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#15 |
![]() Drives: 22 ZL1 1LE A10 Join Date: Feb 2022
Location: Ohio
Posts: 233
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yet you could make more with a TB and porting. its simple, more air plus tuning (fuel) will only make more. that 723 doesnt mean much without a before, what gear, what dyno, what correction factor etc etc. you could of made 690 else where or 650 as a base run.
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#16 |
![]() ![]() Drives: 22 ZL1, 18 RS3, 22 M3P Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Walnut Creek, CA
Posts: 946
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Just the supercharger lid thing. That little plate inside.
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2022 ZL1 - M6, Wrapped, Tinted, Rotofab intake, MBRP AxleBack, Lots of BMR rear suspension components
2024 Audi RS3 2022 Tesla Model 3 Performance 2018 Audi RS3 - Many mods & e85 Instagram - @JBsCars |
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#17 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2017 Camaro 1SS Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: NH
Posts: 1,713
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If you're NOT tuning it, then the regular Rotofab is the way to go, because it does not screw up the calibration. The Big Gulp version NEEDS to be tuned, because it throws off the MAF calibration with that big tube.
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#18 | ||
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Coupe Newbie
Drives: '23 CT5-V BW, '21 Corvette HTC Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Columbus, Ohio
Posts: 3,469
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Quote:
Quote:
https://www.camaro6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=541269 In my opinion, the best bang for the buck is to remove the rain/snow blocker behind the driver's side headlight in the upper grill. This gives air a more direct path to the intake duct on the stock air box or any after market intake for that matter. This makes the car build boost a little faster and gives a little more grunt in the lower rpms. If you daily drive your car in an area with lots of snow and rain, you might want to leave the blocker in. Mine has been off for more than two years and I haven't had any issues with water intrusion--even power washing my car. See post #20 in this thread if you're interested in removing. https://www.camaro6.com/forums/showt...t=snow+blocker If you want to get real fancy, a company called Vellossa makes an intake snorkel to replace the rain/snow blocker. It's a little pricey and I don't think it provides any more performance than just removing the blocker.
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#19 | |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: '20 ZLE Join Date: Jun 2020
Location: Mile High
Posts: 4,195
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Quote:
And 10 days later it made 723 wheel with HPE's 850 pkg., still with stock SC and TB, at sea level (1-2% correction), on a DynoJet, in 6th gear if I recall. I didn't add the 103mm until I added the KongX a year later.
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2020 ZL1LE A10.
LME LT4 390 short block, LME CID Heads, Kong E2650, FBO. 15" conversion, MT ET Street R 325/15. 100 octane: 1045hp/1055tq. 100 octane + Meth (1x10+): 1117 hp/1067 tq Last edited by JSH; 06-07-2022 at 08:23 AM. |
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#20 |
![]() Drives: 2020 ZLE A10, 2018 F250 Diesel Join Date: Apr 2020
Location: Atlanta
Posts: 148
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Idk if the rotofab adds much other than sound over the stock air box. I added one a while back and on a road course saw a slight decrease in mph on some long straight sections. But there are a lot of factors at play there. Idk. I’ve thought about going back to the stock air box.
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#21 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: '20 ZLE Join Date: Jun 2020
Location: Mile High
Posts: 4,195
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I still think that a good LT4 starter pkg. is a 10% lower, 103mm, and a tune.
__________________
2020 ZL1LE A10.
LME LT4 390 short block, LME CID Heads, Kong E2650, FBO. 15" conversion, MT ET Street R 325/15. 100 octane: 1045hp/1055tq. 100 octane + Meth (1x10+): 1117 hp/1067 tq |
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#22 |
![]() ![]() Drives: 22 ZL1, 18 RS3, 22 M3P Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Walnut Creek, CA
Posts: 946
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Ok, and do any of the intakes make more sound than the others?
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#23 | |
![]() Drives: 22 ZL1 1LE A10 Join Date: Feb 2022
Location: Ohio
Posts: 233
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Quote:
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