[KenMaro]

I came from a mustang to my current Camaro. Both manuals. I have a second vehicle for winter driving though, so I can't give you any info there.

As far as moving from a mustang to the Camaro, for me, it handles better. The overall drive feels better, it's stiffer, it hugs corners, it's just all smiles. If you can find a used SS in the color you want, I would jump on it. I've only owned mine for a little over a year now but haven't regretted trading away the mustang one bit.

[IceGoaliePaul]

I drive my V6 Camaro year round in the frigid Alberta winters. I would say for the Canadian climate the heated seats and steering wheel are a must. Although the seats are quite weak for heat. You should get winter tires too but I'm too lazy and just ran with all seasons. Got stuck a few times and almost had a seizure from the constantly blinking traction control light. Also throw out your plastic brissled snow brush and find something softer to not damage the paint.

[Lucio_101]

Thank you again for the additional responses.

For the winter, I would be investing into winter wheels and tires as I run a set on my Mustang for the winter. I'm currently running Bridgestone Blizzak WS-80's and they have been awesome tires.

Otherwise, this has all been a huge help. I think I will be seeking out my options to try out a Camaro in the near future. I am located in Ottawa, Ontario, Canada if anyone on the forum has any good leads.

So far, the options around the area are quite slim in selection.

Otherwise, I will take any other wisdom there is offer. Thank you again.

[LT4Greg]

Welcome to the forum! Might I suggest a used 2017-2018 ZL1 with a M6. It will be more than an 2SS or even 1SS but might be worth the extra money. The 1SS 1LE is a good option too if you like a Camaro for occasional track use but the 2SS has a lot to offer over the 1SS. Just depends on your likes and budget but a used ZL1 would be the way to go in my opinion as I came from a 2016 2SS and 2010 modded 2SS before I bought the Z. I thought the LT4 would be too much for me but it has the extra hp and torque the LT1 doesn’t have and no I’m not knocking the LT1! Good luck on your decision and whichever Camaro you get will be a good choice!��

[arpad_m]

Lucio. TL;DR: no matter which V8 Camaro you buy, you'll be blown away.

Now if you don't mind reading some more, I suggest a 2017 or 2018 2SS manual with magnetic ride control (MRC) that makes for a surreal road handling experience for a car weighing 3700-3900 pounds, and if you want separate configurable "quiet" and "loud" exhaust sounds, the dual mode exhaust (NPP). Don't overthink the configuration, though, just make up your mind about these two options as they cannot be retrofitted and integrated, everything else, power adders, interior gizmos, body kits, wheels, brake kits etc. can be done later. The sunroof can't be retrofitted either, but you said you didn't want it anyway.

First model year cars (2016 in this case) are always buggy, plus based on ember1205's comment, it seems the new and substantially enhanced infotainment introduced in 2019 is still goofy in the 2020's. The pre-refresh, pre-fascia redesign Camaro looks absolutely badass, still a bit old school and masculine enough.

You have been and will continue to be advised against the A8 automatic transmission in the 2016-2018 (the one I also have) because of the torque converter shudder issue, which is overblown, but there is no way to convince the haters—however, if you don't mind the manual trans, it's a slam dunk, valuable choice, the Tremec TR-6060 is a stout and reliable unit.

The coupe has enough rear seat legroom and headroom for kids up to 13-14 years of age or smaller women. Definitely not a sedan, but my wife and kids never complain.

Storage is a non-issue, you can add various aftermarket accessories to help, and who gives a **** anyway, this is a sports car and not a junk hauler. Throw stuff on the rear seat or in the trunk, it's large enough, the only problem with it is the small opening, make sure you check that out because it can be a surprise after the Mustang.

Visibility is another non-issue, especially when you set the side mirrors correctly and you have the blind spot monitoring in the 2SS or ZL1.

[17rsvert]

Originally Posted by ember1205

- The erratic behavior of the various electronics. Yesterday, my car decided that it was only going to output about 12.6V from the alternator instead of the typical almost 14V....

I thought something was wrong with my car also until I read up on it.

