[Joshinator99]

Originally Posted by JSH

Yeah, I didn't know the figures were that large, but the difference was immediately obvious when I turned on the pump. Thanks for posting the diagram.

FYI at 12 PSI of pump differential, that CWA400 flow performance looks to be spot on what the Stewart EMP pump does. Looks like a great selection.

[JSH]

Originally Posted by Joshinator99

the tubing, even if it’s a bit undersized.

Regarding undersized lines, why can't I just come off the tank outlet nipple with a -16 braided steel hose and clamp, or do I have to do a -16 double swivel and hose? here https://hpsperformanceproducts.com/p...43964156969212

[Joshinator99]

If the tank is a male NPT fitting I would not clamp a hose onto that. Use the swivel fitting and go from NPT on the tank to the appropriate hose connection. Likewise if your tank output is AN, same thing, just go from AN to the hose fitting. But a swivel will let you tighten the fitting up to the tank without twisting the hose.

[JSH]

Originally Posted by Joshinator99

If the tank is a male NPT fitting I would not clamp a hose onto that. Use the swivel fitting and go from NPT on the tank to the appropriate hose connection. Likewise if your tank output is AN, same thing, just go from AN to the hose fitting. But a swivel will let you tighten the fitting up to the tank without twisting the hose.

I can use a rubber hose right?

[Joshinator99]

Originally Posted by JSH

I can use a rubber hose right?

Yes. So with rubber hose (like heater core hose) then simply get an NPT-to-hose barb fitting (again assuming you have NPT connections at the tank). Put some appropriate hose clamps on you’re ready to go.

[JSH]

So, this project - Pierburg, header wrap, underhood water line insul., and better tank fittings is all about getting lower blower, engine, and water temps. Here's a pretty good comparison, but it never pulls any advance, or misfires, etc.

The first data is pre-mods, and the second is post-mods. I have a few more lines to insulate.

[JSH]

I've wrapped all water lines, including the engine coolant line, with DEI 3000 and now have my eye on the intake, TB, and SC inlet area. I've laid a piece of DEI 3000 on it simply as a placeholder. Has anyone seen a car with these areas insulated?

[Joshinator99]

Originally Posted by JSH

I've wrapped all water lines, including the engine coolant line, with DEI 3000 and now have my eye on the intake, TB, and SC inlet area. I've laid a piece of DEI 3000 on it simply as a placeholder. Has anyone seen a car with these areas insulated?

You might be reaching at items of diminishing returns in my humble opinion. Insulating the TB, intake, and inlet areas might actually make them heat soak worse since the 500 pound chunk of hot aluminum (your engine lol) attached to them will conduct heat to them that they will no longer be able to shed since they’re insulated. The small change in pre-blower IAT will have zero impact on post blower IATs which is what really matters. It would take a pretty healthy jump in pre-blower IATs to have any measurable impact on performance.

[JSH]

Originally Posted by Joshinator99

You might be reaching at items of diminishing returns in my humble opinion.

I agree. That's why I haven't gotten past just thinking about it. I'm now looking at a ram air intake snout.

[CamOnlyJabroni]

For this kind of test I would do three things to make sure all variables are the same.

-Ambient Temp Within a Couple of Degrees
-Drive The Car Around Enough to Heat Soak "Stop and Go Traffic Before Highway Pull"
-Do The Same Run "Looks Like You Ran Out 4th not 5th On the After Pull"

Not saying it didn't help. Will just help the test be more accurate is all IMO.

[JSH]

Originally Posted by CamOnlyJabroni

For this kind of test I would do three things to make sure all variables are the same.

-Ambient Temp Within a Couple of Degrees
-Drive The Car Around Enough to Heat Soak "Stop and Go Traffic Before Highway Pull"
-Do The Same Run "Looks Like You Ran Out 4th not 5th On the After Pull"

Not saying it didn't help. Will just help the test be more accurate is all IMO.

Wrapping the headers (actually blasting, painting, and DEI wrap) and all water lines have lowered engine compartment temps a lot. It's immediately noticeable when I pop the hood. I contacted Edelbrock and they didn't like the inlet/ snout insulation idea.

[JSH]

Originally Posted by Joshinator99

I bought a CWA-150 and it’s sitting in my garage. That’s definitely going in this winter. The Varimax isn’t cutting it IMO.

I put a CWA400 on it last month. Flow is much better. Still need to change outlet and inlet fittings.