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Old 07-30-2018, 06:29 AM   #15
Atlas24601
 
Drives: 2018 SS 1LE
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TRZ06 View Post
If you position your side mirrors correctly, there is no need for bubble mirrors. Assuming you don't just have to look at the rear upper quarter panel of your car.

I can slowly let a car creep up from behind me and slowly let them pass me and at no point are they fully invisible.

If you have a 2SS, all the better with blind spot monitoring

If they are positioned properly, you should not see your rear quarter panel and the headlights at night of cars behind you are barely visible

I know how to position the mirrors and I still get a substantial blind spot. At least I think I do. Ive never had this problem in any car before. I adjust the side mirrors to where I just barely cant see the body of my car at all. Then I go out on the road and play with the up/down adjustment of the mirrors until they are where I like it best.

The little bubble mirrors cost me about $7 and work well for me. I have the 1SS 1LE so no blind spot monitoring.
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Old 07-30-2018, 07:01 AM   #16
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Originally Posted by DaggerMouth View Post
Adam's Saude microfiber brush. A must to maintain the steeling wheel and knob.
Got mine on the way already.

I was supposed to have it last week but it never made it to my house. I got a message saying my package was damaged and being sent back to shipper. New package should arrive Thursday.
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Old 07-30-2018, 07:05 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Atlas24601 View Post
I know how to position the mirrors and I still get a substantial blind spot. At least I think I do. Ive never had this problem in any car before. I adjust the side mirrors to where I just barely cant see the body of my car at all. Then I go out on the road and play with the up/down adjustment of the mirrors until they are where I like it best.

The little bubble mirrors cost me about $7 and work well for me. I have the 1SS 1LE so no blind spot monitoring.
If you still have a substantial or even partial blind spot this means your side mirrors are not pointing OUT sufficiently. The left one should be pointed out so in order to see the left side of your own car you need to move your head to the left quite a bit towards the left window. The right morror should be pointing out so in order to see the right side of your car your head should be moved on par with a console.

To test it and to ensure both mirrors are set up correctly:

Any car approaching from behind should first be visible in a centre rear view mirror. Then as the passing car moves to over take you, HALF of it should be visible in your rear view mirror and the other HALF of it should pop in in your side mirror (either left or right depending which side of your car they are passing you on). Then the passing car disappears from your rear view mirror and is fully visible in yout side mirror. This means that car is now in your "blind spot" or rather approaching it. It will remian in that side mirror as it comes almost fully along side you. Then it will disappear from your side mirror but be well visible in your peripheral vision.

Once you try it out a couple of times you may have to adjust the side mirrors a bit to learn the sweet spot. Once you do it becomes a second nature to check them for proper set up (in case they have moved a bit).

Bottom line, properly set up side mirrors eliminate any blind spot completely. As in 100%. It is not only invaluable during dd but especially on track where rubber necking is not an option. Google is full on info on how to set up the mirrors with examples, etc. It is surprisingly easy. The key is to check that while a car is passing you half of it is visible in the rear view mirror WHILE the other half is visible in a side mirror.
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Old 07-30-2018, 07:24 AM   #18
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To the OP:

Id echo what PBS said, plus id offer the following thoughts:

1. Read both manuals. Dont exceed 4000rpm during the first 1500 miles to ensure the diff is properly broken in.
I too changed the oil at 500 miles then diff (main pumpkin only) and tranny fluids at 1500.

2. Rock guards are a must. Also Xpel or similar on rear quarter panels ahead of both rear wheels. That area gets the most crap thrown at it (even with rock guards). Second priority are rocker panels below the doors. Front of the car is nice but optional imo.

3. Zl1addons permanent lift pucks is another must have for when a car gets hoisted for any service. Before the car gets lifted even at a dealer make sure to alert them to use the pucks as lift points!

4. Track alignment is nice even on a street but not a must until you take it to a track. Do it before you track it then leave it for dd.

5. Dot4 brake fluid is a must for track bit not required as long as you only dd the car. Once you change it for track just leave it there. Castrol SRF seems a strong consensus here.

6. Another thing you must change before track (but not for street driving) is motor oil: 0w40 or 5w40 Dexos 2 oil is a must for track duty. Also good for dd but more expensive than std 5w30 that GM dealers carry and will likley use for your free 2 oil changes.