That's not erratic behavior, you are probably just used to older charging systems where the alternator's output is always full blast and a voltage regulator controls it down to about a constant 14V. Your car has a smart charging system that adjusts the voltage depending on demand, that's why you'll see it down below 13V sometimes. I think it's supposed to prevent battery overcharging and save fuel.

[ember1205]

Originally Posted by 17rsvert

I thought something was wrong with my car also until I read up on it.

That's not erratic behavior, you are probably just used to older charging systems where the alternator's output is always full blast and a voltage regulator controls it down to about a constant 14V. Your car has a smart charging system that adjusts the voltage depending on demand, that's why you'll see it down below 13V sometimes. I think it's supposed to prevent battery overcharging and save fuel.

While I totally follow and agree with your logic, I'm not sure the conclusion is accurate. My '15 Silverado definitely shows variability in the charging output, but never drops down to the 12.5V area. The truck doesn't use an AGM battery (I don't believe, anyhow), and AGM's are much more sensitive to overcharging. So, again, I see the logic there.

Turn the car off and start it again and everything reverts back to exactly what I expect to see, though... That's the reason that I am calling foul and saying something is off here. Here's more specifics on the scenario:

I was at the dealership going over the car with the Service Manager before opening a case with Chevy. The car was off and we were walking around looking at things and discussing what we were seeing. He asked to see under the tonneau, so I opened the door, put the car into Service Mode, and tried opening it up slightly for him to see in there.

Due to my own stupidity at pressing the wrong side of the button, it wouldn't open and I had gone into and out of Service Mode three different times. Finally, I started the car and let it idle for 3-4 minutes while I opened the tonneau up and he checked out the area he was interested in. I turned the car back off.

I'm telling you all of this because I created a decent amount of battery drain through this process and offered the car zero opportunity to recover from it because the engine never went above idle.

Upon starting the car to leave the lot, the issues I described previously were present. I drove the car about three miles with the voltage never reading above 12.75 (the hash mark below 14). I shut the car off and restarted it and it immediately went back to the normal reading of almost 14.

So, power depletion with no recovery and it read low. Short charging window plus a restart and it shows 14? Nope. That doesn't make sense.

What's more concerning is that another member on here is having issues where his car will show the same "too low" reading periodically and every time it does, his car will not start again unless he jumps it. The charging system on his car seems to go into a "low output" mode and doesn't supply enough power to operate the car and the battery is continuing to be drained while he drives to work. When trying to start the car to come back home, nada and he has to get it jump-started then all is fine again.

Right now, I'm waiting on a call back from Chevy about my case. As the conversation wears on with them, I will be adding in the various oddities I have been encountering to determine if there is something more significant to worry about or if most of what I'm seeing is "cosmetic." Right now, it's speculation based on determining baseline behavior and then identifying the anomalies to that.

[Petrol Head]

Whatever the issues of a Camaro might be, only General Motors knows how to do a small block V8 and do it right. The 6.2 liter LT1 is what you buy a Camaro or a Corvette for. End of story. The sound and feel is like nothing else made today. The Camaro and Corvette really are the only cars built today on the planet that still feel and sound like muscle cars of the 60s and 70. The idle is lumpy, the gear shifter vibrates, your neck snaps back with just a tap of the throttle, when you rev it at idle the chassis torques left to right.

In the old days yes Mustangs with the old 302 or 351 or 390 did that too. Not so much anymore with the Coyote 302. Too smooth, too high reving.

Pure torque, no turbos or twin cams or complex 32 valves, just one cam in the block and 16 pushrods rocking lifters to open and close 16 large valves the way mother nature intended.

[detamble13]

Seeing you're also in Ontario I recommend Krown rust proofing your car every winter.

[avalonandl]

Lucio:

Camaro is head and shoulders above the Stang.

I have a set of SS sized Michelin all seasons AS3+ for sale cheap on SS wheels...

[Thill444]

I am coming from a 2018 GT350 and now have a 2020 SS1LE.

IMHO, you really need to drive these cars and compare the pros and cons of each. If you have never driven a Camao go take one for a test drive.

Pros. It is more of a sports car than the Mustang. Better handling. More of a cockpit feel. More torque down low. It feels and drives lighter. You sit lower to the ground. The Tremec 6th speed manual is far superior to the MT82 (or whatever they have in the Mustang now).

