[iPODFAN11]

This...this is just bad. A decent 2.5 ton Harbor Freight jack and jack stands are 200% more trustworthy than your setup.

[Allez]

That first picture really made me cringe . . .

[S2K+1LE]

How is this thread still up? I really hope no one skims the first post and tries this... I'd hate to be hosting the liability.

[Larrio Andretti]

You’ve convinced yourself this is a good idea but you’re going nowhere convincing others. Take that as a warning. Good luck!

[satanschariot666]

i am learning!

[jrob56]

Originally Posted by dfwcowboy

I can find reasons to rain on anyone’s parade regardless of which method they use short of a full commercial lift system.

I would challenge anyone to find jack stands that will fit both the pinch welds and the add-on lift points. The problem I’ve found with jack stands is they don’t fit either. I tried two different sets and wound up returning them. Granted I haven’t tried them all, but after two that failed to properly engage the pinch welds I didn’t have much enthusiasm about running all over town looking for ones that would. Even then I wouldn’t have anything that would fit the lift-points.

Good scissors jacks aren’t junk. One advantage is they have no hydraulic seals which can burst, so provided they are stable they are quite safe. One problem some of them have is they are inherently unstable if they have no limit to how high they go. So if extended too far they are unstable. Another problem is they don’t work well on surfaces that aren’t level, which is a problem with most jacks.

I thought about modifying the saddle to fit the lift points, but after giving it a try I decided against it. There’s really no easy way they are going to slide off. The lift points aren’t flat and angle down in the middle. To slide forward or aft they would have to slide several inches which isn’t likely unless you fail to chock the car (which is a recipe for disaster regardless of method). The angle of the lift point is going to resist sliding side to side and the jacks are more stable in that direction.

Id bet a good amount I could shove that car right off the stand. Encourage you to reconsider, had a local lose his life when his cobra fell on him. Sad story thats so easily avoided...

If not a solid wide stand I wouldnt trust my life to it, usually leave jack on somewhere as well for good measure.

[Rock-It Man]

A scissor jack is not a jack stand.

It's kinda the opposite, in terms of safety.

[FH212]

[KSA464]

I hope you are not going under this car when in this condition? This, at best, is only good for changing a tire or MAYBE doing a brake job a wheel at a time, but DO NOT go under this car! A bottle jack, once positioned, is a 100% better than a scissor in this application. These are for temporary use only to change a tire on the side of the road, not to be used in a garage.

[MarkC]

I had a car fall off a scissor lift years ago while changing a tire. It was on a completely flat cement pad. That won't ever happen to me again!

I ordered THESE to use with my jack stands. Weather permitting I'll be using them for the first time this weekend.

[enzia35]

You could have bought a new set of jack stands for what you spent already.

[ac-427]

I don't like lifting my car. In fact, I have nightmares about it lying flat on the garage floor with the wheels off and no way for me to raise it. Soooo.....I'm sharing the most conservative approach I could come up with short of buying ramps that slide too easily or a drive on lift that's too expensive for my budget.

1. Equipment: (4) Torin 6000 lb aluminum jack stands purchased at Pep Boys, (2) 4000 lb jacks, and ZL-1 Addons Permanent Lift Pads for Gen 6 convertibles.

2. Equipment Locations: I started with the front and used the Cross Brace attachment bolts shown in the photographs as the points to locate the floor jack saddles. For the front, I used the outer bolt (circled in red) and for the rear I used the inner bolt (circled in yellow). The Torin jack stands have a saddle that fits the ZL-1 Lift Pads perfectly and the base on them is small enough that interference between the floor jack and stand is eliminated. In my method, a wider based jack stand would not have worked due to interference problems.

3. Jacking Procedure: Since I wanted to avoid twisting the body, I centered the jacks on the cross brace bolt (circled in red) in the front and gradually raised the car by going from side to side in small increments until I got to the height I wanted. After making sure the front was secure, I used the inner cross brace bolt (circled in yellow) to raise the rear using the same side to side method.

Conclusion, I was getting the car ready for the Dallas Autorama so thoroughly cleaning wheels, wheel wells and the bottom of the car was a necessity. Using my method, I heard no creaks in the body, or other evidence of twisting or misalignment. Also, the stands are extremely secure, take up the smallest amount of room possible, and don't scratch the floor. Yep, my method ain't cheap but it costs a lot less than the damage accruing from my beloved Camaro falling off a jack.
Attached Images

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2018 Camaro 2SS Redline Convertible
2017 Colorado Redline
2018 Harley Davidson Fatboy 114
Last edited by ac-427; 02-11-2018 at 06:15 AM.

[Vtor_ZL1]

As many has alluded, that's one slip, slide, crush away from ending your life.


OK to use w/o jack pads!

[Norm Peterson]

I'd spike a few 2x10's or maybe 4x4's together before I'd ever use a scissors jack as a jackstand. Even the really cheap red jackstands I've had for 40+ years and sometimes still use are more stable than a scissors jack as long as I don't use the highest height (mid-height shown below). I've got better stands for when I need more height.


FWIW, I also use more than one jack (and lift fairly evenly in two to four stages) when I need to raise either one end or one side of any of my cars up.




Norm