[Joshinator99]

Originally Posted by 2023_ZL1-AUTO

hehe... just +1'ing your post bro !!!

[arpad_m]

Originally Posted by RobZL1

Yep, agreed. That's what all of us have done.

To the OP, we're just trying to give you honest advice based on what we know works, with countless examples, to prevent headaches before you install this stuff and can still possibly go another route if you decide to follow our advice.

Also, if you do install this per the Lingenfelter instructions and use the boost reference instead of the pedal activation, PLEASE do not wire it the way they wired it in their instructions. Follow one of the many threads here instead, and put it in the driver's side of the trunk, and tap into the large wire going directly into the FPCM, and NOT the small gauge wires going to the fuse box as shown in the Lingenfelter instructions.

EDIT: here's the one you want, in my opinion:
https://jmschip.com/product/fuelmax-p2000gmp2/
it's possible you could just add the pedal harness if the base electronic unit is the same, too.

Doesn't happen too often anymore, but occasionally I still wish this forum had a like button. This is one of those times.

[Megahurtz]

The LPE allegedly bypasses the FPCM according to its documentation. Reason being it claims you can boost the fuel pump more than you could if you used the FPCM. The FPCM can only handle about 17.5v before it starts to misbehave, so by bypassing it you theoretically can run 19v to the pump and go further than you could on the JMS even though the hardware is the same.

Now I would assume that the FPCM would still have to command the pulse signals but the pump would just see 19volts? I'm curious how that would work. Maybe it just does?

But anyhow, yeah OP sure is sensitive.

[Booher]

Don't run shorty headers either, it's not worth it.

[christianchevell]

LOl Im not sensitive I just am old, I work hard and have lots to take care of....SOme assume some things they shouldn't like I don't do a lot of home work, my last 427 ls3 I built put out about the same mount of Catch can amount as what I have with this lt4, I am using a diverter for the PCV valve lots of people here may not use because you have to tear into the blower to install it and its not highly advertised......I think Mighty mouse sells one.....And read threads on here about this.... https://www.camaro6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=571895

The parts right next to the one I asked about many use and I also bought, but criticism of my choice in another part i am using...not what i asked for, sorry but I asked for help not criticism ....sure you can like another part better, apparently people saying its another brands booster renamed is frankly lazy research..... I like what I like, if its not the same I don't need to defend it I asked for help and since noone else used the product with piece of advice? Well a reason why some may not come here much... of course more than one place makes a product thats the beauty of the aftermarket
https://tracylewisperformance.com/se...ast&q=diverter


some may research first then look for help........ https://www.bing.com/search?pglt=43&...ANNTA1&PC=U531

I was just looking for a reference port or having to T off another line. So if i share some knowledge along the way or others share thats nice, but the question is all about what i wanted a answer for, and will just find out myself apparently. Thank you to the one guy who read the directions for listening not just assuming someone saying oh product X is rebranded product Y, or such..... Maybe someone will read what I have just included and get a PCV diverter and save themselves oil ingestion...maybe they won't.....

Frankly I think my Speed engineering ones will work for valve covers and look better than stock, and i already bought them and a lot more parts for this build with just some for apperance and some for function more than others, I imagine my DSX lid i just paid $1000 bucks for will look mice with my Grannettelli Zero OHM wires and my 85K coils in red like my car.... Thats my choice, I was just asking for info about what I needed info about. Not looking for Haters.

I may very well have been building Chevys before alot of you were born. And I am blessed to be alive. And the shorty headers with ceramic coating are cheap for me and look better with the bling right next to the Fugly shielded stockers.....Looking MEH..not so much something to show at a car show...and I have the BMR engine mounts so they should slide in easier and keep it cooler and I got them open box..... And I can have the inmates install them where I work..... And of course i read up on headers, If i ever go Full headers like my last ride with a pair of highflows it will be when I have to drop the cradle and have a cam installed along with every other mod like trunnions and timing cover and etc etc and then.......... So Anyone ever install one of these is what my title should have been?

[clg82]

Originally Posted by christianchevell

I may very well have been building Chevys before alot of you were born. And I am blessed to be alive.

Quite frankly you're missing the mark. There is a ton of useful information on this forum, from people that have gone through exactly what you're doing, finding out that it wasn't worth it and going the correct route afterwards. I think their just trying to help you not make the same mistake many of us have made before you. It sounds to me that you already purchased the parts thinking you knew what you were doing since you "worked on chevys long before we were born" and now are stuck with what you bought and that's ok too. I just hope you have the cash to redo it once you realize you should have listened in the first place.

[RobZL1]

Originally Posted by Megahurtz

The LPE allegedly bypasses the FPCM according to its documentation. Reason being it claims you can boost the fuel pump more than you could if you used the FPCM. The FPCM can only handle about 17.5v before it starts to misbehave, so by bypassing it you theoretically can run 19v to the pump and go further than you could on the JMS even though the hardware is the same.

Now I would assume that the FPCM would still have to command the pulse signals but the pump would just see 19volts? I'm curious how that would work. Maybe it just does?

But anyhow, yeah OP sure is sensitive.