Cons. Tighter cabin (for both front and rear passengers). Worse visibility. Small trunk opening.

I would highly recommend getting the magnetic suspension in the Camaro. It's the best of all worlds for daily driving and or spirited driving/track.

It will come down to a test drive. The Camaro and Mustang really are different cars/platforms. Pros and cons to both. Buy what you like the best.

[Lucio_101]

Doing another check in on the responses. Thank you again! Also thank you for taking the time to give good responses. I'm not going to lie, I was worried I was going to get roasted for driving the competitor vehicle.

I'm definitely itching now to go and try one. If everything goes according to plan, I'm going to go look at a 16 1SS M6 to get a feel for the vehicle.

Ideally (if I was to go forward with getting one) I'm set on a 2SS (either with/without the 1LE package). I do like my performance hardware. But from what it looks like, the 2SS on its own is a great package.

Will update on my experience.

[Petrol Head]

Originally Posted by Lucio_101

Doing another check in on the responses. Thank you again! Also thank you for taking the time to give good responses. I'm not going to lie, I was worried I was going to get roasted for driving the competitor vehicle.

I'm definitely itching now to go and try one. If everything goes according to plan, I'm going to go look at a 16 1SS M6 to get a feel for the vehicle.

Ideally (if I was to go forward with getting one) I'm set on a 2SS (either with/without the 1LE package). I do like my performance hardware. But from what it looks like, the 2SS on its own is a great package.

Will update on my experience.

A lot of people love the 1SS or now the LT1 for their lack of features while still giving you SS performance.

But you'll never regret getting a 2SS simply for dual zone climate control if you have a significant other who insists that the world is eternally zero Kelvin, or -460 degrees Fahrenheit - the scientific measurement of absolute zero.

[Umbriel]

Originally Posted by ember1205

While I totally follow and agree with your logic, I'm not sure the conclusion is accurate. My '15 Silverado definitely shows variability in the charging output, but never drops down to the 12.5V area. The truck doesn't use an AGM battery (I don't believe, anyhow), and AGM's are much more sensitive to overcharging. So, again, I see the logic there.

Turn the car off and start it again and everything reverts back to exactly what I expect to see, though... That's the reason that I am calling foul and saying something is off here. Here's more specifics on the scenario:

I was at the dealership going over the car with the Service Manager before opening a case with Chevy. The car was off and we were walking around looking at things and discussing what we were seeing. He asked to see under the tonneau, so I opened the door, put the car into Service Mode, and tried opening it up slightly for him to see in there.

Due to my own stupidity at pressing the wrong side of the button, it wouldn't open and I had gone into and out of Service Mode three different times. Finally, I started the car and let it idle for 3-4 minutes while I opened the tonneau up and he checked out the area he was interested in. I turned the car back off.

I'm telling you all of this because I created a decent amount of battery drain through this process and offered the car zero opportunity to recover from it because the engine never went above idle.

Upon starting the car to leave the lot, the issues I described previously were present. I drove the car about three miles with the voltage never reading above 12.75 (the hash mark below 14). I shut the car off and restarted it and it immediately went back to the normal reading of almost 14.

So, power depletion with no recovery and it read low. Short charging window plus a restart and it shows 14? Nope. That doesn't make sense.

What's more concerning is that another member on here is having issues where his car will show the same "too low" reading periodically and every time it does, his car will not start again unless he jumps it. The charging system on his car seems to go into a "low output" mode and doesn't supply enough power to operate the car and the battery is continuing to be drained while he drives to work. When trying to start the car to come back home, nada and he has to get it jump-started then all is fine again.

Right now, I'm waiting on a call back from Chevy about my case. As the conversation wears on with them, I will be adding in the various oddities I have been encountering to determine if there is something more significant to worry about or if most of what I'm seeing is "cosmetic." Right now, it's speculation based on determining baseline behavior and then identifying the anomalies to that.

This sounds completely normal to me, starting the car is going to have a huge drain on the battery versus running electrical things on it. My car acts just like yours and I hardly ever see it running 14 volts and everything is fine, when it senses it needs a charge on the battery it will turn the alternator on.