9.17 pulley, and e40, he's not going to say anywhere close to 790.

Then you can tell him that you have figured out something with the tuning that Mike, Branden or Howard haven't been able to figure out after spending the last decade tuning a combined thousands of LT motors, with both GM ECM's and standalones.
Interesting... are you saying that Lingenfelter also has a defective dyno? They advertise 720 FWhp on just a pulley & rotofab with a tune on 93-pump. So I guess everyone is right this is impossible and that's cool.

https://www.lingenfelter.com/product/L250002017.html

CajunZL1
GEAUX TIGERS!!! LSU Alumni 1991!

Go ahead and get the port to clean up the blower, I have not done that yet but it is next on my list. My focus is road racing reliability, so I have focused my efforts on the non-traditional ways of making power. While there are some here skeptical of my results and our dyno numbers, its merely due to a lack of true understand what is holding the LT4 back from making all that it is capable of as delivered by the factory.

You can spin the blower harder, but expect the heat from doing so. By reducing the pressure and velocity inside the blower the mass will be increased as can be measured with the Banks iDash Datamonster. This will lower the air temps and if you have done other mods to reduce the thermal hit to your engine, the power will come.
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Old 01-30-2025, 06:18 AM   #69
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The link shows 720 Flywheel HP (FWHP), not wheel HP.
I was thinking you have been posting in the neighborhood of 790 wheel (not flywheel). It would take 900 flywheel (nominally) to get to 790 at the wheels.
I'll go back and reread. Makes a substantial difference
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Old 01-30-2025, 06:38 AM   #70
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Originally Posted by ZLElvira View Post
Interesting... are you saying that Lingenfelter also has a defective dyno? They advertise 720 FWhp on just a pulley & rotofab with a tune on 93-pump. So I guess everyone is right this is impossible and that's cool.

https://www.lingenfelter.com/product/L250002017.html

CajunZL1
GEAUX TIGERS!!! LSU Alumni 1991!

Go ahead and get the port to clean up the blower, I have not done that yet but it is next on my list. My focus is road racing reliability, so I have focused my efforts on the non-traditional ways of making power. While there are some here skeptical of my results and our dyno numbers, its merely due to a lack of true understand what is holding the LT4 back from making all that it is capable of as delivered by the factory.

You can spin the blower harder, but expect the heat from doing so. By reducing the pressure and velocity inside the blower the mass will be increased as can be measured with the Banks iDash Datamonster. This will lower the air temps and if you have done other mods to reduce the thermal hit to your engine, the power will come.
If you don't understand the basic difference between flywheel horsepower and wheel horsepower, you have bigger issues than we thought.
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