[KingLT1]

Originally Posted by BlaqWhole

You will need to be tuned to run E85 along with a flex fuel setup. In the tune they will also have to shut off one of the CELs that relates to the pump. And you will really need to watch your mixtures so you don't screw something up. If you can run a max of, let's say, E60, then I suggest keeping your mixture close to E40.

I am set up to run max of E44 but I will be doing 30+ injectors and a larger high side pump so I can run full E85 and not have to worry about mixtures and such.

If you are going ported and pullied on the stock blower then you will need a chiller or meth to keep the temps down. Otherwise you will heat soak and lose power all the time. So keep that in mind.

There is no reason to stay @ E40 if the fuel system can handle E60. That 20% difference is a huge drop in fuel system demand. I would just stay around E50 like I already said once. I have tuned several of these cars so I am well aware of fuel system demands and limitations with different mixtures of E.

There is No setup to run a Max of with E. You are limited to E44 due to fuel system limitations not tune limitations. If you had the fueling capability you could move up to E60 or whatever without needing any tune adjustments. Once the car is tuned properly for 93 octane, then you don't need to change much in the tune to run E85. The stoich table and flex spark table will add or pull what is needed based on the E content.

+30 injectors won't be enough to run full E85 on your setup even with a LPE DI pump unless tuner runs it lean. Plan on XDI +60's.

[KamZL1]

Originally Posted by EDFHOBBIES

1 7/8 long tubes with cats and stock exhaust shouldn't be to crazy in sound

If you do go the upper pulley route remove the blower yourself and send to kong for porting it just makes sense... you will have useless R & R blower labor for a job that's easy to do.

https://youtu.be/yM_z9A7INKQ

If your not going to port the blower ever and have dreams of bigger power that doesn't include the oem blower do the lower pulley rather than waste money towards the stock blower. I see time and time again people spend 1250 for porting and 230 for a griptec pulley then go to sell there blower and get $1800 - $2200 if there lucky a stock unmodified blower usually fetches 1500 to 2k. The lower pulley is compatible any way your build goes!

I've done 4 builds after learning the hard way on the 1st build (wasted money) you wise up and plan better on your builds not that anyway is wrong but if you do it correctly you will not be paying double for labor like as you mentioned blower porting and an upper pulley do both at same time and save the 4 hours shop labor they get for R & R for installing the griptec or removing it later on for porting. things like this.. but really you remove it yourself!

I was able to all this for 2k

https://www.camaro6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=517100

granted prices have gone up.. but here is my list: GOING THE LOWER PULLEY ROUTE

ATI 918856(w) Damper $325.00 (got lucky found listing on EBAY lost freight company selling new dampers)
ATI 916227 or Lingenfelter L220170709 115.00 (black Friday Summit)
GATES Greenback k080845HD 28.00 (amazon)
Rotofab $350.00 (black Friday)
Texas Speed Headers $599.00 no cats (black Friday TSP)
LS1 ATI 951499 damper bolt summit 9.75
NGK 6510 1 step cooler plugs 7.00 ebay
Tune $500.00 discounted since I've used him on 3 builds in past.




If you do do the ported blower ditch the mamo POS that's for pussies worrying abt warranties it does nothing for performance you will want a 103 mm or ported 95mm from the Zr1 vette and adapter.

I'd look into the front bumper tank not the side finder to add extra capacity.


If you go with some E after you install the DSX flex sensor get the Banks I dash super gauge and Z pillar for 6 gens to keep an eye on E content once the sensor is installed the gauge can read the E content right from the OBD2 port. Its an easy install to do. I think the pillar is a lot easier then messing with an AC vent and it look more professional than mounting next to instrument cluster like some of the other setups.

https://www.camaro6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=594677



Not sure where you are in Texas but if near Houston use Sorian MSTuning or jrods speed shop. stay away from HP motorsports, MTI, and Houston house of power. Powerfab and Peitz performance would be my go to if Sorian is to far backed up.

If your near Dallas.. 21st been around a long time. LG motors botched my 4th gen build but they are still here, ADM is good but an Ass, I've heard good things about neflix's star Tiana Weber at Accelerated Racing Solutions. San Antonio sorry no clue!