Not to keep beating this horse, but it looks like it's still boosting the FPCM according to the instructions, both at the beginning and in the photos. They say why they are boosting the FPCM and not just the pump, and then they show splicing the wire to the FPCM in the trunk, instead of directly at the FPCM. So it looks like it's just a standard JMS boosting the FPCM, and given the amp draw and the smaller wire diameter, I wouldn't do it like this at the fuse block.

[christianchevell]

well I hope the thing works well anyway I did not want to over stress the fuel pump and thought about buying one of those 1500$ high pressure units which would be cheaper than the 2000+ unit and trying to avoid a cam because finding a installer other than myself with help and the can of worms that opens. I only have started to mod it recently and spent a ton on parts which keep showing up but hey, of course i am stuck with what I have most likely and thats stuff to sell in the parts section.

I just got my new lid dropped off a minute ago and its friggin Beautimous.....I am figuring i will not be having to stress the pump much and wanted to just make sure to cover the parts I have bought...the blower should with a 103 and big gulp and fair exhaust even with the stock cam make some pretty good numbers I think.....

I am in Salem Oregon and the only good Tuner around here I know is Tommy Wong in Vancouver and hes busy as anything..barely get him to say squat, and plan on a install stock ish and then go to him with the new lid, the 103 and Big gulp for a tune as hes over 65 and I don't know when he will retire and hes a electrical engineer..

Not me I am the carpenter old car dude. I earn a good living though and plan to work until I am 70 thanks to the Bidenconomy etc...And can see if I had to changing this and that a little...This is my daily driver... I have a scion xb a 2013 with 30k on it for a mom mobile for taking my 87 year old mom around when i have to from doctors etc... and the wife has a new 50+ MPG hybrid a Nero she just had to get one with paint like mine...

Hoped someone would notice I am selling the old supercharger complete as can be, with the lower pulley etc etc...Even have a dry Rotofab on it now to go with it I would let go and the coils and plugs etc etc Have some malificent of what ever coming from Grannetteli....

I was figuring from the instructions it would limit the amount of output to being a mild boost and be safe as I am just trying to not screw the pooch with the duty cycle and etc for the install of the blower and it may be a case of over worrying.

And have the cash..I have a 800 credit rating etc... And plan on wiring it just like they say and hope the electrical engineer will help me down the road as he really likes stuff from Lingenfelter and has done lots of builds from them in the past...Here I will show some of his stuff on his face book....

https://www.facebook.com/people/Wong...0063858510856/

So I am new here to the camaro 6 I sold my camaro 5's and got my dream car and just started researching parts and got the cash so hey, why not soup it up some and maybe go to the track someday..everyone always asks that and compliments it, and I wonder who originally bought the Camaro with all the options I wanted in Florida.....I found it with 6500 miles on it at Crater lake Ford...how it got there? why it had the parts on it it had must be cause they were a Camaro 6 Lurker or member that went bust in the pandemic or bought a vette? Had the E2x ultra with the PCV bypass and the Rotofab and maybe a tune? Likes to give awesome decel burble in the cold especially....

I know I am rambling on but wash really hoping someone had done this one mod as it seemed pretty safe not a pump frier .... SO for now I have done the black snake side stripes, total Red carbon fiber interior even with modified gen five stuff to make it more awesome, BMR trailings, toes, controls, endlinks, etc etc a Drive line shop one piece, speed engineering intercoolers, mesh to save radiator, billet thermostat and 160 housing, Big three ice tank, some stainless accents, removable license holder, 1le style wheels and dive planes and spoiler and paint protection, Borla Atak with dual mode that was $.... Think someday I may get the Carbon fiber print type rear spoiler as their cost is down...I did a HD vinyl over my down planes to make them look Carbon.

Basically just getting stuff until i got more to go into a new Magnuson as thats what Tommy recommended even though I was studying the 3 liter Whipple I found it hard to find good info, get a pic of the hood insert, and having to lower the cradle and then I read about things to mod on it right away compared to the Magnuson like the this and that it needed and just wen with the tried and true...2650...

So I am hoping to someday scour the place for those who have done the exact same mods as me but finding them online not so easy sometimes.... Thats why I did the magnuson belt post and listed all the belts for the 2650 hoping it would help people beside just me in the future to change pulley sizes and belt sizes.... And yes everything you read on the internet is not always true of course....

And anyway have to run , I figure just a couple more volts and little more for the pump may just be enough to help out the further mods like the LID and 103 and the Biggulp make it more awesome not be over doing it for wanting more fuel without a bigger cam and cam its fuel pump lobe helping and Say some fore pumps or Port injections etc.... My buddy the professor who trains the ASE mechanics teases me to not overdo it and blow the Trans like he said he saw on a utube Dyno...LOL But hey hes a Ford Mustang owner in the bright green not even the 500 Its a R .... And thanks for the help guys, but I still wonder whats the right way to hook up to which hose...LOL

Also there was this one guy with a internet show that had a different place to put the MAF on the Front of the 2650 have not seen that video yet, Forget the name but its was a better option to get better readings and I need to read up on more stuff when I have time....Its 90 out i need to go water..Chow

And yes I had my hands and face sort of blown up once in Germany for a few years in the cold war so I don't always type well.......Was a grunt guarding the Fulda gap, Static electricity blew up some Hoffmans I had in a dolly chain in my hands in a op order playing war waiting to attack the French foreign Legion and some signal company and Play blowing up a Bridge they made me carry a ANprc77 Radio in a wool uniform and someone keyed in a radio somewhere with them in my hands... Miss the German Beer...The Christmas beer especially...Lowenbrau over there... 2nd of the 13th infantry.....40 rounds.

