[h018871]

Originally Posted by TMS

Perhaps you’ll find this helpful.

You need to calibrate both the input trigger and the output voltage on your car.

Below are my instructions on how to do this. Since you are using the accelerator pedal you need to configure the unit to ramp in using 0-5v sensor (accelerator pedal is the sensor) and not a time ramp. Thus switch #3 must be set to on. Further, you want to set switch #4 to on and #5 off so it configures the unit for a 0.4V increment which is the smallest increment. This will give the most granularity of the ramp in using the accelerator pedal. If this incremental voltage is set too high based on the dipswitch combinations of 4 and 5, then when the voltage starts ramping up it might go from 14.4v Base to 17.47V starting at 50% throttle and maxing out early at 60% throttle. We want to spread the ramp-in over the largest percentage of pedal movement possible (something like ramp in at 50% throttle and maxes out around 80% throttle).

Steps for configuration:

Note: it really helps to have a second person when it comes to setting the ramp-in trigger using the accelerator pedal.

1) You'll test voltage on the white wire of the JMS booster (I used a sharp voltmeter probe to pierce the wire insulation).
2) On the dip switches - 1 is on (program settings mode), 2 is off, 3 is on, 4 is on, 5 is off.
3) Output Voltage Set - Two ground wires coming out of the JMS Pedal harness near the accelerator (gray and black) get touched together with car running. Turn the dial knob on the JMS unit labeled "adjust output voltage" until you get as close to 17.47V as you can on the voltmeter. At this point, you have set the output max voltage. Turn dip switch 1 off to save the programming changes (before you kill power). Now, disconnect the two ground wires (gray & black) from each other and tape each of them up so they don't accidentally ground out. These stay unconnected. Shut ignition off.

4) Input voltage ramp-in trigger - This is where a 2nd person comes in handy. Turn the ignition on with engine off. Turn Dip switch 1 on to go into programming mode. With HPTuners VCMScanner connected (or whatever tuner you are using), monitor the "Accelerator Pedal Position" channel. Push accelerator pedal down until you reach as close to 50% on this channel (pedal should be about half way down). Now while one of you is holding the pedal steady at 50% have the second set of hands turn the "Adjust Input Trigger" dial on the JMS unit up or down until the base voltage of 14.4V begins to just start ramping up. Once that dial is set, test your ramp-in to make sure everything works properly. Simply let off of the accelerator pedal. Have your partner watch the voltmeter. It should stay steady at about 14.4V. then slowly press the pedal down until you get to 50%. 0%-50% throttle should stay at 14.4V. Once you go above 50%, the voltmeter should start registering an increase in voltage. Have your helper call out the voltage while you keep pressing the pedal down. Your partner should see the voltage climb up to and max out at 17.47v or so (whatever the max voltage ended up being on the previous step). It will likely max out somewhere between 75% and 80% throttle position which is perfect. Then, as one final test, just mash the pedal to the floor and make sure the voltage goes to 17.47v. Now make sure you turn dipswitch 1 off to save your settings (before you kill the ignition).

You're Done!

Hope this helps.

Trevor

I added the JMS booster, this was spot on! Thx for writing this up Trevor.

[TMS]

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[manniej]

Originally Posted by TMS

4) Input voltage ramp-in trigger - This is where a 2nd person comes in handy. Turn the ignition on with engine off. Turn Dip switch 1 on to go into programming mode. With HPTuners VCMScanner connected (or whatever tuner you are using), monitor the "Accelerator Pedal Position" channel. Push accelerator pedal down until you reach as close to 50% on this channel (pedal should be about half way down). Now while one of you is holding the pedal steady at 50% have the second set of hands turn the "Adjust Input Trigger" dial on the JMS unit up or down until the base voltage of 14.4V begins to just start ramping up. Once that dial is set, test your ramp-in to make sure everything works properly. Simply let off of the accelerator pedal. Have your partner watch the voltmeter. It should stay steady at about 14.4V. then slowly press the pedal down until you get to 50%. 0%-50% throttle should stay at 14.4V. Once you go above 50%, the voltmeter should start registering an increase in voltage. Have your helper call out the voltage while you keep pressing the pedal down. Your partner should see the voltage climb up to and max out at 17.47v or so (whatever the max voltage ended up being on the previous step). It will likely max out somewhere between 75% and 80% throttle position which is perfect. Then, as one final test, just mash the pedal to the floor and make sure the voltage goes to 17.47v. Now make sure you turn dipswitch 1 off to save your settings (before you kill the ignition).

You're Done!

Hope this helps.

Trevor

I finished my Edelbrock 2650 install, and I'm working on getting the JMS setup. I completed the first 3 steps, but on step 4 I get a constant 32% throttle position, with the ignition on and the engine off. I tried both the SCT tuner that came with the Edelbrock kit, as well as an AutoXray scan tool that I have, and I get the same 32% throttle position, regardless of how far I press the pedal.

