[Daniel20162ss]

Heres my setup and video of a dyno run. Contact Jim Gray with Quick Rev Performance Kettering Ohio. Hes dealt with procharger/ati for approx 20 years. I absolutly couldnt beat the price he gave me on the kit. He told me to get my best price and everything included and he would beat it, does the install if you choose, and is a mastermind when it comes to tuning.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=TS79M7ZNqDU

D1sc head unit with regular gears
Stage 2 intercooler with race valve
I believe my pulley is a 4.5”(not positive but I can check)
Kooks 1-7/8 headers with offroads to factory npp
Stock lt1 fuel/snow performance meth/water kit(cooling only, not tuned on meth)
Car put down 537rw/518tq on his dyno dynamics heartbreaker dyno. Dyno is know for 15-18% lower numbers than mustang/dynojet dynos. Cars also going in for a tune touch up this upcoming tuesday because its tuned a little rich at 11.7-11.8 WOT, not much timing at all, and 0* can timing. Should gain some ponies by leaning it out .5 or so and adding a little timing, car is at its limit on fuel. Like/subscribe/share to his page also, hes done some badass builds and just now really getting his youtube up and going so be watching for some high hp builds!

[oldman]

Originally Posted by grampa_ss

P-1X - Satin - 10+HP more than P1SC at same boost
Helical cut - I also hope it doesn't sound like marbles
std bypass -
Balancer - didn't know about this option. maybe if shop says it's worth it.
Stage 2 Intercooler - 10+HP more than std at same boost. Plus it's better

I'm close:
PS1, cause it was used low miles second hand and I knew later I'd go for something BIG.
straight gears, I like the sound
std bypass, here I really like the race, but at some point ya know that blahaaaa, gets old on the shifts (My car is an M6). Plus you can remove the baffle from the std bypass
Stage 2 Intercooler, in case I go big (see above). Plus I live in the 7th ring of Hell know as Texas in the summer
Balancer - is that an option? If so I would have got it.
stock 4.0 or is it 4.1 pulley on the head unit


Now supporting mods:
Pray ported heads
Pray stg 1 blow cam
long tubes
Pray tune

Have not put in: Lt4 HP pump, LT4 injectors, and LT4 lp side, I do have an e85 sensor and if Air / Fuel looks good I may try E30 then E50.

The future, I will not got to smaller supercharger pulley, I'll just buy a new head unit maybe all the way up to a F1. But this will be after a full drivetrain upgrade.

[oldman]

Originally Posted by WhiteNight

Does the race valve and larger intercooler require one of the auxiliary radiators to be removed?

Actually the race valve is smaller and bolts right to the stage 2 intercooler. Neither intercooler HP or stage 2 requires the removal of the driver's side radiator, the radiator is repositioned. I however have taken my driver's side out completely and I'm fabricating a duct to supply cool air to the filter and separate the drivers side header from the filter. I'm not racing the car in AutoX or road race so I figure I'm fine. If there are any issues, I'd spring from a passenger side Mishmoto, a larger all aluminum replacement for the primary radiator and mostly a heck of huge oil to air cooler and put it in place of the second horizontal trans cooler.

Why? I really don't like the idea of a oil to water cooler (factory), to me it just as more heat the car's cooling system. The Mishmoto idea of a huge external oil to air cooler is correct; however the intercooler sits in the same position as the Mismoto unit. My car is an M6 so it has both the horizontal trans cooler and the oil to water cooler built into the radiator, this is WAY overkill for a manual. As most manuals forever had no coolers at all.

[oldman]

Originally Posted by Inkedmongo

There's another thread in the forced induction section showing a P1X on a 100% stock engine putting down about max power for stock LT1 fuel system. If you don't plan on doing any mods at all and for sure on that then a P series would be your best option.

true dat