7. Read my post on various driving modes, what they do and how to set them up. I will post a link to it separately.
https://www.camaro6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=496996

Congrats and have fun!

Ps also set up your side mirrors properly- see my post above.
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Old 07-30-2018, 08:23 AM   #19
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Originally Posted by blackknight0512 View Post
Thank you! I am glad you mentioned bedding the brakes. I was reading the manual and I saw that section. I have not done so yet, and I have 110 miles on it. Still go ahead and bed them when I can?

I was going to change the oil at mile 500 for the first time.

I would like to try out tracking it, because I have never done it before but not until it has a few thousand miles on it.

Why change the brake fluid to dot 4?

Thanks for the advice, and pointing me in the right directions!!
When you are ready to track it look up chintrackdays.com - they are the best local group to track with IMO.

Personally I'd suggest Sebring over PBIR or Homestead.. those tracks are closer to you but both suck IMO.

If you do go to Sebring I'm sure you'll find a few of us there....
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Old 07-30-2018, 08:25 AM   #20
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Drive it and enjoy. It's already one of the best cars on the road.
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Old 07-30-2018, 08:42 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Atlas24601 View Post
I know how to position the mirrors and I still get a substantial blind spot. At least I think I do. Ive never had this problem in any car before. I adjust the side mirrors to where I just barely cant see the body of my car at all.
You are doing it wrong. That means you are setting up your SIDE view mirrors to be redundant with your REAR view mirror. You should not be able to see the side of your vehicle, which implies you are seeing backwards, not sideways.
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Old 07-30-2018, 09:12 AM   #22
Atlas24601
 
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Originally Posted by JamesNoBrakes View Post
You are doing it wrong. That means you are setting up your SIDE view mirrors to be redundant with your REAR view mirror. You should not be able to see the side of your vehicle, which implies you are seeing backwards, not sideways.
Ill look into it. This is how Ive set up my mirrors on every car Ive ever driven before and Ive never had any blindspot issues with any other vehicle setting them up this way. That said, the sticck on bubble mirrors already took care of the issue. The combination of a huge b pillar, low seating position, and tiny rear side windows is not a winning combination for blindspots.
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Old 07-30-2018, 09:59 AM   #23
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Step 1: Add a skip shift eliminator
Step 2: Add a clear bra to the front bumper
Step 3: Add rock guards- i went with RPI designs as they hang low as heck
Step 4: Add clear to side panels because rocks will hit there regardless of guard or not sometimes
Step 5: Change oil early on. Did mine at 1000
Step 6: Change diff oil - still havent done mine at 3500 miles :(
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Old 07-30-2018, 10:03 AM   #24
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I would avoid the ZL1Addons rock guards mentioned in the OP. The 3M tape is fully visible from the sides of the vehicle, and it collects dirt and grit right up until the point the heat causes it to fail and you have the stupid piece of plastic flopping around on your car. Avoid.
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Old 07-30-2018, 10:09 AM   #25
Teneck83
 
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First torque your front end links ! 89ft lbs top nut and 96 on lower nut. It will wiggle itself loose
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Old 07-30-2018, 10:21 AM   #26
WCKD 1LE
 
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Originally Posted by S2K+1LE View Post
I would avoid the ZL1Addons rock guards mentioned in the OP. The 3M tape is fully visible from the sides of the vehicle, and it collects dirt and grit right up until the point the heat causes it to fail and you have the stupid piece of plastic flopping around on your car. Avoid.
I installed mine, and you cant see the tape at all.
Plus they cover better than the OE ones.
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Old 07-30-2018, 10:22 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Atlas24601 View Post
A quality cellphone holder. There is really no good spot to set your phone in the car otherwise. I got one made by proclip that clips beside the shifter on the passenger side. https://www.proclipusa.com/product/8...-console-mount

Also get some stick on "bubble" mirrors to help improve the side visibility.


Love this holder




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Old 07-30-2018, 10:33 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WCKD 1LE View Post
I installed mine, and you cant see the tape at all.
Plus they cover better than the OE ones.
Yes you can, it's intrinsic to the design.

If you're happy with them, cool... but you can see the adhesive from the side.
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