Am I missing something?

How sensitive are the pots/dials? The output voltage dial is pretty close to the same position that the one in the How-To on Jannetty's website is. If I set the Input Trigger dial to the same position as the How-To (just shy of the 12:00 position), will that get me what I need?

[Crazy Drywall Guy]

I ordered mine specifically for my 18 Camaro and it appears to have been pre- programmed pretty Close from the factory,I never had to program it as data logging looks to be spot on.

[SOCAL.M6.ZLE]

Originally Posted by TMS

Perhaps you’ll find this helpful.

You need to calibrate both the input trigger and the output voltage on your car.

Below are my instructions on how to do this. Since you are using the accelerator pedal you need to configure the unit to ramp in using 0-5v sensor (accelerator pedal is the sensor) and not a time ramp. Thus switch #3 must be set to on. Further, you want to set switch #4 to on and #5 off so it configures the unit for a 0.4V increment which is the smallest increment. This will give the most granularity of the ramp in using the accelerator pedal. If this incremental voltage is set too high based on the dipswitch combinations of 4 and 5, then when the voltage starts ramping up it might go from 14.4v Base to 17.47V starting at 50% throttle and maxing out early at 60% throttle. We want to spread the ramp-in over the largest percentage of pedal movement possible (something like ramp in at 50% throttle and maxes out around 80% throttle).

Steps for configuration:

Note: it really helps to have a second person when it comes to setting the ramp-in trigger using the accelerator pedal.

1) You'll test voltage on the white wire of the JMS booster (I used a sharp voltmeter probe to pierce the wire insulation).
2) On the dip switches - 1 is on (program settings mode), 2 is off, 3 is on, 4 is on, 5 is off.
3) Output Voltage Set - Two ground wires coming out of the JMS Pedal harness near the accelerator (gray and black) get touched together with car running. Turn the dial knob on the JMS unit labeled "adjust output voltage" until you get as close to 17.47V as you can on the voltmeter. At this point, you have set the output max voltage. Turn dip switch 1 off to save the programming changes (before you kill power). Now, disconnect the two ground wires (gray & black) from each other and tape each of them up so they don't accidentally ground out. These stay unconnected. Shut ignition off.

4) Input voltage ramp-in trigger - This is where a 2nd person comes in handy. Turn the ignition on with engine off. Turn Dip switch 1 on to go into programming mode. With HPTuners VCMScanner connected (or whatever tuner you are using), monitor the "Accelerator Pedal Position" channel. Push accelerator pedal down until you reach as close to 50% on this channel (pedal should be about half way down). Now while one of you is holding the pedal steady at 50% have the second set of hands turn the "Adjust Input Trigger" dial on the JMS unit up or down until the base voltage of 14.4V begins to just start ramping up. Once that dial is set, test your ramp-in to make sure everything works properly. Simply let off of the accelerator pedal. Have your partner watch the voltmeter. It should stay steady at about 14.4V. then slowly press the pedal down until you get to 50%. 0%-50% throttle should stay at 14.4V. Once you go above 50%, the voltmeter should start registering an increase in voltage. Have your helper call out the voltage while you keep pressing the pedal down. Your partner should see the voltage climb up to and max out at 17.47v or so (whatever the max voltage ended up being on the previous step). It will likely max out somewhere between 75% and 80% throttle position which is perfect. Then, as one final test, just mash the pedal to the floor and make sure the voltage goes to 17.47v. Now make sure you turn dipswitch 1 off to save your settings (before you kill the ignition).

You're Done!

Hope this helps.

Trevor

Hey Trevor... I am getting stuck on your #3... would it be possible to jump on a quick call?

[swisstyphoon]

Originally Posted by SOCAL.M6.ZLE

Hey Trevor... I am getting stuck on your #3... would it be possible to jump on a quick call?

This video was helpful for me.
https://youtu.be/XOYilNyh3iQ

[SOCAL.M6.ZLE]

Originally Posted by swisstyphoon

This video was helpful for me.
https://youtu.be/XOYilNyh3iQ

Thanks for the link, i agree, it was helpful.
It looks like the issue was that that my wire harness that i ran to the front only had (1) red wire for the petal switch harness. but upon closer inspection, there was a white and black wire hidden within the loom!


I cut them out, connected, and adjusted the output to 17.4 easily.

My new issue now appears to be where i fine switched power for the AEM gauge in the truck. I took what appeared to an open F31 "power folding top" but it looks like that controls the door windows... gotta check for another one today...

[TMS]

Originally Posted by SOCAL.M6.ZLE

Hey Trevor... I am getting stuck on your #3... would it be possible to jump on a quick call?

Just now saw this post. Looks like you got your first issue resolved. Good deal.

[DCZ]

Installed a JMS BAP.. I contacted JMS and was told fuel system settings have to be adjusted. Unfortunately, they would not share..

