[radz28]

Thanks for your work. That sounds like a load of BS, but what do I know? That's pretty frustrating.

[KingLT1]

If you have an Android device, the Torque Pro app and a BT obd2 adapter will log all GM enhanced params. It's what I use when I don't have my laptop in the car. Cheap alternative until Banks pulls head from sand.

[radz28]

Has anyone used the set-up for another vehicle? I can't remember if anyone posted they tried using doing this, but it occurred to me while I was on the phone with them. I asked, and the tech' guy didn't think that would be possible. So I got home, and selected a Ford, a Dodge, and others, but didn't find ANY KNOCK PIDs or CHANNELs. Then, I found a kinda' weird-labelled vehicle profile for SPEED-something-rather.

Low-and-behold - there is the illusive KNOCK PID... I selected it, set-up an alert, and added it to my gauge selection. I haven't driven it, but am eager to see if it shows anything. I order an OBD2 splitter (which I'm dubious of actually working), but I can't scan with HPTuners while this is plugged into the port, so until that splitter arrives to validate the new CHANNEL set-up, I guess it's just wishful thinking.

Maybe someone else can double-check me, too.

[radz28]

Quick update (10/20/22):

FIRST - not entirely successful yet, as I haven't seen any KNOCK RETARD channel activity yet.

But - there might be a sequence, to do get this to work, that I accidently came across. To save anyone who's not interested in the details, I'll state it now, and then follow all that up, in detail, after:

* Select SPEED BRAKE from VEHICLE PROFILE (or whatever vehicle setting that is to choose from)
* Allow the iDash to reboot
* Scroll through the gauges to find KNOCK RETARD and add it
* Set up an ALERT
* SAVE that set-up
* Go back to VEHICLE PROFILE and select GM
* Allow the iDash to reboot
* You should be able to see the KNOCK RETARD channel on the display. If not, find it from your
SAVED gauges

********************

Now - for the rest of the details and background. Maybe someone can find a fault or better way to do it. AGAIN - I couldn't get any KNOCK to show up, but it was in the mid-50s with some morning dew, and I've been tuning on my MAIN SPARK table, so theoretically - I shouldn't be seeing KNOCK necessarily. I'll try to induce some maybe.

I, too, called Banks, and asked if I could try to use a different VEHICLE PROFILE, because I thought that KNOCK would be a standard PID for all manufacturers. They didn't think the gauge would communicate correctly (I'll get back to this shortly). I asked if it might work if I was only monitoring KNOCK (as that's what's most important to me (since I already have a WB I can see)), but they weren't confident it would work correctly. OK - that makes some sense.

BUT - I did it anyways. I went through several manufacturers from the list in the gauge, and couldn't even find the KNOCK RETARD PID. Then I went to SPEED BRAKE and FOUND IT!!! I didn't know what that selection was, but added the channel, and added, and set-up an alert. The gauge happened to also have what looks like an DENSITY AIR (DA) channel bundled with the KNOCK RETARD PID for whatever reason, but I left it (because that would also be something interesting to see). So - the way I left the gauge display was KNOCK RETARD and DA.

This morning, I left with only these changes (you'll see my directions above are different than I just described though), and found the gauge kept turning off. I think it was going into SLEEP MODE because it wasn't picking up any data (or whatever it needs to stay awake). It would turn off after about a minute on it's own (unless I hit a button on the face or something). I tried unplugging it, and plugging it back in, but it would return to shutting itself off after about a minute.

So - I went back into VEHICLE PROFILE, and selected GM. After doing that, because I saved my gauge display, the KNOCK and DA channels were still displaying on the gauge. AND - it wouldn't go into SLEEP MODE or whatever, and shut off, like before.

I could see the the DA changing, as I was driving, though. That is giving me a little hope that, MAYBE, the KNOCK is monitoring, too. ASSUMING I am correct with the DA description (which I'm fairly confident I am, because that channel did change from about 150-325-feet; I'm at about 50-ft above sea level, and it was about 55*, and some dew), perhaps that channel is using standard temperature/barometric/humidity/etc readings from the car to calculate that value. If so - maybe there's a chance the KNOCK RETARD is a standard PID, too (why wouldn't it be?), and maybe there's a cheat code to get it added.

So - that's about where I'm at now. I have an OBD2-splitter (which probably won't work) on the way, because I can't use HPTuners to monitor KNOCK with the iDash occupying the same port (duh). So - when that arrives, I can validate the iDash channel better (hopefully), unless I can get Fury to register a little knock driving around.

Fingers crossed!!!

[ZLE dude]

Originally Posted by radz28

Quick update (10/20/22):

FIRST - not entirely successful yet, as I haven't seen any KNOCK RETARD channel activity yet.

But - there might be a sequence, to do get this to work, that I accidently came across. To save anyone who's not interested in the details, I'll state it now, and then follow all that up, in detail, after:

* Select SPEED BRAKE from VEHICLE PROFILE (or whatever vehicle setting that is to choose from)
* Allow the iDash to reboot
* Scroll through the gauges to find KNOCK RETARD and add it
* Set up an ALERT
* SAVE that set-up
* Go back to VEHICLE PROFILE and select GM
* Allow the iDash to reboot
* You should be able to see the KNOCK RETARD channel on the display. If not, find it from your
SAVED gauges

********************

Now - for the rest of the details and background. Maybe someone can find a fault or better way to do it. AGAIN - I couldn't get any KNOCK to show up, but it was in the mid-50s with some morning dew, and I've been tuning on my MAIN SPARK table, so theoretically - I shouldn't be seeing KNOCK necessarily. I'll try to induce some maybe.

