[ember1205]

Originally Posted by N Camarolina

On the subject of Rev Match, I've been wondering......

The manual says it matches on both down AND UP shifts. I use Rev Match all the time and clearly see the computer raising the RPM on downshifts, but what does it do on the upshifts? Clearly you don't want to raise RPM on upshifts, so the only need for a RPM adjustment would be to lower RPM if you are going to skip shift. Buy I can't see a way for the computer to lower RPM by dampening it.

So does anybody know what it does on upshifts?

Do this...

When you're ready to shift from N to N+1, do exactly as you normally would. But... Hold the clutch in for a couple of seconds and you'll notice that the RPM's don't drop below the matched level.

You notice what it's doing on downshifts because there's no place to go but UP with regard to the RPM's. On an upshift, it's much more subtle because all it's doing is preventing the RPM's from falling too far if you're slow to let the clutch out.

[ZPirate]

Originally Posted by N Camarolina

On the subject of Rev Match, I've been wondering......

The manual says it matches on both down AND UP shifts. I use Rev Match all the time and clearly see the computer raising the RPM on downshifts, but what does it do on the upshifts? Clearly you don't want to raise RPM on upshifts, so the only need for a RPM adjustment would be to lower RPM if you are going to skip shift. Buy I can't see a way for the computer to lower RPM by dampening it.

So does anybody know what it does on upshifts?

Not sure exactly how the mechanicals/electronics work, but I suspect the rev matching on upshifts has to do with the car having the capability of no lift upshifts. No lift upshifts seem counterintuitive to me, at least in terms of how I learned to drive a manual, but the car can do it with rev match on.

[ember1205]

Originally Posted by ZPirate

Me too. The gear spacing is pretty broad in the Camaro compared to other manual transmission cars I've owned. Between the tall gearing the torque of the LT1 you don't have to shift as often as in cars with less displacement. I typically don't get past 4th when driving around town (around 50 mph). I'm typically in 5th gear in my Z at the same speed.

Your comment reminded me of an article I read a number of years ago about the Kawasaki ZX-10. The author said something to the effect of "get it up in 6th gear and drive it like an automatic."

[ember1205]

Originally Posted by ZPirate

Not sure exactly how the mechanicals/electronics work, but I suspect the rev matching on upshifts has to do with the car having the capability of no lift upshifts. No lift upshifts seem counterintuitive to me, at least in terms of how I learned to drive a manual, but the car can do it with rev match on.

I haven't tried this, but it's a fair point.

Question for those that have done it, especially if you have used a OBD tool while doing it and can comment with factual data... Does the rev-match "do" anything except prevent the RPM's from increasing when the clutch is depressed during a no-lift shift?

[Christian1LE]

Originally Posted by ember1205

I haven't tried this, but it's a fair point.

Question for those that have done it, especially if you have used a OBD tool while doing it and can comment with factual data... Does the rev-match "do" anything except prevent the RPM's from increasing when the clutch is depressed during a no-lift shift?

Not that I can tell. I think the only way to tell for sure would be to hold the clutch for like 2 seconds while doing NLS, that way you can see if it holds a certain RPM or just keeps cutting. I do think it does hold the correct RPM though.

[Zr8000]

Originally Posted by N Camarolina

On the subject of Rev Match, I've been wondering......

The manual says it matches on both down AND UP shifts. I use Rev Match all the time and clearly see the computer raising the RPM on downshifts, but what does it do on the upshifts? Clearly you don't want to raise RPM on upshifts, so the only need for a RPM adjustment would be to lower RPM if you are going to skip shift. Buy I can't see a way for the computer to lower RPM by dampening it.

So does anybody know what it does on upshifts?

It’s more so for drag racing. You can put your foot to the floor, leave it there and bang gears. It will keep the car from reving to the moon when you push the clutch in. Normal driving it probably isn’t going to do anything until you start beating on the car. The fast stick cars aren’t even doing that anymore. They bang the car off a set rev limiter, and shift it without using the clutch.

[Christian1LE]

Originally Posted by Zr8000

It’s more so for drag racing. You can put your foot to the floor, leave it there and bang gears. It will keep the car from reving to the moon when you push the clutch in. Normal driving it probably isn’t going to do anything until you start beating on the car. The fast stick cars aren’t even doing that anymore. They bang the car off a set rev limiter, and shift it without using the clutch.

Tend to disagree with this, I would say it's more for track use, less so if you're trying to be ultra competitive in drag racing. Like you said, in drag racing if people don't care about their clutch there is time to get gained by just shifting off the limiter and letting your transmission take the abuse. Can't do that on a road course and have your car last more than a few laps. But yes, NLS is certainly not for everyday driving, you have to be over a certain RPM for it to even be enabled.

[ember1205]

Originally Posted by Christian1LE

Not that I can tell. I think the only way to tell for sure would be to hold the clutch for like 2 seconds while doing NLS, that way you can see if it holds a certain RPM or just keeps cutting. I do think it does hold the correct RPM though.

I'm completely guessing here... If the green lines on the bottom-most section are indicating clutch in (line goes up) / clutch out (line goes down), and if only the second and third ones correspond with having the accelerator to the floor for NLS, then the ECU saying that the TPS shows like you aren't pressing the pedal at all, then I think that shows it does absolutely nothing with regard to the RPM's while the clutch is depressed.

In other words, it looks like it's telling the ECU that you lifted your foot completely off of the accelerator when you depress the clutch pedal, so the RPM's would fall "naturally" just like a regular shift without rev match.

But, again, just kind of guessing at how to interpret the data.

[Christian1LE]

Originally Posted by ember1205

I'm completely guessing here... If the green lines on the bottom-most section are indicating clutch in (line goes up) / clutch out (line goes down), and if only the second and third ones correspond with having the accelerator to the floor for NLS, then the ECU saying that the TPS shows like you aren't pressing the pedal at all, then I think that shows it does absolutely nothing with regard to the RPM's while the clutch is depressed.

In other words, it looks like it's telling the ECU that you lifted your foot completely off of the accelerator when you depress the clutch pedal, so the RPM's would fall "naturally" just like a regular shift without rev match.

But, again, just kind of guessing at how to interpret the data.

You're reading it wrong. The first and last "clutch = 1" is the NLS, the 2nd and 3rd are downshifts into T1. Numbers on the left of throttle correspond to full throttle where 100% = foot to the floor. It doesnt let the revs naturally fall as if you had your foot off the throttle, it cuts the engine(similar to traction control), except that if you hold the clutch pedal for too long it won't allow the car to just keep dropping the RPM's to 1k, it will hold it at 4.5k RPM or so for the next higher gear.

This is the lap that data comes from:

[L99BEN]

Originally Posted by ember1205

. On an upshift, it's much more subtle because all it's doing is preventing the RPM's from falling too far if you're slow to let the clutch out.

Exactly.
Rev match turn on makes the upshifts feel smooth.