I obtained some Fuel Sys/Fuel Pressure settings from another forum member. What I don't understand is:

Were the adjustments necessary to my fuel system?

When I monitor LSFP, I see fuel pressure swing from 57.9 to 80 psi and then back to 57.9 PSI under hard pulls. Is that normal?

[laynlo15]

Originally Posted by TMS

Perhaps you’ll find this helpful.

You need to calibrate both the input trigger and the output voltage on your car.

Below are my instructions on how to do this. Since you are using the accelerator pedal you need to configure the unit to ramp in using 0-5v sensor (accelerator pedal is the sensor) and not a time ramp. Thus switch #3 must be set to on. Further, you want to set switch #4 to on and #5 off so it configures the unit for a 0.4V increment which is the smallest increment. This will give the most granularity of the ramp in using the accelerator pedal. If this incremental voltage is set too high based on the dipswitch combinations of 4 and 5, then when the voltage starts ramping up it might go from 14.4v Base to 17.47V starting at 50% throttle and maxing out early at 60% throttle. We want to spread the ramp-in over the largest percentage of pedal movement possible (something like ramp in at 50% throttle and maxes out around 80% throttle).

Steps for configuration:

Note: it really helps to have a second person when it comes to setting the ramp-in trigger using the accelerator pedal.

1) You'll test voltage on the white wire of the JMS booster (I used a sharp voltmeter probe to pierce the wire insulation).
2) On the dip switches - 1 is on (program settings mode), 2 is off, 3 is on, 4 is on, 5 is off.
3) Output Voltage Set - Two ground wires coming out of the JMS Pedal harness near the accelerator (gray and black) get touched together with car running. Turn the dial knob on the JMS unit labeled "adjust output voltage" until you get as close to 17.47V as you can on the voltmeter. At this point, you have set the output max voltage. Turn dip switch 1 off to save the programming changes (before you kill power). Now, disconnect the two ground wires (gray & black) from each other and tape each of them up so they don't accidentally ground out. These stay unconnected. Shut ignition off.

4) Input voltage ramp-in trigger - This is where a 2nd person comes in handy. Turn the ignition on with engine off. Turn Dip switch 1 on to go into programming mode. With HPTuners VCMScanner connected (or whatever tuner you are using), monitor the "Accelerator Pedal Position" channel. Push accelerator pedal down until you reach as close to 50% on this channel (pedal should be about half way down). Now while one of you is holding the pedal steady at 50% have the second set of hands turn the "Adjust Input Trigger" dial on the JMS unit up or down until the base voltage of 14.4V begins to just start ramping up. Once that dial is set, test your ramp-in to make sure everything works properly. Simply let off of the accelerator pedal. Have your partner watch the voltmeter. It should stay steady at about 14.4V. then slowly press the pedal down until you get to 50%. 0%-50% throttle should stay at 14.4V. Once you go above 50%, the voltmeter should start registering an increase in voltage. Have your helper call out the voltage while you keep pressing the pedal down. Your partner should see the voltage climb up to and max out at 17.47v or so (whatever the max voltage ended up being on the previous step). It will likely max out somewhere between 75% and 80% throttle position which is perfect. Then, as one final test, just mash the pedal to the floor and make sure the voltage goes to 17.47v. Now make sure you turn dipswitch 1 off to save your settings (before you kill the ignition).

You're Done!

Hope this helps.

Trevor

So I'm starting another build on my 2022 Lt1 with 2300 Maggie and toohighpsi PI kit. I'm going to be using a JMS on my Camaro for addition voltage to help out the low side. What should I expect on the PSI increase over my current 69 to 70 psi on E65. Thx and appreciate your input

[LiqTenExp]

You won't see much increase (maybe up to 75 psi) but you will get more consistency out of it when it is in high flow mode.

[Joshinator99]

Originally Posted by LiqTenExp

You won't see much increase (maybe up to 75 psi) but you will get more consistency out of it when it is in high flow mode.

Exactly. It isn’t about more low side pressure in Greg’s case, it’ll be about making sure there is no drop off… that’s when problems happen.

[laynlo15]

Originally Posted by Joshinator99

Exactly. It isn’t about more low side pressure in Greg’s case, it’ll be about making sure there is no drop off… that’s when problems happen.

I agree, just keeping it steady Eddie and at 70 to 75 we should be ok for 8 to 9 lbs of boost, maybe a little less but we can always put in a little more timing since we are going to be on E. We won't be able to run 23/28 degrees as we do with the NA setup, but we will just work into it on the dyno and street logs. Thx for the input, lots of knowledge on this forum and even as much as I've done on this Lt1 platform I still learn something every day. The blower should be here Tuesday and I'll start working on the setup and waiting for the parts coming from Mike at THPSI which should be here Friday or Monday.

[Chrome383Z]

What controller are you using? I might go the port injection route when I decide to go for more one day…