[Dabjbr]

I want to tackle this soon myself!

[carguy55]

I did the BMR cradle lock out kit. Seems to help on track. I'm sure not as much as the solid.

[DaveC113]

Originally Posted by Dabjbr

I don’t think he answered this part of your question but I believe that’s what he did. Looks like it to me anyway!

I did tops first to make sure they fully seated. In the rear there was a tiny gap and imo it's best for the gap to be on the bottom.

It's not a hard job if you have the right tools, took me and a friend about 5 hours to do that, new brake lines and a couple other little things, was on a lift with 3/4'" drive impact, both help a lot.

[Dabjbr]

Originally Posted by DaveC113

I did tops first to make sure they fully seated. In the rear there was a tiny gap and imo it's best for the gap to be on the bottom.

It's not a hard job if you have the right tools, took me and a friend about 5 hours to do that, new brake lines and a couple other little things, was on a lift with 3/4'" drive impact, both help a lot.

I would assume any gap up top would go away after driving as the entire weight of the car presses back onto the subframe. (Requiring retightening of the bolt too)

If there’s gap on the bottom, I would imagine an impact gun would take car of that…. Or maybe jack the rear of the car under each bushing one at a time. The 2k weight should press that bottom bushing in.

This is all speculation of course!

[DaveC113]

Originally Posted by Dabjbr

I would assume any gap up top would go away after driving as the entire weight of the car presses back onto the subframe. (Requiring retightening of the bolt too)

If there’s gap on the bottom, I would imagine an impact gun would take car of that…. Or maybe jack the rear of the car under each bushing one at a time. The 2k weight should press that bottom bushing in.

This is all speculation of course!

Yeah, that's incorrect. As I said, we had a 3/4" impact, it's used to work on diesel trucks... The bushings meet just before the shoulder of the 2nd bushing pressed in hits the subframe, so the gap is permanent. The force required to press these bushing in far exceeds the weight of the car on the bushings, so if the gap is on top it will remain there, the install is permanent.

[Dabjbr]

Originally Posted by DaveC113

Yeah, that's incorrect. As I said, we had a 3/4" impact, it's used to work on diesel trucks... The bushings meet just before the shoulder of the 2nd bushing pressed in hits the subframe, so the gap is permanent. The force required to press these bushing in far exceeds the weight of the car on the bushings, so if the gap is on top it will remain there, the install is permanent.

Interesting that they touch before mating against the subframe. Thanks for the explanation. Really good to know!

That means if one were to install the bottom first, you’d inadvertently have a lgap on top which translates into greater wheel/fender gap plus throwing off suspension geometry a tad. Correct?

[h018871]

Whether to install the top or the bottom bushing flush has been discussed many times with strong supporters on both sides.
The instructions that came with the kit I got state to install the bottom bushing first. IMO this mimics the rubber bushing installation, its flange is flush on the bottom side of the cradle also.

I do believe it doesn't make much difference, because they are in place very tight and most likely will not move.

Instructions attached, step 45, pg 11

[Dabjbr]

Just installed the bushings! Almost gave up at one point!

Still have to put everything back together. I’ll try to put up a video and images for there to reference. Really hope this upgrade is worth it!

[Dabjbr]

A few videos for others to reference…







Links fixed! Thanks Carguy55!

[carguy55]

Originally Posted by Dabjbr

A few videos for others to reference…

https://youtu.be/Br-rlqR_IS4

https://youtu.be/Hnztu8Yx0u8

https://youtu.be/hWCRX_090w4

Btw, why do my links not work with a preview. Obviously doing something wrong! Lame

For previews to work, need to post links with the full address like www. youtube.com/whatever

[radz28]

Nice videos. I dropped the whole cradle to the floor, while leaving the driveshaft connected, and used pullers to push the bushings out, and used the same method to install the new ones. I was a chicken about the torch, but that method, probably, saved 5-hours I bet. I think either the front or rear bushings are hydraulic or something though... Regardless - it's obviously affective, and has been done several times with no reports of big issues.

KUDOS for sharing these helpful videos!

[Dabjbr]

Originally Posted by radz28

Nice videos. I dropped the whole cradle to the floor, while leaving the driveshaft connected, and used pullers to push the bushings out, and used the same method to install the new ones. I was a chicken about the torch, but that method, probably, saved 5-hours I bet. I think either the front or rear bushings are hydraulic or something though... Regardless - it's obviously affective, and has been done several times with no reports of big issues.

KUDOS for sharing these helpful videos!

Thanks bud! I contemplated dropping the subframe but didn’t want to disconnect the LSD coolant lines and such. I felt more comfortable using the torch with some tin foil to protect nearby wire harnesses

[Dabjbr]

Adding photos and a few learnings along the way…

1) You’ll need to disconnect the passenger side O2 sensor. It’s a bit tricky. First unlock the white tab. Then insert a pic or flat head screwdriver to separate the internal mating point. You can then pull it apart.

2) If you choose to hang your subframe, this longest available metric bolt I could find locally in M12 1.75 size was 6.5 inches long ~ 150mm. That gave plenty of working space.

3) Tin foil is a cheap and effective way to protect sensitive parts.

4) 1/2” (or was it 3/4”) grade 8 bolt, spacer and nuts worked great for pressing in bushings. 5” length is perfect. “Not what she said”

5) Mark your bushings in advance. You don’t want to second guess whether you’re installing them in the right spot. Once they go in, they’re not coming out!

6) Purchase a short 7/8” wood dowel to use for aligning the subframe with the chassis. You’ll do this before fully tightening the subframe bolts. The close up pic shows 3 rings. The black is the bottom and top portion of the subframe. The deeper silver ring is the chassis hole. This is what a perfectly aligned subframe looks like. (You’ll still need an alignment of course)

7) Lastly, at the start and finish of this job you’ll remove and reinstall the exhaust. Be sure to pry open this slip joint clamp by pulling down the lower section. The top is welded and won’t budge. If you do not open it enough, it makes reassembly a pain in the ass!

I think that’s it! Everything else was well covered previously. I just wanted to share areas that slowed me down.

Now it’s time to get on the track and see if this made any difference! Lol.

*Apologies for some upside down pics. Apparently this happens when using an iPad to upload photos.

[radz28]

Many KUDOS for probably the best cradle bushing thread I can remember.

I'd also add ( and I could've missed this elsewhere), that it might be necessary to unclip the cooler lines from the chassis. It didn't take to long nor was it difficult. It made maneuvering the rear cradle a lot easier, and it was just another mess I didn't have to clean up. Some of the plugs were a little difficult to get at, but I just took my time. Leaving the driveshaft attached kinda' helped with getting the cradle back in, too. I totally forgot about the alignment dowls, but got luck enough by eye-balling the bolt-to-bushing alignment that my thrust angle as as close to perfect as could be. I was fortunate. The driveshaft helped a little, too.