[clg82]

Buy once cry once. Do it right the first time.

[christianchevell]

Well thanks for confirming what I thought its a 2300 in the PIC..at least someone said something useful. And I thank you for that. Yes I have to get ahold of Lingenfelter or just figure out which port on the 2300 it is. I got the kit now it showed up today and has three varied size T fittings which of course like the two different barbs are not needed unless adapting..I want to try this low volt approach for the little extra bump for now. Getting answers even form the shop you buy stuff from is like pulling a tooth and lots of things have no Instructions...thank god some do.... I am sure I can figure it out, its just Knowing that someone out there has done it before and could say hey.... And frankly Lots of boostapumps look alike they are just what they are... Fins on a box... And ones many years ago looked that way... unfortunately i have to wait for a answer to my question..... And have looked at lots of internet its mind numbing searching...MEH

[RobZL1]

I don't know why I'm going to bother here, but not all boost a pump boxes look exactly like the JMS and even say JMS on them in the Lingenfelter instructions.

Regarding the Hobbs switch installation, it might be worthwhile to also read this:
https://jmschip.com/content/PowerMAX...al_v11_WEB.pdf

Regarding the boost reference location, there is a capped port on the driver's side near the coolant hoses. See photo.

[christianchevell]

Nice that might be the reference port I can use, Thank you!!!!! I finally got a guy from Lingenfelter on the Phone.. He admitted they don't hide its JMS built to different standards, and he does not have a 2650 sitting around; and the photo for the install was a 2300 Heartbeat TVS and I would have to ask Magnuson where to connect the reference hose.... SO that's my next wait, and Maybe I should have just bought the regular JMS as its made to be Universal so he said...MEH..........

So Gathering things to get the job done is dang near complete, just got my coils and wires, I just wonder if my Tuner will have time to even go from the stock tune Magnuson 2650 tune to an install of the 103 and Big Gulp and the new lid also.... SO I may just have to call Jannetty and see if they could send me a tune to use with the RDP..which is all new to me, I know RDP does tuning I think and a few others, its hard to get people on the phone more on the west coast unless during work..... SO I do thank those that have helped to get me to where I am just getting to know a little more and hope this may someday be seen by others as to whats what..... I will look this thread back up to put what I have learned in it hopefully soon...... And imagine I will try to sell my old supercharger on Ebay and here... Could not imagine with the rotofab it not moving with the lower pulley, valve covers, Throttle body ,coils , wires, etc it would not move for say...1700$ ?

Thanks for the install instruction switch the hobbs switch thats basically what this one uses but thats a older model of Booster and more power...I don't want to turn the power up much and be safe for a lifetime of daily driving on the fuel pump since its so expensive and buried in the supercharger unless I am going to go cam and then thats a investment and going somewhere....

Still no one has used this particular one but hey someone has to be the first to use something and help others ;;may the force be with you ....a hot rodding thing... like NHRA....

My Tuners old, does not want to drop the cradle to install a cam, I have dreamed of going to livernois or lingenfelter as my wifes from Deluth, but a long road trip to drop off and pick up vacation (and we have five dogs and two cats) would be crap without the wife cause its her family out there... No one we trust to dog sit etc...

so I would most likely have to have it trailered and spend even more .... Around here in Oregon not so much for good Tuners/installers I find online. Someone with the Camaro club here suggested people in Albany and so read on who that may be and reviews and ....Someone said Run away from them so >>..No they are not touching my Car.... I would rather do a long distance tune and just stay bolt on and that appears what I may have to do, but ungodly horsepower for a daily is not so much needed... I like having it in one piece and use it in the rain and such always. Well rambling on here, thanks for the help those of you who did. Anyone who knows someone good in Oregon or Washington let me know I read up on lots of Washington also, and not so much out there like some places and reviews....MEH

And though I trust the Inmate mechanics we are training nothing makes up for Experience when it some times comes down to the little things when doing a build and just book learning and remote help and sometimes supervision. well that's a liability both for the shop and me especially. I used to do my old Chevy's in my sleep with the EOIC method for setting the valve lash, and liked Edelbrock etc... Now I am older and not so wanting to chance anything too much.... SO I am glad to have good instructions online and printouts and help with things that are not to overly complicated and have made notes all over the instructions for the this and that from my experience and do welcome help. But criticism sucks ...save it for the parts, Personal attacks are not warranted and why many people just don't want to deal with being in anything like a social media platform, because its so damn easy to insult online, and another thing to do it in person entirely. SO chill out is good advice, I would like a chiller... Spendy little items for the Camaro but hey nice....



Update finally opened the box and packing, and yes the last Person to post is right the Reference ports are the two places next to the drivers side cooling bungs. Its shown on flyer for Torque specifications they stick in the plastic along with some LT1 specific pieces also like the MAP ..Step number 6 shows the ports when removing the coolant manifold assemblies...bungs So that answers my question , and now I wonder why the paperwork says Magnum DI tvs2650 and not just 2650r..LOL oh well its Beautimous and Heavy, and its a first for me at my age. And I hope maybe Jannetty can set me up remote tuning and I may be able to skip having it site tuned for a while..because it would be nice to add the new lid, the snout, and 103, and Big gulp all at once ......And waiting for months sucks for a Dyno tune.....
And on step 15 it shows the IAT in a upside down photo of the charger, and I believe that may have been the one I saw relocated once online in a video from a guy who compares the various blowers and then installs the 2650 on his Camaro in his nice House garage..Dang wish i had saved it I will have to find it again as he said it makes for more accurate readings....?