[Pro-2A]

Unfortunately, my check engine light shut off this morning and the vehicle didn't misbehave for them to duplicate the problem. I'll look into water proofing the power distribution boxes (under the hood and in the trunk) with some WD-40 after I check all the connections. You'd think GM would give Chevrolet more QC than what they have, because it's not good. Moisture is a basic element that vehicles should be made to withstand. Fortunately, I have a manual transmission so I'm still able to move the car and shift it when there is a problem. I believe that if I had an automatic, and received the network error, that would affect the transmission too.

This Corona is really throwing a wrench into things with factories shut down, parts distributions, etc. We need to get back to work!

[SteveV]

Don't let the Dems hear you say that.

Wanting to go back to work means you don't care about people's health...

Personally, I think that is BS. There are ways to go back to work and still be safe...

[LT4Greg]

Agree SteveV, I’m still going into work and thankful I am employed. Our economy and country definitely have to get going again to avert a serious disaster that will have a lasting impact on the USA for years.

[Fraxum]

Originally Posted by Pro-2A

Well here we go, got in my car the other day, pressed the start button and I got a "poor crank". Pressed again, car started and received a Low Fuel light, a Svc. ESC and no cluster gauges. The HVAC was non responsive, no NPP functionality, and the beloved "Check Engine" light on the dash. I cycled the start / stop process again, while opening the driver's door in between (to reset the PCM and same results. I continued to drive the car, pulled into an empty parking lot, shut it off again and this time it started with full cluster functionality, functioning HVAC & NPP, but with a check engine light.

I took it home, plugged my OBD II scanner in and pulled U0100 & P069E codes. Needless to say, I'm a bit nervous as both of these codes have a history of being difficult to diagnose & repair. I'm taking it into the dealer in the morning.

Sounds like a possible short, thoughts?.

All stock so far? My 2015 ZL1 had a short Chevy could not fix in 2 months. But then Chevy traded me a new car. But there the short there was in the Stabilitrac system.

My plan now is to drive the LT1 for a year before I jump on any mods. These Camaros are super complicated, even the lowly LT1. But the way they drive they are so worth it.

[Pro-2A]

Originally Posted by Fraxum

All stock so far? My 2015 ZL1 had a short Chevy could not fix in 2 months. But then Chevy traded me a new car. But there the short there was in the Stabilitrac system.

My plan now is to drive the LT1 for a year before I jump on any mods. These Camaros are super complicated, even the lowly LT1. But the way they drive they are so worth it.

Yeah, stock. I mean, throttle body, k&n air filter, mud guards, wheels / tires, pedals, fuel filler door, tint, basic sh&*, but stock.

It rained profusely here the other day and I thought for sure it would act up but didn't. Crazy. I washed it today with my 3300 psi pressure washer, and again, no issues. I did unplug my Blue-tooth adapter from my OBD II port that communicates with my Torque II app, maybe that was drawing power and creating a low battery issue?, who knows. I did drive it today also, many short trip ignition cycles and no problems. I also checked the power distribution boxes, one under the hood and one in the trunk, all seamed well. I sprayed some water displacement 40 in there just to be on the safe side.

Weird sh&^! Anyway, yeah it's a blast to drive, I can't wait for the track to open here so I run this beast!

[Memphis SS]

Originally Posted by SteveV

Don't let the Dems hear you say that.

Wanting to go back to work means you don't care about people's health...

Personally, I think that is BS. There are ways to go back to work and still be safe...

Problem is most people don’t think they will get it and don’t even try to comply with being safe for them or others.. My brother is a first responder on the fire department and I work for a law enforcement agency, we both have talked about how a lot of people blow it off or don’t really care (No gloves no mask and just walk right up to other people). I’m afraid we are fixing to see a ramp up in cases as states open up.. I pray I’m wrong.

And by the way we just had the most deaths in the US from the virus today.

Stay safe out there fellow Camaro buddies.. I’ve already lost one friend to the virus last month.

[Pro-2A]

***UPDATE***

Well, after over a month of driving it regularly, and multiple start-stop cycles I haven't been able to duplicate the problem. What I've learned though is when starting the vehicle, I MUST continue to hold the "push-to-start" button for at least a second before releasing it. Basically, just hold the button until the vehicle starts, then release it. I began to change my start process after giving it much thought and realizing I might not be holding the button long enough to allow all the systems to receive proper voltage signal. No problems since. The issue was not all of the many systems would "power up" as they should causing dark cluster, check engine light, fuel module issues, etc. So no momentary pushes of the button like EVERY other "push-to-start" car I had! I'm just glad the there really never was a problem, just operator error!

Thank you to everyone that chimed in with there logical advice and best wishes, much appreciated!

Also, my replacement rally stripes came in and the dealer is coordinating install with a 3rd party vendor to install them!

[caSStro18]

"So no momentary pushes of the button like EVERY other "push-to-start" car I had!"

That doesn't seem right to me. But, if it works the way you are doing it I guess that's all that matters. Glad to hear it's working!