Yeah just talked to Sorian and he seems to think the same as me, avoid E if you can. Lower over upper (more expensive but less labor and belt slip plus reasons you mention) . Think i will be going tune, headers, pulley with him. should be a beast

[EDFHOBBIES]

Originally Posted by KingLT1

Many of us run Ethanol or a blend of without issues. With a flex tune and sensor you can run pump 93, E85 or any blend of ethanol between. The ECU will adjust the tune for the fuel on the fly. It's super easy to mix...50/50 pump gas/e85 usually lands around E50 which is plenty of octane for a big bump in power and will allow the ability to run higher intake temps without pulling timing. You can monitor it by picking up a 17.00 obd2 bluetooth dongle and downloading the Torque Pro app on your phone.

E50, Headers, Big Gulp, 95mm tb, and a tire(305/30/20 555r2) should allow for mid 10 second time slips in decent air if the tuning is on point. Full drag pack should get you in the low 10's. You don't need more boost, you just need to make what you have more efficient and consistent.

No need to consider getting into the motor or upping the boost unless you want to run well into the 9's.



Full E85 is 109 octane.

Damn I got the good stuff then!! That was out of the Sunoco pump right next to Bush Intercontinental!

What's 92%

[swisstyphoon]

Originally Posted by KamZL1

Yeah just talked to Sorian and he seems to think the same as me, avoid E if you can. Lower over upper (more expensive but less labor and belt slip plus reasons you mention) . Think i will be going tune, headers, pulley with him. should be a beast

If I would start over again, I would start with E, instead of pulley, from what I know today.
I did pulley initially on mine, it felt really powerful when you step on the gas, because the torque comes in hard at lower rpms.
But racing the car down the half mile on a warmer day, I realized the power is not were I was expecting it.
This video explains it.
https://youtu.be/aMO1y-am_cY

Also check out Jannettys 125rwhp flex fuel package
https://jannettyracing.com/collectio...019-camaro-zl1
https://youtu.be/72yhXcEJtYM

[EDFHOBBIES]

Originally Posted by swisstyphoon

If I would start over again, I would start with E, instead of pulley, from what I know today.
I did pulley initially on mine, it felt really powerful when you step on the gas, because the torque comes in hard at lower rpms.
But racing the car down the half mile on a warmer day, I realized the power is not were I was expecting it.
This video explains it.
https://youtu.be/aMO1y-am_cY

Also check out Jannettys 125rwhp flex fuel package
https://jannettyracing.com/collectio...019-camaro-zl1
https://youtu.be/72yhXcEJtYM

Why don't you ask your tuner or jannetty what number the iat 3 is before it starts pulling timing on their tunes?

That's a good video I'm in Houston and I never experienced the loss of power with a lower as described ya maybe if I just beat and beat on sure. Now I did experience in the higher rpm band loss of power because the baby blower just couldn't pull the same hardness all the way. Magnuson described this in his videos. I did the edelbrock 2650 over what I had a lower w headers on the dyno the numbers were with 10 or 20 hp but as far as pulling on the highway it way night and day.

I think he will be just fine on 93 with cooling mods ( extra 3 gallons of water) I'm pretty sure sorian is 150 iat 3 before timing is pulled on 93 I never saw those temps unless it was 100 out and idling for 10 or 15 min. Going down the track and sitting in a staging lanes probably would be all of 150 plus. But driving down the highway the Cara probably gonna ride 10 degrees over ambient iat 2 and 130s iat 3.

[JSH]

Originally Posted by KamZL1

I would like to see 600 or over to the tire

Given that it's 565-ish from the factory, headers and a tune would do it or Kong and a tune or maybe a sensor, EXX and a tune would do it or...

[KingLT1]

Originally Posted by EDFHOBBIES

Damn I got the good stuff then!! That was out of the Sunoco pump right next to Bush Intercontinental!

What's 92%

100% Ethanol is 113 octane. So probably around 111 or so.

[KamZL1]

Originally Posted by EDFHOBBIES

Why don't you ask your tuner or jannetty what number the iat 3 is before it starts pulling timing on their tunes?

That's a good video I'm in Houston and I never experienced the loss of power with a lower as described ya maybe if I just beat and beat on sure. Now I did experience in the higher rpm band loss of power because the baby blower just couldn't pull the same hardness all the way. Magnuson described this in his videos. I did the edelbrock 2650 over what I had a lower w headers on the dyno the numbers were with 10 or 20 hp but as far as pulling on the highway it way night and day.

