[Wyzz Kydd]

Originally Posted by TRZ06

The rear solid cradle bushing swap is a 8-10 hour job.

Yep, at current shop rates that would be something pretty far down on my list of priorities.

[Dave-ROR]

Originally Posted by Wyzz Kydd

Yep, at current shop rates that would be something pretty far down on my list of priorities.

I would agree, but it'll likely move up my list a bit. The feeling that he described I am very familiar with from tracking the car and I was blaming the fancy electronics/etc for doing weird stuff.. but if the cradle bushings fix it.. I'm all in.

Now, I have presses, etc and can do the work myself so I won't have the same financial obligation to complete the work so that is a difference of course.

[Wyzz Kydd]

Yeah if I had a mechanically inclined buddy I would try to work something out, but $1500+ for labor then the cost of parts too is just a bridge too far right now.

[Eldi Z]

Originally Posted by TRZ06

The rear solid cradle bushing swap is a 8-10 hour job.

I remember we talked about this. I just cant imagine why it takes so long. I want to do it in my buddy's workshop with his presses and related tools, but don't want to invest so much time.

Do you have a link to the parts? Incl. prices, Etc.

[TRZ06]

Originally Posted by Eldi Z

I remember we talked about this. I just cant imagine why it takes so long. I want to do it in my buddy's workshop with his presses and related tools, but don't want to invest so much time.

Do you have a link to the parts? Incl. prices, Etc.

https://www.gmperformancemotor.com/parts/84341929.html

[DaveC113]

Originally Posted by TRZ06

https://www.gmperformancemotor.com/parts/84341929.html

Voids warranty? Just the rear diff? They must feel the solid mounting is harder on the diff I guess, but weird since the ZLE comes with those bushings + a warranty.

Looking at the kit sometimes those bushings are indeed a PITA to remove but 10 hours seems like at least 7 too many for anyone with experience working in a functional shop. Garage time can always get long without all the best tools, but in a shop w/press?

[TRZ06]

Originally Posted by DaveC113

Voids warranty? Just the rear diff? They must feel the solid mounting is harder on the diff I guess, but weird since the ZLE comes with those bushings + a warranty.

Looking at the kit sometimes those bushings are indeed a PITA to remove but 10 hours seems like at least 7 too many for anyone with experience working in a functional shop. Garage time can always get long without all the best tools, but in a shop w/press?

While yes it is supposed to void warranty, none would know it was done unless you were looking for it. Before I had it done at a race shop I contacted a dealer to do it and they quoted me 8 hrs, AND they suggested that I have it done at a performance shop to avoid warranty issues.

It's not, trust me. I have talked to 3 people thus far who have done this swap. All of them were in the 8-10 hour range.

You do not understand how hard it is to get those bushings out, you have to drop the rear cradle from the car, and the new bushings do not go in easily either.

[DaveC113]

Originally Posted by TRZ06

While yes it is supposed to void warranty, none would know it was done unless you were looking for it. Before I had it done at a race shop I contacted a dealer to do it and they quoted me 8 hrs, AND they suggested that I have it done at a performance shop to avoid warranty issues.

It's not, trust me. I have talked to 3 people thus far who have done this swap. All of them were in the 8-10 hour range.

You do not understand how hard it is to get those bushings out, you have to drop the rear cradle from the car, and the new bushings do not go in easily either.

That's too bad as the parts aren't too expensive. What changes do you notice with the new bushings?

[Eldi Z]

Originally Posted by TRZ06

https://www.gmperformancemotor.com/parts/84341929.html

Thanks.

Do you experience a harsher ride on the public roads compared to how it was with the stock bushings?

[avalonandl]

Originally Posted by Ethel19

As the person who started this thread I have to say a couple of things.
First, I really appreciate the varied opinions people have brought to the table. Second, I also appreciate how people here can have different points of view without anyone insulting anyone else. Everyone respects everyone else’s perspective. Thank you.
It does seem to be that direction of the tread has morphed a bit into the use of the car. I should have made that a little bit more clear from the start.
First let me say I have no intent to track the car. I’ve had enough cars in the past that I’ve tracked that I don’t feel the need to at my age. (Not to knock on anyone tracking their cars at my age of 64 or any other age.....track at 84 if you can, good on you) so you might ask, what’s the point in getting a 1LE if I’m not going to track it? Fair enough of a question. I mean just get a regular 2SS for that matter, right?
I’ll tell you why. Because even if I’m going to get on an on ramp onto the freeway, or go thru some back roads, or go get milk in my car, I want feel the “feel” that the 1LE has. It corners flat as a pancake, the steering is perfectly weighted, the short shifter is way better, IMHO, than not just a 2SS, but also any car I’ve ever driven. Why not have that enjoyment ALL the time? Not just a track, ALL THE TIME! I don’t need to drive like a nut case to enjoy what this car has to offer. Even at regular speeds this car just seems to be fantastic.
I want to experience that feeling all the time.
Again, thanks for all the input. Anyone else want to throw their 2 cents worth in?