[Abubaca]

Just saw this. .....I had this happen (similar) on my 16. First week I had it. I was just giving it a firm, but quick full depress. Once it didn't quite start, though it turned over. Sounded like a weak battery. The next day, it started but some of the screen functions didn't work. A shut off, and restart fixed it. I've since made sure I give a solid push until I hear a good few solid cranks. Hard to measure time, but maybe an extra half second?


While I can't confirm for sure that this was the issue, I had the same thing happen with my 2005 Trailblazer LTZ. While it wasn't pushbutton start, it did have the same kind of switch. You didn't have to have the key turned until it started like old cars. A quick twist of the key and you could release it. Don't know what that's called, but it's likely the same circuitry as modern push buttons. REGARDLESS.... I didn't know it had that feature as it was my first car that started that way. A few months in I short/twisted the key, and to my surprise it started! Upon realizing how it worked I'll admit I almost tried to see how short of a key turn I could use and it still start. I had multiple electrical issues and a few slow weird crank but no-start occurrences. Didn't take me long to stop doing it! ....but on occasion I would short stroke it by accident and sure enough....electrical glitch.


Who knows....just my experience.

[Pro-2A]

Originally Posted by Abubaca

Just saw this. .....I had this happen (similar) on my 16. First week I had it. I was just giving it a firm, but quick full depress. Once it didn't quite start, though it turned over. Sounded like a weak battery. The next day, it started but some of the screen functions didn't work. A shut off, and restart fixed it. I've since made sure I give a solid push until I hear a good few solid cranks. Hard to measure time, but maybe an extra half second?


While I can't confirm for sure that this was the issue, I had the same thing happen with my 2005 Trailblazer LTZ. While it wasn't pushbutton start, it did have the same kind of switch. You didn't have to have the key turned until it started like old cars. A quick twist of the key and you could release it. Don't know what that's called, but it's likely the same circuitry as modern push buttons. REGARDLESS.... I didn't know it had that feature as it was my first car that started that way. A few months in I short/twisted the key, and to my surprise it started! Upon realizing how it worked I'll admit I almost tried to see how short of a key turn I could use and it still start. I had multiple electrical issues and a few slow weird crank but no-start occurrences. Didn't take me long to stop doing it! ....but on occasion I would short stroke it by accident and sure enough....electrical glitch.


Who knows....just my experience.

You're absolutely right, the term is "tip start". Some systems are robust enough not to have to keep it turned in order to start, but it would appear that's an area Chevrolet cuts costs. My Cadillac isn't like that, quick push and starts right up. When I spoke to the dealer to give them an update, my advisor recalled a customer with a small SUV having a similar problem and some "poor starts"(engine not quite turning over). I had a couple of those too!

Anyway, it's not a big deal, I just have to remember to keep the button pushed for a half second longer.

[Pro-2A]

***Upd #2***

Well, it happened again. Got in after pumping gas and got a "poor crank". Basically, half of a crankshaft revolution than nothing. Pushed the start button again and fired, but with no cluster lights, NPP defaulted to "stealth", no auto headlights, nothing. Shut it off and started again, then, dash lit up like a Christmas tree and blinking lights everywhere. Shut it off Saturday night and brought it to the local Chevy dealer this morning. Explained everything for the 2nd time and they immediately took it in the back for diagnosis. I received a call about 3:00 p.m. from the dealer telling me they bench tested the battery and found a dead cell, battery voltage at 4.5 volts and 450 CCA's. Based on this information, battery was S M O K E D .

So, hopefully this issue is behind us! No I didn't ask them about how they tested it last time, not battle I wanted to fight.

[RyanR623]

Originally Posted by Pro-2A

***Upd #2***

Well, it happened again. Got in after pumping gas and got a "poor crank". Basically, half of a crankshaft revolution than nothing. Pushed the start button again and fired, but with no cluster lights, NPP defaulted to "stealth", no auto headlights, nothing. Shut it off and started again, then, dash lit up like a Christmas tree and blinking lights everywhere. Shut it off Saturday night and brought it to the local Chevy dealer this morning. Explained everything for the 2nd time and they immediately took it in the back for diagnosis. I received a call about 3:00 p.m. from the dealer telling me they bench tested the battery and found a dead cell, battery voltage at 4.5 volts and 450 CCA's. Based on this information, battery was S M O K E D .

So, hopefully this issue is behind us! No I didn't ask them about how they tested it last time, not battle I wanted to fight.

Glad it was only a battery

[Invertalon]

Glad you got it figured out!


Ran into a similar issue with my girlfriends Mazda 3... One day, very slow turnover and all the lights on the dash. Power steering was phasing in/out, was really weird. Let the car run/idle to get the battery to charge in case it was that, but no luck.

Took the battery to autozone and they did a check and found the battery was fine (no dead cells), however was basically dead charge wise. The alternator won't charge it where it needs to be. They kept the battery overnight and did a deep cycle charge or whatever and all has been perfect since!



Fingers crossed your issues are all fixed up, too!