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Old 07-30-2018, 06:19 PM   #43
Traumamoma
 
Drives: 2017 SS 1LE Summit White
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1LE

Chemical Guys Meticulous Matte for the vinyl wrap. Wash with mild car soap, rinse, wipe mostly dry, spray product on and wipe dry. Works great. Adams detail spray works well also, as does Ultima waterless wash, but Chemical Guys product is the best.
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Old 07-31-2018, 07:42 AM   #44
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Wow thank you everybody for your responses!!

The one thing I think is funny, is nobody mentioned the catch can being a must add early on, or at all. Must not be as big of an issue in this car as i thought??

I appreciate helping explain the brakes and break in procedures, I am working on those now as I am driving.

I just ordered various adams products, I REALLY DO NOT WANT TO GET SWIRLS. So I am starting fresh with all car wash products.


For the side skirts and clear protection on the side panels, are you guys just putting this on yourself or bringing it in? What is the general cost? I thought the films etc. were like 2,000.
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Old 07-31-2018, 08:19 AM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Teneck83 View Post
First torque your front end links ! 89ft lbs top nut and 96 on lower nut. It will wiggle itself loose
is this an actual thing? I read some of the posts on this, has it never been address with the later models? Does it only become an issue at the track?
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Old 07-31-2018, 08:20 AM   #46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MATTY-1LE View Post
Step 1: Add a skip shift eliminator
Step 2: Add a clear bra to the front bumper
Step 3: Add rock guards- i went with RPI designs as they hang low as heck
Step 4: Add clear to side panels because rocks will hit there regardless of guard or not sometimes
Step 5: Change oil early on. Did mine at 1000
Step 6: Change diff oil - still havent done mine at 3500 miles :(
Thanks for heads up on RPI I do like those, will probably do the same thing. What clear did you use on side panels? Same with clear bra, what did you use?
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Old 07-31-2018, 10:13 AM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blackknight0512 View Post
I just ordered various adams products, I REALLY DO NOT WANT TO GET SWIRLS. So I am starting fresh with all car wash products.

If this is your keeper car...

1) do the oil change early. Let out those metal shards!
Lease..eh up to you.

2)Xpel 100%. The sides of my car went through a rock war apparently.

3) You'll never have a 100% un-swirled car. Your going to scratch it at some point..automated car wash, 3 bucket method,,4 bucket method..etc etc..best thing you can do is limit them and then when they do occur..correct!

i just mention this because the first site of swirls can cause an upset

4) Enjoy the hell out of it!!
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Old 07-31-2018, 10:55 AM   #48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blackknight0512 View Post
Thanks for heads up on RPI I do like those, will probably do the same thing. What clear did you use on side panels? Same with clear bra, what did you use?
For the front a shop installed Suntek, it has held up very well. Cost me 500 to do total in case youre curious on price. The sides i havent done yet. I just havent had time but i am going to do those myself. On amazon they sell a strip of xpel that is like 6" by 84" and luckily that is all i need as the oem clear on the side takes most of the rock beating and i only need about 6 more inches of height
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Old 07-31-2018, 12:20 PM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blackknight0512 View Post
Wow thank you everybody for your responses!!

The one thing I think is funny, is nobody mentioned the catch can being a must add early on, or at all. Must not be as big of an issue in this car as i thought??

I appreciate helping explain the brakes and break in procedures, I am working on those now as I am driving.

I just ordered various adams products, I REALLY DO NOT WANT TO GET SWIRLS. So I am starting fresh with all car wash products.


For the side skirts and clear protection on the side panels, are you guys just putting this on yourself or bringing it in? What is the general cost? I thought the films etc. were like 2,000.
I did the catch can almost right away. Even before the skip shift eliminator.
The very first was the rock guards.
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Old 07-31-2018, 01:33 PM   #50
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Im glad someone created this thread because now i am thinking i really need to get a catch can and that clear film protectant on the side. Who knows maybe even an excuse to get some new side skirts
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Old 07-31-2018, 02:18 PM   #51
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#1 CLAY BAR - I clayed mine within the first 1,000 miles and what the clay bar picked up was mind boggling!

Chemical Guys Meticulous Matte is definitely a must have!
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Old 07-31-2018, 06:55 PM   #52
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MATTY-1LE View Post
Im glad someone created this thread because now i am thinking i really need to get a catch can and that clear film protectant on the side. Who knows maybe even an excuse to get some new side skirts
Film protection for sure especially rear quarters.
Side skirts also a good idea to keep thr crap off the sides plus it does add a bit of aero advantage But they aint cheap.
Catch can: debate continues and likely will forever. I dont have one and dont plan on installing one and havent lost a wink of sleep over it even tho i track her regularly. But thats me and everyone has their own reasons and whatever makes them sleep better
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Old 08-12-2018, 08:36 AM   #53
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Don't exceed 4000 rpm? Serious. Do you have to drive like a grandma for 1500 miles?

Quote:
Originally Posted by TrackClub View Post
To the OP:

Id echo what PBS said, plus id offer the following thoughts:

1. Read both manuals. Dont exceed 4000rpm during the first 1500 miles to ensure the diff is properly broken in.
I too changed the oil at 500 miles then diff (main pumpkin only) and tranny fluids at 1500.

2. Rock guards are a must. Also Xpel or similar on rear quarter panels ahead of both rear wheels. That area gets the most crap thrown at it (even with rock guards). Second priority are rocker panels below the doors. Front of the car is nice but optional imo.

3. Zl1addons permanent lift pucks is another must have for when a car gets hoisted for any service. Before the car gets lifted even at a dealer make sure to alert them to use the pucks as lift points!

4. Track alignment is nice even on a street but not a must until you take it to a track. Do it before you track it then leave it for dd.

5. Dot4 brake fluid is a must for track bit not required as long as you only dd the car. Once you change it for track just leave it there. Castrol SRF seems a strong consensus here.

6. Another thing you must change before track (but not for street driving) is motor oil: 0w40 or 5w40 Dexos 2 oil is a must for track duty. Also good for dd but more expensive than std 5w30 that GM dealers carry and will likley use for your free 2 oil changes.

7. Read my post on various driving modes, what they do and how to set them up. I will post a link to it separately.
https://www.camaro6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=496996

Congrats and have fun!

Ps also set up your side mirrors properly- see my post above.
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Old 08-12-2018, 08:49 AM   #54
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Yes because of a trick thing called E-LSD.
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Old 08-12-2018, 08:52 AM   #55
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What could happen to the E-LSD if you drive rev past 4000 rpm?
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Old 08-12-2018, 08:55 AM   #56
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According to the manual it could get damaged. First fluid change comes out looking like tar and the number of metal shavings captured on magnetic plugs gives another hint...
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