[Dardecor]

Originally Posted by dreksnot

I just had Hoosier Track Attack Pros (TW200) installed at the beginning of the month. I wanted something "better" than my Michelin P4S for autocross and was thinking good street tires. They appeared okay for the road but since they were new (and needed heat cycling) I didn't really get on it too much but ran them back and forth to work over a week, but wanted them ready for the upcoming event. A few Sundays ago I did some autoX with the Corvette club. Needing to say, I ended up just behind the lead Vette running on TW100 tires and seasoned driver (out of 24-ish drivers). Not bad for single "Metal" car in a plastic world. Plenty of pounding the tires on straights and traction was tight (I'm not 800whp (yet)). Verdict is still out on the Hoosiers as they're coming off today since freezing temps are coming here in CO but initial runs showed they'd hook hard nailing the throttle when 15-25mph.

I've been looking heavily at these tires. I know they're an endurance tire for the road course, but how do they hold up for the street? Im 650+whp and currently on R888Rs. Do they warm up enough on the street to go WOT and not hop into another lane? Im not concerned about rain or under 40 degree weather.

[Megahurtz]

I just pulled a 6.1 60-130 on them and they hooked up solid on the street.

[dreksnot]

Originally Posted by Dardecor

I've been looking heavily at these tires. I know they're an endurance tire for the road course, but how do they hold up for the street? Im 650+whp and currently on R888Rs. Do they warm up enough on the street to go WOT and not hop into another lane? Im not concerned about rain or under 40 degree weather.

I wish it wasn't so late in the season for nice street-driving weather - already in the 30's this morning on the way to work (didn't drive the ZLE and the TAPs are already off the car in storage). I didn't get enough time with the Hoosiers on the street; although, it didn't take very long for them to get warmed up and stick while autocrossing (my first run as very quick). I would presume these, as well as other tires like the Falken RT660 and Nitto 555G2, are superior on the street compared to the 888R and SC3Rs (SC3 might be good as well). As for wear.... don't have any idea yet.

[Dardecor]

Thanks yall for the feedback! My current tires probably will be done by the end of the year, so I'm going to try these out

[AZ_1LE]

Originally Posted by Joshinator99

You might be thinking of the original NT555R which was definitely the case. But the R2 has much better sidewall stiffness and I haven’t heard any complaints about the R2 sidewalls.



Agreed 👍

I agree that the R2 is better than the regular R for sidewall stiffness but again, it's just not as stiff/supportive as the PS4S and way softer than the SC3.

[Blackrat]

I ran the R2s on my fourth gen camaro for hpde events and while they handled lateral grip well I could break them loose even with 320 rwhp. I couldn't imagine them on a car with double the power. I later swapped to NT01s on that car and those had much better straight line grip with that car, so if I was choosing between the two nittos for my ZLE I would go for the latter. From what I remember the R2 was just their street drag tire compound with a stiff sidewall (which is two different ideologies fighting with each other) whereas the NT01 was designed from the ground up as a road racing tire. I have not ran either tire on my current car though, just relaying how they fared on my prior car.

[hawk02]

Originally Posted by AZ_1LE

I agree that the R2 is better than the regular R for sidewall stiffness but again, it's just not as stiff/supportive as the PS4S and way softer than the SC3.

I don't think the PS4S has enough sidewall stiffness for the weight of the ZL1.

After replacing the Goodyears with the PS4S is when my ZL1 started experiencing the rear-end wiggle. My 5BW came standard with the PS4S and it also has a wiggle. It's roughly 125 lb heavier than my previous ZL1.

Of course, the trade-off is the PS4S is significantly better in cold and wet conditions. I thought the Goodyears sucked below 50 degrees. And you held your breath if you got caught in the rain with them. But they did a better job keeping the backend straight.

[AZ_1LE]

Originally Posted by hawk02

I don't think the PS4S has enough sidewall stiffness for the weight of the ZL1.

After replacing the Goodyears with the PS4S is when my ZL1 started experiencing the rear-end wiggle. My 5BW came standard with the PS4S and it also has a wiggle. It's roughly 125 lb heavier than my previous ZL1.

Of course, the trade-off is the PS4S is significantly better in cold and wet conditions. I thought the Goodyears sucked below 50 degrees. And you held your breath if you got caught in the rain with them. But they did a better job keeping the backend straight.

I wouldn't say they "don't have enough sidewall stiffness" they're definitely rated well above what's required for the weight of the car. I went from SC3R's to PS4S's (1LE) and it's a pretty noticeable difference, but the car still feels like it's on rails, just doesn't have that harsh you-feel-every-pebble-on-the-road feeling anymore which is kind of a relief.

[Blackrat]

Can someone clarify what the wiggle is? I noticed the back end start to wag a little when doing a hard 1-2 or 2-3 shift on the street but I assumed that was the eLSD and traction control doing its best to keeping her pointed in a straight line due to lack of traction. The characteristics of the car on track were much different with PTM activated as the tires were heated up and the surface offered better grip .

[gblaue]

i don’t know if any of you have checked this, or know about this, but there is a ride height calibration mode that I found was off in my car. My drivers rear wheel was measuring off compared to the other 3 corners. After completing the calibration, the car got a lot less squirrelly.

[clg82]

Originally Posted by gblaue

i don’t know if any of you have checked this, or know about this, but there is a ride height calibration mode that I found was off in my car. My drivers rear wheel was measuring off compared to the other 3 corners. After completing the calibration, the car got a lot less squirrelly.

Soooooo any insight onto how to get said calibration?

[hawk02]

Originally Posted by AZ_1LE

I wouldn't say they "don't have enough sidewall stiffness" they're definitely rated well above what's required for the weight of the car. I went from SC3R's to PS4S's (1LE) and it's a pretty noticeable difference, but the car still feels like it's on rails, just doesn't have that harsh you-feel-every-pebble-on-the-road feeling anymore which is kind of a relief.

Differences in sidewall stiffness may not be as noticeable on the 1LE since it has solid bushings.

Your comment about not feeling every pebble on the road with the PS4S confirms my point that the sidewall isn't as stiff.

[gblaue]

Originally Posted by clg82

Soooooo any insight onto how to get said calibration?

I assume the calibration can be performed with most any bidirectional OBDII diagnostic tool. I have an Xtool D8BT. If you go into the chassis control module, you can perform diagnostics, readback live data, and perform calibration.
You have to have the car sitting on perfect level ground, with no additional weight in the vehicle. It will tell you what the voltage is being read back from each ride height sensor. Then, you have the option to calibrate them. Mine were something like .35, 3.5, 3.5, 2.1

[clg82]

Hmm interesting.