[RobZL1]

I have those same basic mods (see signature) which is why I was chiming in.

I'm not sure why you'd relocate the MAF. Works fine where it is. I've heard mixed reviews on Wong. There are several guys who tune remotely on here that can set you up. KingLT1 and Megahurtz, as well as Jannetty.

[Megahurtz]

Originally Posted by RobZL1

Not to keep beating this horse, but it looks like it's still boosting the FPCM according to the instructions, both at the beginning and in the photos. They say why they are boosting the FPCM and not just the pump, and then they show splicing the wire to the FPCM in the trunk, instead of directly at the FPCM. So it looks like it's just a standard JMS boosting the FPCM, and given the amp draw and the smaller wire diameter, I wouldn't do it like this at the fuse block.

Ah you're right so it seems its just like the JMS but using the wire at the fuse block and vacuum instead of pedal signal. Looks like I browsed too quickly and missed the detail you highlighted.

To the OP: It's not a good idea to boost at the fuse block as we all already know. The resistance due to the smaller wire being so far away from the FPCM causes performance drop off when you hit the approx max of 17.5v that the FPCM can handle. I have first hand experience with this. You always want to boost as close to the FPCM as possible. And with the pedal signal an option, I don't get why anyone would want to use MAP signal.

There I beat the dead horse a little bit more for you lol.

[christianchevell]

This fuel pump voltage booster kit offers a fuel pump voltage setting of 15.5 volts. 15.5 volts is the
maximum we recommend for the stock 2016-2019 Camaro fuel pump and the factory fuel pump
controller. The production fuel pump controller monitors fuel pump voltage and current and could set
a diagnostic code at higher voltages and current loads.
Why are we voltage boosting the fuel pump controller and the fuel pump and not just the fuel pump.............. So its not going to 17 OK,its going to 15.5 and is a safer bet than some would say...so If you look at the page this is for sale on...whats next to it? why the low side check valve everyone is using......And ME....And if I am going to a Tuner I have used a couple times before with good results who happens to be a Lingenfelter certified installer? and Electrical engineer and I work with electricians and have a Professor supervising the install teaching mechanics... And its meant to theoretically operate at 85% in the instructions etc...

The words before the other words on the instructions matter, I believe in Lingenfelter and lots of other performance shops rely on their parts.

Thats what I am saying its a pretty safe bet and thats the horse I am riding if your not on it OK....I was looking for advice with what I am using, all I get is armchair guarterbacks and I have excellent help so I will stake That Lingenfelter is a good place and they make parts others use and this may just be the ticket...If not I will change it, but most likley not just with a Boostapump I chose the safest option I could find for one IMO. And Opinions are like what?

BTW I survived an Aortic Dissection a couple years ago and beat those odd of 200000 to one to be here. SO this dead horse has legs..........
Sorry I cant get Lingenfelter to explain this to you all....it was for me the safer bet reading the instructions and install for me when someday..I may not need it.... And they may be a little bit busy. Damn no one will ever answer my simple question.....LOL I should just let it go.

[arpad_m]

First of all, thank you for your service and heartfelt congratulations on surviving the aortic dissection surgery, you have pulled through some very serious stuff indeed

As you suspected, Lingenfelter's instructions apply to a Maggie 2300. You'll need to contact them and ask them what to do on the 2650.

Their instructions you quoted are very conservative saying 15.5V is the maximum safe value. I've had my JMS voltage booster set to 17.5V since 2018 with zero issues, initially with a stock LT1 fuel system, then using a ZL1 low side (and high side) fuel pump since 2021. This unit is installed in pedal mode, ie it connects to the accelerator pedal and ramps voltage in from this 0 to 5V reference source, ie it doesn't suddenly jump from 14.5 to 17.5V, so it's reasonably gentle on the fuel pump and the controller.

Overall I don't think Lingenfelter's (identically looking, very likely rebadged) pump has anything over this setup, they probably fixed the output to 15.5V instead of allowing you to set it from 14V to 18 or 22V like the JMS unit does. Pedal activation is much easier to install, too, unlike the boost reference mode that the Lingenfelter unit uses exclusively (it's also an option on the JMS), and it would save you much hassle.

All that said, it seems you've already purchased all your parts and don't intend to listen even to professionals here (I'm not one of them), so hopefully you can get Lingenfelter to provide you installation help with the 2650.

[18.2SS.1LE]

OP isn't looking for advice, only to be validated for the parts he bought. He's already got his whole team on his side from an electrical engineer to a Professor of mechanics. Build the car how you want it, learn some things along the way and post the results...

[Owl3]

Just remember an engineering team designed the oil pump, too!