The 1LE will have essentially the same costs as a 2SS except for the brake pads and tire cost extras. Oil changes are expensive because 10 quarts Mobil 1 or equivalent, tires will be pricey (slighly more than a 2SS).

[TRZ06]

Originally Posted by avalonandl

The 1LE will have essentially the same costs as a 2SS except for the brake pads and tire cost extras. Oil changes are expensive because 10 quarts Mobil 1 or equivalent, tires will be pricey (slighly more than a 2SS).

Don’t forget to add in higher fuel and insurance costs.

Amortized on a monthly basis, a ZL1 1LE is about $500/mth more a month VS the SS 1LE when you factor in everything on an annual basis

I ran the calculations when I was deciding which route to go.

[TrackClub]

Originally Posted by Ethel19

As the person who started this thread I have to say a couple of things.
First, I really appreciate the varied opinions people have brought to the table. Second, I also appreciate how people here can have different points of view without anyone insulting anyone else. Everyone respects everyone else’s perspective. Thank you.
It does seem to be that direction of the tread has morphed a bit into the use of the car. I should have made that a little bit more clear from the start.
First let me say I have no intent to track the car. I’ve had enough cars in the past that I’ve tracked that I don’t feel the need to at my age. (Not to knock on anyone tracking their cars at my age of 64 or any other age.....track at 84 if you can, good on you) so you might ask, what’s the point in getting a 1LE if I’m not going to track it? Fair enough of a question. I mean just get a regular 2SS for that matter, right?
I’ll tell you why. Because even if I’m going to get on an on ramp onto the freeway, or go thru some back roads, or go get milk in my car, I want feel the “feel” that the 1LE has. It corners flat as a pancake, the steering is perfectly weighted, the short shifter is way better, IMHO, than not just a 2SS, but also any car I’ve ever driven. Why not have that enjoyment ALL the time? Not just a track, ALL THE TIME! I don’t need to drive like a nut case to enjoy what this car has to offer. Even at regular speeds this car just seems to be fantastic.
I want to experience that feeling all the time.
Again, thanks for all the input. Anyone else want to throw their 2 cents worth in?

My 2 cents:
ZL1 is pretty much exactly an SS 1LE with 200 extra HP and TQ better brakes and slightly nicer interior. Plus a choice of a manual or a superb 10 speed auto (which is track capable). If this were to be my last car, id spring for a ZL1 for sure. As much as i absolutely love my SS 1le extra power would be very nice indeed. Yes it is more money and zl1s almost never get any discounts (unlike ss 1le) but it is MORE car for sure. Maint cost wise id expect both of them to be virtually equal, especially for street only. Additionally, since zl1 has wider fenders and side skirts you wont have to worry about crap being thrown onto rockers and rear side wheel panel.
Last thought: zl1 offers almost a z06 performance with 2 extra seats and much better comfort because of its Recaros - at a huge discount. It also doesnt have over heating issues even on a race track. Superb package imo. Of course so is the ss 1le for far less money. But it aint a 650hp monster

[Wyzz Kydd]

Originally Posted by TRZ06

Don’t forget to add in higher fuel and insurance costs.

Amortized on a monthly basis, a ZL1 1LE is about $500/mth more a month VS the SS 1LE when you factor in everything on an annual basis

I ran the calculations when I was deciding which route to go.

In my 2016 1SS I averaged 20.9 MPG over 40,000+ miles.
In my 2018 1SS 1LE I've averaged 17.8 MPG over just under 3,000 miles.

My insurance cost went down just a bit when I traded in the 2016 for the 2018, not sure why.

[Atlas24601]

Once the warranty is up I expect some of the repair costs to be a bit high. Probably still nowhere near what european performance cars would cost you though.

Specifically Im betting the eLSD, magnetic shocks, and PTM stuff to be spendy if they need replacing. Other than those it shouldn't be too bad I bet.