I think he will be just fine on 93 with cooling mods ( extra 3 gallons of water) I'm pretty sure sorian is 150 iat 3 before timing is pulled on 93 I never saw those temps unless it was 100 out and idling for 10 or 15 min. Going down the track and sitting in a staging lanes probably would be all of 150 plus. But driving down the highway the Cara probably gonna ride 10 degrees over ambient iat 2 and 130s iat 3.

What cooling mods specifically? He said since i'm not tracking or rarely going to drag strip that i would be fine without additional cooling but I may do it just as a contingency anyway

[EDFHOBBIES]

Plm makes a thicker core exchanger for 395.00 speed Engineering's has a 3 exchangers for 519.00
Cordes and lingenfelter make 2.5 or 3 gallon tank that mounts to front crash support

It keeps cost down since the factory coolant pump can be used but it might be better performance to do universal tank from Summit or jegs and stewart emp pump. Both synergy and cordes have a trunk setup but it's like 2k.

I have a FI chiller I'm not gonna use brand new for 1000 it would be best solution that and 2 or 3 gallon tank all thats needed. Better than any trunk tank or exchanger could ever do.

[KingLT1]

Originally Posted by KamZL1

Yeah just talked to Sorian and he seems to think the same as me, avoid E if you can. Lower over upper (more expensive but less labor and belt slip plus reasons you mention) . Think i will be going tune, headers, pulley with him. should be a beast

I disagree with that. E50-E60 will be a 40-50whp gain. will allow the ability to raise IAT spark vs temp correction. Also won't need a bunch of cooling mods to help keep temps under control like you will when spinning the supercharger harder...especially unported.

[EDFHOBBIES]

I can see him saying that not that it doesn't add hp but as the fact that you put the wrong content in and get blamed for blowing up a motor.

I never see anyone here tell people just do it right and buy the proper fuel system. It's always run meth or add as much E as you can before fuel pressure plummets

[BlaqWhole]

Originally Posted by KingLT1

There is no reason to stay @ E40 if the fuel system can handle E60. That 20% difference is a huge drop in fuel system demand. I would just stay around E50 like I already said once. I have tuned several of these cars so I am well aware of fuel system demands and limitations with different mixtures of E.

There is No setup to run a Max of with E. You are limited to E44 due to fuel system limitations not tune limitations. If you had the fueling capability you could move up to E60 or whatever without needing any tune adjustments. Once the car is tuned properly for 93 octane, then you don't need to change much in the tune to run E85. The stoich table and flex spark table will add or pull what is needed based on the E content.

+30 injectors won't be enough to run full E85 on your setup even with a LPE DI pump unless tuner runs it lean. Plan on XDI +60's.

I said stay at E40 just because a person might miscalculate. At least if you miscalculate with E40 then you have some wiggle room in case you end up with E50. But that's just me. I'm always worried that I might be in a rush and calculate things incorrectly. As of right now I have the FF but not the sensor. That is on my list for my next round of mods. Once I have that then I should be fine.

I have read that FIC +30s with the Lingenfelter pump is good enough to safely run full E85. So I just need someone to straight up tell me exactly what I need to run full E85 safely and if that will also allow me to run regular 93 without issues. Money is not an issue as I am planning my build around convenience of just being able to pull up to the pump and put E85 in without having to do any math. If I need +60s then that's what I will buy. If I can get away with using +30s safely then that is what I'll get. I just need a straight answer.

[KamZL1]

Originally Posted by EDFHOBBIES

I can see him saying that not that it doesn't add hp but as the fact that you put the wrong content in and get blamed for blowing up a motor.

I never see anyone here that tells people just do it right and buy the proper fuel system. It's always run meth or add as much E as you can before fuel pressure plummets

exactly

[KamZL1]

Originally Posted by KingLT1

I disagree with that. E50-E60 will be a 40-50whp gain. will allow the ability to raise IAT spark vs temp correction. Also won't need a bunch of cooling mods to help keep temps under control like you will when spinning the supercharger harder...especially unported.

Doesn't need cooling mods at all actually for how I'm using it according to him, now of course they won't hurt but aren't absolutely necessary. (fun street car) This man tunes the baddest shit around Houston and everyone around here knows it. I trust him. I mean, I'm pretty sure these cars have very stout cooling systems from factory that can handle a little extra blower rpm or am I being delusional?