I, too, called Banks, and asked if I could try to use a different VEHICLE PROFILE, because I thought that KNOCK would be a standard PID for all manufacturers. They didn't think the gauge would communicate correctly (I'll get back to this shortly). I asked if it might work if I was only monitoring KNOCK (as that's what's most important to me (since I already have a WB I can see)), but they weren't confident it would work correctly. OK - that makes some sense.

BUT - I did it anyways. I went through several manufacturers from the list in the gauge, and couldn't even find the KNOCK RETARD PID. Then I went to SPEED BRAKE and FOUND IT!!! I didn't know what that selection was, but added the channel, and added, and set-up an alert. The gauge happened to also have what looks like an DENSITY AIR (DA) channel bundled with the KNOCK RETARD PID for whatever reason, but I left it (because that would also be something interesting to see). So - the way I left the gauge display was KNOCK RETARD and DA.

This morning, I left with only these changes (you'll see my directions above are different than I just described though), and found the gauge kept turning off. I think it was going into SLEEP MODE because it wasn't picking up any data (or whatever it needs to stay awake). It would turn off after about a minute on it's own (unless I hit a button on the face or something). I tried unplugging it, and plugging it back in, but it would return to shutting itself off after about a minute.

So - I went back into VEHICLE PROFILE, and selected GM. After doing that, because I saved my gauge display, the KNOCK and DA channels were still displaying on the gauge. AND - it wouldn't go into SLEEP MODE or whatever, and shut off, like before.

I could see the the DA changing, as I was driving, though. That is giving me a little hope that, MAYBE, the KNOCK is monitoring, too. ASSUMING I am correct with the DA description (which I'm fairly confident I am, because that channel did change from about 150-325-feet; I'm at about 50-ft above sea level, and it was about 55*, and some dew), perhaps that channel is using standard temperature/barometric/humidity/etc readings from the car to calculate that value. If so - maybe there's a chance the KNOCK RETARD is a standard PID, too (why wouldn't it be?), and maybe there's a cheat code to get it added.

So - that's about where I'm at now. I have an OBD2-splitter (which probably won't work) on the way, because I can't use HPTuners to monitor KNOCK with the iDash occupying the same port (duh). So - when that arrives, I can validate the iDash channel better (hopefully), unless I can get Fury to register a little knock driving around.

Fingers crossed!!!

I'm cautiously optimistic that you get this working as I've also purchased a OBDII splitter for this exact same purpose (idash/HPtuner at the same time) but haven't messed with it yet to see how it works. Good luck!

[Evansa22]

In my experience, hptuners won't run with another "instrument" polling data (if that's the right term) from the obd2, even with a splitter. Have tried to use my aeroforce and hptuners together but the obd2 dongle just flashes and won't connect with vehicle. Even exchanged the splitter thinking that was the issue, hope you find a way to make it work! Would love to run both at the same time, maybe it's just an issue with aeroforce idk

[radz28]

No good. Pretty irritated.

Anyone want a barely used iDash?...

[ZLRob]

Originally Posted by radz28

No good. Pretty irritated.

Anyone want a barely used iDash?...

Maybe... as much as some things irritate me about it (mainly the lack of KR and INJ PW PIDS, but I guess we can't have it all can we) how much you thinking on selling it for? Lol.

[radz28]

Originally Posted by ZLRob

Maybe... as much as some things irritate me about it (mainly the lack of KR and INJ PW PIDS, but I guess we can't have it all can we) how much you thinking on selling it for? Lol.

PM sent

[Trochoidal]

Originally Posted by radz28

No good. Pretty irritated.

Anyone want a barely used iDash?...

Kudos to you for trying something different. Is this a primary or secondary iDash?

[radz28]

Originally Posted by Trochoidal

Kudos to you for trying something different. Is this a primary or secondary iDash?

It was my primary. I saw how user-centric they were with adding stuff before, and thought they would be this time, but I was wrong - whatever the reasons were.

[radz28]

I jumped ship on the iDash, and just installed the Aeroforce.

I have to say the interface on the iDash is a lot more friendly, for me, at least. I'm still getting used to the Aeroforce, but I think it's just limited by how many buttons they have available.

I'd add that I lean toward the iDash having a slightly more attractive display, too, but that's only more distracting for a person like me, lol.

I do like the alert LEDs on the Aeroforce, though. That makes it worth it for me. It's all a little cumbersome to set-up (which I think I still have to work on a bit), but after the initial set-up is done, it's probably a lot easier. I got the blue display, which I think looks better, color-wise, than Banks, but the iDash display, itself, is a little bigger I think. It doesn't matter as much as having the data I want displayed, nor the alerts I want active, but it there is a complaint I have about the Aeroforce, in terms of what is valuable to me, is that the products probably doesn't have enough memory/power/RAM/or whatever it takes to process the data. The literature of the Aeroforce does say that the speed of the alert data stream slows considerably when using 2-alerts, instead of 1. So - if I were to add fuel pressure (or something) alerts on top of my knock alert, it would slow the response a lot. I, really, only care about knock right now, so I'm not doing anything to slow it.

I'm still bummed about the iDash support stopping. While they made no promises or suggested they were going to add any more support, I'll admit that I had high hopes they would after adding support for us in the past. Oh well. My fault. I'm happy with the Aeroforce though. It's not perfect, but it is doing what I was hoping for.

[Trochoidal]

Hey Radz28, what would it take for you to jump back on the iDash ship?

[radz28]

LOL. Only one of those PIDs. Shoot - I'd trade 10 others for that one, LOL.